NEW! DP Paint, Wheel, & Glass Coatings + Coating Prep Polish!

Good feedback Chris, I'll def take better note to that when I do the next car.

Yes this stuff smells straight up like ipa...
 
I have a bottle of the Detailer's Paint Coating coming as well, but did not order the Paint Prep product. It should be here next week Wednesday.

I have both CarPro Eraser, and the Wolfgang Paint Cleansing Lotion, so I reckon I'll try these, and see what results I attain? Hoping all will work ok?

The Kia's paint is feeling a bit "bumpy" again, so it looks like I might be claying, and perhaps some polishing will probably be needed after.

I have a fresh bottle of Menz SF4500 on hand also, and been wanting to try that as well.

I've read the entire thread so far, and have been following how some users are saying it's taking more product than initially anticipated?

At this point I am unsure, if this is the case, or if it is being over-applied?
I'd assume you folks who have tried it so far do have past experience with other WOWA's and Coatings, that your findings aren't due to inexperience, and over-application?

I don't have any finger pocket applicators on hand, but do have some small yellow foam applicators, so I assume I'll be OK in this regard.

We have been getting rain virtually every day here, but when I can, I'll put the products I mention above to use, and add some further personal comments when I can.
Mark
 
I wouldn't use PPE. It's got fillers and oils.

Thank you for that advisement, and caution. I probably would've checked before using, but none the less, happy to hear that straight up front.

That seems to leave me with CP Eraser, or an IPA Mix. Not sure how effective either will be, since the Kia has been treated to a large slew of various sealants over the past 5-6 months, like WGDGPS 3.0, Menzerna Powerlock, WGDGLS, UPGP, and lots of feedings of DG Aquawax, and Pinnacle Crystal Mist Spray.

Washing-Claying-Polishing should remove some, and not sure if Eraser will "erase" the rest?

Am having some regrets now, of perhaps not getting the Detailer's Paint Cleaner?
Mark
 
Just wash and clay and then polish with the sf4500. This will remove your top sealants. Then eraser/IPA and you should be good.
 
Thank you for that advisement, and caution. I probably would've checked before using, but none the less, happy to hear that straight up front.

That seems to leave me with CP Eraser, or an IPA Mix. Not sure how effective either will be, since the Kia has been treated to a large slew of various sealants over the past 5-6 months, like WGDGPS 3.0, Menzerna Powerlock, WGDGLS, UPGP, and lots of feedings of DG Aquawax, and Pinnacle Crystal Mist Spray.

Washing-Claying-Polishing should remove some, and not sure if Eraser will "erase" the rest?

Am having some regrets now, of perhaps not getting the Detailer's Paint Cleaner?
Mark

IME Eraser and IPA are almost useless with the sealants you mention. They are some tough sealants to remove. I've found nothing you can put in a bucket can remove them as well. If your trying to prep the car without polishing, I would try something like Prepsol or G Tech Panel Wipe.

You got to be careful with products like SF4500 as well. They tend to leave a lot behind. It may come off with IPA, but who knows? Eraser leaves something behind, something that makes it "anti static". This won't interfere with CarPro coatings, but with DP, who knows? PPE leaves a glaze behind, that's a no go for sure.

But if a manufacturer offers a specific prep product for their coating, that's really the way to go, even if just quickly by hand.
 
There is not much out there that a good water based polish such as HD polish won't remove. It polishing will take opti coat off it will take off your sealants with no issue.
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I have a bottle of the Detailer's Paint Coating coming as well, but did not order the Paint Prep product. It should be here next week Wednesday.

I have both CarPro Eraser, and the Wolfgang Paint Cleansing Lotion, so I reckon I'll try these, and see what results I attain? Hoping all will work ok?

The Kia's paint is feeling a bit "bumpy" again, so it looks like I might be claying, and perhaps some polishing will probably be needed after.

I have a fresh bottle of Menz SF4500 on hand also, and been wanting to try that as well.

I've read the entire thread so far, and have been following how some users are saying it's taking more product than initially anticipated?

At this point I am unsure, if this is the case, or if it is being over-applied?
I'd assume you folks who have tried it so far do have past experience with other WOWA's and Coatings, that your findings aren't due to inexperience, and over-application?

I don't have any finger pocket applicators on hand, but do have some small yellow foam applicators, so I assume I'll be OK in this regard.

We have been getting rain virtually every day here, but when I can, I'll put the products I mention above to use, and add some further personal comments when I can.
Mark
This was my first time using a WOWA or coating type product so over-application is very possible for me.
 
Nick, how many section passes do you need for the paint prep polish? How much pressure? Thanks.
 
I wouldn't use PPE. It's got fillers and oils.

This is interesting because PPE is supposed to clean the paint for applying wax or sealant. Isn't the fillers and oils going to hurt durability of whatever it's topped with, yet it's marketed as helping to improve durability?

The suggestion of using DP paint cleaner beforehand; does this also mean DP coating has less ability to bond to non-perfectly clean paint compared to other sealants or waxes?
 
This is interesting because PPE is supposed to clean the paint for applying wax or sealant. Isn't the fillers and oils going to hurt durability of whatever it's topped with, yet it's marketed as helping to improve durability?

The suggestion of using DP paint cleaner beforehand; does this also mean DP coating has less ability to bond to non-perfectly clean paint compared to other sealants or waxes?

All I know is I've used them and never durability issues.

But with coatings you want to ensure the most bonding you can thus cleanest surface possible.
 
6-8 for this small hood, each door was 4 or so, and they're small doors. for me, it flashed almost immediately after 1-2 "swipes" on a section, it doesn't drag or soak an applicator like we're used to wax doing. That's why I felt like I had to use so many sprays. I buffed after every section.

That's a tad on the heavy side; you can do a hood with 3-5 sprays, depending on the size of the vehicle.

I have both CarPro Eraser, and the Wolfgang Paint Cleansing Lotion, so I reckon I'll try these, and see what results I attain? Hoping all will work ok?

I don't have any finger pocket applicators on hand, but do have some small yellow foam applicators, so I assume I'll be OK in this regard.

Mark

If you don't have Detailer's Coating Prep Polish on hand, a 15% solution of IPA will work, however it is strongly recommended to use Detailer's Coating Prep Polish first. It will prep the surface better than anything else.

Nick, how many section passes do you need for the paint prep polish? How much pressure? Thanks.

4-5 passes with about 10 lbs of pressure. Remember, you're not trying to abrade away any paint.

This is interesting because PPE is supposed to clean the paint for applying wax or sealant. Isn't the fillers and oils going to hurt durability of whatever it's topped with, yet it's marketed as helping to improve durability?

The suggestion of using DP paint cleaner beforehand; does this also mean DP coating has less ability to bond to non-perfectly clean paint compared to other sealants or waxes?

Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer is designed to be used with waxes and sealants. Detailer's Coating Prep Polish is a much better choice for paint coatings.
 
Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer is designed to be used with waxes and sealants. Detailer's Coating Prep Polish is a much better choice for paint coatings.

It sounds like Detailer's Coating Prep Polish would be a better choice for waxes and sealants too? No fillers results in better bond right?

Do coatings like DP paint coating have more trouble bonding through polishing oil than a non-cleaner sealant or wax?

From what I gather, doing the Wolfgang Twins people go right to WGDGPS without needing to use a paint cleaner or IPA. However, it seems like you'd need to add a step of using the DP prep polish after the polishing steps or the coating won't bond as well as the sealant would.
 
One thing that concerns me on these coatings, is their UV protection. Will the paint still fade underneath the coating?

Also, can you go strait from compounding to this polish, or should you clean the paint first? What I mean is will this polish remove the oils from the compound as well as not introducing any more?
 
The prep polish is specifically to remove compound/polishing oils and deep clean the paint. I can't answer the fade/if question, but remember, you can top this coating with another wax you prefer.

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It sounds like Detailer's Coating Prep Polish would be a better choice for waxes and sealants too? No fillers results in better bond right?

Do coatings like DP paint coating have more trouble bonding through polishing oil than a non-cleaner sealant or wax?

From what I gather, doing the Wolfgang Twins people go right to WGDGPS without needing to use a paint cleaner or IPA. However, it seems like you'd need to add a step of using the DP prep polish after the polishing steps or the coating won't bond as well as the sealant would.

Paint cleaners are designed to work with their sealant and wax counterparts. So longevity shouldn't be an issue with them I've never had any. Personally I'd still use Blackfire GEP under BFWD instead of DP prep simply because they're designed to work together, plus GEP cleans awesome and fills to my needs!

When you use products of the same brand usually they're all compatible with each other. So some folks go straight to their sealant and no IPA. You have to find what works for you most of all. Also don't over think this all too much. If you keep products in the same family you'll be fine. People have been doing this stuff a while if there were issues they'd be well known! :)
 
What would be the preferred coating for plastic headlights? Should I use the glass coating or the paint coating? Or is this just a bad idea?
 
Used this stuff today for the first time. I have to say, for a guy that doesn't impress easily, this is good stuff. If the durability matches the looks and smoothness, this is going to be a go to product for me.

Nick, how about an 8 oz. version? I hardly used any on the Jeep I did today, but can already tell I'm going to want this in bigger quantities if available. I'm going to phase out Wolf's Hard Body after a little more testing and go with this as my low cost add-on coating.

How it worked...

It's just like Opti-Seal as far as application. Hardly any difference besides the fact that it flashes a tiny bit faster.

If you are having streaking issues, you are simply using too much. For a small or mid sized sedan, 1 spray can literally do an entire panel, or half a hood or roof. You do not need to see "wet" trailing behind your applicator pad to be getting a thorough application. Just like Opti-Seal, if you use a LED light directly behind your app pad you can see that you are still applying more than enough product.

If you are really concerned about coverage, do your passes horizontally, then vertically. I found that circles worked just fine for me.

I posted a pic of the Jeep on my Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/VisualProDetailing
 
I'm doing a pearl white Fusion within a week or two, I'll definitely try the led light behind my swipes. Sounds like my issue was not seeing it, and when my applicator started to drag, I assumed I needed more.

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