1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Single Stage Paint

Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Great work Mike! Looks amazing!

I have a question though. You take on a similar project in your article The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints, where you restore single stage paint using #7. However, in that article you clay before using a microfiber to apply the #7, and in this project you clay after using terry cloths to apply the #7. Why did you change your technique?

Thank you!
 
That looks great Mike. I have a couple questions though. In your opinion do you think Megs D151 would have worked faster on this being as it has a higher level of cut or is the black fire AIO better on single stage paints? Also, I notice in many of your threads you suggest using megs #7 to bring moisture into the paint. Now I've used #7 on both a single stage paint and on oxidized clear coat. Both times it created a chalky mess and was near impossible to remove. What could I have done wrong? I don't use #7 often and the bottle I'm using is 2 years old. Could the age of the bottle be the problem?

Sent from my HTC6435LVW using AG Online
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Wow...

How long did you allow #7 to sit on the paint?
Understand we`re under time constraints on Thursday night makeovers.We generally have a large crew but Mike starts answering questions at 7AM on the forum and by 9PM he`s ready to go home.We do the best that the paint can offer in that time frame.There only so many electrical outlets in the garage so if you snooze you don`t get to use a machine.Mike is a great teacher but he can`t be everywhere all the time.Sometimes us guys that have been there for awhile let the newbes take the machine so they can learn and give we them encouragement.The paint was trashed on this one but look at the results.Sometimes I do alot of the grunt work and sometimes I work with the new guys teaching them the precious knowledge Mike has afforded me.Remember this is free (short of some pizza in most cases) to the owner for the benefit of the forum members.So to answer your question on how long...not very long.:buffing:
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Looks like a magic act was performed on this one. I'd say a soon to be son-in-law has a regular project to protect.
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Wow, looks amazing, as I expected.

I didn't see any mention of using M7 in the intro, and was wondering why you wouldn't use it for such oxidised SS paint. So you DID in fact use M7?
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

what a turn around, that looks like a new paint job

Kind of like the 1939 Chevy you worked on at the last Detailing Boot Camp Class. :xyxthumbs:

Pictures: Detailing Classes at Autogeek - May 2014

Before
1939_Chevy_Coupe_Detail_Class_Car_023.jpg



After
May_2014_Detailing_Class_016.jpg






Seriously though, OMG! What a transformation!

Any unknowing person would end up paying $2000+ for a paint job that wouldn't even look nearly as great as you and the team made it look!

Great work! This one will definitely stick in my mind for a long time!

On behalf of the team... thank you for the kind words...



Just sitting at my computer and my 14 year old daughter who really isn't into cars at all walks by---I show her the before and after photos...

"Gee Dad, even I have to admit that's pretty good."

High praise from her!

Thanks for sharing that...



Great results!

Mike is there any reason to not use a machine for the number 7?

When restoring antique single stage paint, which this car does not qualify), you want to gently gorge the paint with the #7 oils and at the same time rub off some of the dead, oxidized paint. For this you want to work by hand using terry cloth.



i'm sure Mike will respond and correct any wrong info i give, but as i understand it from last night:

-- you want to use terry cloth towels as sort of a mild abrasive to rub the oils into the paint and remove oxidized paint

Perfect answer Larry...


-- anything used on a machine will simply be not abrasive enough, or too abrasive, and not as controlled. (think resto work on antique cars to preserve original paint)

Any machine application won't be able to duplicate what the simple human hand can do with a small piece of terrycloth.

It's kind of rare but sometimes the best tool for the job is the human hand...



-- we were really laying into it with the towels, very different than any hand application technique that would ever be used on a clear coat.

Perfect answer. And yes, we were putting some passion behind the towel.


This process of revitalizing oxidized paint in the context of my article on this topic is for antique single stage paint for the person that is restoring a car that's IMPORTANT to them.

This Rodeo doesn't qualify for the type of car my article is about I mostly shared this technique with the guys that showed up to share the technique.

The comments I heard as people saw the transformation take place were comments of astonishment.

Here's my article,

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


:0
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Wow...

How long did you allow #7 to sit on the paint?

We didn't. We applied to the terry cloth, used our arms to rub the terrycloth over the paint, then wiped off the excess.

This is NOT they type of car I would normally use the technique outlined in the below article to restore the paint.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


First this isn't an antique nor antique paint.

Second, this Isuzu Rodeo does not qualify as a special interest vehicle, at least not to me.

That said, it was a great teaching tool to teach the people that attended this class the technique for using your hand to hand-rub paint.

Some of the guys attending this project have never seen nor used this type of technique for restoring paint BUT if they are ever in a position to do this type of work they now have real-world experience.



Incredible turnaround!!! What did you guys use around the lettering (badging)?

Worked those areas by hand...



Great work Mike! Looks amazing!

I have a question though.

You take on a similar project in your article where you restore single stage paint using #7.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints



However, in that article you clay before using a microfiber to apply the #7, and in this project you clay after using terry cloths to apply the #7.

Why did you change your technique?


Two reasons why....

1. Claying or mechanically decontaminating the paint would have loaded detailing clay up with dead paint. Somewhere on this forum I have an article about this topic I'm just not sure where? OR the title of the article but it does explain to clay AFTER the #7 treatment.

2. I wanted those attending to see the extreme before and after differences from their hard work so it would ingrain into them the value of using a technique like this for antique, single stage paint.

The portion that has the most effect is the change in appearance and to have clayed or used the Nanoskin Autoscrub Towels would have reduced or taken away from the change. This portion of this project was more about a teaching moment for the people than it was restoring the paint on the Isuzu.


Great questions....



:)
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Wow, looks amazing, as I expected.

I didn't see any mention of using M7 in the intro, and was wondering why you wouldn't use it for such oxidized SS paint. So you DID in fact use M7?


Yes we used the #7, not sure why I left it out of the intro?

Regardless, I did share a picture....

watermark.php



:)
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Fantastic work - gentlemen! I am in shock that you could bring back that paint. Results well deserved!

I know I love and use the Blackfire combo used here! Although I would have inserted some Crystal Seal in between the TPnS and MS - especially not knowing when this thing will be washed / waxed again. Prob not enough time would be my guess to add or maybe I just do product overkill!
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Thanks Mike. I had blast working on the Isuzu truck turned out like new. Thank you for the book and hope to see you again. :xyxthumbs:
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Thanks Mike. I had blast working on the Isuzu truck turned out like new. Thank you for the book and hope to see you again. :xyxthumbs:


Thank you far making time to visit Autogeek's Thursday Night Project of the Week while you're were here all the way from Chicago.


:dblthumb2:
 
Re: 1998 Isuzu Rodeo Extreme Makeover! - Factory Single Stage Paint

Michael, Frank and the whole Team that participated. Wow! Big effort to make the paint shine on this vehicle. Excellent work on bringing its beauty back to life. :props:

Take care all. :coolgleam:


We didn't. We applied to the terry cloth, used our arms to rub the terrycloth over the paint, then wiped off the excess.

This is NOT they type of car I would normally use the technique outlined in the below article to restore the paint.

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


First this isn't an antique nor antique paint.

Second, this Isuzu Rodeo does not qualify as a special interest vehicle, at least not to me.

That said, it was a great teaching tool to teach the people that attended this class the technique for using your hand to hand-rub paint.

Some of the guys attending this project have never seen nor used this type of technique for restoring paint BUT if they are ever in a position to do this type of work they now have real-world experience.





Worked those areas by hand...






Two reasons why....

1. Claying or mechanically decontaminating the paint would have loaded detailing clay up with dead paint. Somewhere on this forum I have an article about this topic I'm just not sure where? OR the title of the article but it does explain to clay AFTER the #7 treatment.

2. I wanted those attending to see the extreme before and after differences from their hard work so it would ingrain into them the value of using a technique like this for antique, single stage paint.

The portion that has the most effect is the change in appearance and to have clayed or used the Nanoskin Autoscrub Towels would have reduced or taken away from the change. This portion of this project was more about a teaching moment for the people than it was restoring the paint on the Isuzu.


Great questions....



:)
 
I know this is more of a showcase than a how-to, but I'm wondering about the reasons for using a glaze (ostensibly a finishing polish product) before using an AIO. Would the BF AIO or D151 have trouble turning out a production detail result without that step?
 
I know this is more of a showcase than a how-to, but I'm wondering about the reasons for using a glaze (ostensibly a finishing polish product) before using an AIO.


Great question, let me straighten out some info included in your above post.

#7 Show Car Glaze is a true glaze in the sense that it contains no abrasives for correction work. It's very very rich in polishing oils, actually Meguiar's Trade Secret Polishing Oils and this formula was created sometime during the early 1900's, like about the time the Model T was introduced to the horse riding world.

It is unique in the world just by the mere fact that it still exists today. I would challenge anyone to find a product that was for sale in the early 1900's that's still on the market today.


Would the BF AIO or D151 have trouble turning out a production detail result without that step?


My guess is "no". BF AIO or D151 or any quality cleaner/wax could have created these results.

I used the paint on this car as a "teaching moment" for my regular attenders that have probably read about my #7 Rub Down Technique in the below article but have never had the opportunity to put the technique into practice.

The below is just an excerpt, I believe the whole article is 12,000 to 14,000 words with over 100 pictures.


Mike Phillips said:
The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints




The Secret of Number Seven
There is a way to restore single stage paints that is non-abrasive and as gentle as you can get using a product that’s been around since early paints were formulated. That product is called Meguiar's Mirror Glaze #7 Show Car Glaze.

#7 Sealer Reseal Glaze = Show Car Glaze
Here’s a photo of a few bottles of #7 from my car wax collection. I have some older bottles from before WWII, but this picture shows the transition from when the name changed from Sealer and Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze.

800_M07Collection.jpg

(Click here for a larger picture)


The glass bottle on the left hand side is post-WWII. You can identify glass bottles as pre-WWII or post-WWII by the name on the label. Pre-WWII bottles will say Mirror Bright on the front label and post-WWII bottles will have Mirror Glaze on the bottle. This has to so with a posterity program instigated by the U.S. Government at the start of World War II which prevented companies from raising prices on existing products; because the cost of raw materials were increasing due to the war a lot of companies couldn’t make a profit under the new regulations so to get around them they would introduce a new product line at a higher price point. These could be the same physical products but introduced as a new product line by giving the products different names.

#7 Show Car Glaze as it’s called today is what’s referred to as a non-abrasive pure polish, it’s not for abrading paint but instead for maintaining paint and creating a beautiful finish. There’s a lot of confusion over this product and any product that uses the word polish in the product's name or on the label because the word polish is usually interpreted to mean some type of abrasive product as in a rubbing or polishing compound. While that might be true for some products it’s not true for this product.

Sometimes I have to remind people that #7 has been around long before plastic was invented, thus the glass bottles. The plastic "cylinder" bottle you see below, (just to the right of the glass bottle), was the first plastic bottle used for #7 and was introduced I think in the late 1950's, maybe early 1960's.

The 4th bottle from the right shows when they changed the name from Sealer Reseal Glaze to Show Car Glaze primarily because as our lingo changed in the car appearance world. People were confusing the word "Sealer" with the word "Sealant" and M07 is water-soluble. Hopefully everyone reading this can understand why that kind of confusion could be a problem in the enthusiast or consumer market.


The third bottle from the right shows the label during the transition when the name was changed. If you look closely under the words Show Car Glaze it reads, (Same as Sealer and Reseal Glaze)

Transition Label Circa Late 1980's or 1990's
1000_M07Collectionc.jpg



Just in case you don’t understand why there was some confusion over the use of the word "Sealer" here’s why; a paint sealant is for protection and should last through inclement weather and repeated car washings. #7 is water soluble; that means it will break down in inclement weather or with repeated washings. It offers no lasting characteristics. It’s not supposed to be a paint protectant, but a glaze that’s safe for use on fresh paint and will give paint a wet-look.

The name sealer and reseal glaze came from it's ability to hide or mask hairline scratches temporarily, or in other words it would seal hairline scratches and as it wore off and was re-applied it would reseal, or re-hide hairline scratches.

In todays detailing lingo hairline scratches = swirls.

#7 has no protection ability and no lasting ability. So when the word sealant became more commonly used in the car wax market people were confusing the word sealer with sealant and purchasing and using the product thinking it was a paint sealant that would last for a long time and protect for a long time when in fact it's nickname is Queen-For-The-Day, in that car guys would wipe their car down with #7 to give it the wet-look for the day of the big car show but the first time the car is washed the extremely wet look the product would impart to paint would disappear as the water soluble oils would wash off with the rinse water.


Anyway, the name was changed sometime in the early 1990’s as back in the 1980’s and continuing through to even today, a lot of “paint sealants" have been introduced in the car appearance market to compete along side Carnauba car waxes. So to avoid confusion the name was changed to reflect, (no pun intended), what this product is and has been famous for over the last century and that’s create a deep, wet shine on show cars.


Bringing the dead back to life...
Besides being used as described above, #7 is also famous for its ability to revive dead, oxidized single stage paints. This has to do with the unique feeder-oil formula created by Frank Meguiar’s Jr. back in the early days of Meguiar’s which was also the early days of the Automobile. Meguiar’s was founded in 1901 and for perspective, only a few years earlier in 1886, Karl Benz was awarded a patent for a gas-fueled car and it wasn’t until 1908 that Henry Ford introduced the Model T.

I don’t know exactly when #7 was introduced but I think sometime in the early 1920’s, like 1923 or 1924. While #7 may have been introduced in the 1920’s, the formula that became #7 was around even earlier, possibly back to 1901. Here's a collection of 4 very old Mirror Bright polishes; it is my opinion that the formulas used in these products were pre-cursors to what became #7 Sealer and Reseal Glaze.

Photos Courtesy of MeguiarsOnline.com
24OldMegsBottles.JPG


The above is the only article like it in the world... at least to my knowledge.



Good question....


:dblthumb2:
 
Thanks for your patience once again, Mike! After I posted I jumped in the time machine and went back to read that article and a few others and they definitely cleared up most of my confusion -- especially once the déjà-vu kicked out and I realized I had read them when you first published them!

Hope to make it down to Stuart some time soon for (at the very least) a Coffee or Thursday session. Any idea of the schedule after the next couple of weeks? Oh, and Boot Camp is definitely high on my list, too. :)
 
Thanks for your patience once again, Mike! After I posted I jumped in the time machine and went back to read that article and a few others and they definitely cleared up most of my confusion -- especially once the déjà-vu kicked out and I realized I had read them when you first published them!

Heck I can't remember every article I've posted any more and my "article list" hasn't been updated in at least two years.


Hope to make it down to Stuart some time soon for (at the very least) a Coffee or Thursday session.

Cars & Coffee is going to be bigger and better next year with more surprises. The next one coming up is going to be a huge hit with the man himself, Wayne Carini making an appearance. More special guest are planned for 2015 as well as more cool Tech Sessions and always great cars and coffee....



Any idea of the schedule after the next couple of weeks?


There's a Cars & Coffee in January.

There's the January Detailing Boot Camp Class but it's been full for about 3-4 months and the May class is already filling up.

Our Thursday Night Projects Classes should start back up in January and then there will be one the Thursday night that follows the Cars & Coffee show each second Satruday of each month.


Oh, and Boot Camp is definitely high on my list, too. :)


Detailing Classes at Autogeek for 2015


Consistent Dates Each Year

Because we have people that fly in from around the country and around the world we consistently hold our classes the same time each year so you can make your travel arrangements, (airline tickets, hotel reservations and rental cars).

Due to the popularity of these classes we've added an extra class for 2015.


Last weekend of January.
First weekend of May
Third weekend in July
Last weekend in September


Here are the dates for Detailing Classes at Autogeek for 2015.



January 2015 Class

January 24th and 25th - Full - No more seats available.




Note: Starting in May of 2015 the classes go to three days.


May 2015 Class

Friday May 1st
Saturday May 2nd
Sunday May 3rd

Click here to sign-up for this class



July 2015 Class
Friday, July 17th
Saturday, July 18th
Sunday, July 19th

Call 1-800-869-3011 to sign up for this class.



September 2015 Class
Friday, September 25th
Saturday, September 26th
Sunday, September 27th

Call 1-800-869-3011 to sign up for this class.




All classes always fill up so plan accordingly and get registered early.

:xyxthumbs:
 
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