Headlight restoration 50/50.

Barry Theal said:
Hey Great thread here! Those are some pretty amazing results for wiping it on. DId the urethane lay as level as the pics look? Also I didn't use Automotive clear in my thread. I used a clear designed for polycarbonite lense's There is a difference. A big Difference. I'm real curious t see how the stuff holds up. Wow that would be fantastic to see it does. This seems like an outstanding method. Most urethane based products won't hold up to direct sunlight now will they hold up from heat thatis generated from the light itself. The product I've been using with outstanding results is below.

Private Label Products Automotive Products Cumberland Products

The biggest issue I would see here is it not withstanding uv rays.. Man if it holds up. Im on it. Great post. How hard is the actual material when cured. Clear coats won't hold up against rock chips and other elements. Thanks for posting this.
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Thank you Barry. The urethane claims to contain UV protection so i really dont know how long this method will last. And yes Barry, this thing does go on smooth as it looks. Even i was so surprised at how smooth it went on. Im going to do some more testing to see how it looks wiping it on 2000g and 1500g. I will keep updating to see how long this last. Im sure it will last a long time. I mean, hotrod posted up to two years on his thread! But he did buff out the headlight first AND THEN applied the urethane. Since i applied it over a sanded finish i believe this adhered better and i can asure you it will last around 2 years or more. Ill keep you guys updated.
 
So if this is on a spare headlight, how do you plan to properly test this? It will not be exposed to road conditions such as highway speeds, debris, road salt (if in your area), etc. At most you can only set the light outside. Do you plan to do this to your own vehicle or something?
 
rwright said:
So if this is on a spare headlight, how do you plan to properly test this? It will not be exposed to road conditions such as highway speeds, debris, road salt (if in your area), etc. At most you can only set the light outside. Do you plan to do this to your own vehicle or something?
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Ive already done this on 4 cars. So i will be keeping an eye on those. This spare one is the one i carry around and show potential customers what the before and after will look like.
 
93fox said:
Ive already done this on 4 cars. So i will be keeping an eye on those. This spare one is the one i carry around and show potential customers what the before and after will look like.
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Ok, I must have missed it. Best of luck you and if this works sounds like you may corner the resto market in your area, especially if you offer a "warranty" for the work.
 
rwright said:
So if this is on a spare headlight, how do you plan to properly test this? It will not be exposed to road conditions such as highway speeds, debris, road salt (if in your area), etc. At most you can only set the light outside. Do you plan to do this to your own vehicle or something?
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Are you just talking about 93Foxs method/product used or his technique? Because the products have been used and the guy that started this all

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...eadlight-restoration-new-uv-sealant-idea.html

posted about year and half later from the OP of 1st car he did and it still held up. If you did this as a business side of things you could probably garantee 1-2 years for 50bucks (pair of headlights) for your avg customer with EX a Civic, Accord, Mustang etc etc.
 
Rei86 said:
Are you just talking about 93Foxs method/product used or his technique? Because the products have been used and the guy that started this all

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...eadlight-restoration-new-uv-sealant-idea.html

posted about year and half later from the OP of 1st car he did and it still held up. If you did this as a business side of things you could probably garantee 1-2 years for 50bucks (pair of headlights) for your avg customer with EX a Civic, Accord, Mustang etc etc.
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I was speaking to the OP about this specific thread. Thanks for assuming I'm too stupid to tell the difference :props:
 
rwright said:
Ok, I must have missed it. Best of luck you and if this works sounds like you may corner the resto market in your area, especially if you offer a "warranty" for the work.
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I went to a small used dealer ship and they said they had a guy who just threw compound and went to town. I told them about my method and they didnt seem that interested. After a talked to them a little more they gave a me a car to do. Their jaws dropped onced i was finished and said they would call me from now on! :)
 
rwright said:
I was speaking to the OP about this specific thread. Thanks for assuming I'm too stupid to tell the difference :props:
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Sorry I didn't mean to offend; I'm just really looped out ATM (long day at work)
 
93fox said:
I went to a small used dealer ship and they said they had a guy who just threw compound and went to town. I told them about my method and they didnt seem that interested. After a talked to them a little more they gave a me a car to do. Their jaws dropped onced i was finished and said they would call me from now on! :)
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That's the key, hard proof of your work! Seriously, I hope this works for you.
 
93fox said:
I went to a small used dealer ship and they said they had a guy who just threw compound and went to town. I told them about my method and they didnt seem that interested. After a talked to them a little more they gave a me a car to do. Their jaws dropped onced i was finished and said they would call me from now on! :)
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How long does it take you to do a headlight?

Also when you did this did you do it by hand or by a drill?
 
Oscar, the light looks fantastic. What did you use to wipe on the 50/50 mix with? An old Tshirt or something? I imagine it's ruined after using it. Your logic seems great and the results speak for themselves. Great idea to carry around the example too!
 
richy said:
Oscar, the light looks fantastic. What did you use to wipe on the 50/50 mix with? An old Tshirt or something? I imagine it's ruined after using it. Your logic seems great and the results speak for themselves. Great idea to carry around the example too!
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Thanks Richy! I used a Scotts blue shop towel. I fold it really really small so its really thick, then soak the side im going to wipe it with. They turn out great. So i just throw it away once im done.
 
Could the brand and/or type of disc/paper cause more or less swirls? Example; 3m brand...silicone carbide
compared to Meguiar's brand....aluminum oxide.

I read somewhere that different brands and types can break down differently. I am wondering if that breakdown process could be more or less likely to cause swirls?
I only do headlights, recently bought the Griot's 3" orbital and cheaper discs with dry sanding, and it seems like I am getting more swirls. Just trying to figure out how to correct that is all. I'm worried that the higher speeds of the Griots(3,500-6,800opm) could be causing this. Another person told me maybe I wasn't cleaning the discs/surface often enough. Any thoughts?
 
Part-timer said:
Could the brand and/or type of disc/paper cause more or less swirls? Example; 3m brand...silicone carbide
compared to Meguiar's brand....aluminum oxide.

I read somewhere that different brands and types can break down differently. I am wondering if that breakdown process could be more or less likely to cause swirls?
I only do headlights, recently bought the Griot's 3" orbital and cheaper discs with dry sanding, and it seems like I am getting more swirls. Just trying to figure out how to correct that is all. I'm worried that the higher speeds of the Griots(3,500-6,800opm) could be causing this. Another person told me maybe I wasn't cleaning the discs/surface often enough. Any thoughts?
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I think that other person is right...hahaha!
 
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