Megs MF System

[Detailin Novice]

the acura paint is really soft... i dont even take it to the hand car wash (something i used to think was safe) and i almost cried when the tinter gave me a "free" wash after the tint job and i saw all the swirls i got in the paint after it.. i tried m105/205 about a month ago..it helped alot for me.. i still needed to go over it with po85rd..but got too lazy.. let me kno if u figure out a combo that works

p.s. you got any mods?

 

[WRAPT C5Z06]

I might get flamed for this but I always crank my PCXP up (level 5 and 6 at times) if I notice it struggling on a panel. I can only imagine how hard the 6" is to move.

Flamed? Actually, the exact opposite! I think you MUST turn the PCXP to at LEAST speed 5 when using the MF cutting pads.

 

[john b]

you might want to do a couple of test spots and look at your arm speed and pressure.maybe try 4 passes with pressure and 3 quicker passes and try cranking the pc up to 5.5,the only reason i say that is the 6 inch pads were designed for the flex and air operated das.so your goin to have to play with it a bit as far as the 300 compound goes.keep playin with it ,its a very versatile system-dont give up yet its your pcs best friend

 

[alko]

I recently used the 5" Megs MF system on a Black 2004 Civic. I was using Griots 6" DA with the compound and wax supplied in the Megs Kit.

I had never used any kind of polisher on a car before so I was expecting to have some problems. Ended up having very few problems. I did half of the trunk to leave as an example when the owner got back and moved to the roof. On the roof I noticed I was getting ?holograms? from the pad... (in the shape and flow direction of the pad). When I went back and checked the trunk, I also had some marking in the paint there.

The process I ended up using was 2 passes with reasonable pressure on speed 4.5ish and then while still using the mf cutting pad I would kick the speed down to 2.5ish and do 2 more passes. To keep the pad spinning on 2.5 I had to use a lot less pressure which seem to cure all of my problems. Considering the car is a daily driver that has over 100,000 miles and has been beat well in parking lots the black metallic paint turned out beautiful. There was one area (trunk lid) with heavy scratches (can feel them) that I wasn't able to correct. Do to the fact they are deep enough to feel, I am hesitant to try and remove them and from what I could tell the Megs MF kit isn't aggressive enough to try on something that deep.

Regarding the wiping issues, I experience no trouble is this area. I was actually impressed how well it wiped off. The air temp in my garage ranged from probably 80 degree when I started to about 60 by the time I had finished. I did also notice the dusting. Not having any machine experience with other products I couldn't say how little the dusting was but it did not seem bad.

2.5? Wow!!! I’m surprised it even spun. I think I will take the suggestion of others and kick up the speed. I want to test it out on harder paint to see if I get better results. You should post pics of your work on this…or have you already done so?

the acura paint is really soft... i dont even take it to the hand car wash (something i used to think was safe) and i almost cried when the tinter gave me a "free" wash after the tint job and i saw all the swirls i got in the paint after it.. i tried m105/205 about a month ago..it helped alot for me.. i still needed to go over it with po85rd..but got too lazy.. let me kno if u figure out a combo that works

p.s. you got any mods?

I refuse to go to anyone or place to get my car washed. When I first got my car back in December of last year, I took it to the swirl-o-matics a few times. I knew I was harming my paint, but I also knew I was going to do a major detail job on the car. Now that I’m more educated from being on AGO and AG, I will be in the garage in the winter time doing ONR washes.
The only thing I got done to the car is tinted the windows. I’m not into mods anymore. I used to be back in the day, as I was trying to mod my 96 Ford Probe…POS but that was my first car and first love. I’d hand wax the chit out of that car. LOL!
What do you have?

Flamed? Actually, the exact opposite! I think you MUST turn the PCXP to at LEAST speed 5 when using the MF cutting pads.

Alright now…I’m gonna take your word for this…lol…I’ll bump the speed up, but I think I’m going to get the 5” pads to do so. I’m not comfortable with the feel of the 6” pads…or should I say I don’t like the maneuverability with them. I also don’t like the strong vibration when using it with my PC.

you might want to do a couple of test spots and look at your arm speed and pressure.maybe try 4 passes with pressure and 3 quicker passes and try cranking the pc up to 5.5,the only reason i say that is the 6 inch pads were designed for the flex and air operated das.so your goin to have to play with it a bit as far as the 300 compound goes.keep playin with it ,its a very versatile system-dont give up yet its your pcs best friend

Yeah I’m gonna get the 5” pads. Only reason I got the 6” kit was because it was VIP awhile ago. Looks like I’m going to have some items to trade here soon.

 

[Detailin Novice]

I refuse to go to anyone or place to get my car washed. When I first got my car back in December of last year, I took it to the swirl-o-matics a few times. I knew I was harming my paint, but I also knew I was going to do a major detail job on the car. Now that I’m more educated from being on AGO and AG, I will be in the garage in the winter time doing ONR washes.
The only thing I got done to the car is tinted the windows. I’m not into mods anymore. I used to be back in the day, as I was trying to mod my 96 Ford Probe…POS but that was my first car and first love. I’d hand wax the chit out of that car. LOL!
What do you have?

haha..thats funny cause its after the hand washes i decided i needed to learn more and discovered AG as well. I also let my sister have my car when i went to school for awhile and kneeew it wouldnt come back the same lol. and she didn't dissappoint.
I've actually got the same exact sexy beast. Black 2010 tsx. I put two layers of nattys blue on it by hand last month and its been beautiful ever since. Still could use a really good full detail.. sucks to see it under light..but im too lazy and busy studying now.

 

[alko]

haha..thats funny cause its after the hand washes i decided i needed to learn more and discovered AG as well. I also let my sister have my car when i went to school for awhile and kneeew it wouldnt come back the same lol. and she didn't dissappoint.
I've actually got the same exact sexy beast. Black 2010 tsx. I put two layers of nattys blue on it by hand last month and its been beautiful ever since. Still could use a really good full detail.. sucks to see it under light..but im too lazy and busy studying now.

She looks so good after a good detail. Back in July I performed her first major detail. I used a PC7424XP with some 5.5" Lake Country CCS pads, and the 4" CCS pads for the smaller areas. For the product I used the Sonus SFX2-4. I actually got the PC and Sonus bundle over at autopia. I really liked this product line. I've read alot of reviews where people didn't care for it, but when I did this detail job, it really brought out the blue flakes in the paint that I didn't notice before.

I wanted to try something alittle more aggresive this time, as I have some deeper scratches, but the Meg's MF system didn't work out to well for me. I'm getting ready to give Nick a call to place another order for the Wolfgang Twins.

You got any mods on your car? Aside from tint, I'm considering the OEM remote starter.

 

[row011]

Ahh I want to see someone have good results with the 6" MF Pads... as I am going to attempt to use them...Im only hearing bad things on these pads and I dont think a refund is going to be possible.......

 

[alko]

Ahh I want to see someone have good results with the 6" MF Pads... as I am going to attempt to use them...Im only hearing bad things on these pads and I dont think a refund is going to be possible.......

I am going to give it another shot here soon. I wanna say its user error, but I really don't think the 6" pads are good for the PC7424XP. And honestly, I really like the feel of regular pads.

 

[embolism]

on softer paints, especially black, I think finishing with foam and a nice DAT polish is still the way to go.

when the optimum finishing pads come out I may give them a try but until then, it's Menz and foam every time for my spring detail

 

[alko]

on softer paints, especially black, I think finishing with foam and a nice DAT polish is still the way to go.

when the optimum finishing pads come out I may give them a try but until then, it's Menz and foam every time for my spring detail

I'm thinking the same thing. I got real nervous when I saw the paint starting to cloud up like it did. I want to try the MF system out on harder paints. I think I'll try it out on Pops car.

 

[embolism]

when you think about it, it does make sense.

Thinner pads, more surface area (fibres), and SMAT polish, are all designed to maximize the action of the DA and take more little bites out of the paint from the get go so you cut faster with less passes and get you to where you need to be (level paint) much more efficiently.

Problem is, it's a bit of overkill on soft paint...

 

[alko]

when you think about it, it does make sense.

Thinner pads, more surface area (fibres), and SMAT polish, are all designed to maximize the action of the DA and take more little bites out of the paint from the get go so you cut faster with less passes and get you to where you need to be (level paint) much more efficiently.

Problem is, it's a bit of overkill on soft paint...

I'm definitely going to agree with you on this one. I'm going to order the Wolfgang Duo today. Already have Orange and white LC CCS pads, but I think I'm going to order the gray CCS pads.

 

[embolism]

for DAT polishes, I like 7/8 in LC flats or hydrotechs better.

CCS are thicker and have those pockets that polish gets trapped in so DAT polishes break down at different rates. Not good for finishing down...

I'd get the 6 pack of 7/8 in thick 5.5 in LC flats if I were you. Two orange, 2 white and 2 black

or get some tangerine and crimson hydrotechs from the wolfgang site. With the Oct20 code, you pay $5 for shipping but with the sale on the 3 packs and 20% off, it's like $6 a pad...

 

[alko]

for DAT polishes, I like 7/8 in LC flats or hydrotechs better.

CCS are thicker and have those pockets that polish gets trapped in so DAT polishes break down at different rates. Not good for finishing down...

I will try them out. I've searched the forum and saw that alot of people were using the CCS pads. I will also try the tangerine hydro pad. I have a few of those.

 

[embolism]

I have no love for CCS pads especially on a pc

for a while, all ppl were getting were 6.5 inch CCS in the PC bundle kits. Not a lot of happy campers I'd imagine...

 

[alko]

I liked them...they were easy to use. They did require a longer working time, but I think I like them for the fact that I don't have to necessarily worry about not having enough product. I used them with the SFX line and enjoyed the results. I will do two tests...one for the hyrdo tech pad and one for the ccs pad. I wasn't too crazy when I tried the hydro pad with Poli seal. While it corrected most defects, it still didn't produce the results I wanted with MY car. Thats not to say it won't produce the results my customers will want...ya dig?!

I greatly appreciate your advice Tim. What are you using for paint correction? What combo's work good for you?

 

[Old Tiger]

How in the world do you all use the PCXP with the MF system on speed 4??? Even with light pressure, the pad *barely* rotates, and this is with a 5" MF pad. I couldn't imagine the 6"!! With the PCXP, anything under speed 5 is pretty much worthless!! My G110v2 and Griot's are WAY more powerful on speed 4.

OOps! I meant to type M205. I also have used Optimum Finishing Polish on a foam pad. I have no issues with harder paints using the Megss Finishing Pad and M205.

 

[05xrunner]

it could be the paint..Is it super soft? my Black paint on my mustang does not play well with the MF system. I tried it once with the Finishing pad and finishing wax and I got very light swirls like you do..My paint is to soft and for finishing it out I have to either use Sonax paint cleaner or 85RD on a Crimson Hydrotech pad.

 

[crxman2010]

2.5? Wow!!! I’m surprised it even spun. I think I will take the suggestion of others and kick up the speed. I want to test it out on harder paint to see if I get better results. You should post pics of your work on this…or have you already done so?

The griots 6" has a lot more power than the porter cable version.
I had a 2010 Mayan Bronze TL and now a 2012 Graphite Luster TL. It is too early to tell how the Graphite Luster will hold up but I think the Mayan Bronze was quite abit stronger than our Civics paint. Even though early in its life the dealership would run the mayan bronze through their wash everytime they touched the car, the paint only had light swirls in a couple areas and the color hid it well. (and then the day came when they were told to not wash the car....)

On the other hand the black civic swirls at every chance . The reason I was running 2.5 was less for the speed decrease though it may have helped, but to insure I used a very light pressure on the second set of passes. Any pressure or tilt on the DA would cause the pad to stop at that speed so I really had to watch it carefully to keep it spinning. Otherwise, trying to do a light pass at correction speed I still ended up with marks that were easily visible just from my fluroscent ceiling lights.

I did it about two weeks ago and did take some pictures, I haven't looked at them yet to see how they turned out or posted any, but if I have a couple good ones, I will get them posted later today.

 

[embolism]

I liked them...they were easy to use. They did require a longer working time, but I think I like them for the fact that I don't have to necessarily worry about not having enough product. I used them with the SFX line and enjoyed the results. I will do two tests...one for the hyrdo tech pad and one for the ccs pad. I wasn't too crazy when I tried the hydro pad with Poli seal. While it corrected most defects, it still didn't produce the results I wanted with MY car. Thats not to say it won't produce the results my customers will want...ya dig?!

I greatly appreciate your advice Tim. What are you using for paint correction? What combo's work good for you?

I've tried Optimum compound II, M105, and Poliseal to varying degrees on other cars, all with the original 6 LC flats I started with and they are holding up great.

All I needed for my car was power finish on orange followed by super finish on black. Come spring, I'll hit it with superfinish on white or black to get rid of any marks I currently have (got some from taking shortcuts/experimenting with difft wash media and rinseless etc) and those I get over the winter.

I may also try CG blacklight on the GG6 come spring. I used it quite a bit this summer by hand but it's supposed to have some light cut by machine.