What's the issue here?

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aerogt01

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What's the issue here?

To preface: I have worked with power tools my entire life. It is not outside a regular workday for me to pick up a drill, die grinder, or even a 2hp air-powered angle grinder and go to town on steel, aluminum, or composite parts. Suffice it to say, I am very comfortable working with any power tool and quickly learn whatever I pick up, including the DA.

Enter the PC 7424.

<rant>
This thing has to be the most anemic, underpowered tool I have ever used, and feels like a joke in my hands.

I have polished out several cars with it, and the more I use it, the more I hate it. Right now I am working on my own vehicle (2001 Grand Prix) and using M105 on a cutting pad. It finishes LSP ready, but it is a bear to even get defects out! I am not done yet, and am loathe to get back to it. I have had the polisher on speed 6 with and much pressure as I can muster, and it still does not remove RIDS and/or deep (not through the clear) scuffs with multiple passes.

The difference between speed 5 and 6 is ridiculous. Speed 6 feels like the thing is going to jiggle apart, and quickly wears my Edge pads (I only have one of each, mind you), but it is difficult to bog down the machine. Speed 5 is easily overpowered and the pad made to stop spinning.

Not to mention after a long day of polishing my hands themselves are almost shaken apart. So I spend hours and hours polishing, with what to show for it? Barely anything compared to some of the results I see here.

I'm not exactly sure what everyone one here is doing to achieve decent correction with their DA's (in under a week per vehicle), but I can assure you, my next purchase with either be a rotary or a 3401.

Maybe the problem is a 1st gen PC on 6" Edge pads. Be that as it may, I am done with the "jiggling."
</rant>

Thanks for listening! I tried to voice my frustrations with my wife and well. . . yeah. Many of you know how that would go.
 
Hi Kevin,

Tell us what you really think!


:laughing: Just kidding... we're glad you feel comfortable sharing...


Just a couple of comments...

First, for many people that have worked their entire life by hand, moving up to machine polishing with a PC style polisher makes a HUGE difference in the quality of results as compared to working by hand. Also in speed, I'm pretty good at rubbing out swirls and scratches by hand but I would reach for a PC first given the choice versus working by hand.


Second... and I don't know if this applies to you but I know it applies to many and that this...

When a person first starts out a tool like the PC is the next best thing to sliced bread because previously all you knew was working by hand... then as time goes by and you master the tool... you start to feel it's doesn't offer the power you need and want.

It did in the beginning but later it doesn't. What changed? The tool? Or you?

Could be you're ready to test the waters and perhaps a Flex 3401 or a rotary buffer will be the next challenge?


Just some thoughts on the subject...


:)
 
I believe Mike is right. Mostly because he just described my feelings. I cannot wait to buy a Flex. And that has nothing to do with the PC being bad. It gave me a lot of joy, and it did its job, albeit sloooooowly, but it did it none the less.
 
I completely agree it is better than working by hand. To be honest, if I did not have the PC I would not have even attempted the whole car by hand.

To answer your question, I believe I changed faster than the tool could keep up. It almost seems as if by the time I learned to use it, it wasn't enough. I'm not sure how much difference the extra power from the GG or 7424XP would make. But to be honest, I don't have the cash to try something out and sell it at a personal hit if I don't like it.

Anyway, just something I needed to get off my mind. Thanks for the thoughts, Mike!
 
Kind of like when you graduated from bicycle to car, the car was great at first but now you're ready for a Corvette :D. So even with the 1st gen PC, what kind of car are you working on and how aggressive is your cutting pad? Maybe a change here could fill the void until you pick up a more powerful machine?
 
aerogt01 said:
To preface: I have worked with power tools my entire life. It is not outside a regular workday for me to pick up a drill, die grinder, or even a 2hp air-powered angle grinder and go to town on steel, aluminum, or composite parts. Suffice it to say, I am very comfortable working with any power tool and quickly learn whatever I pick up, including the DA.

Enter the PC 7424.

<rant>
This thing has to be the most anemic, underpowered tool I have ever used, and feels like a joke in my hands.

I have polished out several cars with it, and the more I use it, the more I hate it. Right now I am working on my own vehicle (2001 Grand Prix) and using M105 on a cutting pad. It finishes LSP ready, but it is a bear to even get defects out! I am not done yet, and am loathe to get back to it. I have had the polisher on speed 6 with and much pressure as I can muster, and it still does not remove RIDS and/or deep (not through the clear) scuffs with multiple passes.

The difference between speed 5 and 6 is ridiculous. Speed 6 feels like the thing is going to jiggle apart, and quickly wears my Edge pads (I only have one of each, mind you), but it is difficult to bog down the machine. Speed 5 is easily overpowered and the pad made to stop spinning.

Not to mention after a long day of polishing my hands themselves are almost shaken apart. So I spend hours and hours polishing, with what to show for it? Barely anything compared to some of the results I see here.

I'm not exactly sure what everyone one here is doing to achieve decent correction with their DA's (in under a week per vehicle), but I can assure you, my next purchase with either be a rotary or a 3401.

Maybe the problem is a 1st gen PC on 6" Edge pads. Be that as it may, I am done with the "jiggling."
</rant>

Thanks for listening! I tried to voice my frustrations with my wife and well. . . yeah. Many of you know how that would go.
Click to expand...

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Hi Kevin,

Tell us what you really think!


:laughing: Just kidding... we're glad you feel comfortable sharing...


Just a couple of comments...

First, for many people that have worked their entire life by hand, moving up to machine polishing with a PC style polisher makes a HUGE difference in the quality of results as compared to working by hand. Also in speed, I'm pretty good at rubbing out swirls and scratches by hand but I would reach for a PC first given the choice versus working by hand.


Second... and I don't know if this applies to you but I know it applies to many and that this...

When a person first starts out a tool like the PC is the next best thing to sliced bread because previously all you knew was working by hand... then as time goes by and you master the tool... you start to feel it's doesn't offer the power you need and want.

It did in the beginning but later it doesn't. What changed? The tool? Or you?

Could be you're ready to test the waters and perhaps a Flex 3401 or a rotary buffer will be the next challenge?


Just some thoughts on the subject...


:)
Click to expand...


I agreed with Mike Phillips on this but have you try on smaller pads like the Lake Country hydro Tech Pads 5.5 X 7/8 or the Meguiar's DA MF System? These have help in cutting the time down on polishing / compounding the paint and save one's hand from that " jiggling " effort you have mention.
 
rwright said:
what kind of car are you working on and how aggressive is your cutting pad? Maybe a change here could fill the void until you pick up a more powerful machine?
Click to expand...

M105 on a Green Edge pad.

I would have to agree, a cyan or yellow may produce better results, just waiting on the $$. (Will be for a while.)
 
Step up to the Flex if you have the money and think the PC is not powerful enough for what you need it for. Personally I think and know the PC can do some big correction. Just takes more time than other polishers.
 
You're about to, a small sample package will be going out shortly. Just hang in there and don't give up just yet :).
 
Putting all the pressure you can muster may not be a good decision when you have a machine with a free floating spindle assembly. this could hinder the pad from spinning and being effective to some degree. Try using less pressure and slow arm movements.Let the machine work hard ...just a thought...
 
erock said:
Putting all the pressure you can muster may not be a good decision when you have a machine with a free floating spindle assembly. this could hinder the pad from spinning and being effective to some degree. Try using less pressure and slow arm movements.Let the machine work hard ...just a thought...
Click to expand...

I kept a careful eye on pad spinning. It did not slow down significantly, but speed 6 ruins my pads.
 
I had the very same feelings towards the PC. I've used my Makita for years, and it just felt like a step down. ALTHOUGH, I have found many uses for the PC. I feel when it comes to correction though...that the rotary cuts faster, and makes quick work of defects. Where as the PC I feel like I have to repeat steps to get results.

I also agree with the speed difference between 5 and 6. It's a pretty dramatic change. And on 6, it really does feel like it wants to implode, haha.

It takes some getting used to, but it's still a good machine. Would I buy another one though? Probably not. I'd definitely have no problem trying a different DA.
 
I have used both the pc and gg and feel that the gg is way more powerful but to agree with everyone else a rotary is still going to be much faster
 
Lots of good observations and suggestions have been offered. For someone experienced with serious power tools I can see the v1 PC being anemic. I thought the same and added a GG6 and Flex PE14 rotary, not an option for everyone.

I still use the PC and keep a 4" BP on it so I don't have to swap in the middle of a job. The PC has been used successfully for a lot of years when there wasn't anything better out there.... the key is maximizing it's effectiveness.

5.5" pads max, 6"+ pads tax the capabilities of the machine, IMO. Meg's MF DA System works great at lower speeds to minimize vibration. Gel-filled gloves that bicyclists and others use help considerably with vibrations at speed 6. PFW pads cut as well or better and finish better than Cyan or LC yellow, IMO.

Hang on to the white pad that comes with the polisher that most throw away. Someday you'll want to use a metal polish and wish you'd kept it. (don't ask how I know this)

TL
 
greg72982 said:
Well heck, maybe I should return mine...
Click to expand...

An important point was brought up in this discussion:

Would you rather work by hand?
or
Are you ready to sink the dough on something harder to learn yet? (3401, rotary)
(IE: Have you taken the DA to the maximum of its ability and came away disappointed?)

We will soon find out if I will stand corrected on some of my frustrations I voiced above, and some may also argue I have not yet maximized the ability of my 1st gen DA.
 
Not sure how a DA and rotary are being compared to each other here, that's like comparing a Chevy Cruze to a Corvette. If anything I would keep the PC for smaller tasks as mentioned and step up to a new PC XP, Meg's G110V2, or Griot's Garage ROP. If you're doing just your own car(s) then you really don't need to buy a rotary, but if you're doing any kind of volume then it may be worth investing in. I still stand behind the simple solution of changing out the pads first, especially if you're only doing a couple cars.
 
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