Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

[Minja]

Wow, night and day....

 

[Louie_Blu]

Really nice work Richy, thanks for showing that, I have a similar scratch on a vehicle I need to do this week will definitely try your toothpick/wet sand/polish method :dblthumb2:

 

[richy]

Great Job Richy!
How would you compare the cut of 671 compared to other products you have used?

I have some on the shelf just havn't had chance to play with it yet.

WOW! That turned out great!

rops:

Thank you kindly. I have only used it twice so far and with a few different pads so I'm only slowly learning the abilities and best methods to use it myself. The surbuff pad was an epiphany moment for me. As far as comparing...I use M105/205 95% of the time now. So, compared to them, it would compare to 205. Maybe even a bit stronger. Again, like most polishes can be, this one is pad dependent too. What this has over 205 of course is that it also contains sealant, so you eliminate another step for a big time savings.

No kidding, a Surbuf pad. I was going to be mad as heck if the white pad would have worked for you because I tried it on more than one occasion. Car looks excellent by the way. rops:

And just to note to anyone reading this, DG #671 does NOT contain fillers.

Thanks Richard. No fillers, but of course it does contain sealant. As far as trying the Surbuff goes...when have you ever known me to think inside the box?? LOL

Fantastic repair richy !!!

Thank you Ron; I appreciate it.

Amazing and thank you! Great job! I've always wondered if that could be done and turn out that good! I'm wondering did you damp sand with a machine or block sand by hand?

Thank you for your kind words. I did the sanding via block by hand. I bought the Megs DA disc adapter thing but I still need to pickup the appropriate sand paper that goes with it. I just don't need a whole bloody box of each one!!

Great work!!!

Do you every add clearcoat on top of the touch up paint or do you just leave it?

I assume it would be much easier to skip the clear but is that gonna cause issues down the road?

Thank you! I just used the touch up they mixed for me. I've been doing it this way for years on my own cars and for others with no problems at all.

Richy,

Another outstanding step by step tutorial on how to fix something we've all experienced at least on time in our lives.

There is little doubt that when the customer saw these results she may want you to have your child! :laughing:

Tremendous work Richy!! rops:

Bobby, thank you Sir! It means a lot coming from you. After the positive response from my last scratch repair thread and the following PM's, I figured this might be a useful tool. Maybe Mike wants to make it a sticky??

In all honesty I had no idea those scratches could be repaired without repainting the entire panel. What a fantastic job and the fact that I learned something from it makes it even sweeter. No doubt the owner is ecstatic over the outcome and extra steps that you took.

It takes a long time but it does work. They were very pleased which made me proud and happy.

BRAVO Richy,just BRAVO-:applause::applause::applause:

Thanks a bunch Chris. I appreciate your comments!

Wow, night and day....

Thanks bud!!

Really nice work Richy, thanks for showing that, I have a similar scratch on a vehicle I need to do this week will definitely try your toothpick/wet sand/polish method :dblthumb2:

Lou, please PM me and let me know how it works for you. If you have any question, you can PM me or text too. Happy to help.

 

[NiSyam]

very nice job!

tried doing something similar on my gfs car and totally failed

 

[timaishu]

AMAZING! :applause:

Puhhheeeezz let this be stickied.

If not, its already in my favorites for furture reference!

 

[Sunshyne]

just ordered some Unirgrit, going to pick up some touch up this weekend and I too shall give this a try

thanks for posting this!!

 

[LegacyGT]

Richy -

Really nice and informative how-to article, this one is going into my 'reference' folder. I think you may be getting me inspired to re-do a key mark touch up job on my own car rops:

 

[Mike Phillips]

Nice how-to and write-up Richy,

The paint was allowed to dry overnight. I finished it at about 1:30 am and didn't get back on to it until 1:00 the next day so it actually had 12 hours to dry.

Couple of comments to anyone ever attempting to do this kind of repair...


1. When possible, let the paint dry longer. You want the touch up paint as dry and hard as possible before you start sanding and buffing on it.

The problem you can run into when you start buffing on touch-up paint is when you warm it up, especially when using a rotary buffer, you can actually pull the touch-up paint right out of the scratch or rock chip if you're attempting to do this to a rock chip. Then you're back to where you started only now you've got sanding marks in the surrounding paint.



2. Touch-up paint will always be softer than the factory paint surrounding the repair, here's how this affects the buffing process. When you go to buff out your sanding marks, they will buff out quickly and easily out of the touch-up paint because this paint is softer, especially if it's only dried a short time. The surrounding paint will be harder and thus it will be harder or more difficult to remove your sanding marks out 100%

It's easy to sand paint as at it's core that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting the ALL out...

When doing touch-up repair work on clear coat paints, what I've seen and experienced is the sanding marks come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily but not so with the factory clear.

So what a person does is continue buffing the sanding marks in the surrounding clear paint and what happens is you heat the panel up and your buffing pad will literally pull the touch-up paint out of the scratch or chip.



3. You really need a rotary buffer to remove sanding marks 100%

Can you do it with a DA or Flex or even Cyclo? Sure but it will take longer. Again the sanding marks will come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily, it's the surrounding factory baked-on clear coat that you'll need to be concerned with.

Try to finish sand with #3000 or higher before buffing.


:xyxthumbs:

 

[richy]

very nice job!

tried doing something similar on my gfs car and totally failed

I'm sorry to hear that. It has not always worked for me before either, but I've learned a few things to help make it more successful. See Mike's comments below; he has some very valid points there.

AMAZING! :applause:

Puhhheeeezz let this be stickied.

If not, its already in my favorites for furture reference!

just ordered some Unirgrit, going to pick up some touch up this weekend and I too shall give this a try
thanks for posting this!!

I will ask Mike if he will. Just remember to use slow speed on the rotary and a wool pad. That way you're not generating heat (which is the enemy) and get good, fast, cool correction.

Richy -

Really nice and informative how-to article, this one is going into my 'reference' folder. I think you may be getting me inspired to re-do a key mark touch up job on my own car rops:

Thank you Bill. I've been doing it this way for a while with great success every time. It took me a while to get here though. The key points that Mike and I have touched on will determine the success.

Nice how-to and write-up Richy,



Couple of comments to anyone ever attempting to do this kind of repair...

1. When possible, let the paint dry longer. You want the touch up paint as dry and hard as possible before you start sanding and buffing on it.

The problem you can run into when you start buffing on touch-up paint is when you warm it up, especially when using a rotary buffer, you can actually pull the touch-up paint right out of the scratch or rock chip if you're attempting to do this to a rock chip. Then you're back to where you started only now you've got sanding marks in the surrounding paint.



2. Touch-up paint will always be softer than the factory paint surrounding the repair, here's how this affects the buffing process. When you go to buff out your sanding marks, they will buff out quickly and easily out of the touch-up paint because this paint is softer, especially if it's only dried a short time. The surrounding paint will be harder and thus it will be harder or more difficult to remove your sanding marks out 100%

It's easy to sand paint as at it's core that's putting scratches into the paint... the tricky part is getting the ALL out...

When doing touch-up repair work on clear coat paints, what I've seen and experienced is the sanding marks come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily but not so with the factory clear.

So what a person does is continue buffing the sanding marks in the surrounding clear paint and what happens is you heat the panel up and your buffing pad will literally pull the touch-up paint out of the scratch or chip.



3. You really need a rotary buffer to remove sanding marks 100%

Can you do it with a DA or Flex or even Cyclo? Sure but it will take longer. Again the sanding marks will come out of the touch-up paint quickly and easily, it's the surrounding factory baked-on clear coat that you'll need to be concerned with.

Try to finish sand with #3000 or higher before buffing.


:xyxthumbs:

Mike, those are some amazing points. I should add a few more details too. I use a Dynabrade rotary which is a torque monster. I can do amazing correcting work at 1,000 rpm in combination with my black TufBuff wool pad and M105. That combo just plain works. The advantage to the low speed in combination with the wool is that it does not generate heat which, as you mentioned, will pull the paint out of the repair. I had corrected the 3000 grit marks in seconds with this combo!

 

[Flash Gordon]

Nice save Richy!

 

[A.P.A.D.]

wow wow wow Ricky! top notch work!

i wish u lived in NC, i would see if i could get u to shadow me while i do this with my G35. i have a nice scratch which i inherited when i bought the car in 05 and also wifey keyed the door near the handle when opening the door with the keys in her hand(she was more upset than me btw cause she knows i baby this car). also there are some rock chip spots on the hood too. i would be so nervous doing this though.

i would definitly have to tape near the edges of the door since the scratch is pretty close. also i dont have a rotary so correction would be done with my PC.

 

[richy]

Nice save Richy!

Thanks for the kind words Flash!

wow wow wow Ricky! top notch work!

i wish u lived in NC, i would see if i could get u to shadow me while i do this with my G35. i have a nice scratch which i inherited when i bought the car in 05 and also wifey keyed the door near the handle when opening the door with the keys in her hand(she was more upset than me btw cause she knows i baby this car). also there are some rock chip spots on the hood too. i would be so nervous doing this though.

i would definitly have to tape near the edges of the door since the scratch is pretty close. also i dont have a rotary so correction would be done with my PC.

For close to edges, you can use a product like Langka or Dr Chip. I got to within about 1/4" of the one edge. I checked it with the gauge a few times before doing that!! BTW, I would not recommend it with a PC. You just won't have the power. That's why I was suggesting a Dynabrade too..it is very powerful amongst Rotaries. The key is to being able to do the correction at the lowest speed possible (along with wool) to keep the heat to an absolute minimum!
And, thank you. :xyxthumbs:

 

[shoeless89]

One of the most amazing repairs I have seen outside of a body shop! That gives me a lot of hope that I can fix something that bad. Thanks for showing Richy!

 

[richy]

One of the most amazing repairs I have seen outside of a body shop! That gives me a lot of hope that I can fix something that bad. Thanks for showing Richy!

Thanks for those very kind words. I do appreciate it!!

 

[RoPaJa]

Great work on the repair and thanks for the write up.
Quick question. I am not familar with the Permanon Platinum product. Did you use a spray gun for speed, product requires it, uses less product, or some other reason?

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

Richy, awesome job. Tell me something, what is Permanon Platinum?

I read that you said you actually SPRAYED the whole car with it?

To you and Mike...can a heat gun be used to help speed up the curing process or is this not advised?

Also i was wondering what PTG do you use? I hate to buy one but as a buddy of mine on here suggested, its cheap insurance when doing classic cars with original paint....or when doing heavy compounding or sanding.

I'll send you a PM with a couple more questions .

Great job...my drivers doors are keyed (had to buy em at a bone yard a few years back after an accident)...now i want to go out there and give this a shot.

:dblthumb2:

 

[604_Snooze]

There used to be a post about permanon here, maybe deleted by AG

Richy's review of permanon
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=22Bz2L1-Bnw]Permanon Review - YouTube[/video]

For paint meter, I have the highline meter II

 

[ShineTimeDetail]

How far does that Permanon Platinum go?

 

[Wills.WindowsAndWheels]

There used to be a post about permanon here, maybe deleted by AG

Richy's review of permanon
Permanon Review - YouTube

For paint meter, I have the highline meter II

Wow, thats pretty cool. So the difference w/the car he did in the vid compared to the one in the write up is he used an HVLP to apply it now instead of the flow master (id assume a little would go a lot further with an HVLP).

Any follow up vid as to how this held up to brake dust etc? Might be a separate subject, not trynig to jack the thread here lol

 

[richy]

Great work on the repair and thanks for the write up.
Quick question. I am not familar with the Permanon Platinum product. Did you use a spray gun for speed, product requires it, uses less product, or some other reason?

Permanon Platinum is a nano spray coating similar in properties to ReLoad. The cool thing about it is that you can spray it on and blow it off or dry it off with a towel. It is a great choice for things like the barrels of wheels that you would normally have to pull in order to access well. Not with this, spray on, blow off..done! Google "permanon review" and you'll see one that I did. It is listed here too, but may get pulled.
The PP is sold as a concentrate. You mix between 5 to 10% product with 90-95% distilled water. It takes very little. The key is to spray it on evenly and lightly. I saw that application method on a You Tube video about Permanon and tried that method. I love it. You use far less and get great results.

Richy, awesome job. Tell me something, what is Permanon Platinum?
See my above comments.
I read that you said you actually SPRAYED the whole car with it?
Yup, I used a spray gun and it works great that way. You can use a pump sprayer too. The key is to atomize the spray as much as possible.

To you and Mike...can a heat gun be used to help speed up the curing process or is this not advised?

Also i was wondering what PTG do you use? I hate to buy one but as a buddy of mine on here suggested, its cheap insurance when doing classic cars with original paint....or when doing heavy compounding or sanding.

I'll send you a PM with a couple more questions .

Great job...my drivers doors are keyed (had to buy em at a bone yard a few years back after an accident)...now i want to go out there and give this a shot.

:dblthumb2:

Thanks. I changed the colour so as to not confuse your question with my comments. I use THIS gauge here. I love it. Accurate and very reasonably priced. I've had mine for a few years now. Don't do this work without one. The risk is too high. My gauge has saved my ass a few times where I've assumed there would be enough paint based on the type of car it was...and there wasn't. Saved me from being too aggessive and paying the price.
I don't know about the heat. It might make it gummy. I would think air drying best, but hopefully Mike will chime in here too. PM him if he doesn't see your post.

There used to be a post about permanon here, maybe deleted by AG

Richy's review of permanon
Permanon Review - YouTube

For paint meter, I have the highline meter II

That, too, is my choice of gauge and I highly recommend it. Several people on here and elsewhere have purchased one on my recommendation and have been very happy with it.
Thanks for posting the vid too.