Megs 101 foam cut vs 105 ultra cut

Newdetailer1

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So whats the big difference between these when used with a foam cutting pad on a flex 3401? Will the 101 work better as a compound?? Any thoughts are appreciated. Thanks
 
M101 will cut quicker and have a longer work time. Both M101 and M105 will work with your foam pads. When working your M105 don't be afraid to put a dot of M101 on the pad with a dot or two of M105.it will extend the working time slightly. If you haven't purchased the M101 yet you may want to consider some M100.
 
I have 105 and I know in the past I've just added a lil DM to the pad to help extend the working time. I saw that the 101 was made specifically for foam pads so I wasn't sure if its better than the 105? From what im guessing its not a matter of better, but different...
 
I think it's better and I bet many others would agree. It's sooo much easier to wipe off than 105 too.
 
M101 will cut quicker and have a longer work time. Both M101 and M105 will work with your foam pads. When working your M105 don't be afraid to put a dot of M101 on the pad with a dot or two of M105.it will extend the working time slightly. If you haven't purchased the M101 yet you may want to consider some M100.

Agree
 
Waiting on Mike to answer. When is Auto geek going to have the kick butt M101 in gallon size. And why m101 so expensive
 
Is following 101 with 205 too large of a jump to make or just fine to do?
 
Perhaps if it did flash people wouldn't have such a hard time with it. :dunno:
I'd describe it more like it goes from working to it feeling like it's jumping/clumping. (But whadda' I know....) ;)

Later,

Cardaddy
 
105 doesn't flash. It uses non diminishing abrasives which gives the same amount of cut from start to finish. The abrasives stay the same size.

Agree, ^ good man here.

Ok. So being a newby, Im following CM8 6MT's advice, and mastering UC before I step up to 105.

But the question still remains for both 105 and UC... How do you know when the product has broken down enough?

I understand that you must "prime" the pad first. Then apply a small amount of product to the pad before starting. Some use 3 pea sized drops, some an x. When do you know its time to stop abrading?
 
But the question still remains for both 105 and UC... How do you know when the product has broken down enough?
You don't "break down" these specific polishes. They use "non-diminishing" abrasives. The abrasives stay the same size from start to finish. For comparison sake, Menzerna polishes use "diminishing abrasives". With these polishes, the abrasives start large and break down into smaller abrasives as you polish. These polishes have to "flash". I prefer not to use diminishing abrasive polishes unless I absolutely have to.

Try 4-6 section passes with M105 or UC. If that doesn't do the trick, step up to a more abrasive pad and/or product.
 
You don't "break down" these specific polishes. They use "non-diminishing" abrasives. The abrasives stay the same size from start to finish. For comparison sake, Menzerna polishes use "diminishing abrasives". With these polishes, the abrasives start large and break down into smaller abrasives as you polish. These polishes have to "flash". I prefer not to use diminishing abrasive polishes unless I absolutely have to.

Try 4-6 section passes with M105 or UC. If that doesn't do the trick, step up to a more abrasive pad and/or product.

Gotcha. :dblthumb2:
 
Ok. So being a newby, Im following CM8 6MT's advice, and mastering UC before I step up to 105.

But the question still remains for both 105 and UC... How do you know when the product has broken down enough?

I understand that you must "prime" the pad first. Then apply a small amount of product to the pad before starting. Some use 3 pea sized drops, some an x. When do you know its time to stop abrading?

You don't "break down" these specific polishes. They use "non-diminishing" abrasives. The abrasives stay the same size from start to finish. For comparison sake, Menzerna polishes use "diminishing abrasives". With these polishes, the abrasives start large and break down into smaller abrasives as you polish. These polishes have to "flash". I prefer not to use diminishing abrasive polishes unless I absolutely have to.

Try 4-6 section passes with M105 or UC. If that doesn't do the trick, step up to a more abrasive pad and/or product.

:whs:
UC will work for a loooooooonng time but it will get drier as it goes. Keeping a watch on your pad rotation speed each section pass is the best way to pick up on it. (Well for both actually but 105 will slow much sooner) Then again, just count those section passes, 5 ~ 6 is plenty enough, (at least without doing a clean on the fly to the pad). After that you might decide to go back, but keep the pad clean at all costs.

I too have taken on SMAT products and am trying to do as many different paints as possible with them along the way. FWIW I've found that I use far less SMAT than I did DAT's in the past (due to the diminishing effect) plus the pads don't get so loaded. (jmho of course)
 
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