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Ultima tire and trim guard is the best I have used but if that is not available meguiars ultimate protectant/ultimate black is good but not as durable. I find the trick to getting the best durability is to apply in thin coats (I use two coats) and be sure to remove any excess afterwards. I've...

Is a capful equal to an ounce?

If you were able to remove all the residue i wouldn't worry. As others have suggested just warm it up or shake it up next time and apply it thin.

:iagree: From my experience: DG 901>>Megs Gold Class>CG CWG/Megs Hyper Wash All very good shampoos though.

Good stuff. I had read the horror stories before I used 476 but I found but I found it easy to use as well.

:xyxthumbs:

Sorry, could you clarify something for me? After using the prep towel, the paint didnt pass the baggie test. Then: 1. Did you use the prep towel again and couldnt get the paint to pass the baggie test. But when you switched to clay the paint passed the test? Or 2 Did you switch to clay right...

The clay block isn't very new it was one of the first generations of clay alternatives and I don't think it has been updated since. Also the nanoskin sponge is cheaper so it makes more sense to get if you are only looking to test the product.

No problem. Does the sonax plus remove tar as well? If not I would go with trix. That makes sense but there is an aggressive nanoskin sponge as well. Just something to consider.

I have only used cwg and the clay block from chemical guys. With that said I would lose the rim sealant and any other exterior trim dressings and get ultima tire and trim or wolfgang exterior trim sealant instead. I would also get the nanoskin fine grade sponge rather than the chemical guys...

If you use the gary dean method you will only use probably 1/2 gallon of solution. Add a well priced no rinse product to that and it will cost you much less than a traditional wash. Onr/DG/Meguiars With the gdm you have to invest in some towels though. Maybe with the gdm you can cut the time...

:laughing:

:props:

So do you think it performs any better than an apc for cleaning trim?

I'm not sure I agree with you. Maybe ironx requires more precautions when using (relative to claying) but that doesn't necessarily mean it is toxic. But I agree that you it isn't essential, and although it usually makes claying easier you can get by with claying alone.

Thank you that's good to know. Have you used uttg before this bottle? If so, did you notice any difference in the performance of the affected bottle?

Some people pre soak with diluted car shampoo in a spray bottle or in a foam gun. Some people also use rinseless/waterless wash as a pre soak. There are also dedicated products for this p21s total auto wash is one I can think of, never used it though. As far as i know it's Wash -> Ironx ->...

I'll give it another try but I have had products separate before and this does not seem to be the case.

These should help: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-topics-frequently-asked-questions/21283-togw-other-guy-s-wax.html http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/56556-removing-other-guy-s-wax.html You can search for threads about "the other guy's wax"

Thanks for your response. I just checked, I couldn't see any holes and when I squeezed the closed bottle no air was escaping.