What do you use on white car?

I have noticed that particularly on white vehicles, iron-x'ing (or similar) makes a noticeable difference to how 'white' the white appears.

The removal of the ferrous compounds generally tends to remove the 'brown'ish' appearance.

I have been using BL topped with collinite 845 then sealed with V7 and simply love the wet look it produces.

Just my 2c
 
MarkD51 said:
Hope you folks don't mind me asking a couple questions, as I feel they are on topic.

Of the selection of fine Nuba Pastes the original poster has in his arsenal, I noted most of you folks have reccommended another product as a topper, Collinite 845 Insulator Wax.

May I ask why you lean towards this product, rather than Blackfire Midnight Sun, Wolfgang Fuzion, DoDo Egg Wax, and perhaps others not mentioned?

Is it longevity? YES Is it that you feel this particular Wax (845) has a better compatibility with White Paints? I wouldn't use the word "compatibility" but if you have a very loose definition of the term then YES. Or is it other qualities or a combination of
qualities that make many of you choose this as a best pick versus any other product as a final topper? YES Thanks, Mark
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See above..... other reasons are:

1- He asked for a good sealant/wax combination and 845 just seemed to fit a lot better compared to the other products you mentioned. Certainly there are others that can be added as well but why confuse the matter with long-winded responses to a very direct question.

2- Bang for the buck.... some of the premium nubas would not add much more gloss and depth on white paint compared to 845.

As an aside, aren't you the "Mark" who has been around for awhile under different handles? If so, I am a little surprised by these questions from you. I wonder if you are asking these questions to help the original poster consider other options. Because if you are who I think you are then I know you are aware of all of this already.
 
mwoolfso said:
See above..... other reasons are:

1- He asked for a good sealant/wax combination and 845 just seemed to fit a lot better compared to the other products you mentioned. Certainly there are others that can be added as well but why confuse the matter with long-winded responses to a very direct question.

2- Bang for the buck.... some of the premium nubas would not add much more gloss and depth on white paint compared to 845.

As an aside, aren't you the "Mark" who has been around for awhile under different handles? If so, I am a little surprised by these questions from you. I wonder if you are asking these questions to help the original poster consider other options. Because if you are who I think you are then I know you are aware of all of this already.
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Hi, and thanks for your answers.

I basically asked such questions only to try somehow to assure myself that I wasn't necessarily missing anything by not buying, and trying Waxes-Wax-Sealants like Fuzion, Midnight Sun, and perhaps others like Souveran, Chemical Guys products etc.

I know 845 is a fine product, have used it on my truck, as well as other vehicles over the years.

I like it a lot, but I think you can well understand the inherit geek desires to try these other products in time, as money allows.

To answer your last questions, no sir, I'm a relatively new member here, only been here about a couple of months, discovering this site, and a couple others online, such as Autopia, Meggys Online also.

Before then, I really never knew of these sites, with Stores, and Forums even existed.

I discovered these sites by the research, and purchase of a Covercraft NOAH Car Cover a few months ago. That was a very wise purchase I should've made years ago.

Overall, I'm very happy that I'm a member here, and my wishes are to be a good contributing member here, just get along-play well with all, and to enjoy the great commaderie, and the great products offered at these sites.
Mark

 
lawrenceSA said:
I have noticed that particularly on white vehicles, iron-x'ing (or similar) makes a noticeable difference to how 'white' the white appears.

The removal of the ferrous compounds generally tends to remove the 'brown'ish' appearance.
...
Click to expand...

:iagree:

I think this is a very good advice. Deep cleaning your paint will make a big difference. Just watch this:

[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4N1X-gO-eAw]IronX on a brand new Citroen DS3 - YouTube[/video]

DG #501 is also a very good advice after IronX.

Grifftech said:
I have a decent selection to choose from so I will just try different combos :) I have Blackfire Sealant, CG JetSeal, Wolfgang Deep Gloos Sealant, V7, Blackfire Midnight Sun Wax, Dodo's Limited Edition Caranuba Egg wax and Wolfgang Fuzion. I just hate that it is cold out and really want to do a nice detail on the car.
Click to expand...

You already have a lot of LSPs: don't bother buying more. Try a combo like WGDGPS + Füzion or BFWD + Midnight Sun after the above mentioned "deep cleaning" and you will be satisfied.
 
mwoolfso said:
...
As an aside, aren't you the "Mark" who has been around for awhile under different handles? If so, I am a little surprised by these questions from you. I wonder if you are asking these questions to help the original poster consider other options. Because if you are who I think you are then I know you are aware of all of this already.
Click to expand...

The Mark you are thinking about is FivePoint.0.
 
MarkD51 said:
Hi, and thanks for your answers.

I basically asked such questions only to try somehow to assure myself that I wasn't necessarily missing anything by not buying, and trying Waxes-Wax-Sealants like Fuzion, Midnight Sun, and perhaps others like Souveran, Chemical Guys products etc.

I know 845 is a fine product, have used it on my truck, as well as other vehicles over the years.

I like it a lot, but I think you can well understand the inherit geek desires to try these other products in time, as money allows.

To answer your last questions, no sir, I'm a relatively new member here, only been here about a couple of months, discovering this site, and a couple others online, such as Autopia, Meggys Online also.

Before then, I really never knew of these sites, with Stores, and Forums even existed.

I discovered these sites by the research, and purchase of a Covercraft NOAH Car Cover a few months ago. That was a very wise purchase I should've made years ago.

Overall, I'm very happy that I'm a member here, and my wishes are to be a good contributing member here, just get along-play well with all, and to enjoy the great commaderie, and the great products offered at these sites.
Mark
Click to expand...

Got it. Thanks and Happy New Year!
 
My fav is still UPP/#16 on white or just WG DGS on it's own.
 
My suggestion is to prep the paint properly and it won't matter whether you spend $15 on a bottle of Collinite 845 or $100+ on a boutique wax, it'll look the same either way. I'm of the opinion that there is very little (if any) discernible difference in looks and you won't find anyone that can spot one wax from another once it's applied to the paint. If it makes you feel better to put something expensive on the paint, you'll find tons of people here who will agree with that, and I think you're justified in thinking that. I'm just not of the notion that I need 37 different waxes for every type of paint that I come across.

White paint looks its best when it's thoroughly cleaned, so the people here recommending Iron-X and a solid paint cleaner are, in my opinion, giving you great advice. If it were a darker color, I'd say remove every last defect (swirls, scratches, water spots) and don't worry as much on the paint cleaners as you do on the lighter colors. But regardless of color, I think you can protect the paint with any wax/sealant/coating and what you'll really be showing off is your prep work, not the sacrificial layer on top.
 
Y2KSVT said:
My suggestion is to prep the paint properly and it won't matter whether you spend $15 on a bottle of Collinite 845 or $100+ on a boutique wax, it'll look the same either way. I'm of the opinion that there is very little (if any) discernible difference in looks and you won't find anyone that can spot one wax from another once it's applied to the paint. If it makes you feel better to put something expensive on the paint, you'll find tons of people here who will agree with that, and I think you're justified in thinking that. I'm just not of the notion that I need 37 different waxes for every type of paint that I come across.

White paint looks its best when it's thoroughly cleaned, so the people here recommending Iron-X and a solid paint cleaner are, in my opinion, giving you great advice. If it were a darker color, I'd say remove every last defect (swirls, scratches, water spots) and don't worry as much on the paint cleaners as you do on the lighter colors. But regardless of color, I think you can protect the paint with any wax/sealant/coating and what you'll really be showing off is your prep work, not the sacrificial layer on top.
Click to expand...

:applause::applause:
 
Y2KSVT said:
My suggestion is to prep the paint properly and it won't matter whether you spend $15 on a bottle of Collinite 845 or $100+ on a boutique wax, it'll look the same either way. I'm of the opinion that there is very little (if any) discernible difference in looks and you won't find anyone that can spot one wax from another once it's applied to the paint. If it makes you feel better to put something expensive on the paint, you'll find tons of people here who will agree with that, and I think you're justified in thinking that. I'm just not of the notion that I need 37 different waxes for every type of paint that I come across.

White paint looks its best when it's thoroughly cleaned, so the people here recommending Iron-X and a solid paint cleaner are, in my opinion, giving you great advice. If it were a darker color, I'd say remove every last defect (swirls, scratches, water spots) and don't worry as much on the paint cleaners as you do on the lighter colors. But regardless of color, I think you can protect the paint with any wax/sealant/coating and what you'll really be showing off is your prep work, not the sacrificial layer on top.
Click to expand...

+1 on this advise. In addition to IronX, I also spray and wipe down the paint with P21s TAW. Rinse and then hit the car again with the foam gun - rinse. Autoscrub & clay the paint. Compound & polish (depending on what's required after doing a test spot) and THEN, LSP of your choice. For me,that's 3 coats of Blackfire Crystal Seal or WG Deep Liquid Gloss because it only takes about 10 minutes to apply and looks fantastic. Probably lasts 4 mos but it's so easy to apply, I typically do it 1x a month. Get the paint clean
 
  1. Wash
  2. Clay
  3. Fine polish or use a paint cleaner with a dual action polisher
  4. Collinite 845
 
I use dura gloss 501,105 followed by colonite 845 on my new Silverado!!! Who says white cant reflect!!
View attachment 14870

By the way, I also used Carpro trix and clay before the polish!!
 
Shortspark said:
I have a 2012 Mercedes ML350 and I purchased an expensive paint option called "Diamond White". It is beautiful and well worth the money. I searched for suggestions as to what to use on this paint and got a hundred different product opinions. I had a lot of luck over the years with both the Klasse twins and Duragloss products on my light silver Honda Ridgeline truck. So, I thought I would try Duragloss as soon as I got the ML back from the dealer.

I agree with rwright and primo spaghetti that the Duragloss combinations are hard to beat on white. Because the paint is pristine all I did was wash, clay with a mild bar (Griot) and put two coats of 601/105 topped a day later with AquaWax. It looked great. I have since gone to 601/111 and it looks even better!

I wash with Duragloss Rinseless w/AquaWax and it revives the gloss beautifully. Between washes I often use Fast Clean and Shine which is the Duragloss detailer and it too brings an added shine to the paint with the added benefit of actually bonding to the sealant. That gives me not only added luster but added protection as well. I have decided to stick with Duragloss products for my Diamond White paint because of performance, ease of use and price. I might find something better but I have no intention of knocking myself out over it and best of all, I do not have to concern myself with bonding issues and a certain product's compatibility with another. Duragloss for my white paint is easy, cheap and looks terrific. Can't beat that in my book!!
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I've used almost the same combo on white that you described. I can't imagine how much better it would look if I had used 501 too. The DG Rinseless with Aquawax does do a fantastic job of reviving the gloss and adding beading. I've put FCS on top of it ,and I've even topped with Aquawax also. The Aquawax layer is kind of redundant,but it just looks that much more awesome. I got 4 months of pretty good beading before I got bored and put another coat of 501/105 on.
 
AllenK said:
I've used almost the same combo on white that you described. I can't imagine how much better it would look if I had used 501 too. The DG Rinseless with Aquawax does do a fantastic job of reviving the gloss and adding beading. I've put FCS on top of it ,and I've even topped with Aquawax also. The Aquawax layer is kind of redundant,but it just looks that much more awesome. I got 4 months of pretty good beading before I got bored and put another coat of 501/105 on.
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I decided to try something different after cleaning up the Benz the other day. It still looked great of course but this time I topped it with OSW instead of AquaWax or FCS as I usually do. I got a sample of OSW with an order a while back and wanted to try it.

I did not believe OSW would be incompatible with the Duragloss products because OSW contains not only wax but sealant polymers as well. It was quick and easy and looks really good, in fact I think it was slicker and easier than AquaWax. So, it now looks like I have a dilemma. I think next time I will top one half of the car with AquaWax and one half with OSW and just see what happens.
 
Shortspark said:
I decided to try something different after cleaning up the Benz the other day. It still looked great of course but this time I topped it with OSW instead of AquaWax or FCS as I usually do. I got a sample of OSW with an order a while back and wanted to try it.

I did not believe OSW would be incompatible with the Duragloss products because OSW contains not only wax but sealant polymers as well. It was quick and easy and looks really good, in fact I think it was slicker and easier than AquaWax. So, it now looks like I have a dilemma. I think next time I will top one half of the car with AquaWax and one half with OSW and just see what happens.
Click to expand...

Are you referring to Optimum Car Wax? I've used that same combo,but not on a white car. I've washed my wife's red G8 and my red Formula with the Duragloss Aqua Wax rinseless wash and topped it with Optimum Car Wax. It looked very nice on both cars. I suspect it would look awesome on white as you have said.

I may get some Iron X and some 501 in the future. I do have a little bit of KAIO left that I may lay down before my next layer of 601/105.

I said in a previous post that I had used 501 before,but I meant 601.
 
Yes, I meant Optimum Spray Wax when I wrote "OSW", but I guess it is actually called Optimum Car Wax. Even though you meant to say 601 instead of 501, I heard that polishing with 501 followed by 105 would be a great combination. I have never used 501 because my car is new and I thought it does not need quite that kind of cleaner strength. I may be wrong about that because after reading some of these posts it looks like you can't get cars too clean as a prepping step, even new cars.

I also use the 601 only because people (and Duragloss) say it prolongs the durability of 105 or 111. That may be true, however, as far as looks are concerned I have used 105 with and without 601 and I can't tell a difference.
 
Every few months:
cg black light
cg jetseal
cg 5050 or zymol glasur

Weekly:
cg v7

glasur is great but you have to use your fingers to apply it and I prefer to use an applicator pad or use my flex 3401 and red ccs pad so I use cg 5050 more often. I was thinking about trying a dodo juice wax next or just use sealant after I run out of wax. It makes a difference, but I drive my car often and do track days and I like it looking nice, but I'm not as anal as some other porsche owners or want it to become a garage queen so keeping it clean is good enough for me.
 
Shortspark said:
Yes, I meant Optimum Spray Wax when I wrote "OSW", but I guess it is actually called Optimum Car Wax. Even though you meant to say 601 instead of 501, I heard that polishing with 501 followed by 105 would be a great combination. I have never used 501 because my car is new and I thought it does not need quite that kind of cleaner strength. I may be wrong about that because after reading some of these posts it looks like you can't get cars too clean as a prepping step, even new cars.

I also use the 601 only because people (and Duragloss) say it prolongs the durability of 105 or 111. That may be true, however, as far as looks are concerned I have used 105 with and without 601 and I can't tell a difference.
Click to expand...

I can't see much of a difference in looks,but I did one side of my hood with 601/105,and one side with just 105. The 601/105 appears to be holding up better.

I was surprised at how much stuff 601/105 pulled out of the paint the first time I used it. A brand new white applicator turned pretty black. I didn't get as much out on the 2nd application a few months later though.
 
vegas911gts said:
Every few months:
cg black light
cg jetseal
cg 5050 or zymol glasur

Weekly:
cg v7

glasur is great but you have to use your fingers to apply it and I prefer to use an applicator pad or use my flex 3401 and red ccs pad so I use cg 5050 more often..
Click to expand...

I've only used my pot of Glasur a few times, but I've always applied it with a foam applicator, and never had any issues with it...
 
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