2008 VW GTI - Paint Correction

[Audios S6]

The owner of this car is a photographer and the ourdoorsy type. The car has been on many camping trips and frequently has a kayak strapped to the roof. Needless to say, it was pretty beat up. The Owner was around for the entire detail and had a chance to play with a DA for a while. The paint correction work was a little too intensiive for him, so he'll be bringing it back for subsequent work. I'm still awaiting all of the 50/50 and before after shots, but here are some pretty cool ones during the wash phase and final shots. MKV GTI owners (and Lawrence) may notice simthing not quite right about the valences and lower trim....they were painted to match the body and it looks 10000% better that way IMO.

Exterior
Wheels/Tires - Meguiars DUB wheel cleaner + permanon/Megs D103 + CG silk shine
Pre-foam - 2oz CG CW+G & 2 oz BH surfex HD + 28 oz hot water
2BM - CG CW+G
Clay - ONR lube with Nanoskin autoscrub on GG6 and speedyprep towel
Correction - Megs MF cutting disc with M205 on Fupes 21
Light Jewel - LC gray with SF4500 on rotary
LSP - PBL coating booster
Exhaust - S100 polishing soap
Trim - UTTG

Filthy wheels

Some photos during wash - pretty sweet except for the lack of beading

Fupes 21 in action

Finished

I had mentioned in a previous thread about the MF cutting disc and M205 combo on this car. I found that it corrected very well and only left the slightest haze. It removed 90%+ of shallow defects in 4 passes and was able to minimize and remove RIDS when I spent some extra time on them. The only trouble was that the amount of oils in M205 loaded up the pad very quickly and I was switching pads too frequently. I would guess that D301 may be a better choice since it was designed for MF pads and only has slightly less cut than M205.

Hopefully I can add to this as I recieve more photos.

Questions/comments are always welcome.

Thanks for reading.

 

[helder87]

great job, looks awesome!

 

[Pureshine]

Great work! I have same car a 2009 and use fg400 with great results and no hazing.

 

[Audios S6]

Great work! I have same car a 2009 and use fg400 with great results and no hazing.

Thanks!

I've had this hazing on a few cars now, I think it is a result of the MF cutting disc/Fupes21 combo and my technique. FG400, M205 and HD adapt have all left some very slight hazing - it really won't show in pictures (unless you look for a halo around a light source), but side by side under direct sun, I can see it and it bugs me. When I've switched to foam pads or different machine, all 3 polishes/compounds have finished down great. I guess I still need to refine the method. As of now, I'm still faster doing a quick second step than reverting back to the GG6 and doing a single step. Just need more practice on junk panels.

 

[jamesboyy]

Marvelous work on that GTI that black paintwork now have shine and depth once again

 

[BTLew81]

I've found a polish to work well on the Meg's cutting disks, especially on hard paint. Haven't had haze issues, but I've worked mostly on light colors. Nice work. Wonder how the coating booster will hold up on its own.

 

[lawrenceSA]

Another VW given a new lease on life.... awesome stuff!

Thanks for sharing:xyxthumbs:

 

[haris300]

Nice work and great photos! I try not to use microfiber pads with my finishing polishes. An orange or white foam pad usually does the trick and eliminates any hazing (if any) from compounds like FG400. Most of the time FG400 finishes pretty well by itself with a MF pad, but every car is different so you never know until you try haha.

 

[Audios S6]

great job, looks awesome!

Thanks

Marvelous work on that GTI that black paintwork now have shine and depth once again

Thanks

I've found a polish to work well on the Meg's cutting disks, especially on hard paint. Haven't had haze issues, but I've worked mostly on light colors. Nice work. Wonder how the coating booster will hold up on its own.

Thanks. In the photo of the FUPES 21, you can see the reflection of my hand in the area that was only compounded, I can't see the hazing there, but it does exist. I doubt any customer would ever see it, but I don't like leaving it in that state when they're paying for a higher level of quality.

Another VW given a new lease on life.... awesome stuff!

Thanks for sharing:xyxthumbs:

Thanks. I do love the MKV.

Nice work and great photos! I try not to use microfiber pads with my finishing polishes. An orange or white foam pad usually does the trick and eliminates any hazing (if any) from compounds like FG400. Most of the time FG400 finishes pretty well by itself with a MF pad, but every car is different so you never know until you try haha.

Agreed, test spot ###. There was a recent thread asking about M205 on a MF cutting disc, so in this instance, I was trying it out to provide feedback. It did work suprising well. As I've said above, I think with a different machine or fine tuning the process on my part, it could have been one-stepped.

 

[Pureshine]

Thanks!

I've had this hazing on a few cars now, I think it is a result of the MF cutting disc/Fupes21 combo and my technique. FG400, M205 and HD adapt have all left some very slight hazing - it really won't show in pictures (unless you look for a halo around a light source), but side by side under direct sun, I can see it and it bugs me. When I've switched to foam pads or different machine, all 3 polishes/compounds have finished down great. I guess I still need to refine the method. As of now, I'm still faster doing a quick second step than reverting back to the GG6 and doing a single step. Just need more practice on junk panels.

FG400 can have but most of the time its from putting to much pressure or not letting it break down all the way. I use my Rupes 21 with MF pads never a problem. The key with MF pads is keeping them clean and air is the best way to do this. I always finish with a foam pad after any compound.

 

[Audios S6]

FG400 can have but most of the time its from putting to much pressure or not letting it break down all the way. I use my Rupes 21 with MF pads never a problem. The key with MF pads is keeping them clean and air is the best way to do this. I always finish with a foam pad after any compound.

I've typically done 4 passes slow passes with no pressure or minimal pressure when using fg400 and mf pads on the fupes. Do you find fg400 needs to be worked longer than that? I'm also using a brush and air after every section so the pads should be relatively clean.

 

[Pureshine]

I've typically done 4 passes slow passes with no pressure or minimal pressure when using fg400 and mf pads on the fupes. Do you find fg400 needs to be worked longer than that? I'm also using a brush and air after every section so the pads should be relatively clean.

Yes I make at least 5-6 passes it has to be a clear milky looking and your cleaning the pads the right way.

 

[HenkeL]

On my jet black -14 BMW I was left with som hazing after using the complete Microfiber system from Meguiar's. Tried 3M's Ultrafina with orange pad and the hazing disappeared. The system worked great on my parents Saab with blue metalic. But I will use foam pad after MF cutting with some finishing polishes for my black BMW in the future. Which Menzerna would you recommend for final finishing? I will try using the orange foam pad together with Meguiar's D301 since I already have 32 oz of this to remove the hazing on the rest of the car. The 3M was just a small sample from the local detailer. Let you know the outcome of this combination for removing the hazing.

 

[lawrenceSA]

Menzerna SF4000 on a Lake Country Crimson Pad works well to finish off on harder paints.

On softer paints you may want to try Menzerna SF4500 on a Black/Grey finishing pad

 

[HenkeL]

Tried different polishes And I think the solution for removing the hazing is finishing with a soft foam pad. Tried 3M Ultrafina, D301 and Ultimate polish with th soft pad that was included with the polisher and the hazing disappeared . So basically for my jet black paint on my new BMW I have to use foam pad in the final step to get mirror like finish without hazing. The brand of the polish is not critical.

 

[RobRabbit2.5]

This question is for the OP of this thread. I have noticed your threads about multiple details to vws most importantly this one as well as the 2015 R.

As you'll see in my forum photo i own a MKV rabbit daily driver that is black. I use optimum no rinse wash and shine on it all the time and love it. Here is my question.

Do you recommend ONR as a lubricant for using the nanoskin autoscrub pad? I'm looking to speed up my decontamination step with this product and wanted to know your thoughts on it. Does it cause the "marring" everyone talks about on black paint? Does ONR work well with it?

Your results speak for themselves, it gives me confidence to move ahead with the purchase. Just wondered if you could get a little more DETAILED. sorry couldn't resist. the puns....the puns.

Thanks in advance.

Rob

 

[Audios S6]

This question is for the OP of this thread. I have noticed your threads about multiple details to vws most importantly this one as well as the 2015 R.

As you'll see in my forum photo i own a MKV rabbit daily driver that is black. I use optimum no rinse wash and shine on it all the time and love it. Here is my question.

Do you recommend ONR as a lubricant for using the nanoskin autoscrub pad? I'm looking to speed up my decontamination step with this product and wanted to know your thoughts on it. Does it cause the "marring" everyone talks about on black paint? Does ONR work well with it?

Your results speak for themselves, it gives me confidence to move ahead with the purchase. Just wondered if you could get a little more DETAILED. sorry couldn't resist. the puns....the puns.

Thanks in advance.

Rob

Thread bump for sure! I don't know what's more surprising, you found this or I still have my subscription.

Without knowing, I'm assuming you have a magic black (metallic) MKV. Generally this is medium to hard paint and can stand up well to a nanoskin application, but there are a few thing to keep in mind as even the hardest paint can get marring with improper use.

1. use a lot of lubricant, a whole lot more than you would with clay.

2. The fine grade would be adequate in most instances, the medium grade is likely to cause marring on even harder finishes.

3. clean the pad often, like ever panel.

4. keep the speed of a GG6 to 2 or less, but the pad needs to rotate.

5. You will still need clay or a speedy prep towel for the bumpers.

My experience is that soft paints can be done with no marring and the hardest paints can be marred, it's a matter of proper technique. I would advise that you go with a speedy prep towel or similar product rather than a pad for machine use. It will still speed things up significantly, but won't limit where you can work. You should still follow the same advice as above.

Also, consider if you are doing a polishing step or not. If you are polishing, marring is the lightest of defects and will easily be removed if you are polishing. If I am not planning to polish, I will always start with a nanoskin, if it is marring the paint, I'll switch to the speed prep towel, it that is marring I'll switch to regular clay. If I'm polishing I really don't worry about it as the defects will come out.