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I think the Dr Colorchip is good for noobies- but someone like you Garry should be using something more professional. As a paint guy, I can give you a system that works and will get rid of your chip-completely. Now, this is for bigger chips- little dots, divots I think the Dr CChip is decent...

Thanks for your recommendations! I plan on updating this thread as soon as my new Menz stuff gets here. :props:

Thanks for the in-depth write up Bobby. I have ordered the stuff you (and Heavy) recommended. I did not break thru the clear anywhere- I actually am a certified PPG/DuPont refinisher so I'm fairly knowledgeable about clear coat and paint systems. Obviously, I'm not a professional detailer...

Ahhh..got ya. I probably looked at the wrong polish. Menz is getting like 3M..I remember the good ole days when 3M had about 6-8 polishes and 2-3 pads. Now they have 6-8 swirl removers, 4-5 final polishes, and about 10 different buffing pads. :xyxthumbs:

Please see my post above.

Because thats all the RPM's I needed to remove the defect. The idea is to not heat up the paint- less is better. You want just enough heat to soften the paint so that the polish works to 100% of its cutting ability..then back off the speed so that the heat dissappates and the remaining abrasives...

I don't find the clear hard at all on my Vette, unless it just SO HARD that the markings on the car were simply laying on the surface. I literally took 15 seconds to remove the light scratching using 3M swirl remover and a black pad on my 849.They are gone..not filled in, but GONE. I have...

Sure..I can try that!

Thanks Heavy..I think you are right..I believe I have the wrong stuff, no matter who's fault it is. Now, the big question is..what do I need? the PO85RD? PO83? Or the PO203?? I have some light hazing/marks in the car finish, mostly on the sides, and my preference is to not take a rotary to...

Thanks for the reply, and sorry for the confusion. I'm looking back thru my order, and I believe I either ordered the wrong stuff, or I was sent the wrong stuff. I have written down PO203..but the bottle I have "looks" like S34A..which is for removing 1500 grit scratches. The other bottle...

First off, I'm an expert with a rotary..just learning the D/A side of things. I'm working on my new 2011 Black Z06..so I ordered up some nice goodies from Autogeek. No pics right now, but I may add some as I get info flowing in. New Griots D/A, 5" backing plate, various 5" LC pads, Menzerna...

I have had great luck with both WD40 (left to soak for up to a day) and on the aggressive side..medium speed automotive reducer. Reducer WILL work in taking off the sap..but as it seems you are a newbie, I'm not sure I would recommend going that route.

Tom- Appreciate the detailed response. I am split on the Flex and Griot- simply because 300 bucks is a wad of cash to throw at a machine that limits you to DA'ing with the common foam pads. I was leaning toward the Griot since it would allow me to use the MF system (if I wanted), but also...

Thanks for the reply. To be honest, I'm not all that impressed with my Porter Cable DA. To be fair, I only have 1 white pad, and 1 black pad to use with it. My cars don't have major defects, so I'm not in a position to say much- but I will say that I can jewel the paint with a rotary without...

Man..so much info on this system, but no clearcut answers. I just purchased a new Z06..black. Thank gawd, its only been in the showroom, and none of the dealership clowns put a buffer on it. It does, however have the usual micro-marring from washing, dusting, etc. I am very skilled with a...

Thanks for the info! Its my understanding the 7424 doesn't do a great job with these harder clearcoats. I have no problem using the rotary, but if I can get the paint looking good by using the Flex..wouldn't I be ahead? Meaning, I know I can get a nice finish with the rotary, but to make...

Hey everyone New to the forum, but not new to using a buffer, PC etc. I just picked up a new 2011 black Z06. Its never been buffed or waxed that I know of, but it does have the typical marks of repeated washings that happen when the dealers clean their cars. mostly fine, spider web type...