Search results

The oils are filling. The trouble is that it is now tough to identify how sensitive a sealant is to the surface. Many products which are insensitive to a bit of contamination insist on total cleanliness. This then can lead to people being insufficiently careful when they should be.

I am still around, but not often! It actually is great to see that this all stuck with you guys! One of the reasons I stopped posting so much was that these attempts to educate, on the UK forum scene, resulted in outright unpleasantness. Suffice it to say, many UK detailers are still stuck with...

The thioglycolate ions in the products bind on to the iron, which is otherwise insoluble in water, and form a complex which is water soluble (and happens to be purple). So this does the dissolving and the colour change, if there is no iron or none dissolved, there is no colour change and...

Whilst the forensic detailing video was interesting, the guy doing it is not a chemist and I recall several questionable bits of technical info. The reality is that the purple compound you see is always the same, irrelevant of the product. Depending on the initial form of the active ingredient...

Thanks! Just popping my head in to get a feel for any new trends!

You and me both. We have a, genuine, silica/water based product. Cost price probably $10 per litre (that’s our manufactured cost, no brand prifit, no retailer profit- so probably only 10-20% of the cost you guys would pay). It has a tiny amount of silica in it, it only needs a tiny amount...

Riddle me this... When did you last see proof of the second called 'maintenance' products boosting protection? Assuming the coating actually is a coating (some, in my view, claim to be coatings yet look much more like sealants), it will have something fairly clever going on with chemistry...

I should point out that if you are a European customer, any supplier would potentially be breaking the law to refuse an MSDS. Any manufacturer refusing to supply safety data sheets needs a kick in the butt. Most of the time they do so in the belief that it protects their IP but this is a...

A glaze really should have non-volatile oils in it and it should very intentionally leave something behind. If it has abrasives, it would certainly also be a polish. It could have wax or polymers, in which case it could then be a sealant/wax. If it has multiples of these things, it could be an...

Evening all. Nice topic. To anyone who thinks that their simple wash solution will strip thick wax films and cured and crosslinked polymers... what about your hands? These things you are stripping are like the oils in your skin but more crosslinked and even bonded to the paint. Just being really...

There are a bunch of factors which mean that this may or may not be the case. For example, a very large number of sealant type products are excellent at repelling water but are in fact oleophillic. What this means is they repel water but oils stick. If you were to spray oil onto the paint, it...

Sorry but that is not beading and sheeting. That is beading and less beading. I know that I am flogging a dead horse with this but everything posted so far is beading. If you spray a water mist onto the surface you will see beads. That is beading! Hydrophobic surface gives beads. The only...

My company is a manufacturer of automotive products, based in the UK. The information I gave is very well known to anyone who would formulate products in this sector.

Swanic mostly has it. Quite simply, the DUB product has significantly less of the active ingredient and it has it in a form which is significantly less suited for the application (aka it dries out too quickly). As swanic says, IX is very poor at breaking down traffic films and such, so it is...

As a spanner for your collective works.... the majority of wash and 'wax' products contain no wax at all. The majority simply use surface modifying surfactants which temporarily adhere to the surface and give water beading. Unfortunately, this is the norm and I would hazard to suggest that most...

Of course the counter argument is that applying to a dry surface means that the product cannot (as you say) run off. If the liquid does not run off, the dirt does not go with it and (particularly in warm weather) you can end up with the whole lot drying in place before you wash it off. This is...

Oh and more to the point of the thread... Cleaning is predominantly driven by how effectively you 'wet' the soil you are attempting to remove. If you wet it adequately, you are most of the way to removing it. This is what you would learn in cleaning 101. So it follows that wetting the surface...

As a chemist/manufacturer, I would never recommend all this mixing. Very quickly - you are compromising IXSS with the high pH you are producing. You are wasting money because your ISXX and degreaser/APC/Bug wash all have similar ingredients which you are duplicating. APC and degreaser can...

I have argued on this topic before. A lot comes down to the specifics of the product. In many instances, products simply do not layer. You could apply them all year and the thickness of the layer will simply not increase. That is a chemical reality and is a genuine attribute of certain products...

Until I see a genuine exception otherwise - yes. Lets say that anyone who can succeed otherwise is wasting their time posting on here as there are billions to be made in other markets, with such IP.