Swirled Out '11 WRX STi (Metallic Black)

Big Boi

Big Boi

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I have a co worker that has hired me to correct some swirls (a lot) on his STi. He bought the car used a couple months ago with the swirls. My guess it's the previous owner loved the drive thru car washes or used dirty towels to dry the car.

He's a car guy, and likes to do his own car care and maintenance. He's got a couple nice rides, and a couple that will leave tread marks on your neighbors Vette.

With this car, I have explained to him that I will be able to achieve anywhere between 75-90% correction. I was planning on tracking it in these steps:

Dawn wash
IronX
Clay or PolyShave decon block or DA pad
Foam wash and rinse
UC on MF discs or Megs MF Correction kit
M205 (foam polishing pads or MF????????)
Griots PRE-WAX or Paint Prep Cleaner
M21 topped with M26 on jeweling pad
V7 or Megs Quik Detailer

What do you guys think?

Keep in mind the paint ISN'T oxidized or water etched. Just swirled the eff out. Pic show a dirty car after a rain storm.

Pics:
20130210_002458_zps67d30eac.jpg


20130210_002445_zpsc748214c.jpg


20130210_002420_HDR_zps8828e848.jpg


20130210_002438_zps726193e4.jpg


20130210_002420_zpsc8a0ed25.jpg




Sent from my Galaxy Note II using AG Online
 
Or should I skip m21 and m26 and use the provided wax in the da kit? Also how many pads should I use? If I buy the MF kit, I'll have 2 cutting disc, do I need more? 2 finishing disc, can I substitute them with my current foam polishing pads once they get dirty?

Sent from my Galaxy Note II using AG Online
 
I think u will be set if u get a 5" meg da mf kit.
I'd definitely get some more cutting pads...

Also u should suggest ur friend to get it opti coated.
It will be worth it
 
fenderpicks said:
I think u will be set if u get a 5" meg da mf kit.
I'd definitely get some more cutting pads...

Also u should suggest ur friend to get it opti coated.
It will be worth it
Click to expand...

How many cutting pads should I get?

I did recommend it to him. He likes the idea. But likes being able to put on a fresh coat of wax every now and then more, LoL.

Also, what do you think about my technique?

Sent from my Galaxy Note II using AG Online
 
I have a question (a serious one, and not trying to be rude).
Wouldn't you be better off just showing prospective client photo's of your work to show what is possible instead of committing to 75%-90% correction? Just beause you know what you're capable of doesn't mean you should automatically tell a client.

I mean there's nothing wrong with having confidence in your abilities, but that's far different than setting your customer up for a let down in the case you'd run into problems. I'm just suggesting that it means more to under promise and over deliver than the reverse. Make sense?
 
Skip the micro-fiber finishing discs and finish with foam. MF cutting discs work great.

Before doing any work you should find out how the owner intends to keep the finish swirl free. If he doesn't know, there's your sign. Educate him how he can do it, and then tell him you'd be happy to maintain it for him if you need the money. He might just let you. If he does, then thinking about correction work is okay. I'd just use a one-step if he's not going to let you maintain it, or if you feel he won't be able to maintain it. Just because they have nice cars doesn't mean they know squat about keeping the paint nice.
 
OBP = Obsidian Black Pearl. I thought the same thing when I bought mine and realized the paint was swirled to f and back. but the more I read I am realizing that Subarus have soft paint. I have a 2010 STi world rally blue and this is how it looked when I got it.

IMG_0946.jpg


and this is after a little bit of polishing on the rear quarter and the door has not been done.

IMG_0977.jpg


also, Subarus get driven!
IMG_0958.jpg


Hope this helps :)
 
Hoytman said:
I'm just suggesting that it means more to under promise and over deliver than the reverse. Make sense?
Click to expand...

I agree

Hoytman said:
Skip the micro-fiber finishing discs and finish with foam. MF cutting discs work great.
Click to expand...

Yeah I always skip the finishing discs an go straight to foam when post compounding with D300.
 
Subaru only used Java Black Pearl in 2004 that car is nearly 10 years old.
 
I also own a WR Blue Subaru and have worked on many different colored WRX/STI's. I love working on them 'cause they are so easy to correct. In the photos posted in the 1st post it doesn't look too terribly bad. I'd try M205 on a white pad first. Might have to make an extra pass or two, but you'd save time by skipping the compounding step. It's worth a try and if it isn't cutting (pun) it, then go ahead with the UC step.

Good luck :xyxthumbs:

Edit: I just looked a little closer at the pics and yeah it's a little more swirled than what I seen at first glance... but I'd still try 205/white first and see if that will take care of it.
 
The paint is just as bad as this one I found online:

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Hoytman said:
I have a question (a serious one, and not trying to be rude).
Wouldn't you be better off just showing prospective client photo's of your work to show what is possible instead of committing to 75%-90% correction? Just beause you know what you're capable of doesn't mean you should automatically tell a client.

I mean there's nothing wrong with having confidence in your abilities, but that's far different than setting your customer up for a let down in the case you'd run into problems. I'm just suggesting that it means more to under promise and over deliver than the reverse. Make sense?
Click to expand...
I agree. I get most of my clients due to the pics I have of my previous work. I only told him that because hes a close friend, before hes a client. But then again, your right. I could be setting myself up for a let down. Point taken sir. :xyxthumbs:

Hoytman said:
Skip the micro-fiber finishing discs and finish with foam. MF cutting discs work great.

Before doing any work you should find out how the owner intends to keep the finish swirl free. If he doesn't know, there's your sign. Educate him how he can do it, and then tell him you'd be happy to maintain it for him if you need the money. He might just let you. If he does, then thinking about correction work is okay. I'd just use a one-step if he's not going to let you maintain it, or if you feel he won't be able to maintain it. Just because they have nice cars doesn't mean they know squat about keeping the paint nice.
Click to expand...
So would I be best just ordering the MF cutting discs, and some Megs foam pads. Using UC and m205?

I did educate him. I gave him a list of things to buy. Number one was quality mf's. Some of the swirls look like towel induced maring (straight lines). He's going to keep it up.

RLucky82 said:
OBP = Obsidian Black Pearl. I thought the same thing when I bought mine and realized the paint was swirled to f and back. but the more I read I am realizing that Subarus have soft paint. I have a 2010 STi world rally blue and this is how it looked when I got it.

IMG_0946.jpg


and this is after a little bit of polishing on the rear quarter and the door has not been done.

IMG_0977.jpg


also, Subarus get driven!
IMG_0958.jpg


Hope this helps :)
Click to expand...
What did you use?

CM8 6MT said:
I agree



Yeah I always skip the finishing discs an go straight to foam when post compounding with D300.
Click to expand...
What would you use CM8?

Francisco said:
The Subarus are known to have a very soft paint, specially the new ones, I have done quite a few and you need to make sure you have the right products and the right MF towels to do the work. I believe someone recently did one here. Here is the link, hope it helps you.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/60312-java-black-pearl-subaru-impreza-wrx-detailed-lawrence.html
Click to expand...
Thx

g26er said:
I also own a WR Blue Subaru and have worked on many different colored WRX/STI's. I love working on them 'cause they are so easy to correct. In the photos posted in the 1st post it doesn't look too terribly bad. I'd try M205 on a white pad first. Might have to make an extra pass or two, but you'd save time by skipping the compounding step. It's worth a try and if it isn't cutting (pun) it, then go ahead with the UC step.

Good luck :xyxthumbs:

Edit: I just looked a little closer at the pics and yeah it's a little more swirled than what I seen at first glance... but I'd still try 205/white first and see if that will take care of it.
Click to expand...
Thx
 
I used Adams severe swirl remover then, swirl and haze remover then machine polish, using Adams green, orange, then white 6.5" pads pc7424xp. those pictures you posted don't look past the point of severe swirls.

g26er said:
I also own a WR Blue Subaru and have worked on many different colored WRX/STI's. I love working on them 'cause they are so easy to correct. In the photos posted in the 1st post it doesn't look too terribly bad. I'd try M205 on a white pad first. Might have to make an extra pass or two, but you'd save time by skipping the compounding step. It's worth a try and if it isn't cutting (pun) it, then go ahead with the UC step.

Good luck

Edit: I just looked a little closer at the pics and yeah it's a little more swirled than what I seen at first glance... but I'd still try 205/white first and see if that will take care of it.
Click to expand...

:iagree:
 
Ok so I am by no means an expert at this and generally only detail on weekends and have done around 30 cars or so.

I did detail a Java Black Subaru 2 weekends ago and I can tell you that this was by far the softest paint I have worked on.

I would be very reluctant to attack it with any sort of compound as you will be removing more clear coat that is necessary.

I managed to correct the paint using a finishing pad and Menz SF4500, and it had some pretty bad water spots as well as the usual swirls and RDS.

My advice would be to start with the least aggressive pad/polish combo you have any perform a test spot. Only if you are not satisfied with the results of your test spot should you move up to something slightly more aggressive.

Here is a link to the write up I did on the Subaru in case you want to have a look through what I did and how it turned out.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/60312-java-black-pearl-subaru-impreza-wrx-detailed-lawrence.html

Best of luck with it....
 
lawrenceSA said:
Ok so I am by no means an expert at this and generally only detail on weekends and have done around 30 cars or so.

I did detail a Java Black Subaru 2 weekends ago and I can tell you that this was by far the softest paint I have worked on.

I would be very reluctant to attack it with any sort of compound as you will be removing more clear coat that is necessary.

I managed to correct the paint using a finishing pad and Menz SF4500, and it had some pretty bad water spots as well as the usual swirls and RDS.

My advice would be to start with the least aggressive pad/polish combo you have any perform a test spot. Only if you are not satisfied with the results of your test spot should you move up to something slightly more aggressive.

Here is a link to the write up I did on the Subaru in case you want to have a look through what I did and how it turned out.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/60312-java-black-pearl-subaru-impreza-wrx-detailed-lawrence.html

Best of luck with it....
Click to expand...
Awesome!

I read the thread last night, LoL
 
You should always do a test spot so you don't waste time. Start with least aggressive and move up from there. Time is money in detailing.
Todd
 
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