Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

Anyone that keys a car should have their eyes gouged out with hot pokers. Great job. I have a stone chip in the middle of an otherwise perfect hood I would like to try this on. I have the Dr Colorchip kit, but it's not working out.
 
michal101 said:
Great work.

I had a quick question about a stone chip in the size of a pea that is chipped down to the primer on the top part of my rear passenger door just below the window. My question is I have a factory pearl type paint job on my 2000 Acura TL (pearl white) and it has 2 stages of touch up paint...1 white and then the 2nd is the pearl, so do you sand or buff out the paint and then apply the pearl and then sand and buff the pearl as well or???

BTW, this is my first venture into this, but I am looking forward to conquering this little issue!!!

Thanks, Mike
Click to expand...

Anyone???
 
michal101 said:
Anyone???
Click to expand...

Sorry, I missed that. Please tell me about your touch up. Does it come as a 2 part or one? Have you inquired with a paint supply house to see if the replacement paint is in one stage or 2 (Not including clear)? Every touch up paint I've purchased from my local paint supply house has been in one bottle. There was one vehicle (and I can't remember which one it was now) that they couldn't mix. I believe it might have been one of those iridescent (sp?) paint jobs.
 
richy said:
Sorry, I missed that. Please tell me about your touch up. Does it come as a 2 part or one? Have you inquired with a paint supply house to see if the replacement paint is in one stage or 2 (Not including clear)? Every touch up paint I've purchased from my local paint supply house has been in one bottle. There was one vehicle (and I can't remember which one it was now) that they couldn't mix. I believe it might have been one of those iridescent (sp?) paint jobs.
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Hey Richy,

The local repair shop said that they could do it for me, but they thought that it would cost too much for a 12 year old car and the paint shop guy gave me small 2 containers (1 white and 1 a clear pearl) and told me to put them on separately.

BTW, I did go to a local Advance auto store over the weekend and did purchase a bottle that said is a close match to my car's color according to the paint book and it is in 1 container.

I hope this helps further explain my first post.

Thanks again, Mike
 
michal101 said:
Hey Richy,

The local repair shop said that they could do it for me, but they thought that it would cost too much for a 12 year old car and the paint shop guy gave me small 2 containers (1 white and 1 a clear pearl) and told me to put them on separately.

BTW, I did go to a local Advance auto store over the weekend and did purchase a bottle that said is a close match to my car's color according to the paint book and it is in 1 container.

I hope this helps further explain my first post.

Thanks again, Mike
Click to expand...

Mike, either one should work. I find the product easier to work with when it's in one bottle. Otherwise you need to apply a very small amount (but enough) of colour and then go over it again with clear after it dries enough. Multiple thin coats is better than a big blob.
 
richy said:
Mike, either one should work. I find the product easier to work with when it's in one bottle. Otherwise you need to apply a very small amount (but enough) of colour and then go over it again with clear after it dries enough. Multiple thin coats is better than a big blob.
Click to expand...

Thanks, Richy,

So, I do NOT sand the white paint prior to applying the clear coat then sand and buff again??? Is that correct?

Thanks, Mike
 
michal101 said:
Thanks, Richy,

So, I do NOT sand the white paint prior to applying the clear coat then sand and buff again??? Is that correct?

Thanks, Mike
Click to expand...

No, you wouldn't need to. If it's been a few days, wipe it down with IPA first and make sure it's dry. Sorry for the delay in answering.
 
Bringing this back. Did you use clear on the car in the first post? Or just color touch up paint?

Also would I be better off buying the touch up paint in a spray can and spraying it into a small container then using a toothpick to apply it? Or would it be better to get one of those 2in1 pens.
 
From post #83 above...

richy said:
Every touch up paint I've purchased from my local paint supply house has been in one bottle.
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I'm fairly certain his touch-up paint in the original post was in one bottle. I'm also certain that means the clear was already in the mix. At least that's how my black was mixed at the paint supply store...the black and clear were in one bottle.
 
Excuse me for my ignorance, but what is a local paint supply house? A bodyshop?
 
Great repair Richy, never thought a scratched like that could be repair without spraying the entire door.
I will give this method a try on my truck.
Thanks for the write-up.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using AG Online
 
umana2482 said:
Great repair Richy, never thought a scratched like that could be repair without spraying the entire door.
I will give this method a try on my truck.
Thanks for the write-up.

Sent from my SPH-D700 using AG Online
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You're welcome! Let me know how it goes.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
KillaCam said:
Excuse me for my ignorance, but what is a local paint supply house? A bodyshop?
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No, it's where the body shops buy their paint from.


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Richy, thank you for the great write-up!
I've read, watched the videos, read again and experimented on my own vehicles. With your step by step procedure, I was able to repair a key scratch on my wife's BLACK Lincoln LS to the point of being unnoticable, and she approves! (now she knows why so much time is spent in the garage)
The wealth of knowledge and help shared by everyone, pros and novices, makes it one of the best forums on the internet.
 
Amazing job Richie :props:

I would have never guessed it would come out that nice w/o a complete repaint (of the door).

Write-up was first rate also. :dblthumb2:
 
cartman57 said:
Richy, thank you for the great write-up!
I've read, watched the videos, read again and experimented on my own vehicles. With your step by step procedure, I was able to repair a key scratch on my wife's BLACK Lincoln LS to the point of being unnoticable, and she approves! (now she knows why so much time is spent in the garage)
The wealth of knowledge and help shared by everyone, pros and novices, makes it one of the best forums on the internet.
Click to expand...
Awesome! I'm delighted to hear that. That's why we make the posts is to help people, so I'm thrilled to hear it helped you. Thanks for taking the time to provide feedback!

KillaCam said:
Was there clear mixed in with your touch up paint?
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No, it's just the base colour. Not having the clear mixed in does not seem to alter the appearance.

mdb917 said:
Amazing job Richie :props:

I would have never guessed it would come out that nice w/o a complete repaint (of the door).

Write-up was first rate also. :dblthumb2:
Click to expand...
Thanks very much for the feedback!
 
Richy,

New to the forum... first post ever!

I have read all 10 pages of this thread and am wanting to clean up some major road rash on my front bumper. (Wish I had pictures)

How would you tackle road rash, its a Black F150?

After reading this thread, my thought would be:
1) Buy touch up paint - matched to ford
2) Wash the car to clean up the area
3) Add touch up paint to the area
4) Wait till spring to Wet Sand
5) Wet sand 1500, 2000, 3000
6) Use M105 to polish out the wetsand

Or do you have a better method for major road rash?

Thanks
 
CoachBuesching said:
Richy,

New to the forum... first post ever!

I have read all 10 pages of this thread and am wanting to clean up some major road rash on my front bumper. (Wish I had pictures)

How would you tackle road rash, its a Black F150?

After reading this thread, my thought would be:
1) Buy touch up paint - matched to ford
2) Wash the car to clean up the area
3) Add touch up paint to the area
4) Wait till spring to Wet Sand
5) Wet sand 1500, 2000, 3000
6) Use M105 to polish out the wetsand

Or do you have a better method for major road rash?

Thanks
Click to expand...

First of all, a warm welcome to AG!! Road rash is probably best dealt with using a product called Dr Color Chip. They have a wipe on method that is very effective for road rash. On small chips that are more spaced out, I just use a toothpick and apply very lightly. Remember, it's better to do multiple very light coats than to do one big "blob". Give ample time (as in many hours) between coats to ensure proper drying time. I would not get into wet sanding a bumper due to being plastic. Plastic is very heat adverse and you will likely borrow way more trouble than you want if you burn the paint trying to compound the plastic after sanding it. My advice would be to use the Dr Chip on that area or how I just described and use the Dr. Chip products to do it. Use their paint and their leveler once you've brought it up to level.
In fact, you can use my method and another product called Langka which is a chemical leveler. It is not easy to use b/c it can remove your touch up if you're not extremely gentle with it. I now use the CarPro Suede mf's with Langka and it works the best I've ever had it work that way.
Hope that helps!
Rich
 
Rich,

Thanks for the reply.

My bumper is made of painted metal. Think of any F150 (or other truck), typically the bumper is chrome, but mine is black because I have a 2008 F150 Harley Davidson version.

I have seen both the Dr. ColorChip & the Langka system. I agree that the Langka system is good chemical leveler. My chips are pitted quite deep -- was not sure how well the Dr. C would work. I even have a couple of spots that are down to the primer coat / bare metal.

With that said, you believe Dr. C is the best option for a severe road rash? Or try the same method you did on the door panel -- fill the road rash with paint / let dry / wet sand / polish?

I'm just not certain how well Dr. C works, especially with it being winter.
 
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