Does your Griot's DA say PROFESSIONAL random orbital on the side?

I'm gonna check mine just came in the mail.... nope mine does not say professional, but its heavier than I expected!
 
I have both the new and old models. The new does not say professional on the side plate and it states lower opm's. I tried using a yellow pad with a lot of pressure and it would not stop spinning. I did not bother getting out the old professional model, but the new one has more than enough power. You could never put this much pressure on the PC without stopping the spinning. It's funny that Mark is getting a lot less power on the newer machines. Dunno!
 
I should have made it clearer, I'm comparing both machines on SPEED 4. On 5 and 6, it may not be as noticeable. I use MF pads a lot, and like to be on speed 4.

However, I will have a "kill a watt" amp and watt reader on Friday that will really shed some light.
 
Mark,

Do you still have your first machine so you can compare the two?
 
ZEE BEST said:
I should have made it clearer, I'm comparing both machines on SPEED 4. On 5 and 6, it may not be as noticeable. I use MF pads a lot, and like to be on speed 4.

However, I will have a "kill a watt" amp and watt reader on Friday that will really shed some light.
Click to expand...

That sure would've kept me from making my last post and looking foolish
 
arkus said:
when you pay extra for the 25ft cord , they call it the HD model,
maybe they turn the HD MODEL up all the way ?
Mine eats up pads like crazy , on # 6 .
I like it powerful that way ....
Click to expand...

When you say eats LC pads, what do you mean?

I have some LC flat pads I used with my GG, and the center of the pads are indented, or beveled in in the center. Is that what you mean? are they still usable?
 
ZEE BEST said:
Yessir. :D
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I wish I still had mine
1361.gif
 
Just Changed my order To a PC was informed that Griot's is on BO for at least 5 to 7 days. I didn't like that Griot's had a change and the consumer was not aware! PC has been around for along time.
 
rockrash said:
Just Changed my order To a PC was informed that Griot's is on BO for at least 5 to 7 days. I didn't like that Griot's had a change and the consumer was not aware! PC has been around for along time.
Click to expand...
Honestly, the last 3 Griot's I tried are very little(if any) more powerful than the PCXP.
 
Rsurfer said:
I have both the new and old models. The new does not say professional on the side plate and it states lower opm's. I tried using a yellow pad with a lot of pressure and it would not stop spinning. I did not bother getting out the old professional model, but the new one has more than enough power. You could never put this much pressure on the PC without stopping the spinning. It's funny that Mark is getting a lot less power on the newer machines. Dunno!
Click to expand...


Have you seen the size of Mark's arms? I don't think any machine could stand that kinda of punishment!





Just Pickin Mark!
 
Just got home and opened up my box. My GG Polisher didn't have "professional" on the box or the machine casing. But this thing still seems powerful. I don't think it will be an issue considering I have a flex 3401 as well if I need the extra power. Still I am interested in finding out if there really is any difference.
 
arkus said:
when you pay extra for the 25ft cord , they call it the HD model,
maybe they turn the HD MODEL up all the way ?
Mine eats up pads like crazy , on # 6 .
I like it powerful that way ....
Click to expand...

Have you tried alternating pads? I spent 7 hours polishing with GG RO on speed 6 with no problem with orange B&S 5.5" pads. Used 2 sets of 2--after 2-3 sections cleaned the pad with a towel and denture brush, put it in a ziplock, switched to 2nd pad etc, etc. Alternated between the two for half the car then switched to a second set of two for the 2nd half of the car. If the BP was hot waited a couple of minutes for it to cool. Never had a problem and the pads are good as new.
 
rockrash said:
PC has been around for along time.
Click to expand...


A long, long time.

A few years ago I wrote that the Griot's Garage 6" ROP was like a safe version of a rotary buffer because on the 6 speed setting you couldn't get the pad to stop rotating and for the most part that's like a rotary buffer in that you can't get the pad on a rotary buffer to stop rotating BUT if you held the buffer at an angle so more pressure was applied to just one side of the pad you could still get the pad to stop so there still is a safety factor associated with the 6" GG unlike a rotary buffer. (Long sentence, sorry)


Here's that post with a date stamp of: 11-27-2009, 10:50 AM

Pictures from Autogeek's Roadshow Class in Dallas, Texas - November 14th, 2009


Mike Phillips said:
While Nick was working on the front clip with the Flex 3403 Lightweight Rotary Buffer, I knocked out the roof, deck-lid and the driver's side doors...

Something I noticed was as long as I held the pad flat the new Griot's Garage Random Orbital Polisher worked just like a rotary buffer. I couldn't stop it from rotating the pad and it was removing swirls and scratches like nobody's business and unlike a rotary buffer it was so easy to use. While Nick was down below on the 3403's low setting, I ran the ROP on the 6.0 setting.


Swirled-out 1954 Mercedes-Benz
54MBinDallas007.jpg



Cropped out of the above original
54MBinDallas007c.jpg



WG TSR with a Green Kompressor Cutting Foam Pad on the GG ROP Speed Setting 6.0
54MBinDallas008.jpg



After
54MBinDallas009.jpg



Same section only zoomed in on the Van in the reflection.
54MBinDallas010.jpg
Click to expand...

But still... for the type of work a person will normally be doing, any of the popular DA Polishers will get the job done as long as you're using the right pads and products. Heck I prove this every time we do an Extreme Makeover or a Show Car Makeover here at Autogeek because I purposefully put all three of these tools out for people to use.

Swirls get removed, car paint looks awesome!


Doesn't matter to me if a person buys the GG, the Megs or the PC the point is using good technique they will all get the job done.


:buffing:
 
ZEE BEST said:
However, I will have a "kill a watt" amp and watt reader on Friday that will really shed some light.
Click to expand...

Mark,

I know next to nothing about detailing, but I do know a little about motors and power tools.

Whatever you discover measuring the actual electrical load presented by a given power tool will not really give you a complete picture. This is because the ratings for these tools are complicated and somewhat misleading.

The amp/watt figures stamped on a power tool refer to a highly specific laboratory stress test that companies conduct on the motor alone and reflect the maximum current the motor can draw before frying itself. In general, motors which are larger and heavier generate more power and have higher amp ratings. But...

There are other relevant specifications which can have a huge impact on the power and effectiveness of the actual tool, including motor efficiency and overall design and build quality, particularly as reflected in the power transfer system. Griots claim they have reduced the motor weight while increasing the torque delivered by the machine.

In checking the current draw of various power tools I own, I have found that running the tool at top speed under no load consistently uses about half or just under half of the rated wattage of the tool. This is true for portable tools of all kinds, including my Bosch jig saw, my Milwaukee 1/2" hammer drill, and yes, my recently-purchased GG6.

When running flat-out at speed 6 under no load, my GG6, nominally rated at 7 amps/850 watts, draws up to over 450 watts on start-up and then settles down to just over 400 watts. It is the "HD" model with the 25' cord and does not have "Professional" printed on either the tool or the packaging.

If you find a gross difference in the power draw between your two GG6s, then you will have definitely hit on something significant. But in the end, the more important test is your own perception of the difference in power and performance. The question of "why" is something that even Griots Garage may not be able to adequately answer, even if they were inclined to do so with complete openess.

I see that there is no externally visible serial number on my GG6, which I find a bit surprising for a tool at this price point. (There may well be a number inside on the motor, but I'm not going to risk my warranty or ability to return the unit by trying to find out.) This makes it pretty well impossible for the owner base to narrow down performance differences based on production runs.

This is pure speculation on my part, but it seems likely that Griots revamped the GG6 at least in part to help address a problem of owners misusing/overusing the machines to the point of failure and then returning them under warranty. This may have related directly to an issue with the machine design--specifically, a mismatch between raw power and the overall build quality possible at this price point. They have probably found a way to address this without reducing the actual amp rating of their motor, which after all has been one of their key selling points.
 
I agree with dnobel... also there's the power factor from the motor... if it could be measured it would be great.

There are 3 types of power measure:

Active: Power that is translated to work (unit W)
Reactive: Power that won't be translated to work but is necessary for magnetic fields to work transferring power. (unit VAr)
Apparent: which is the vectorial sum of the other two. (Unit VA)

Without knowing the power factor which is the total active power divided per the apparent power PF=W/VA we can't say nothing for sure.

Because when um measure the power line current and multiply by the socket voltage you're measuring the VA (apparent power) and without knowing the power factor you can't say for sure how much power is being converted to work, or the active power (W).
Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

The solo change in motor speed induces to changes in the PF due to slip characteristic of every induction motor...
Slip in Electrical Induction Motors

I don't know if a kill-a-watt is able to measure PF... is it ?

So messing with the slip factor alone can alter the PF, which in turn won't necessarily affect the apparent power (which is the one you'll measure) and can also lead to higher torque from the motor (which is what griot's is claiming to be improved), or even lower....

Well, if I did spoke something that is wrong, let me know.... "=]
 
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dnobel said:
If you find a gross difference in the power draw between your two GG6s, then you will have definitely hit on something significant. But in the end, the more important test is your own perception of the difference in power and performance.
Click to expand...
Good stuff, thanks for taking the time to share your knowledge. :props: :dblthumb2:

I'll report my finding Friday evening.

Thanks again.
 
The one thing a thread like this does is it shows how the members of a discussion forum will dissect and discuss a topic to the 9th degree until everyone is happy with the answers and a forum consensus is reached.

I like this about forums...


:xyxthumbs:
 
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