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This is the first time this has happened to me. I was cleaning and claying a one year old Ford Fusion in pearl white. The car has been driven but the paint looked pretty good but when I felt it and looked closer into the paint I could see black specs. I clayed using my Meguiars clay bar an...

The paper towel probably micromared the paint that is why a microfiber and a QD was suggested. Regardless the area will probably need a re-polish anyways since the area was probably etched. It is most important to remove it however you can as quick as you can though since you do not want it to...

Did Wayne like the results, and did he leave with a box full of new detailing supplies?

I noticed you mentioned using the Air Force Blaster to blow dry your wifes car after washing and rinsing with the DI water. Why did you use the blower? Couldn't you eliminate that step since the DI water is supposed to dry spot free?

What about using distilled water or will that not work?

You tell them that is a better idea then the swirlamatics, but it still does not get all of the debris off of the car, wheels and tires are not cleaned and dressed properly, the car is not dried properly leading to water spots, and most of all they use very heavy detergents that may strip the...

Good thing using a test area! That truck has a lot of surface area so dial in your process first before going on. Make sure you clean your pads often if attempting to do the whole truck and take your time. If you get tired then finish off the sections you have completed with your wax or...

If you have Duragloss 501 I would add that to the mix for a single stage too. It cleans unbelievably. I would used your UC and then see if you needed to go down to the UP or 205 then I would use the Duragloss 501/601 combo (using the 4 parts 501 to 1 part 601 bombination) then don't wipe it...

I would use Ultimate Polish or Meg 205 prior to doing the 601/105 to seal it up. You need a finishing polish first most likely after the UC.

Looks fantastic! I am curious how do you charge on a detail like this-do you tell the client it is going to be an hourly charge or do you quote a price for the entire job estimating it will take you 3 days of hard work? Thanks

Too bad you do not have an orbital to use and are doing it by hand. With the products listed I would use the Duragloss and use a microfiber applicator. I would do the 501 & 601 with the 4:1 ratio using the microfiber applicator. Then I would top it with the 105 and 601 with teh 4:1 ratio...

Ask to go by the shop and see a car he completed in person in the sunlight-photos can be deceiving! Also if he is charging 80 bucks total and you subtract 5 dollars for materials he is only earning 75 dollars total for his labor-what do you think he earns per hour??? You do the math and see...

Is it safe on raw aluminum wheels? I had a problem with the belch-white staining raw aluminum a while back.

Is that in Los Angeles? The drinking water in Los Angeles is terribe to begin with so I am sure that the water used for irrigation is even worse. I am sure it is some recycled or less refined water especially since it is CA. Maybe contact one of the Los Angeles detailers like Joe at...

Great turn around on that car-I bet the client was Very happy! One suggestion-those red and yellow paint marks on the outside of the tire can be removed with a little brake cleaner sprayed onto a towel and rubbed off. I always think they stand out and look horrible. It only takes a minute.

501 is my favorite-works fantastic with a PC and the red hydrotech pads.

I have had luck using Poliseal on clear bra's with a mild pad like a LC white and a speed of 4 on a PC.

Acentone, light paint thinner, goof off, wd40

Poliseal and a DA work well on clear bra's and it leaves it protected.