1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 28,948 Original Miles

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 28,948 Original Miles

This is such a creampuff...

 

[Flash Gordon]

Yes, a beautiful garage queen indeed :cheers:

 

[dad07]

Thats a looker there Mike!

 

[Stittville Ed]

Great car
I had a new red 69 442
Great fun at the local drag strips

 

[david79z28]

WOW!! Nice survivor.... Do you have any more pictures??

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Wow... I'm jealous! The 70-72 Cutlass' and other A-bodies of those years are by far some of my favorite muscle cars of the era.

Check the cowl tag on it if you can, if it says LAN on it, it was built in the plant my grandfather would have been working in at the time.

 

[SeaJay's]

The 60's and 70's olds cutlass and 442 are by far my favorite classic cars! That's a beauty right there.

 

[Joe@Superior Shine]

Love the car, the low miles.......... but that color!! YUCK!

 

[IID]

1970 Oldsmobile Cutlass - 28,948 Original Miles

This is such a creampuff...

Nice Cutlass,looks great! Is it Rocket powered?

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Nice Cutlass,looks great! Is it Rocket powered?

If it's all original it's probably got a Rocket 350 with a 2bbl carb under the hood mated to a TH350 trans. rops:

From what I can see it's probably actually a "Cutlass Holiday Coupe" outfitted with SS-II wheels.

 

[Dr Oldz]

Gotta watch you head when the hood is open ....that tooth bites!!! NICE ride!!!

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Gotta watch you head when the hood is open ....that tooth bites!!! NICE ride!!!

Here's the tooth Dr Oldz is talking about, it's the design of the hood that makes it look like it has one big tooth protruding downward and if you don't pay attention when working under the hood you can catch the back of your head on it...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

This car will be part of an extreme makeover, the owner wants to sell it so we're going to try to show what a little detailing work can do to maximize the appearance value of the car to reduce the time on the market and maximize the resale value...


Charlie mentioned the motor and yes it is the 350 with the 2 Barrel Carburetor

Found a new beach towel over the weekend with a horizontal picture instead of a vertical picture to cover the windshield...

This is the original vinyl top and it's in dire need of some gentle cleaning, conditioning and protection.

Front fender, and wheels...

All the chrome trim and script is in excellent condition and the best news of all... no pebble textured black plastic trim...

Amazingly there is no compound splatter slung down the fresh air vents on the hood and we'll be covering these so we don't be the first to create ugly... see this article...

Tape it off and avoid a lifetime of ugly...

If you look to where the overhead florescent lights are reflecting on the paint you can see where the Orange Peel was not completely sanded off and the sanding marks were not completely buffed out of the paint.

The car was repainted by the previous owner and one thing I always say goes like this,

"It's the person that does the wet-sanding, cutting and buffing that makes or breaks the paint job" -Mike Phillips

You can hire the best painter in the world, but it's the person that does the wetsanding, cutting and buffing that has control over the final, end-results.

It's easy to make the surface look shiny, the real deal is removing all of your sanding marks...

Same thing here, the paint was sanded by hand, there are sanding marks and deeper Tracers everywhere in the paint.

Here's a close-up of the same location seen above, note the sanding marks left everywhere in the paint...

Here's the passenger's side of the trunk lid, same thing back here, sanding marks everywhere in the paint, deeper Tracers and lots of orange peel where only the tops were knocked off...

I have an article called The Rule of Thumb

In it I explain that normally you only sand where you can SAFELY machine compound. That means staying about a 1/2 inch or so away from edges because to bring an aggressive wool pad on a rotary buffer with an aggressive compound down onto the paint and buff long enough to remove all the sanding marks you risk burning through edges and hard body lines.

Looks like the guy that did the sanding on this car uses the Rule of Thumb.

There are numerous places on this car where it looks like the person doing the buffing held a wool pad on a rotary buffer in one place on the paint and left uniform circles of swirls behind. Weird.

Here's rotary buffer swirls and a deeper Tracer

And this is pretty much what the paint looks like throughout the entire finish...

Luckily we love a challenge...

 

[FUNX650]

This car will be part of an extreme makeover, the owner wants to sell it so we're going to try to show what a little detailing work can do to maximize the appearance value of the car to reduce the time on the market and maximize the resale value...


Charlie mentioned the motor and yes it is the 350 with the 2 Barrel Carburetor

Found a new beach towel over the weekend with a horizontal picture instead of a vertical picture to cover the windshield...

This is the original vinyl top and it's in dire need of some gentle cleaning, conditioning and protection.

Front fender, and wheels...

All the chrome trim and script is in excellent condition and the best news of all... no pebble textured black plastic trim...

Amazingly there is no compound splatter slung down the fresh air vents on the hood and we'll be covering these so we don't be the first to create ugly... see this article...

Tape it off and avoid a lifetime of ugly...

If you look to where the overhead florescent lights are reflecting on the paint you can see where the Orange Peel was not completely sanded off and the sanding marks were not completely buffed out of the paint.

The car was repainted by the previous owner and one thing I always say goes like this,



You can hire the best painter in the world, but it's the person that does the wetsanding, cutting and buffing that has control over the final, end-results.

It's easy to make the surface look shiny, the real deal is removing all of your sanding marks...

Same thing here, the paint was sanded by hand, there are sanding marks and deeper Tracers everywhere in the paint.

Here's a close-up of the same location seen above, note the sanding marks left everywhere in the paint...

Here's the passenger's side of the trunk lid, same thing back here, sanding marks everywhere in the paint, deeper Tracers and lots of orange peel where only the tops were knocked off...

I have an article called The Rule of Thumb

In it I explain that normally you only sand where you can SAFELY machine compound. That means staying about a 1/2 inch or so away from edges because to bring an aggressive wool pad on a rotary buffer with an aggressive compound down onto the paint and buff long enough to remove all the sanding marks you risk burning through edges and hard body lines.

Looks like the guy that did the sanding on this car uses the Rule of Thumb.

There are numerous places on this car where it looks like the person doing the buffing held a wool pad on a rotary buffer in one place on the paint and left uniform circles of swirls behind. Weird.

Here's rotary buffer swirls and a deeper Tracer

And this is pretty much what the paint looks like throughout the entire finish...

Luckily we love a challenge...

Mike...You mentioned the owner had the car repainted. Was it repainted with the original single stage (I believe GM used Magic Mirror acrylic lacquer in 1970) or was it with the modern basecoat/clear-coat paint system (supplier?)? Which ever paint that's on the car now--will it make a difference how you approach the paint restoration plan you have in mind, that is the (Extreme Make-Over for enhancement of the 'For Sale' value)---and if so, what is it and why. Thanks.

Note: If I'm not mistaken, the paint color looks to be Viking Blue

 

[Crazy Amos]

This car will be part of an extreme makeover, the owner wants to sell it so we're going to try to show what a little detailing work can do to maximize the appearance value of the car to reduce the time on the market and maximize the resale value...


Charlie mentioned the motor and yes it is the 350 with the 2 Barrel Carburetor

Found a new beach towel over the weekend with a horizontal picture instead of a vertical picture to cover the windshield...

This is the original vinyl top and it's in dire need of some gentle cleaning, conditioning and protection.

Front fender, and wheels...

All the chrome trim and script is in excellent condition and the best news of all... no pebble textured black plastic trim...

Amazingly there is no compound splatter slung down the fresh air vents on the hood and we'll be covering these so we don't be the first to create ugly... see this article...

Tape it off and avoid a lifetime of ugly...

If you look to where the overhead florescent lights are reflecting on the paint you can see where the Orange Peel was not completely sanded off and the sanding marks were not completely buffed out of the paint.

The car was repainted by the previous owner and one thing I always say goes like this,



You can hire the best painter in the world, but it's the person that does the wetsanding, cutting and buffing that has control over the final, end-results.

It's easy to make the surface look shiny, the real deal is removing all of your sanding marks...

Same thing here, the paint was sanded by hand, there are sanding marks and deeper Tracers everywhere in the paint.

Here's a close-up of the same location seen above, note the sanding marks left everywhere in the paint...

Here's the passenger's side of the trunk lid, same thing back here, sanding marks everywhere in the paint, deeper Tracers and lots of orange peel where only the tops were knocked off...

I have an article called The Rule of Thumb

In it I explain that normally you only sand where you can SAFELY machine compound. That means staying about a 1/2 inch or so away from edges because to bring an aggressive wool pad on a rotary buffer with an aggressive compound down onto the paint and buff long enough to remove all the sanding marks you risk burning through edges and hard body lines.

Looks like the guy that did the sanding on this car uses the Rule of Thumb.

There are numerous places on this car where it looks like the person doing the buffing held a wool pad on a rotary buffer in one place on the paint and left uniform circles of swirls behind. Weird.

Here's rotary buffer swirls and a deeper Tracer

And this is pretty much what the paint looks like throughout the entire finish...

Luckily we love a challenge...

Lucky son of a gun!

You truly have THE dream job!!!!! Man o'man!

 

[Meghan]

This should be fun to watch!!

 

[Dr Oldz]

:xyxthumbs: :iagree:

 

[TLMitchell]

This car will be part of an extreme makeover, the owner wants to sell it so we're going to try to show what a little detailing work can do to maximize the appearance value of the car to reduce the time on the market and maximize the resale value...

A "little" detailing work?!? Looks like a full cut n buff to me. Can't wait to see the finished product! It'll be extremely interesting to see the under-hood before n afters as I particularly enjoy the contrast when something's especially grungy. Im the MANI'm wondering what the plan is for the pad on the underside of the hood. Some of the newer fabric-type pads clean up great with AA Tire Foam. I've never figured out what to use on the older ones that resemble insulation.

Any good recommendations for removing surface corrosion like what's on the master cylinder? I was recently asked how Wheel Brightener and a toothbrush might work on something like that. I told him to try it and let me know how it works out.

TL

 

[mleach82]

beautiful car, can't wait to see the end result

 

[C. Charles Hahn]

Front fender, and wheels...

Well in addition to non-original paint, those can't be the original wheels. Actually they look like a set of 15" Super Stock III wheels from a later G-body 442 (mid '80s model).

Unfortunately even though it does have very low original mileage, those non-original parts do detract from the car's value in the sense that a collector wouldn't be as interested in the car unless they were looking for a very nice driver-quality cruiser. It's not really investment quality.

Still, that's one cool car!