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Lots of advise but everyone will agree an original PC and 6.5" pads aren't going to make a dent in it unless you have superb technique. For spot repairs I'd go to a smaller pad like 4". 5.5" is good for all around work. Wet sanding would be my last resort. I'm fortunate to have several...

I haven't found much that the twins can't handle (105/205). Yellow pad and 105 is about as aggressive as it gets with foam. If the clear is soft that combination will induce swirls not remove them. I too would like to know what buffer your using. I have found most Fords to have hard clear but...

As Mike indicated many shops around the country are using water based paints and they are cured before delivery to the customer. They can be waxed right away. Even solvent based with a two week wait in warm weather you should be fine. Best thing to do in the future is ask the painter cause he...

Nice looking car and welcome to AGO. I've never used CG V40 but any polish will be fine with your PC. 5.5" hex pads are nive to work with. Start with a polishing pad first. Decontaminate the car with IronX then clay it for a smooth finish to polish on. Then wax her up and your good to go.

Looks great but 30 hours on a DD. Too much for me but you did outstanding work.

I bought a new car or rather a new car to me and the tips are in fair condition. I've used Flitz and 000/0000 steel wool with great success. If you have a powerball it can take all the elbow grease out of the polishing. Meguiars Degreaser and APC can also break down the crud if it's really...

Your best bet is take it to a reputable paint shop and see what they say. It's too hard to say from the pictures. You may just want to leave it be.

USMC 0302 Capt 2Bn5thMar 76-82 Semper Fi "it was a long time ago"

I've never seen anyone prime a pad with a brush before, definitely a different technique.

+1 CG Bare Bone

Subed can't find a good one.

Great results. Thanks for sharing.

I alway like to clay a car before putting a polisher on it. I still use clay vs all the new stuff. Seems I'll always do at least a light polish before waxing. One day I'll have to try the nano skin. I've done my fair share of complimentary details figuring what goes around comes around. $200...

Very underutilized tool in my arsenal maybe because I don't always fire up the air compressor. Your post got me thinking to break it out on the interior detail I'm planning tomorrow. I agree with 1:10 seems fine (APC & Folex).

I also like the extension and the 2" backing plate and small pads. Flat pads are fine. I use CCS and the hex to me they all are pretty good. The PE14 is just a great polisher. Hard to go wrong with it.

Fill the scratch with layers letting each dry until its alittle higher than the surrounding paint. Let it cure and lightly wet sand with 2000 or higher grit. Lightly compound and polish then wax it. Never found clear coating the repair that beneficial but doesn't hurt. Te clear will blend in...

No way would I pay for that. Sorry but for the reasons stated earlier it's painter error. Plain and simple. Either they fix it or refund your money that's just UGLY.

Dewalt is a great RB, bang for the buck and will last forever. Get yourself a junk yard panel for $30-$50 and practice. You should not get it to hot to touch if so let the paint cool. Composite bumpers melt the easiest always keep the pad moving and tape raised areas or stay off them until you...

I don't know about a sleeper that thing looks like it's doing 100mph standing there. Sweet detail job looks great!

Sounds about right to me for wash, clay, compound, polish and wax especially on a black car. To do it right you'd be hard pressed to do it much quicker. Spending more time on it is easy however.