Can a newbie realistically apply Opti-coat?

Guys, I really appreciate (and value) the explanations, advice and encouragement on this thread! Chris from Optimum, thanks for explaining above that the monster can be overcome if we mess up the OC application. I'm ready to give it a go, just looking to fine tune the paint prep.

Now I'm looking for a polish that I can hand apply on the car's paint after I clay -- keep in mind, the paint doesn't have any swirls or scratches, so I am looking for a gentle polish for paint surface purposes only. Originally, I was thinking of BF total polish n seal -- but I assume that would not be wise, because I don't want any sealant applied under OC, right (per Bobby G above)?

Also, I am still looking for an alternative to an IPA wipe before applying OC. Is Groit's pre-wax cleaner an acceptable alternative to an IPA prior to putting on OC?

Finally, should I wash again just before putting on the OC, ie,
  1. Initial wash.
  2. Clay
  3. Polish (by hand)
  4. Pre-wax paint cleaner or IPA
  5. Wash (if I understood Bobby G correctly)
  6. OC app.
Getting closer -- thanks to you!:thankyousign:
Jim
 
Great to hear! IME you cant over wipe but you can over apply. Im sure your truck looks amazing!

Thanks Jim - I'm happy with it, but the pollen doesn't let it stay shiny for long. The plant I work at has about 800 employees, with pickups being the most popular type of vehicle. This morning at a safety meeting one of the guys told me that I've always got the cleanest truck in the parking lot. I about shed a tear.
 
if you wash before OC application, then make sure the car is dry before you start applying OC.

Do you have a blower of some sort to get all the hidden water out of the crevices? Nothing worse than hitting a patch of water in a seam when doing the OC application...

if looking for a polish for hand application, then maybe M105? You can work it by hand to get rid of light marring if you find anything and it finishes out pretty nice. I used it by hand on a silver bmw 328i to get out a few light marks before OC application. Just make sure to go over the area a few times afterwards with the Griots pre wax cleaner to be sure it's clean.
 
i like reading threads like this that bring up questions I hadnt yet considered.

been debating it for almost a year now... just added it to my cart for the next order.

i was thinking about one of these to apply the OC to the paint or the applicator
4 oz. Sample Bottle with Sprayer

thanks for the questions and answers!
chris<pixelmonkey>:D
Glad you made the decision. 4 oz may be a little big. Walmart or a drug store will have smaller finger pump bottles for travel. Less than a buck.
 
Guys, I really appreciate (and value) the explanations, advice and encouragement on this thread! Chris from Optimum, thanks for explaining above that the monster can be overcome if we mess up the OC application. I'm ready to give it a go, just looking to fine tune the paint prep.

Now I'm looking for a polish that I can hand apply on the car's paint after I clay -- keep in mind, the paint doesn't have any swirls or scratches, so I am looking for a gentle polish for paint surface purposes only. Originally, I was thinking of BF total polish n seal -- but I assume that would not be wise, because I don't want any sealant applied under OC, right (per Bobby G above)?

Also, I am still looking for an alternative to an IPA wipe before applying OC. Is Groit's pre-wax cleaner an acceptable alternative to an IPA prior to putting on OC?


Finally, should I wash again just before putting on the OC, ie,
  1. Initial wash.
  2. Clay
  3. Polish (by hand)
  4. Pre-wax paint cleaner or IPA
  5. Wash (if I understood Bobby G correctly)
  6. OC app.
Getting closer -- thanks to you!:thankyousign:
Jim
Get Optimum Polish II or Finishing Polish and you can go straight from polishing to applying OC. These are great polishes and contain no oils, solvents or fillers. Griots Pre-Wax Cleaner works well so does P21S Total Auto Wash.
 
Thanks Jim - I'm happy with it, but the pollen doesn't let it stay shiny for long. The plant I work at has about 800 employees, with pickups being the most popular type of vehicle. This morning at a safety meeting one of the guys told me that I've always got the cleanest truck in the parking lot. I about shed a tear.
It would surprise me if it was any other way! I have coated a good number of vehicles in the Oconee parking lot.
 
if you wash before OC application, then make sure the car is dry before you start applying OC.

Do you have a blower of some sort to get all the hidden water out of the crevices? Nothing worse than hitting a patch of water in a seam when doing the OC application...

if looking for a polish for hand application, then maybe M105? You can work it by hand to get rid of light marring if you find anything and it finishes out pretty nice. I used it by hand on a silver bmw 328i to get out a few light marks before OC application. Just make sure to go over the area a few times afterwards with the Griots pre wax cleaner to be sure it's clean.
Get the Optimum polishes you need and skip the wash before applying OC. They are great SMAT Polishes with no oils or solvents to worry about.
 
:applause:Thanks to all who have provided info and encouragement. I can now answer my original question -- A newbie can realistically apply Opti-coat! (Or at least give it a shot). After reading this and some other threads, here's my plan. (I'll wait a day or so to order, just in case someone suggests a tweak that makes sense.) If you evaluate this plan, remember I am applying OC on a new 2012 Volvo with dk blue paint with no noticable scratches:
  1. ONR Wash & dry (btw for other newbies, those waffle weave mf towels designed for waterless washes work great -- as do the large mf weave drying towels!)
  2. Clay with Pinnacle Ultra Clay & Pinnacle Lube (stay in the Pinnacle family)
  3. Apply Optimum Finish Polish, by hand using red pad and Polishing Pal applicator. Stays within Optimum family. Final buffing to make sure all looks clean.
  4. Assuming it looks OK, go directlly to apply OC, as Old Tiger suggested. (If not, I'll use Groit's Pre-Wax Cleaner in between.)
I'm taking Bobby G's sage advice -- do a test space 1 day; and if needed, split the rest into other days. Hey, I take about 90 min for an ONR, I guess I'm a little slow and picky -- but that's OK, 'cause its fun!

Hope you guys know how much you help newbies like me get through the maze of products and theories. :grouphug: I guess the only way to repay you is to pay it forward some day when I turn into an bonafide enthusiast!

Jim B
 
Figure this is a great place to post this.

So with Optimum polishes, you can go straight to OC 2.0?

My current line up of polishes are ultimate compound, swirlx, and ultimate polish. Would I have to re-wash after using these before apply OC 2.0?
 
If you evaluate this plan, remember I am applying OC on a new 2012 Volvo with dk blue paint with no noticable scratches:

Just wanted to quick comment on this, the main downside to opti-coat that I have found thus far, is it will make imperfections stand out more. Whether it is dimples in the paint, scratches, imperfections in clear bra, or just dumb luck it will be more noticeable. Take some time, to inspect the car in several different lights, including a bright sun and for indoor use I like a natural light LED. If your car was on the lot for more than 30 seconds, you most likely have swirls. I watched a guy wipe down a brand new red Nissan 370z with aerosol window cleaner, step to the side and car was swirled bad enough that we would have made them order a new one in that color if we had decided to buy that car.
 
Figure this is a great place to post this.

So with Optimum polishes, you can go straight to OC 2.0?

My current line up of polishes are ultimate compound, swirlx, and ultimate polish. Would I have to re-wash after using these before apply OC 2.0?
Unfortunately you have to wash or cleanse with a product like Eraser or gG PWC. All the Megs products use oils and/or solvents!
 
:applause:Thanks to all who have provided info and encouragement. I can now answer my original question -- A newbie can realistically apply Opti-coat! (Or at least give it a shot). After reading this and some other threads, here's my plan. (I'll wait a day or so to order, just in case someone suggests a tweak that makes sense.) If you evaluate this plan, remember I am applying OC on a new 2012 Volvo with dk blue paint with no noticable scratches:
  1. ONR Wash & dry (btw for other newbies, those waffle weave mf towels designed for waterless washes work great -- as do the large mf weave drying towels!)
  2. Clay with Pinnacle Ultra Clay & Pinnacle Lube (stay in the Pinnacle family)
  3. Apply Optimum Finish Polish, by hand using red pad and Polishing Pal applicator. Stays within Optimum family. Final buffing to make sure all looks clean.
  4. Assuming it looks OK, go directlly to apply OC, as Old Tiger suggested. (If not, I'll use Groit's Pre-Wax Cleaner in between.)
I'm taking Bobby G's sage advice -- do a test space 1 day; and if needed, split the rest into other days. Hey, I take about 90 min for an ONR, I guess I'm a little slow and picky -- but that's OK, 'cause its fun!

Hope you guys know how much you help newbies like me get through the maze of products and theories. :grouphug: I guess the only way to repay you is to pay it forward some day when I turn into an bonafide enthusiast!

Jim B


I would use ONR for a clay lube but Pinnacle is fine, If you dont own GG PWC and you need to spot clean ,use ONR left over clay lube or Opti Clean.
 
I would use ONR for a clay lube but Pinnacle is fine, If you dont own GG PWC and you need to spot clean ,use ONR left over clay lube or Opti Clean.

Jim (old Tiger), you just saved me $$ by reminding me to use ONR as the clay lube! :cheers: Did you know that by doing that you helped keep a marriage stronger?? ;) Saving the $$ also makes the upcoming order a little more palatable to my wife -- who is wondering if I have lost my senses lately with the AG orders! Thanks for this info and the other advice in this thread, and the Is sealant dead thread (that I think you started?). That thread is the one that got me to think to start this thread. UDAMAN!:thankyousign:
Jim B
 
Just wanted to quick comment on this, the main downside to opti-coat that I have found thus far, is it will make imperfections stand out more. Whether it is dimples in the paint, scratches, imperfections in clear bra, or just dumb luck it will be more noticeable. Take some time, to inspect the car in several different lights, including a bright sun and for indoor use I like a natural light LED. If your car was on the lot for more than 30 seconds, you most likely have swirls. I watched a guy wipe down a brand new red Nissan 370z with aerosol window cleaner, step to the side and car was swirled bad enough that we would have made them order a new one in that color if we had decided to buy that car.

Jim (old Tiger), you just saved me $$ by reminding me to use ONR as the clay lube! :cheers: Did you know that by doing that you helped keep a marriage stronger?? ;) Saving the $$ also makes the upcoming order a little more palatable to my wife -- who is wondering if I have lost my senses lately with the AG orders! Thanks for this info and the other advice in this thread, and the Is sealant dead thread (that I think you started?). That thread is the one that got me to think to start this thread. UDAMAN!:thankyousign:
Jim B
Really glad I could help! You will not regret the decision! Buy some ReLoad to boost the OC when the mood strikes! Glad I converted someone with the Is Sealant Dead post. Some would burn me at the stake for that one. Good thing I didnt mention wax! Mrs. OT can feel your wifes pain!
 
Hi, for those of us from Missouri (show me), here is an excerpt from the Optimum website re: going from an Optiumum polish directly to OC. Chris, who replies, is one of Optimum's key peeps. Old Tiger knows his OC!:props:

Posted 01 February 2012 - 09:59 AM
Really considering using Opti Coat 2.0. I've heard conflicting reports on prep, so I thought I would come straight to the source. Now, I've heard that if Optimum Polishes are used, just a damp MF wipe is needed. With other polishes, I have heard using power clean, dawn, or IP alcohol. I've also heard some use Car Pro Eraser.

Can anyone confirm the process if optimum polishes are used? Also, in your opinion, what's the best prep method if using other polishes?

Thanks!

#2 Chris Thomas


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Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:57 AM
You can use a water dampened microfiber to remove Optimum polish residue and go straight to Opti coat.

With other polishes, you just need to use a process that is certain to remove any residue or oils left behind. Power Clean, Dawn, Eraser...are all options.

OPTAIFcopy.jpg


Thanks again to all who replied along the way.
Jim
 
i like reading threads like this that bring up questions I hadnt yet considered.

been debating it for almost a year now... just added it to my cart for the next order.

i was thinking about one of these to apply the OC to the paint or the applicator
4 oz. Sample Bottle with Sprayer

thanks for the questions and answers!
chris<pixelmonkey>:D

That is not a fine mist sprayer head and will likely dispense too much product.
 
Hi, for those of us from Missouri (show me), here is an excerpt from the Optimum website re: going from an Optiumum polish directly to OC. Chris, who replies, is one of Optimum's key peeps. Old Tiger knows his OC!:props:

Posted 01 February 2012 - 09:59 AM
Really considering using Opti Coat 2.0. I've heard conflicting reports on prep, so I thought I would come straight to the source. Now, I've heard that if Optimum Polishes are used, just a damp MF wipe is needed. With other polishes, I have heard using power clean, dawn, or IP alcohol. I've also heard some use Car Pro Eraser.

Can anyone confirm the process if optimum polishes are used? Also, in your opinion, what's the best prep method if using other polishes?

Thanks!

#2 Chris Thomas



Chris Thomas
  • Resident Optimum Guru
  • photo-thumb-248.jpg
  • Root Admin
  • bullet_black.png
    bullet_black.png
    bullet_black.png
    bullet_black.png
  • 1,461 posts
  • Gender:Male
  • Location:Tennessee
Posted 01 February 2012 - 10:57 AM
You can use a water dampened microfiber to remove Optimum polish residue and go straight to Opti coat.

With other polishes, you just need to use a process that is certain to remove any residue or oils left behind. Power Clean, Dawn, Eraser...are all options.

OPTAIFcopy.jpg


Thanks again to all who replied along the way.
Jim
Thanks for the kind words Jim!
 
These are my favorites and they are great for samples too. Corey gets credit forr the find! Im posting because AG doesnt sell anything suitable for delivering OC. Meghan please consider carrying. something like these.
 
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