DR. Ghodoussi where's the beef ?

[Largebore]

Dr. G thank you very much for taking the time to respond to this thread..

All the best..

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

The coating we offer has the following advantages:

1. It has a much greater film build compared to a wax or sealant.
2. It does not wear off over time without the use of abrasives or paint removers.
3. It does not oxidize over time, therefore it will continue to repel water and environmental contaminants.
4. It is much more resistant than factory clears toward environmental contaminants including acids.
5. Si-C bonds are much more resistant to enzymes than C-C bonds.

That first bullet point is something people have been trying to do by layering for all these years, that is create a layer with some level of thickness to it to provide a true barrier coating or film over the surface to protect the surface.

What we have seen so far as well as many reports we have received indicates that Opti-Coat is very resistant to bird droppings even after several days of exposure.

That is not to say it is resistant to all kinds of bird droppings since there are many varieties.

Just to note from a writing point of view, Dr. Ghodoussi is being honest with what he wrote above, he is not saying his coating will 100% absolutely protect against ALL bird droppings, he is stating that his coating technology is very resistant to bird droppings, there's a difference.

Dr. G thank you very much for taking the time to respond to this thread..

All the best..

I agree... thank you very much. It is a rare thing to have a real, PhD Chemist participate on any detailing discussion forum providing real education and for this we are thankful.


:xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

This the first time I have seen removal by anything other than abrasion. Are there any particular paint removers to avoid?

Just double checking,

When you say paint removers, do you mean like aircraft quality paint strippers? As in chemically stripping paint off car body panels?

Or something else?


I've used a LOT of paint removers in my life and they pretty much will dissolve and bubble just about any type of paint off a panel no matter what might be sitting on them in the way of a wax or sealant, and my guess is even a coating.

Also, for the record, I believe Dr. Ghodoussi has also worked on formulas for paint strippers.

:xyxthumbs:

Paint removers, as in they are taking your paint off!

Not solvents for removing oils/wax.

Can't imagine why you'd be removing your paint unless you plan to strip it for a full repaint.

That's why I posted my above follow-up to Doug, just want to make sure he mean paint strippers or paint removers and not paint cleaners or pre-wax cleaners.

Two very different types of products with similar but vague descriptive words to describe what they in fact do.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Just double checking,

When you say paint removers, do you mean like aircraft quality paint strippers? As in chemically stripping paint off car body panels?

Or something else?


I've used a LOT of paint removers in my life and they pretty much will dissolve and bubble just about any type of paint off a panel no matter what might be sitting on them in the way of a wax or sealant, and my guess is even a coating.

Also, for the record, I believe Dr. Ghodoussi has also worked on formulas for paint strippers.

:xyxthumbs:







That's why I posted my above follow-up to Doug, just want to make sure he mean paint strippers or paint removers and not paint cleaners or pre-wax cleaners.

Two very different types of products with similar but vague descriptive words to describe what they in fact do.

Anything that will remove paint, will remove Optimum's Coatings..chemical or abrasive. But you'd have to understand that a chemical that will remove the coating will not descriminate the coating from the paint and all will be removed or damaged so we've never really discussed the chemicals that would remove it.

What we have discussed are solvents and cleaners that normally tear right through know LSP's...those will not permeate Optimum Coatings.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Anything that will remove paint, will remove Optimum's Coatings..chemical or abrasive. But you'd have to understand that a chemical that will remove the coating will not discriminate the coating from the paint and all will be removed or damaged so we've never really discussed the chemicals that would remove it.

What we have discussed are solvents and cleaners that normally tear right through know LSP's...those will not permeate Optimum Coatings.

Understood.

My post was to merely make sure there was no confusion over a paint cleaner and a paint stripper, two very different products of which I am very familiar with.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Understood.

My post was to merely make sure there was no confusion over a paint cleaner and a paint stripper, two very different products of which I am very familiar with.

I know you knew about these chemicals...I was expounding upon what you and Rasky had said. I see know that referencing your quote looked like I was directing that towards you.rops:

 

[Johnny_Coonass]

First question, since I am new to OC, if I experiment with it and it doesn't come out right, how would I remove it? Second question is for Mike, what kinda truck you building? Here is mine, paint is great but sure it could use a lil polishing.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Understood.

My post was to merely make sure there was no confusion over a paint cleaner and a paint stripper, two very different products of which I am very familiar with.

First question, since I am new to OC, if I experiment with it and it doesn't come out right, how would I remove it? Second question is for Mike, what kinda truck you building? Here is mine, paint is great but sure it could use a lil polishing.

There's no need to remove OC, you only need to remove the excess product that causes the blemish. If its a dried streak or smear, just lightly polish till it goes clear. The coating will remain unless you're too aggressive and don't stop when it clears up.

 

[Johnny_Coonass]

Suppose there would be a need to remove it, can this only be accomplished by sanding?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Second question is for Mike, what kinda truck you building?

Here is mine, paint is great but sure it could use a lil polishing.

Sweet!

I'm going to guess that's a 1964 or 1965? I like the hood, that's what I think I'm going to put on my truck.

I'm building a 1978 Chevy 3/4 Ton 4x4 only it has 1-ton running gear, 4:56 gears and a 454 BBC. I've also purchased a Dodge NP205 Divorced Transfercase that will sit behind a Turbo 400 Short Shaft Transmission build by Dana Sniff.

Last weekend I tried to install the 12" springs front and rear but rand into bushing issues, I should have the right bushings by this weekend. After the springs go in I have to de-rust and paint the front frame and then the motor goes in.

Lots of work by I find turning wrenches a great way to relax.

 

[mg6045]

Suppose there would be a need to remove it, can this only be accomplished by sanding?

no, you can also compound with a cutting pad, or use a heavy polish with a light cutting pad to remove it.

basically the same process you would use to remove moderate swirls.

 

[Chris Thomas]

Suppose there would be a need to remove it, can this only be accomplished by sanding?

Abrasives will remove it. But, because it is not distinguishable from clear coat to the eye you won't safely know when to stop. There should be no reason to remove it:

• It can be topped if you like the look of various products, though they won't last as long
• Stays cleaner longer and cleans up easier than any other protection I've used.
• It wears better, has more chemical resistance, and doesn't oxidize compared to OEM clears
• Can be painted over if properly prepped including scuffing
• And the list goes on

The bond it forms is so strong, it actually becomes the topcoat.

 

[builthatch]

• Can be painted over if properly prepped including scuffing

The bond it forms is so strong, it actually becomes the topcoat.[/QUOTE]

this is an important point. so if there is a car that is coated...and a small section of a panel that needs to be be repaired and have base applied, but naturally the clear has to go all the way to the edges of the panel (you can't just re-clear a spot) the opti-coat can be scuffed and painted just like the clear with no ill effects?

should a body shop be alerted that the car is coated or does it even matter if they are doing things properly?

 

[richy]

Abrasives will remove it. But, because it is not distinguishable from clear coat to the eye you won't safely know when to stop. There should be no reason to remove it:

• It can be topped if you like the look of various products, though they won't last as long
• Stays cleaner longer and cleans up easier than any other protection I've used.
• It wears better, has more chemical resistance, and doesn't oxidize compared to OEM clears
• Can be painted over if properly prepped including scuffing
• And the list goes on

The bond it forms is so strong, it actually becomes the topcoat.

Chris, I beg to differ. In fact, this is the very reason I did not use OG on mine and my wife's car: filling paint chips. If you want to keep up on your paint chips, you need to compound the whole panel just to fill in those chips in order to re-seal them and the surrounding area. That's about the only drawback I can find with OG.

 

[Johnny_Coonass]

Mike, it's actually a '66, 454 topped with a 177 blower, 350 turbo, ford 9 inch, four wheel disc brakes, basically mini tubbed, 14" rubber on the ground. 4.30 rear gear. I enjoy wrenching too but I bought this one.

Now as for my test vehicle it's a 2000 Chevy silverado 1/2 ton 4x4, it's paint has seen batter days, I have had some success polishing the front cap but it has plenty of paint chips and being that it is my test subject, I may want to remove any coatings I apply.

 

[Chris Thomas]

this is an important point. so if there is a car that is coated...and a small section of a panel that needs to be be repaired and have base applied, but naturally the clear has to go all the way to the edges of the panel (you can't just re-clear a spot) the opti-coat can be scuffed and painted just like the clear with no ill effects?
should a body shop be alerted that the car is coated or does it even matter if they are doing things properly?

If they aren't cutting corners, it won't matter. If they try to just prepsol and shoot, it will fisheye like crazy.

Chris, I beg to differ. In fact, this is the very reason I did not use OG on mine and my wife's car: filling paint chips. If you want to keep up on your paint chips, you need to compound the whole panel just to fill in those chips in order to re-seal them and the surrounding area. That's about the only drawback I can find with OG.

That's not the case unless I'm misunderstanding what you're needing to do. The coating can be layered now within the cure period with no prep and afterwards with only a finish polish, you can micro scuff enough to reapply. OG doesn't have to be fully removed to add more, so there's no need to compound the panel.

 

[Dr. G]

Dr. G thank you very much for taking the time to respond to this thread..

All the best..

My pleasure. I am always available to help in any way I can and of course Chris is always here to help and keeps me posted of Optimum questions and discussions.

Best Regards,
David,

 

[Dr. G]

It is a rare thing to have a real, PhD Chemist participate on any discussion forum providing real education and for this we are thankful.

Mike, I appreciate your comments and while I might know a little about the theory of what makes automotive detailing products work, you know much more about how to make them work.

Of course both of us and many others here enjoy contributing whenever we can which is what makes this a great forum.

Thanks again.

David,

 

[richy]

If they aren't cutting corners, it won't matter. If they try to just prepsol and shoot, it will fisheye like crazy.



That's not the case unless I'm misunderstanding what you're needing to do. The coating can be layered now within the cure period with no prep and afterwards with only a finish polish, you can micro scuff enough to reapply. OG doesn't have to be fully removed to add more, so there's no need to compound the panel.

OK, so the new version has changed the game...that's great! Now, you mention layered within the cure period. I'm talking about fixing chips maybe months after the application. I was under the impression that once it fully hardened (used to be a week, no? What is it now?) that you had to compound it to remove it in order to effect a chip repair. Please correct me if I am wrong, I want to know exactly. Thanks.

 

[Deep Gloss Auto Salon]

OK, so the new version has changed the game...that's great! Now, you mention layered within the cure period. I'm talking about fixing chips maybe months after the application. I was under the impression that once it fully hardened (used to be a week, no? What is it now?) that you had to compound it to remove it in order to effect a chip repair. Please correct me if I am wrong, I want to know exactly. Thanks.

Rich, what Chris is saying is that you dont have to "remove" the OC/OG but rather, simply use a light polish to allow the next layer to have something to *latch* on to.

So, if you had a chip, you would section of the area with the chip (using tape) lightly polish and reapply...