Key Repair-Step by Step Procedure

Excuse my ignorance, but with wet sanding - do you actually sand the clear down to the paint, or there is some clear left after the sanding?!

Thanks
 
Danube said:
Excuse my ignorance, but with wet sanding - do you actually sand the clear down to the paint, or there is some clear left after the sanding?!

Thanks
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Well you never really want to sand down to the paint, need clear coat to protect the paint. When you wet sand you want to remove as little clear coat as possible. If you sand too much you will need to have that panel repainted.
 
I'm glad this got bumped because it's a great guide, Richy! This is such a great skill to have, and I'm thankful for the time you took to prepare this informative guide. Your customers can move on with their lives as though the damage had never occurred, and they get to keep their otherwise intact factory paint to boot! Not only that, you've given your customers something that they didn't have before: confidence that if something like this were to happen again in the future, they'll know where to go to have the damage repaired.

I feel a lot better about tackling this sort of thing in the future. Thank You :xyxthumbs:

:caflag::urtheman::caflag:
 
Danube said:
Excuse my ignorance, but with wet sanding - do you actually sand the clear down to the paint, or there is some clear left after the sanding?!

Thanks
Click to expand...
What you are doing is leveling the paint you've applied. The goal is to remove as little of the surrounding area as you can. Let me know if I need to explain that more.

Rix6 said:
I'm glad this got bumped because it's a great guide, Richy! This is such a great skill to have, and I'm thankful for the time you took to prepare this informative guide. Your customers can move on with their lives as though the damage had never occurred, and they get to keep their otherwise intact factory paint to boot! Not only that, you've given your customers something that they didn't have before: confidence that if something like this were to happen again in the future, they'll know where to go to have the damage repaired.

I feel a lot better about tackling this sort of thing in the future. Thank You :xyxthumbs:



:caflag::urtheman::caflag:
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That is so kind. I really appreciate your comments!
 
I have a keyed van. My wife's. Worse -she just bought it. I only own a PC 7424. If I tried this, would that be enough to buff out the sanding? Secondly - how hard is it to wet-sand? What's the amount of force required? Motion?
 
washnwax said:
I have a keyed van. My wife's. Worse -she just bought it. I only own a PC 7424. If I tried this, would that be enough to buff out the sanding? Secondly - how hard is it to wet-sand? What's the amount of force required? Motion?
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If you check several pages back in this thread, you'll see where Mike Phillips suggests against a PC. I am a diehard rotary user for correction, in combination with wool pads. The HUGE thing is to not generate heat. The PC just does not have the power to correct the area without getting it warm. Having said that, I've not used the mf correcting pads yet. The worst case scenario is that you'll use that with M105 and get it hot and pull the paint out of the scratch. Keep a spray bottle close by with cold water and check the surface temp often. It won't look any worse than it does now, so give it a try. Just make sure you finish with 3000 grit. You don't use much pressure at all to answer your question. Hope that helps.
 
Thanks for the reply. I'm attaching what I'm dealing with. I tried cleaning it up with a PC7424XP, orange CCS, and WF TSR 3.0. I'll be checking out the sanding and buffing sections before I purchase any additional equipment. I just don't know if I could sand, then rely on my PC 7424 - it might take too long, causing heat build up. Is that true?
 
I know I just recently saw a post where someone polished out 3K sanding marks with the Meg's mf system. Let the paint dry for days. Then sand, then compound.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
richy said:
I know I just recently saw a post where someone polished out 3K sanding marks with the Meg's mf system. Let the paint dry for days. Then sand, then compound.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I knocked out both 2000 and 3000 grit with d300/mf cutting disk on both hard and soft paint. Let me tell you though, it required some patience. M105/cyan ht pad was way faster but I imagine nothing like M105/wool on a rotary.
 
It looks fantastic, You are really providing a service with your posts. Keep it up......Thanks
Now when you used m105/205 did you just do the panels you wet sanded or the whole car. And are you using the same spray gun for thr permanon and the opti.
Thanks again
 
Tony L said:
It looks fantastic, You are really providing a service with your posts. Keep it up......Thanks
Now when you used m105/205 did you just do the panels you wet sanded or the whole car. And are you using the same spray gun for thr permanon and the opti.
Thanks again
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For that car, I did a one step with DG swirl remover for the rest of it. 105/205 were just used in the repair area.
I have a smaller spray gun for the OB. The Permanon I use a big one like what you'd use to paint a car.
And thank you!
 
Darn, wish I hadn't forgot about this thread.

I assume this would work the same for rock chips? Im in the process of opti-coating my car. If this works, I would love to do this before putting on the OC. I have only coated the roof and hood so far. Right now I am doing the directions for dr. colorchip(all it does is color the chip, very little if any filling on larger chips).
 
***Update***


Moving to how-to articles forum group.

Recently a new forum member wrote a similar thread to this one and while I try not to play "Forum Moderator" on AGO because that's not my job and we have Moderators to do this job, I did take it upon myself to make the below thread a sticky and move it to the "how-to" articles forum group.

Here's the thread,

How to fix a deliberate deep key scratch


At the time, I also intended to locate Richy's thread on this same topic, (this one I' posting to right now), and move it out of the Show & Shine forum group to the How-To articles group and also make it a sticky. Richy had asked me to make it a sticky a few days after he posted this thread and I told him I was unable to do it because I normally defer that to Moderators.

This morning I found a PM from Richy asking me if I lied to him and I told him the same thing I've posted above and that is I don't normally make other people's threads stickies but defer that to Moderators on this forum.

I also told him after making Velco's thread a sticky I figured it would be the right thing to do to also make his thread a sticky and move it too but like a lot of things, I didn't get to it that moment as I stay very busy on the forum and that was just plain unintentional

I don't like like drama on forums but instead like to practice transparency. I'm also not going to make it a habit to make other people's threads stickies and requests for this type of function should be sent one of the Moderators.


If you read post #28 of this thread you'll see I wrote this,

Mike Phillips said:
Nice how-to and write-up Richy,
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I meant it when I wrote it and I still believe it to be true today. In my reply I also added some tips to help others that would attempt Richy's process into the future.


And as Bill Murry said in the movie "Stripes"


That's the facts Jack...


:)
 
vet said:
Another great job, Ritchie!
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Thank you vet.

And, thank you Mike for your transparency. We both want to help people on AG and I believe we compliment each other's efforts. Thanks again.
 
Great work.

I had a quick question about a stone chip in the size of a pea that is chipped down to the primer on the top part of my rear passenger door just below the window. My question is I have a factory pearl type paint job on my 2000 Acura TL (pearl white) and it has 2 stages of touch up paint...1 white and then the 2nd is the pearl, so do you sand or buff out the paint and then apply the pearl and then sand and buff the pearl as well or???

BTW, this is my first venture into this, but I am looking forward to conquering this little issue!!!

Thanks, Mike
 
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