Megs MF System

[alko]

it could be the paint..Is it super soft? my Black paint on my mustang does not play well with the MF system. I tried it once with the Finishing pad and finishing wax and I got very light swirls like you do..My paint is to soft and for finishing it out I have to either use Sonax paint cleaner or 85RD on a Crimson Hydrotech pad.

Its extremely soft…I was disappointed in the system but that’s not to say its not going to work on hard paints. I will replace the 6” pads for 5” pads and try it again. Nick recommended the 85rd for finishing it out, but I went ahead and ordered the WG Twins.

I've tried Optimum compound II, M105, and Poliseal to varying degrees on other cars, all with the original 6 LC flats I started with and they are holding up great.

All I needed for my car was power finish on orange followed by super finish on black. Come spring, I'll hit it with superfinish on white or black to get rid of any marks I currently have (got some from taking shortcuts/experimenting with difft wash media and rinseless etc) and those I get over the winter.

I may also try CG blacklight on the GG6 come spring. I used it quite a bit this summer by hand but it's supposed to have some light cut by machine.

What cars did you have success with the Poli-seal on? I didn’t have much success with it on Chrysler paints. On my Acura, I wasn’t completely thrilled at the results, however it did manage to remove most of the defects.

 

[embolism]

I used it on a black Rav 4 as a one step with orange pads. Got about 80% correction on a dd that hadn't seen wax in about 4 years (my buddy has disc problems and walks with a cane so he can't do it -- when I saw him at the mall and told him about my new hobby he was thrilled. I ended up doing his wife's Fit a few weeks later).

Only had the car for 4 hours and wanted to do something better than a paint cleaner since it was black...

Never used it but I think D151 would work better on harder clears...

 

[alko]

I used it on a black Rav 4 as a one step with orange pads. Got about 80% correction on a dd that hadn't seen wax in about 4 years (my buddy has disc problems and walks with a cane so he can't do it -- when I saw him at the mall and told him about my new hobby he was thrilled. I ended up doing his wife's Fit a few weeks later).

Only had the car for 4 hours and wanted to do something better than a paint cleaner since it was black...

Never used it but I think D151 would work better on harder clears...

Oh ok cool. One of these days, when my business starts to grow, I'll pick up some M105/205. Seems like these are the go-to products for paint correction with alot of folks.

 

[Griffee]

How many passes?

Two with pressure, two with weight of machine, two with pressure, two with weight of machine. I just alternated for a total of eight passes.

Silver ZO6, and Charcoal/Metallic Nissan are all I've tackled with it so far.

I had excellent results with both. Plenty of power in the XP. IMO

 

[budinsc]

try dropping down to a 4" pad and i think your problem will go away. bobby g taught me this and it works!

budinsc

 

[dad07]

Oh ok cool. One of these days, when my business starts to grow, I'll pick up some M105/205. Seems like these are the go-to products for paint correction with alot of folks.

Alex you haven't tried 105/205 Yet?

 

[alko]

Two with pressure, two with weight of machine, two with pressure, two with weight of machine. I just alternated for a total of eight passes.

Silver ZO6, and Charcoal/Metallic Nissan are all I've tackled with it so far.

I had excellent results with both. Plenty of power in the XP. IMO

Oh ok...thats an interesting cycle. I'll keep it in mind when I try it out again. Thanks for the feedback.

try dropping down to a 4" pad and i think your problem will go away. bobby g taught me this and it works!
budinsc

I love the 4" CCS pads. I don't think they have 4" MF discs, do they?!

Alex you haven't tried 105/205 Yet?

No sir I have not yet. Don't yell at me too bad lol!

 

[dad07]

Alex Pm your mailing info your about to try 105/205!

Not yelling at all my friend! rops:

 

[alko]

Oh snap!!! Are you serious?!

 

[dad07]

Oh snap!!! Are you serious?!

VERY! Yes i'll hook you up with a sample of each!

 

[alko]

Sent! I really appreciate you Tim...this is awesome.

 

[storm100]

Alex Pm your mailing info your about to try 105/205!

Not yelling at all my friend! rops:

There are a lot of stand up, genuine guys on here. You buddy are definitely one of them. Very kind of you. :dblthumb2:

 

[Rav777]

Alex Pm your mailing info your about to try 105/205!

Not yelling at all my friend! rops:

This is why I love this forum! :xyxthumbs: It has so many awesome people in it!

And Alex welcome to the 105/205 darkside!

 

[dad07]

There are a lot of stand up, genuine guys on here. You buddy are definitely one of them. Very kind of you. :dblthumb2:

This is why I love this forum! :xyxthumbs: It has so many awesome people in it!

And Alex welcome to the 105/205 darkside!

Thanks for the kind words Guys....just trying to help a brother out!

Alex has become a great help to this forum for asking questions that might not get asked.

Also I look forward to his Happy Friday Thread !

I try to help when I can.

 

[row011]

Hey

If you want to just try out some polishing, i.e Ive got the Megs MF pads and 105/205 Im thinking of giving it a go on the cars front(hood) but I dont want to throw away the pads after the use.

So after every use do I need to wash them or can I just clean them off with the air-compressor and store them in a air tight ziplock bag?

thanks appreciate your comments

 

[dad07]

Hey

If you want to just try out some polishing, i.e Ive got the Megs MF pads and 105/205 Im thinking of giving it a go on the cars front(hood) but I dont want to throw away the pads after the use.

So after every use do I need to wash them or can I just clean them off with the air-compressor and store them in a air tight ziplock bag?

thanks appreciate your comments

You should wash the pads out and let dry before your next use.

 

[alko]

There are a lot of stand up, genuine guys on here. You buddy are definitely one of them. Very kind of you.

I definitely agree with you. There are so many people on this forum that have helped me to get to where I’m at now. I’m no big time, and no professional at detailing, but the information alone from these guys have helped me tremendously. It’s real nice to see people helping each other out…I wish there were more folks out here like that.

This is why I love this forum! It has so many awesome people in it!

And Alex welcome to the 105/205 darkside!

Indeed Ro…when I was a lurker, I was amazed at how generous and kind people were on this site. I will try the M105/205 out on my Dad’s 300C.

Thanks for the kind words Guys....just trying to help a brother out!

Alex has become a great help to this forum for asking questions that might not get asked.

Also I look forward to his Happy Friday Thread !

I try to help when I can.

Thanks again Tim…this is very generous of you. I wish you worked in our payroll department here at work ;-) I appreciate your kind words as well.

Hey

If you want to just try out some polishing, i.e Ive got the Megs MF pads and 105/205 Im thinking of giving it a go on the cars front(hood) but I dont want to throw away the pads after the use.

So after every use do I need to wash them or can I just clean them off with the air-compressor and store them in a air tight ziplock bag?

thanks appreciate your comments

You shouldn’t have to throw the pads out. I HIGHLY recommend you pick up some DP Pad Rejuvenator. This worked GREAT with cleaning the MF pads after I was done DP Polishing Pad Rejuvenator was created to provide detailers with a fast and effective way to clean pads without soapy residue or foamy degreasers. I soaked the pads for about an hour or so and then took a carpet upholstery brush and gently scrubbed each pad. I also sprayed some XMT Polishing Pad Cleaner by Pinnacle For your dual action or rotary polisher. a few times to test its ability. It seemed to work well, but I need to replace the spray nozzle as its not working properly. But where the product landed on the pad, you can clearly see it worked. I let the pads air dry and then stored them in my rubbermaid bin. Alot of people store their pads in ziplock bags.

And yes…definitely keep the pads clean after each panel...you will see how they gum up but the air compressor works great with cleaning the pads. I recommend doing this AWAY from your vehicle and anything else in the vicinity.

 

[RaskyR1]

Hey Alex,


I didn't go through this whole thread to read everyone's posts, but I would like to give you my $.02 anyway.

• The 5" pads are better for all around correction and the better choice when working on average sized cars. The 6" are still very capable of good correction and they often finish down better on finicky paints too. However, I tend to reserve them for larger vehicles with flat open panels. On the PCXP you will need speed 5 with the 5" pads and maybe even 5.5 on the 6" pads.
• Some haze after the D300/MF cutting is normal with soft paints, but it should easily be cleared up with most any finishing polish. IMO the MF pads are too aggressive for finishing of soft paints, and I will almost always use foam to finish with unless it's a quick job with D300/D301. Most of the cutting action in the finishing step of the MF system comes from the pad itself, not the D301.
• I've found when working on some paints that I actually get better finishing from the D300 when I keep the sections size smaller, maintain moderate to heavy pressure throughout the entire work cycle(4-6 passes), and use very slow arm movement (1 inch per sec). Do not reduce pressure for the last few passes.
• D300 should be one of the easiest compounds you'll ever use and remove. If it's hard to remove it's usually because of too much product or it was under worked. There has been a few paints where I noticed some difficulties removing the product, but it was with all polishes, not just D300...likely attributed to climate or the paint itself.
• I clean my pad after each section with air.
• I own an Acura myself with soft and very finicky paint. D300 definitely leaves a haze behind on this paint but it clears right up with M205. I have also found that my paint finishes better with M205 when I use LC's Hydro tech crimson pads. Keep in mind that good results using M205 on these paints really comes down to proper technique. Check out Todd Helme's thread here for more info on that.
• While I love using M205 as much as possible, I also find that polishes that utilize diminishing abrasives tend to be easier to finish with on most touchy paints. 106fa/foam LC has been one of my most used follow up polishes to D300/MF as has been producing exceptional results. rops:

Hope this helps,
Rasky

 

[alko]

Hey Alex,


I didn't go through this whole thread to read everyone's posts, but I would like to give you my $.02 anyway.

• The 5" pads are better for all around correction and the better choice when working on average sized cars. The 6" are still very capable of good correction and they often finish down better on finicky paints too. However, I tend to reserve them for larger vehicles with flat open panels. On the PCXP you will need speed 5 with the 5" pads and maybe even 5.5 on the 6" pads.
• Some haze after the D300/MF cutting is normal with soft paints, but it should easily be cleared up with most any finishing polish. IMO the MF pads are too aggressive for finishing of soft paints, and I will almost always use foam to finish with unless it's a quick job with D300/D301. Most of the cutting action in the finishing step of the MF system comes from the pad itself, not the D301.
• I've found when working on some paints that I actually get better finishing from the D300 when I keep the sections size smaller, maintain moderate to heavy pressure throughout the entire work cycle(4-6 passes), and use very slow arm movement (1 inch per sec). Do not reduce pressure for the last few passes.
• D300 should be one of the easiest compounds you'll ever use and remove. If it's hard to remove it's usually because of too much product or it was under worked. There has been a few paints where I noticed some difficulties removing the product, but it was with all polishes, not just D300...likely attributed to climate or the paint itself.
• I clean my pad after each section with air.
• I own an Acura myself with soft and very finicky paint. D300 definitely leaves a haze behind on this paint but it clears right up with M205. I have also found that my paint finishes better with M205 when I use LC's Hydro tech crimson pads. Keep in mind that good results using M205 on these paints really comes down to proper technique. Check out Todd Helme's thread here for more info on that.
• While I love using M205 as much as possible, I also find that polishes that utilize diminishing abrasives tend to be easier to finish with on most touchy paints. 106fa/foam LC has been one of my most used follow up polishes to D300/MF as has been producing exceptional results. rops:

Hope this helps,
Rasky

WOW!!! Thank you very much for this response! This definitely helped alot. I really appreciate. I won't give up so easily on the MF system. I do want 5" pads though. I will remember your info for when I get Tim's samples of 105/205. I appreciate you.

 

[crxman2010]

Here are pictures I have from using the MF system on a Black Civic.

After the correction (sun had gone down behind the house but I tried..)

The third image in both sets is of the small area.

You will see in some areas it is by no means perfect, the front half of the hood is beyond help and the roof has chips in the clear coat as well. But I think I need more than some fuzzy pads for that.
The shots done outside have the Megs MF wax on it as well as two coats of collinite 845. The close up done in side is just after wiping off the compound.

Side note: This is the 3rd vehicle I have used Optimum Opti-Bond on the tires, and love the looks.