1931 Auburn

Up-date:

Started the Auburn project yesterday. Yesterday, I examined the car and created a full assessment, pre-existing problems and recommendations report. I will have few days to do the detail. The primary focus will be just the paint.

Did a few test spots by hand using waterless wash, and the whole line Rupes polishes. Lucky for me---it is a basecoat/clear coat paint. Did some rubbing by hand and the paint is hard and has "deep" dirt in the paint. Will do few more tests with the polisher over the weekend.

Today: Did the rinse less wash and cleaned the wheels. Covered the car with a thin white sheet---18 feet x 10 feet. Won't be getting back to it till Sunday.

Next will be to clay and tape up the car. I probably will take me around 3 days to polish her out. Hope to be done by Tuesday. Going on vacation Thursday.

Will add some pics tomorrow. Computer is giving me fits and it's late.

Tom
 
First picture was before the rinse less and the second after.
Product: McKee's N914
 
Tires---before and after.
Product: Tuff Shine
 
Looking good mate. :props:

Wow! Tuff Shine worked a treat on the tyres huh. Nice! No hood treatment then? Paint only am I correct? I think this beauty is going to turn out looking very nice indeed. Thanks for the update TMQ. :xyxthumbs:

Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
 
Test spot. This was done by hand. I didn't have my polisher with me at the time. Just wanted to make sure it was basecoat/clear coat and to get a feel of how hard or soft the paint was.

Product: Rupes Keramik/Yellow and Diamond/white on left side
Rupes Zepnir/blue and Diamond/white on right side
 
Tires---before and after,

I could not get this post deleted.
Just a double post here.

Disregard this one!

Sorry,

Tom
 
Pin stripes are under clear. But what if certain areas might just have a touch up here and there?
Checked every inch of the car for any evidence of "touch up" work on scratches and chips. There are none!!!
Just to be sure and a peace of mind---I will tape the stripes with thin vinyl tape.
 
TMQ said:
Test spot. This was done by hand. I didn't have my polisher with me at the time. Just wanted to make sure it was basecoat/clear coat and to get a feel of how hard or soft the paint was.

Product: Rupes Keramik/Yellow and Diamond/white on left side
Rupes Zepnir/blue and Diamond/white on right side
Click to expand...

Oh...this not clear to me. What I meant was left side and right side of tape line. Not the photos! I used a wide blue tape---3 maybe 4 inch tape.
In first pictures: right side of line. This was course compound/Zepnir/blue finished out with ultra fine/Diamond/white
In second picture: This is the left side of tape line. Not a very good shot. Used Yellow/Keramik fine polish and finished out with the ultra fine polish/Diamond/White
 
TMQ said:
Test spot. This was done by hand. I didn't have my polisher with me at the time. Just wanted to make sure it was basecoat/clear coat and to get a feel of how hard or soft the paint was.

Product: Rupes Keramik/Yellow and Diamond/white on left side
Rupes Zepnir/blue and Diamond/white on right side
Click to expand...

Oh...this not clear to me. What I meant was left side and right side of tape line. Not the photos! I used a wide blue tape---3 maybe 4 inch tape.
In first pictures: right side of line. This was course compound/Zepnir/blue finished out with ultra fine/Diamond/white
In second picture: This is the left side of tape line. Not a very good shot. Used Yellow/Keramik fine polish and finished out with the ultra fine polish/Diamond/White
 
Thanks for the updates, Tom! I am following along with you on this project with excitement.

I realize your test spots were by hand but how did you find the paint to be "workability" wise?
 
Paul A. said:
Thanks for the updates, Tom! I am following along with you on this project with excitement.

I realize your test spots were by hand but how did you find the paint to be "workability" wise?
Click to expand...

Hummm....With polisher, gut feeling paint will be right down the middle. Not too hard nor soft. I think paint will be a breeze! Fingers crossed!

By hand---AIO hardly put a dent in the paint. With mid-grade polish and compound. Finally was able to remove scratches and bring out some shine. Come Sunday I will know exactly what I need to use.

Tom
 
TMQ said:
In over my head? Not really. Just gonna take more time, lots of curves, pin striping etc.

More on prep work than the actual polishing itself.

Thought be a hoot if you guys want an "Internet project" and contribute in a way. But no---task is very doable. If you think about it, not much different between a family driver and a
classic car. Both respond to a polish the same way. (Of course---depending on testing.) Will be doing extra testing just to be certain.


Bottom line---bring the experience and a dose of basic common sense to the task and one should be fine.
Click to expand...

Well said and I agree.



TMQ said:
Believe me---I would not do it if I felt unsure of any of the tasks ahead.

And this is a Biggie---The Competition Ready class.

This alone made the world of difference!

Without this---I would've never been able to comprehend polishing an Auburn!

But now---no biggie.

Just gonna take more time, some thinking, series of small testing and the use of proper abrasives to the task.

Sorry---didn't mean to ramble on!

Tom
Click to expand...


Tom - it was a genuine pleasure having you attend our 3-day class here in Stuart, Florida. More than that, I love how you've become an active participating member of our forum inspiring others to follow in your footsteps.

Your threads and posts on this forum are always positive and helpful and I for one really appreciate it. You are an alumni member of an elite group of detailers and that's some bragging rights others don't have.


Pictures & Comments from the February 2017 Competition Ready Detailing Class!


This is Tom from Germantown, Maryland about 1000 miles from Stuart, Florida one way

CR_2017_Feb_029.JPG






This is Tom aka TMQ on the AGO forum

Tom was our hearing impaired student for which we brought in professional signers so he understand the information being taught and take his knowledge and skills to a higher level.

CR_2017_Feb_080.JPG





Thank you so much for your trust Tom and attending our class and thank you for your continued participation on this forum sharing with others.


I rarely use the bow down emoticon...


:bowdown:



:dblthumb2:
 
Also just to note....


Cleaning and protecting convertible tops on cars that you don't wash is a challenge.

At some point each of us has to make the decision to wash or not to wash a classic car in order to correctly flush the dirt out of the weave of the top to follow the normal protocol of cleaning before protecting.


For situation where you cannot wash and flush a convertible top and specifically a cloth or canvas top, then the next best thing is to both vacuum and if you have compressed our, blow-out the weave of the top and then use a lint roller to remove stray fibers and debris attached to the top.

After that go ahead and apply the RaggTopp protectant because it WILL restore a deeper, darker appearance and this adds to the overall beauty of the finished work.


For those that can was a car and thus wash the top here's my write-up on how to do this.


NEW Haartz/RaggTopp Convertible Top Brush - How to clean and protect a convertible top


And here's the key technique for the application of the protectant - wear gloves and work the protectant into the weave, don't just let it sit on the top like dew.


Dew appearance

watermark.php


watermark.php



Finished...

watermark.php




:)
 
Tom...


I'm taking off for Orlando in a few minutes, when I get back next week I'll download all your pictures and then upload them to your gallery and re-insert them so they make the full impact of this incredible project you're undertaking.


And have fun on your vacation!


:)
 
Saturday---Clayed and testing.

Settled on Rupes blue/blue and finished out with white/white. Paint was diamond hard! Hardest I've ever seen and was not thrilled with results---felt I could have gotten a bit more. Had a hard time with Rupes blue pad---grabby, stalling and tons of dirt and dust. I was kind of surprised that it would do that. This was my fav set-up. Now it wasn't worth a darn!

Tested a few combinations and completed the rear upper deck. Rupes blue/blue, white/white and P808 sealant.
 
I will post today's results (Sunday) Later.

Today was much, much better! and very happy with the results. Did a couple of testing and came up with another plan.
The whole front end of the car is done. Radiator cover/hood/ cowl/fenders are done! Tomorrow will be a breeze. (easy)

Kind of late right now and I'm beat.

I still have about a day and half to go on the car then I'm going to the outer banks of a bit of R&R.

Tom
 
On Sunday: Completed front end.

I wasn't too thrilled with the Rupes blue/blue and white/white. Thought need just a tad more cut.

I've used Rupes UHS in past and thought it didn't have much cut. Came back to forum and got info how to use properly.
6 beads on outer edge of pad, Speed 2 at one spot for 30 seconds, then 2 spots after each section. Worked perfectly! Now I see what the fuss was all about.
This has much more cut than the Rupes blue/blue on very hard diamond like paint! No dust at all! Rupes was happy at speed 4 or 4 1/2.
Did about 4 or sometimes at certain spots 6 section passes. Beautiful! Could've stop here. But going in for the kill---finished off with Rupes white on white. Perfection!!!

I was very happy with the feel, the cut, and the results! Now this is what a good, artsy polishing should feel like.
 
Looking great Tom. :props:

Nice adjustment with the process, sure looks like it done the trick & made life easier at the same time. Enjoy your down time buddy, thank you for the update. :xyxthumbs:

Aaryn NZ. :dblthumb2:
 
Sorry about pictures are not orderly...

Anyway---better than none!
 
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