1957 Chevrolet Bel Air - Remove Swirls - Modeled by Kristin
- Thread starter Mike Phillips
- Start date
M
mclovin
Guest
Man I'm upset I couldn't stay and help finish up that Bel Air. Turned out great. Next time though and hopefully a better car!
M
mclovin
Guest
Yeah no picture of me :awman: There's always another day and I'll be willing to give a helping hand any time. Thanks for inviting me yesterday Mike.Thank you to everyone that welcomed Kristin to our forum... time to shut down the Autogeek Studio for the night but I'll post the process and after picture tomorrow... until then here's some shots of Kristin wiping off some smudges, inspecting our work and showcasing the Dodo Juice Orange Crush Wax.
Oh yeah... here's the Transformation Team!
From left to right...
Kyle, Rene, Adam and PJ
Thank you Kristin for helping out tonight you did a great job!
Also a huge thank you to Kyle, Rene, Adam, PJ and no pictured is Hector who had to leave early...
More pictures of the process used to create a show car finish on this classic, 1957 Chevrolet Bel Air...
M
mclovin
Guest
Hey Mike I was just curious, did the whole car have single stage paint on it or was it just some sections. I remember you getting some red on the pad right before I left and PJ said he felt a difference between the paint in certain areas.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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- #45
The entire car was single stage paint.
If you're a car enthusiast, especially someone into detailing, having the opportunity to buff out a classic car with single stage paint is a real treat.
I'm getting ready to post the process pictures followed by some after shots that will really show the full richness of color in the paint and the wet, glossy appearance.
M
mclovin
Guest
Oh OK. How about that over spray that was on the drivers side door, on the lower panel. Did you guys mange to fix that?
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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- #47
There was paint overspray all over the car, just goes to show that even a classic car that to most people looks great can still use a little TLC
There was overspray and there was some paint blistering, which can only be fixed by re-spraying the car or the affected panel.
After we polished and waxed the car you have to look for it to find it as the paint is so shiny your eyes just can't see it unless you get down low and at the right angle.
I'm adding pictures to the first page of this thread showing our process...
The contaminants you see on the clay came from just a small section of paint on the hood. If you look closely you can see a tint of red on the clay and this is overspray paint...
2old2change
New member
- Jan 3, 2007
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What kind of car would you want to detail ? Just call me curious.
Mike would the new CarPro Iron X Remover helped before claying on that single stage paint ?
M
mclovin
Guest
The contaminants you see on the clay came from just a small section of paint on the hood. If you look closely you can see a tint of red on the clay and this is overspray paint...
[/QUOTE]
Wow. There's was some coming of the passenger side lower panels as well when I was claying that side but not as much as that small portion you did.
[/QUOTE]Wow. There's was some coming of the passenger side lower panels as well when I was claying that side but not as much as that small portion you did.
Here's Adam sharing his secret technique for cleaning pads if you don't have a pad washer.
That's hilarious! :laughing:
Hey can all my forum friends help me to give Kristin an Autogeek warm welcome?
(Yes, that's an encouragement to reply to this thread)
I've created a temporary Avatar for her and after tonight's project I'll update it with a picture from this 1957 Chevy Extreme Makeover project.
Umm...hello and welcome :drool:
:wow: that's it, time to move to Florida Im the MAN
M
mclovin
Guest
Honestly I'm not sure. I'm not saying that the Bel Air was not a good car, it was actually great and I was actually looking forward to detailing it because it was single staged. I would love to help Mike detail that Ferrari I heard he was bringing in or even another classic.
M
mclovin
Guest
I don't think it could. Correct me if I'm wrong Mike, but shouldn't the CarPro Iron X Remover only be hitting Iron, such as clear coats or wheels that are not chrome or metal? Or is it fine for it to be hitting that single staged paint?
CEE DOG
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- Jul 12, 2009
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According to CarPro Iron X is safe on single stage paint as well as clear coats. As long as there are no super deep scratches that cut all the way through it the paint you are fine.
Iron X is very safe on paint. It only reacts with Iron particles. :dblthumb2:
M
mclovin
Guest
Oh OK. I pretty new to this so I don't know that much but I'm getting there. Now I know. I stand corrected!
2old2change
New member
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Thanks Corey. I was thinking clear coat is just paint with no pigment. Did you mean all the way through to the metal ? The reason for my original question to Mike was wondering if Iron-X would have saved some of the clay.
CEE DOG
New member
- Jul 12, 2009
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Thanks guys, :dblthumb2:
Yeah, I meant if the scratch is completely through the paint that is the only way the iron x can react with something you don't want it to react with since it only attacks ferrous metals (iron). Otherwise it simply dissolves and removes all the unwanted iron particles like brake dust, rail dust, etc from the paint.
As you can imagine I don't see many single stage paints so I haven't used Iron X on ss (full disclosure). Just passing on what I know CarPro has said publicly on the forums before.
If there was iron on that car then it would definitely help with the clay time. Car is clayed a good bit faster and the clay comes out less contaminated after Iron X. Also the iron is dissolved rather than shaved off the surface.
Having said that I might guess Mike didn't want to use anything in his studio that is better off being used outside or with good ventilation.
Yeah, I meant if the scratch is completely through the paint that is the only way the iron x can react with something you don't want it to react with since it only attacks ferrous metals (iron). Otherwise it simply dissolves and removes all the unwanted iron particles like brake dust, rail dust, etc from the paint.
As you can imagine I don't see many single stage paints so I haven't used Iron X on ss (full disclosure). Just passing on what I know CarPro has said publicly on the forums before.
If there was iron on that car then it would definitely help with the clay time. Car is clayed a good bit faster and the clay comes out less contaminated after Iron X. Also the iron is dissolved rather than shaved off the surface.
Having said that I might guess Mike didn't want to use anything in his studio that is better off being used outside or with good ventilation.
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
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- #58
IF you read the first page I kind of answer this question in post #2 I answer this question. I've been adding the process pictures and text to this project as it can't be done on the fly as you're actually working on the car.
Mike Phillips said:
Note: Anytime you're working on an antique, classic or rare special interest car it's a good best practice to avoid washing the car using a normal car wash as you will introduce water to places you cannot reach and dry and this can promote rust. Instead use a Waterless Wash to carefully wipe the paint and exterior clean.
Since IronX should be rinsed off the car and I don't as a practice wash classic and antique cars due to the rust issue, I wouldn't spray something on that has to be rinsed off.
Take my word for it... claying and machine polishing worked plenty well and the car looks absolutely fabulous with a coat of the Dodo Juice Orange Crush on it.
Great question though...
:xyxthumbs:
