1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown!

Wow Mike, another fantastic epic post from the training department. That Chevy looks transformed, I am sure the owner was floored.

As someone looking to move to a polisher, you do bring some interesting questions to the table.

Also liked the feedback on the new pads. Thanks for taking a fantastic enthusiast forum (my favorite) to another level.
 
Great job on a great looking car! :dblthumb2: Looks like the bumpers are painted instead of chrome.
 
Excellent information for a weekend warrior like myself :buffing: and a great learning aid. :props:

Now all that is needed is a good sale on the Flex 3401 so that I can no longer resist temptation and buy one. :poke: :D
 
Bunky said:
Mike, how did you polish the smaller sections (roof pillars, etc) with the flex or did you do these by hand.
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Dalton Blevins did locate the answer and post it,

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
I used the pad on edge for tight areas and for thin panels, this can be a tad on the risky side so be sure of your purpose first and your grip second and make sure you have plenty of product on the surface for good lubrication. I would not recommend this practice to anyone and instead switch to a tool that offers a smaller pad.
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But I'll add a little more...

First of all, because there's no clutch and thus no slippage, when you use only the edge of a buffing pad on this type of tool it bounces or hops, not sure there's a better way to describe it and it's not a comfortable feeling, that's why I specifically wrote this,

I would not recommend this practice to anyone and instead switch to a tool that offers a smaller pad.
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Besides that, keep in mind two other things,

1. Because small thin panels of paint are hard to buff out with any tool these area you mention were not swirled out like the big easy to buff section, thus they didn't need any serious correction.

2. This is a single stage paint and I found a couple of thin spots on raised body lines, one area was around the windows, upon seeing this I only used the finishing glaze to machine polish these areas and it was very little time invested at that.

And your guess was correct that besides doing a really good job of claying the paint, the trim and the glass in these sections I also rubbed them out by hand with the Deep Gloss Paint Sealant, so in the end these sections because they were not hacked up with a rotary buffer to start with didn't need a lot of 'touching' to bring up the gloss but with the multiple times they were touched it it created results that matched the gloss of the rest of the paint.

Major on the majors, minor on the minors, that means major, (do a great job), on the major panels, the sections that get all the eye attention, and minor, (work on them but don't make them the focus when the problems lie elsewhere), on the minors.

In a perfect world, this would have been sanded and buffed before any trim went on.

Good question.

:)
 
Fine work Mike! Your write ups are the best!!! I feel that I'm working along side you and gaining knowledge and experience to draw on!! Oh yeah, and I'm not sweating like a pig doing it. :props:
 
Good show Mike, the paint looks very very glossy. Another great write-up.:xyxthumbs:
 
Thank you so much, Mike, for such a thorough and well-written review. I've been eager to know your thoughts on the Wolfgang system. Fortunately, you're comments have put my mind at ease:
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Wolfgang Paint Polishing System
The Wolfgang Paint Polishing System is a Bubba-proof multi-step system that is well suited for restoring most daily drivers from neglected condition to excellent condition.
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That's exactly what brought me to AG; I have a beautiful new car that I drive every day. Being such a Bubba-noob, my first concerned is making sure I don't mess up my good paint with poor products and habits. I'm happy to have "found something I like that I use often" that also seems to have met with your approval. Thanks again for sharing all of your knowledge and experience! :urtheman:
 
Awesome work Mike & Very Intelligent & well thought out post as you always do . Thank you for sharing your exprience with us :props::xyxthumbs:
 
Outstanding and instructive write-up, Mike. Thanks for sharing it with us. :cheers:
 
First of all, amazing detail and write-up Mike. I learned alot just reading through the picture quotes. At the same time, I hate you, because it makes me want to spend so much more money to buy the products you mentioned!

Now I see why you're so highly regarded. Absolutely amazing job and your step-by-step detail is fantastic.
 
This is amazing! WOW!!!

What else can I say, this writeup is so detailed it's amazing!

I always like reading writeups like this because I feel as though I'm there trialling the products with you. :xyxthumbs:
 
Reading an watching what the process was, why it was done this way then showing how this very informative thread covering an assortment of topics should become the first Sticky in Show N’ Shine IMHO. :dblthumb2:

Thank You Mike.
 
Truely Mike, YOU ARE THE REAL DEAL.
Great write up and explanations on technique and processes. Really appreciate the tips on some encountered observations. With tools and products. I'll be looking for your post.Thanks Again!
 
This thread is just brilliant in everyway!! Now I really want that buffer :buffing:
 
Mike, you said that one could use a larger work area with the flex (something larger than 2x2). What would you say is the optimum size?
 
Great thread, Mike. Regardless of the Forum your info is comprehensive and thorough. You sir, have taught me a lot! Thanks!

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
The tiny craters or pin holes you see are more than likely what' called Solvent Popping, which occurred when the paint was sprayed. These pin holes are actually present on the before side except because there are so many swirls in the before side, the swirls hide the solvent popping pin holes.

No amount of buffing will remove solvent popping because the holes are throughout the layer of paint, not just on the surface. Compounding and polishing more and more will just remove more paint and reveal a greater depth of the pin holes, it won't make the problem go away.
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There's the answer to a long-time vexing issue. My GFs black Hyundai Tucson has those almost invisible pinholes all over the hood and top of the fenders. Only way you can see 'em is to look real close under the Xenon lights. Since the rest of the vehicle is without them should I suspect a respray or is it possible it may have came that way from the factory? There's none of the other telltale signs of a respray but the front end is a bit more susceptable to chipping than the rest of the vehicle seems to be. :::::shrug::::

Wish I woulda seen this thread before I tried picking up a bead with the Flex for the first time. I was so darn proud of my ability to pick up a bead of polish with a rotary after watching one of your videos I naturally used the same method with the Flex...... BEFORE realizing it was spinning the opposite direction! Kinda tough cleaning M105 off the walls in my garage :laughing:

Goin' from that dry SoCal desert air to the Sweat Coast endangers your precious bodily fluids, huh?

TL
 
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