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I've come to the same conclusion on all of these graphene products. Companies are using graphene as a buzzword, to generate hype and noise, but I don't see it adding much, if anything, to the performance of the products. In fact, for me, it's gotten to the point where it's having the opposite...

Looks like Hyper Seal beading as a stand-alone is just below average. Oh well, that's one item off my wish list :D

And here I was planning for my second sojourn into detailing to be a lot simpler, but you guys just suck me back in! :buffing: I thought I had it all figured out - go for a nice durable hydrophobic liquid sealant in M27, maintain with Meg HCD periodically, while using up the gallons of various...

Optimum claims durability of up to a year, and with its chemical composition, you would expect it be something on the level of a coating lite such Cancoat, CQuartz Lite, or Infinity Wax Synergy Lite. Despite the less than stellar experiences you've had with it, I'm still so tempted to get a...

I’ve seen a few videos which would exhibit this. Here’s one testing a variety of ceramic QDs, on both bare paint and on top of CQuartz UK - you can see drastic differences in the hydrophobics when they’re on the coating: Ceramic Quick Detailer Test | First Rinse + Slickness Carpro v Gyeon v...

The instructions for Touchless are likely the way they are because every foam cannon dilutes product differently, so they can’t give a standard dilution ratio. If you were willing to use it in an IK foamer, it would be a lot simpler - for a PIR of 4%, mix at 1:24 product:water.

I remember some discussions previously where people mentioned Opti-Seal generally looking better and being slicker to feel 12 hours after application - the thinking back then was that the additional curing time allowed all of the solvents to completely flash off and the product to cross-link and...

Liquid SiO2 paint sealants, such as Wolfgang SIO2 Paint Sealant and Meguiar's M27 Pro Hybrid Ceramic Sealant. When I first got into detailing, more than 10 years ago, the big debate at the time was around (paste) waxes vs (liquid) sealants. The then current generation of liquid sealants, such...

If I just wanted a product that increased gloss and slickness without leaving any substantial protection behind, how does this compare and differ to some of the old school QDs, such as Optimum Instant Detailer, FK425 (anti-static finish!), or Meguiar's Final Inspection? Meg's Final Inspection...

I know this is a somewhat older thread, but in case anyone is still uncertain, ONR can be used on fresh repaints. There's further information on that thread, with a quote from Dr. G mentioning that ONR can even be painted over. In addition, I recall that OCW can be safely used on fresh...

It would be interesting to see the durability of this. Opti-Seal was one of the first LSPs I bought - always liked the application process, but durability and water behavior was always a bit lacking, even then, and more so in comparison to today's products. Hyper-Seal seems to have great...

The cost difference is fairly significant. I’m not in the US, so prices will obviously differ, but over here 500ml (17 oz) of Carpro Eraser is around $20 (larger sizes are not available here). I can get a gallon of 70% IPA for $3.30, 2.5 gallons of distilled for $3.00, and 9oz of SLES for $0.80...

I haven’t seen the actual MSDS for Eraser myself, but over on Detailing World (UK detailing forum), someone posted the following: So at most 30% IPA, plus SLES as a surfactant, to help dissolve and emulsify as well as add lubrication. Based on this, I mixed up my own “homebrew” panel prep...

FK1000p is another mold-release product which had made a successful transition to alternative use in the detailing industry. Sent from my SM-N9005 using Tapatalk

Dodo Juice released some new products a few days ago (link to their announcement on their Facebook page here). One of them was another release on their independent wax label, named Chockwork Orange:

At the middle setting, it pulls in 4oz of solution for every gallon of water, right? Now, that 4 oz is mixed at 1:3, which means that of the 4 oz solution, 1 oz is shampoo, 3 oz is water. So you're basically pulling 1 oz of shampoo for every gallon (and 3 ounces) of water.

I'd still go for 915. It's just somewhat less durable than 476 - which means that it is in the upper echelon of non-coating products when it comes to durability - it looks good, has nice water behaviour, and is relatively inexpensive (32.99 for a 12oz can, which will last you a long, long time).

Here's an excerpt from the forum rules (there's a link at the bottom left of every forum page): It isn't enforced as strictly as it could be, as the mods seem to be fairly lenient about it, but yes, AGO should be a discussion forum only for products sold by AG.

Hmmm - never had that problem, but as Setec said, I did wash them first. Francis

Fair enough - but again, how many sprays were you using per panel? I've found that a lot of people tend to over-apply spray waxes - like I said, usually one spray, in a sweeping motion, per panel is sufficient - two for the roof. As you say, though, it could easily be the weather conditions -...