Most regretted detailing product purchase

Qusai said:
very interesting. My wheels were also painted and my tires need some major cleaning! I know that i have to be careful when scrubbing the tires. I was planning on using tuf shine for my tires. How does one know if the product is safe for painted wheels??
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Trial and error. I find Sonax and IronX to be great on painted wheels , but if you keep your wheels sealed with your favorite sealant you don't always have to use one of these expensive cleaners, most of the time your soap will work fine in between. As for the tires Amazing roll off works great or Belch white (autozone) , but try not to get any on the painted wheels. I have Tuf shine tire dressing, but not the cleaner. I don't like the dressing, it feels like it dries out my tires, and if I get it on my rim it dries hard like a clear coat and I have to scrub it off, it's a pain. I use poorboys bold and bright it shines and acts like a cleaner as well(only for lightly soiled tires) , I apply it once wipe off with a towel to get some dirt off and reapply, it lasts a week or two.
 
ssnobrakes said:
Several mentions on Jet Seal.......I was going to try it. Whats the problem with it?..........Thanks in advance
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I've used the jetseal a couple of times and it has worked well for me on paint and esp the glass. But don't get it anywhere near textured plastics. It looked good in the beginning but after a week in the sun and light rain, it created a white/grey film that took hours to get off w/apc! It's currently my base coat and just started topping it w/Pete's 53 (ok results the jury is still out on the 53) but I'll prob keep the js though.
 
Inferno said:
No mater how I applied it be it by hand or machine I felt it goes on too thick. It hazes quickly and is a pita to remove, and dusts a lot. This is one you don't want to get into any crevices. The longevity was very good but not worth the hassle unless you have a lot of time on your hands. After I tried BFWD it definitely beat the shine, matched the durability, and killed it with its ease of application.
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Looks like I'll have to try theBFWD at some point. I do agree w/the crevices comment, but even though it hazes quickly I defiantly recommend 20-30 min wait time and the finger test. When it passes that, IMHO it removed rather easily.
 
Inferno said:
Trial and error. I find Sonax and IronX to be great on painted wheels , but if you keep your wheels sealed with your favorite sealant you don't always have to use one of these expensive cleaners, most of the time your soap will work fine in between. As for the tires Amazing roll off works great or Belch white (autozone) , but try not to get any on the painted wheels. I have Tuf shine tire dressing, but not the cleaner. I don't like the dressing, it feels like it dries out my tires, and if I get it on my rim it dries hard like a clear coat and I have to scrub it off, it's a pain. I use poorboys bold and bright it shines and acts like a cleaner as well(only for lightly soiled tires) , I apply it once wipe off with a towel to get some dirt off and reapply, it lasts a week or two.
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If you'e referring to westleys Bleach White, don't I used to use it and it will cause premature tire rot after a feW years.
 
pcrjunkyamd said:
Meguiar's Show car Glaze 7 not easy to work with.
Johny
johny i have to agree anyone got any tips on removing the stuff
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I've been using this stuff for over 30 years and never developed a good application process until Mike published his article on restoring single-stage paint:http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...w-car-finish-antique-single-stage-paints.html

This stuff needs to be worked into the paint with some "passion", not just merely wiped on the surface. I've found the best applicator to be a typical 16"X16" mf cloth, folded to give a 4"X8" pad. You can then keep your palm flat on the surface, while using your thumb and little finger to pinch the pad against your hand, keeping it from unfolding as the product grabs the surface. Keep the pad primed so it's lightly dampened with product and rub it in with a bit of pressure. There should only be the thinnest film of residue remaining on the surface when you're done. After each panel, remove it with a good mf by "breaking out" the film. Start in one spot and gradually work out from there. M07 doesn't haze like conventional waxes; It's more like the skin on pudding, so as you move out from your starting spot, you may only uncover more uncured product that will require another pass to remove completely.
More than any other product I've ever used, thin, thin, thin is essential.
I know it sounds like more effort than it's worth, and that may be true on modern finishes. Some folks use it for the final step as a one day enhancement on a show car, but IMO it's a bit too much work, especially with products such as DG Aquawax, OID or Meg's M26, to name a few, that offer a quick gloss boost with very little effort. But if you're working with the more permeable old-school SS paints, M07 has absolutely no equal.

Bill
 
I'd +1 on the "Meguiar's Show car Glaze 7 not easy to work with"
AND
"NXT Spray Wax hard to remove"

OTOH I tend to like the NXT products overall, but that spray wax goes on really thin and sticks like freaking GLUE! Then you find it everywhere later.

Probably one that would benefit from a uber thin application with a blue pad.
 
Any of the headlight restorations except for diamondite. forever black trim restorer (on my honda crv trim, it chips all over and very quickly). Anything I have bought "as seen on tv."
 
The Porter Cable 7424XP kit :nomore: with the 6.5" pads. Lack of power for sure. I only use it with 4" pads. I've bought a 3401 FLEX what a difference!:buffing:
 
I don't have a specific product but rather a specific category of products, namely quick detailers. I find them frankly obsolete at this point.
 
Not sure if anyone else mentioned this (I stopped reading at around page 4, =D) but I regret my purchase of DoDo Juice's red mist.

I know everyone else seems to like it, but I find that it smears 99% of the time I use it. I've tried using the tiniest little bit of it, but it still smears as if I used a gallon. =/ I don't know if I got a bad batch, or if I'm just totally inept... but I regret that.

I love their other products though, especially Supernatural!
 
For me, my most regretted (so far) actually has been fk425 quick detail. It streaks and takes forever and a day to wipe off.

I use it as a drying aid for when I ONR my car but for some reason, I just can't get that product to work. Meg's uqd, OWC, or even just using a damp microfiber gets the job done of drying after ONR better than fk425.

Maybe it's just my technique or the towels I use...
 
I wet sanded and compounded a black late model zr1 was in a hurry that weekend and picked up some 3m crap said bodyshop safe no silicons car looked great a week later after one wash it looked as if it were just sanded and never buffed out really that bad...
never again stray from the usual..

I offered my local 3m Rep a free detail on his truck with him there wetsanded it then used his compound on it two weeks later his truck was screwed so bad he claimed it on his insurance as vandalism...

lol, bodyshop that buffed it used his same compound....

Same problem again.. revenge is sweet..
 
So far, I'd have to say CG's Sticky Gel Wheel & Rim Cleaner. I like Meg's APC+ more. Oh well, at least I can use the bottle for something else.
 
Armorall butter smooth wax and every single turtle wax product i have used
 
Poorboy's natural look dressing. I can't stand the cherry cough medicine smell. I was also very disappointed with Autofom. It didn't keep things from sticking to the surface as advertised. Also, it smelled like Raid ant killer.
The early Kompressor pads. They had so little velcro they wouldn't stay on the buffer. You could tap the buffer with your hand and they would fall right off.
GG Best of Show Wax It comes out of the bottle very stringy like there is plastic in it, and is extremely difficult to remove. It looks pretty nice, but other things look as nice or better than it does.

Horsehair (stiffened with nylon bristles) car wash brush. Was $19.99 in 1990 from The Eastwood Company. You could hear it scratching the paint as you used it. Useless for cleaning paint. Not stiff enough for carpets. Might be ok for tires. Too weak for scrubbing the floor....
 
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there are multiple items i havent liked, however some are what a customer will like. *shiny dash and interior*, *plastic look shining tires*, and some type of odor from a gas station bathroom.

here is my list WITH my selection of better options noted with
thumbs up = 👍
thumbs down = 👎

chris<pixelmonkey>:D
 
So far my only regret is buying a gallon of BFWD Conditioning Shampoo before I discovered ONR. The shampoo is fine. In the warm months I like to use it with one ounce of ONR in the mix. But, ONR is so much easier, I don't use much BFWD Shampoo anymore.
 
style said:
I wet sanded and compounded a black late model zr1 was in a hurry that weekend and picked up some 3m crap said bodyshop safe no silicons car looked great a week later after one wash it looked as if it were just sanded and never buffed out really that bad...
never again stray from the usual..

I offered my local 3m Rep a free detail on his truck with him there wetsanded it then used his compound on it two weeks later his truck was screwed so bad he claimed it on his insurance as vandalism...

lol, bodyshop that buffed it used his same compound....

Same problem again.. revenge is sweet..
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Yep. 3M's line of compounds and polishes are pretty craptastic.
 
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