Swirl removing has left a nasty Spot!!

[Buckskincolt]

They dont think work has been done to it...as far as paint goes. Both places said that yellow fades in the sun and they would use the paint code to match it. Dealer said they would have to blend it in with the fenders and such...hence painting the whole front end. Body shop just the hood...but then it is no longer factory paint. The roof niether would touch said it would have to be replaced. No high end autos around here but BMWs and Benzezez.....I would like fix too.

If the dealer says its not painted then file a warranty claim to fix it. It surly is not supposed to look that way from the factory! It should be fixed by GM. Tell the dealer that said its not been painted to get a warranty claim going ASAP!rops:

 

[jfelbab]

If you decide to cover it up as they recommended, I'd be all over OptiCoat 2.0. This is a permanent coating nearly as thick as a clear-coat and it should prevent oxidation.

I'm surprised the paintshop didn't suggest spraying a coat of clear. If you only have base coat and no clear you will likely see pretty rapid oxidation of those areas. OC has the same UV inhibiters as used in clear-coat paint.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Both Dealership and paint shop said to basically try to cover it up if I can.

Those are craters in the paint, there's nothing that's going to fix this and make it right except a new paint job.

They do not know what it is or what caused it. They said they would not paint unless they absolutely had to since it is a ZR1 and yellow. Said the color might not match due to fading and it would lesson the value of the car.

Sounds more like they just don't want the expense and the headache. It's too new to have a fading issue, I rarely see basecoat fade under the clear. I see clear coats fail all the time but not fading of the basecoat.

Maybe I can cover it up like it was before I started....I AM NOT A HAPPY CAMPER!! To bad Mike Phillips doesn't make house calls.

I do make house calls but seriously, nothing your pour out of a bottle or scoop out of a can is going to fix this. You have two options,

A: Learn to live with the defects and drive the car and enjoy it.
B: Repaint

Thanks to everyone who tried to help.... I am for sure open for suggestions on how to cover up or hide it?????

Sorry I just now found this thread but our forum members have done a stellar job of working through the problems.

I'm a complete noob also, but it looks like something has eaten away at your clear. This looks (to me) like the same sort of damage that you get from things like bird crap eating into your clear.

The craters definitely look like some kind of corrosive chemical landed on the paint and ate it away.

The last 3 pictures look like paint was sprayed over chips or something. The last picture looks like there's a sanding mark. I'm thinking it might have been a touch up or something.

That could be too... when the OP machine polished the paint he "cleared the clear coat up" and made these defects stand out like a sore thumb. That's what a good polish and pad will do, restore clarity to the clear coat so you can see the beautiful color underneath of it. And in some cases, reveal problems.

How about taking a clean white cotton towel and apply a little polish and go over a small spot in that area. If the white towel picks up the paint color you have no clear there.

Spot on to check for a compromised clear coat.

How to Test for Single Stage or Clear Coat Paint



At this point, if you don't want the expense of repainting the car then drive it like you stole it and enjoy!


:xyxthumbs:

 

[swanicyouth]

Time to find a new body shop! It's clear to me this car has already had work done so how would fixing shoddy work devalue your car?:dunno: the Yellow should not fade under clear. Sounds like a poor body shop to me. Find a very good one that has a solid reputation for fixing high end autos. If it isn't from past body work then GM should fix it under warranty! This needs to be fixed not covered up IMO.

+1. You have a great car that just needs the hood resprayed. There shouldn't be much or any "fade" On a 3 year old car. And they say just "leave it"? Find somewhere that specializes in Vettes and get it fixed properly.

 

[SteveZR12010]

If you decide to cover it up as they recommended, I'd be all over OptiCoat 2.0. This is a permanent coating nearly as thick as a clear-coat and it should prevent oxidation.

I'm surprised the paintshop didn't suggest spraying a coat of clear. If you only have base coat and no clear you will likely see pretty rapid oxidation of those areas. OC has the same UV inhibiters as used in clear-coat paint.

From the brief google search..that looks to be a good product....even AG has it. I would not be able to use until surface is right though.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

+1. You have a great car that just needs the hood resprayed. There shouldn't be much or any "fade" On a 3 year old car.

And they say just "leave it"?

For the record, I provided two options and if it were mine, I would opt for option B. I never know what a person's budget is for their toys. :xyxthumbs:

A: Learn to live with the defects and drive the car and enjoy it.
B: Repaint

Find somewhere that specializes in Vettes and get it fixed properly.

swanicyouth's post FTW

(I didn't find your first name on the Roll Call thread?)


Roll Call - What's your real first name?




:dblthumb2:

 

[SteveZR12010]

Thanks Guys,
I am going to take it to another shop Wed. and see what they say. I will google and try to find someone who works on higher end cars in the area. Paint shop said 700 to 1500.00 for the hood. He would have to find out if the use a special clear. I am going to print all the pics to 8x10 on our fancy printer for them to see since it hard to see.

 

[SteveZR12010]

Also,
If anyone knows a really good shop within 100 miles or so of Montgomery AL I could maybe take it or the hood to them.

 

[BobbyG]

Steve,

I wished you lived closer to Boston. I close friend of mine has a shop that many high-end dealers send their cars to. Frank employees 9 or 10 guys and their work is amazing...

 

[FUNX650]

Thanks Guys,
I am going to take it to another shop Wed. and see what they say. I will google and try to find someone who works on higher end cars in the area. Paint shop said 1. 700 to 1500.00 for the hood. He would have to find out if the use a 2. special clear. I am going to print all the pics to 8x10 on our fancy printer for them to see since it hard to see.

1. Very reasonable price-estimate range...make sure to add in the "Corvette tax", though.
2. The Velocity Yellow is a: 'special', from the factory up-charge 'Tint-Coat'...(BC/Tinted-CC/CC)...some painters may find it troublesome to color-match on a carbon-fiber hood re-spray---others may find it not so troublesome.

If you do go the re-spray route---I hope you duly inform the Painter/his:"Buffer-person"...to take extra precautions around the hood's view-window.


I also agree that this paint-situation is a GM warranty issue...
The 3yrs/36mon; or, any of their "Goodwill-Warranties", as well.


Good Luck!




Bob

 

[maxniman]

Also,
If anyone knows a really good shop within 100 miles or so of Montgomery AL I could maybe take it or the hood to them.

Steve,

I would join the corvetteforum and go to the Regional section - ask for recommendations from members for a paint/body shop. You might also look to see if there is a local Corvette Club and ask for recommendations. Folks are always asking for top paint and body shops in the Houston area in the Southwest section.

(It is probably a good idea to join for all the other vette questions you may/will have!)

Good Luck

 

[Billy Baldone]

Both Dealership and paint shop said to basically try to cover it up if I can.
They do not know what it is or what caused it. They said they would not paint unless they absolutely had to since it is a ZR1 and yellow. Said the color might not match due to fading and it would lesson the value of the car. I guess I will put 20 coats of WG 3.0 paint sealant and then the fuzion wax or the polish enhancer or the glaze (will have to read up to see what to use) on and see what happens. Maybe I can cover it up like it was before I started....I AM NOT A HAPPY CAMPER!! To bad Mike Phillips doesn't make house calls.
Thanks to everyone who tried to help.... I am for sure open for suggestions on how to cover up or hide it?????

You already stated, the cafax shows a rear end incident. By painting any other part of the car you won't devalue it any more than has already been done by the mark on the carfax. If it were my personal car, and I purchased it with a bad carfax, I would get the spots repainted.

 

[swanicyouth]

I know a place in King of Prussia PA (near me). They did some body work on my BMW. This place fixes Ferraris, Lambos, and other exotics. I took my BMW there and went in there "shop". It was a wear house filled with Ferraris, Lambos, and classics in various states of repair.

They had an Enzo that was smashed into a pole. The guy there said people truck there cars in from all over the country to this place. The link is: http://www.karosserie.com/. I don't recall your locale, but may be worth spending the time to go farther away to have a first class repair done.

If it was me, I would have to get it fixed at almost any cost. I would save the money until I had enough to do it right. While you may be able to improve it with glaze, it will always be noticeable somewhat.

If its close to the headlight, you could put a clear bra over it. That may hide it somewhat and it will be protected from further damage. Or ,you could get the hood wrapped in carbon fiber to match the roof. Or, what about a tasteful graphic. I'm not sure how large the area it is.

 

[SteveZR12010]

Steve,

I wished you lived closer to Boston. I close friend of mine has a shop that many high-end dealers send their cars to. Frank employees 9 or 10 guys and their work is amazing...

1260 miles....21 hours.....I should be able to be there in.....say 12 hours with a little speeding......Thanks Bobby.

1. Very reasonable price-estimate range...make sure to add in the "Corvette tax", though.
2. The Velocity Yellow is a: 'special', from the factory up-charge 'Tint-Coat'...(BC/Tinted-CC/CC)...some painters may find it troublesome to color-match on a carbon-fiber hood re-spray---others may find it not so troublesome.

If you do go the re-spray route---I hope you duly inform the Painter/his:"Buffer-person"...to take extra precautions around the hood's view-window.


I also agree that this paint-situation is a GM warranty issue...
The 3yrs/36mon; or, any of their "Goodwill-Warranties", as well.


Good Luck!




Bob

Not sure what all this means.....('Tint-Coat'...(BC/Tinted-CC/CC) But I will ask if the painter has any experience with carbon fibor and make sure to stay clear of the lens.
The GM dealers here do not have good reputations on car repairs I believe, although I was treated fine when I took it in Mon. for them to look at. He did not say they would or would not take care of...just that "GM wants me happy". I don't know if they will pay for someone else to fix or not?? I am going to see what my options are though.

Steve,

I would join the corvetteforum and go to the Regional section - ask for recommendations from members for a paint/body shop. You might also look to see if there is a local Corvette Club and ask for recommendations. Folks are always asking for top paint and body shops in the Houston area in the Southwest section.

(It is probably a good idea to join for all the other vette questions you may/will have!)

Good Luck

I will... thank you.

You already stated, the cafax shows a rear end incident. By painting any other part of the car you won't devalue it any more than has already been done by the mark on the carfax. If it were my personal car, and I purchased it with a bad carfax, I would get the spots repainted.

You are absolutely correct....I did not think of that. Carfax already has me.:dblthumb2:

I know a place in King of Prussia PA (near me). They did some body work on my BMW. This place fixes Ferraris, Lambos, and other exotics. I took my BMW there and went in there "shop". It was a wear house filled with Ferraris, Lambos, and classics in various states of repair.

They had an Enzo that was smashed into a pole. The guy there said people truck there cars in from all over the country to this place. The link is: Karosserie. I don't recall your locale, but may be worth spending the time to go farther away to have a first class repair done.

If it was me, I would have to get it fixed at almost any cost. I would save the money until I had enough to do it right. While you may be able to improve it with glaze, it will always be noticeable somewhat.

If its close to the headlight, you could put a clear bra over it. That may hide it somewhat and it will be protected from further damage. Or ,you could get the hood wrapped in carbon fiber to match the roof. Or, what about a tasteful graphic. I'm not sure how large the area it is.

Not as far as Boston......but. I am sure I will wind up getting it fixed....even though I might be able to hide it a little.....I know its there.

 

[BobbyG]

Not sure what all this means.....('Tint-Coat'...(BC/Tinted-CC/CC) But I will ask if the painter has any experience with carbon fibor and make sure to stay clear of the lens.

The GM dealers here do not have good reputations on car repairs I believe, although I was treated fine when I took it in Mon. for them to look at. He did not say they would or would not take care of...just that "GM wants me happy". I don't know if they will pay for someone else to fix or not?? I am going to see what my options are though.

Steve,

Avoid the stealership shops like the plague. Their main goal is to make the car "appear" good until after it leaves the lot.....

Tinted Clears

I have a 2004 Z06 in Millennium Yellow. The clear on mine is also tinted and is very common on cars and trucks...

The clear on my 1999 Dodge Dakota SLT is also tinted and adds a driftwood tone over silver...rops:

 

[FUNX650]

Not sure what all this means.....('Tint-Coat'...

-Sorry for the incomplete description...

-As far as I know, all Corvettes painted at the Bowling Green assembly plant have a primer-coat,
a color-coat (BC) and a clear-coat (CC): A two-stage BC/CC paint system.

-The Corvettes designated to receive a premium "Tint-Coat" have a primer-coat,
a color-coat (BC), and a tinted-clear-coat (T-CC).
This is to affect a change on how the final "color" is seen.
Still a two-stage BC/CC paint system.

-There are some OEM three-stage paint systems:
[color-coat (BC), an additional tint-coat (TC), and then a clear-coat (CC)].

-These tint-coats usually cost more because of additional painting step(s),
including the necessity to purge and clean the paint-robots...at least twice per run.

It's not the paint that's costly to OEM's...
It's their assembly lines' downtime that's gotta be paid for...
One way or another.

Hope this helps some.



Bob

 

[ohmy34]

Steve, I have a friend here in decatur al. that all he does is restores old corvettes, i will try to go by an talk to him tomorrow. see if he knows anybody in your area. Jonathan

 

[SteveZR12010]

Steve,

Avoid the stealership shops like the plague. Their main goal is to make the car "appear" good until after it leaves the lot.....

Tinted Clears

I have a 2004 Z06 in Millennium Yellow. The clear on mine is also tinted and is very common on cars and trucks...

The clear on my 1999 Dodge Dakota SLT is also tinted and adds a driftwood tone over silver...rops:

I will try to avoid them...Trying to research all the questions...I have to figure out if I will be able to get GM to pay for it??? especially to pay a Paint shop of my choice (not sure of my rights here). I think they are going to try and say it was caused by the owner (me) or one of the previous 2 or 3 according to the carfax I have....according to them somebody owned this car for one day.

-Sorry for the incomplete description...

-As far as I know, all Corvettes painted at the Bowling Green assembly plant have a primer-coat,
a color-coat (BC) and a clear-coat (CC): A two-stage BC/CC paint system.

-The Corvettes designated to receive a premium "Tint-Coat" have a primer-coat,
a color-coat (BC), and a tinted-clear-coat (T-CC).
This is to affect a change on how the final "color" is seen.
Still a two-stage BC/CC paint system.

-There are some OEM three-stage paint systems:
[color-coat (BC), an additional tint-coat (TC), and then a clear-coat (CC)].

-These tint-coats usually cost more because of additional painting step(s),
including the necessity to purge and clean the paint-robots...at least twice per run.

It's not the paint that's costly to OEM's...
It's their assembly lines' downtime that's gotta be paid for...
One way or another.

Hope this helps some.



Bob

WAY better Thank you....I believe a lot of members here forget that a lot of Newbies and Guests do not know the acronyms and lingo. It took me a several threads to figure out WG was Wolf Gang....This is GREAT info that you are supplying...so please dont take that wrong.

Steve, I have a friend here in decatur al. that all he does is restores old corvettes, i will try to go by an talk to him tomorrow. see if he knows anybody in your area. Jonathan

That would be Very nice of you...Thank you....does he do new ones...does he have a website?

 

[jfelbab]

If your Vette has a tinted clear coat the test for presence of cc with polish and a white towel may not have been conclusive. If the clear coat is tinted polish and white towel will show some color, not a lot but some. Do a couple more test to a spots on the sides of the car and see if the amount of color coming up is the same. This may not be a case of no clear, just some shoddy workmanship.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

If your Vette has a tinted clear coat the test for presence of cc with polish and a white towel may not have been conclusive. If the clear coat is tinted polish and white towel will show some color, not a lot but some. Do a couple more test to a spots on the sides of the car and see if the amount of color coming up is the same. This may not be a case of no clear, just some shoddy workmanship.

Great point Jim!

Single Stage Paint - Tinted Clears - Basecoat/Clearcoat - Embedded Dirt




Tinted Clear Coats
If you're working on a TINTED clear you'll pull a LITTLE color or pigment and see this on your buffing pad. For example, here's some pictures from the Red Jewel Tint 2011 Camaro we buffed out a few weeks ago that belongs to Rene.


2011 Camaro - Modeled by Amy


Robert does a Test Spot on the hood to dial-in the process the rest of us will duplicate over the rest of the car. For this he's using the Flex 3401 with a Cyan Hydro-Tech Cutting Pad and the Blackfire Scratch Resistant Compound. This combination of products on the 5.0 Speed Setting removed all but the deepest RIDS

Here you can see the tint in the tinted clear coming off the car as we compound it and onto the face of the pad. This is nothing to worry about, keep in mind when you're doing any correction work on a clearcoat paint system you too are removing paint that is building up on the face of your buffing pad but because the paint is clear you won't see it build-up on the face of your pad.