Search results

I use BF All Metal Sealant or Coll845. I haven't tried any of the coatings yet, but plan to soon.

I'd probably go with Desetnate's reply. I had this issue last fall when I put on Coll845 on my own car. Got it way to heavy that time for some reason (I think I was just in too much of a hurry). My roof always looked hazy and parts of my hood did too. I've switched to a crimson 4" HT pad for...

Have you already purchased the WG? If not, then get BF Wet Diamond All Finish Paint Protection and BF Rinseless Wash. I would recommend BFMSID as a drying aid after 2BM. Use the BFPS after a rinseless wash. BFMSID attracts more dust.

Not Bill, but that's okay. :laughing: I have some 530's I got off Ebay that don't feel like the 530's I get from MFT. So I put those on compound removal duty. I use my good ones from MFT when it comes to polish and LSP removal.

I use my LC backing plates. No issues.

If you want to get more longevity out of BFWD, put 2 coats of BFCS on top (12+ hours after BFWD and 1 hour in between BFCS coats). Then wait another 24 hours and you can add the wax on.

Sounds like the bumper has been repainted (and may be repainted again)? If so, I would wait 30 days to put a sealant on that portion (ask the shop what the complete cure time is).

Setec is spot on. If you have another car, do it first and show her how good it comes out. This is a good way to practice also. I was in a similar situation except that I didn't want to do my own brand new car until I figured out what I was doing, so I "practiced" on my two older cars first.

Agree that I don't think you need to sand. By hand you can try something like ScratchX or Ultimate Compound. If you have a polisher, I would start with a polish first (Ultimate Polish, M205, etc) As far as where the scratches came from, you likely loosened whatever you were trying to get off...

Microrestore. Only need an ounce for most loads so that is 128 loads per gallon. I'm a weekend warrior though (sounds like maybe you are too) so most of my loads are small. I'll have a medium load from time to time when I do an actual full detail so I'll use 1.5-2 oz. for those loads. I...

Very good point here!

I use my better 530 gsm towels.

appears to be some kind of paint failure there.

What products and machine did you use? Looks like a hologram to the Northeast. Did you use a rotary? Still though, major improvement. One nice thing about soft honda paint.

This one. Has all the fittings and the bottle. http://www.amazon.com/AR-Blue-Clean-Foamer-Fittings/dp/B00JS9MEJO/ref=pd_sim_lg_4?ie=UTF8&refRID=0CM1D456Z1Q6YT6J54VY

Fabric Clean works well but is a pain in the a$$ to extract because it foams so much. I only use it on carpeted mats that I can rinse with a hose (rubber/plastic backed). For everything else I use Lightning Fast. I would guess it is similar to Folex but it dilutes 1:20 and at $10 for 16 oz...

Another lesson. Don't let someone hurry you into making an error in judgement. Personally, one thing I don't do is let someone tell me how long I have to do a job. I estimate time for them and usually try to overshoot by a couple hours, which means I might have it back to them early. Again...

I just did an E550 last weekend. Paint was pretty good but minor swirls from carwashes. It was not cerami-clear paint. I used Menzerna PF2500 and a white LC 5.5" flat pad. GG6 on speed 4.5. Four passes with decent downward pressure followed by 2 lighter passes to finish the buffing cycle...

wonder how it compares to Folex at $13 per gallon and CG Lightning Fast at $3.85 per gallon?

Get the 5" backing plate. If you haven't used a polisher before, there is no harm in starting out with the 6" backing plate and 6.5" pads. I use the 5.5" lake country flat pads. I use 4" hydrotech crimson for applying sealant. You also need a 3.5" backing plate if you decide to use 4"...