2009 FX50S: Very Hard Paint!

richy

richy

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So a couple of interesting things came up doing this car. First, I got a chance to do a legit side-by-side comparison between a TB black wool and the HD black wool. More on that in a bit. Plus, I also experienced a paint that Amerirocks would not correct. More on that in a bit too.


This car was to be corrected within a pretty reasonable time frame and then coated with Americoat. I could not believe the amount of chips this car had too. I had nicknamed it "Chips Ahoy" (after my favourite cookie) once I got it cleaned up, but let's start at the beginnning.


Here it is as it arrived. I was to do a quick vacuum and light interior clean if time permitted.














Damage to the passenger door edge:





There was also these tiny dots all over the car. It was not your usual contamination and would not be removed by IronX or clay. Even aggressive compounding only took away so many. It was very strange.





Oh, the other thing I had to fix was both headlights. Some dealership hack damaged them leaving them badly scratched up and cloudy at the ends:










General Condition:

















He asked me to clean these up and try to make it so they wouldn't get so dirty anymore:


















First up was washing the wheels and area.

The wells were cleaned with Tarminator and then followed by with Zep Citrus and the faces were done the same way.
The tires were cleaned twice with Zep 505 due to being really brown.
The wells were cleaned with LATA.

Now, I did something different at this stage that I hadn't done before. I wanted some protection for the barrels, so after rinsing everything off, I sprayed CarPro Hydro in the barrels and plastic wells and then power washed it clean. I love the immediate sheeting action it provides! That saves me doing it with Permanon later. I was careful not to get the faces as they were going to be coated too.

The car was then washed with DG901 and then subjected to a Decontamination wash using IronX paste.

The car was then brought inside and was blown off with the Master Blaster and then clayed with the Speedy Prep towel.


Here is what the hood was looking like after being clayed:





I am usually pretty good at capturing the defects, but they really seemed to go deep and in combination of what turned out to be very hard paint:






First up to correct however were the headlights. A multi stage wet sanding amping up from 1000 grit to 3000 grit. Here is one in progress:




 
Now it was my favourite time: playing with paint! I call it playing b/c I really do enjoy this stage the most: it's the most gratifying stage for me. Once I saw the defects and before I knew how hard the paint was, I knew I'd get a chance to compare my 2 black wool pads, namely my resident champ, the TufBuff and the HD. The HD costs more but looks identical in every way except for a fancier backing to it (who cares?!) I had used the HD twice so it was still new. I then did alternating sections on the hood using the 2 pads with the same compounds (both M105 and Amerirocks) using the same speed (6) on my Flex 3401. My conclusion? (Same as what a little birdie had told me): They're identical. Unless a fancier backing that you don't see is important to you then I suggest you save your $ and get the TB if you need (and you do, you just don't know it yet) one. I ordered 2 more TB pads after this trial.

The other thing with this paint is that it turned out to be rock hard. I remember my 2004 FX35 had very hard clear too and this 5 year newer model was to be the same. No sticky, soft clear here my friend, no way! In fact, what was quickly becoming my go-to for aggressive compounding, namely Amerirocks, did not cut through the defects nearly enough on this paint. Even with multiple passes which I hate doing. I then tried mixing some Menz Power Gloss with the 105 to extend the working life and allow it to finish better than it usually does, but even that left me unsatisfied. I then dialed up my buddy Ken in British Colombia and we chatted about it. He suggested M101. I had it and didn't like it initially when I had tried it so it was sitting collecting dust. Ken believes it's the most aggressive compound you can buy except for some horribly strong stuff from Scholl which is not very user friendly. I decided to try to mix the 101 with the 105 at about a 1/3 2/3 rough mixture on the pad using small dots. FINALLY! Sometimes more 101 was needed and sometimes less. I used it straight with a 4" yellow B/S foam pad and my rotary to do the A pillars and over the doors. Even that was not getting everything out. This was not up to my usual standard of correction but the time allowance wasn't there and I really didn't feel like grinding off more clear was the answer either. I honestly feel I obtained a fair correction removing the least amount of clear I could.
That stage was followed by M205 + white B/S + Flex and then I used DG Squeaky Clean + B/S green pad + Flex as a check to the work and to make sure I wouldn't have any bonding issues with AC.
An ONR wipedown was done at the end to take away any dust prior to coating. The wheels were hand polished with Squeaky Clean. The wheels, paint and glass except for the windshield all got Americoat. So did the trim in fact. The windshield got Fly-By-30. The tires were shot with a 50-50 mix of OptiBond and water via my mini spray gun and leveled. Boy, I miss my DG Wet Shine! Anyone want 2/3 gallon of OB for cheap?? Lastly the exhaust tips were polished with M205 and then coated with AC along with the trim.

The interior glass was done with a KD cloth and the carpets and seats and dash were vacuumed using various brush attachments. The wood was treated with UIGP.


All in all, this vehicle took 18 hours.


Here are some inside shots as it was forecasted to rain the next morning (shot at 2:00 am):




































Here is a headlight closeup:




It cleared up in the afternoon and the customer was happy to wait to get it when it was dry outside so I got to shoot a few outside shots too:























A happy camper pulling away:





Thanks for looking!!
 
Your work is phenomenal man. Its. I've actually been meaning to ask if you wanted to try an HD as I would have sent you one to try. From reading so many of your threads, I purchased the TB's to compare to my HD's and I think they are twins. What I like about the TB's is so many sizes to use, and being a little less money is nice as well. Ah yes, buffing a car with a good cigar, that's a good day in my book. Keep up the great work Richy.
 
It might be some hard paint though that did not stop you from makeing that FX50s a black masterpiece..amazing work
 
Fantastic work as always, Rich.

Damn, that must have been some super hard clear!! M101, huh! I find it to be a PITA to remove at times.

As far as the ONR wipedown prior to coating, you don't feel that presents a bonding issue considering ONR is full of polymers?
 
fly07sti said:
Your work is phenomenal man. Its. I've actually been meaning to ask if you wanted to try an HD as I would have sent you one to try. From reading so many of your threads, I purchased the TB's to compare to my HD's and I think they are twins. What I like about the TB's is so many sizes to use, and being a little less money is nice as well. Ah yes, buffing a car with a good cigar, that's a good day in my book. Keep up the great work Richy.
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Thanks for that offer. When the seller of the HD pads (in the US) was insisting they were different, I wanted to try one to see how different it was. I have some small (2" and 3") TB's as well for my rotary.

GettingStarted said:
Great Job! Also curious as to why use the Zep 505 over the Citrus degreaser.
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Thanks! I just find it works better on tires than the Citrus does. It's a pain to stock another APC, but I like it on tires so I do.

jamesboyy said:
It might be some hard paint though that did not stop you from makeing that FX50s a black masterpiece..amazing work
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James, thanks very much! He was very happy with the outcome!

ZL1 Mark said:
Fantastic work as always, Rich.

Damn, that must have been some super hard clear!! M101, huh! I find it to be a PITA to remove at times.

As far as the ONR wipedown prior to coating, you don't feel that presents a bonding issue considering ONR is full of polymers?
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Thanks Mark! That's why I mixed it to make it nicer to work with. That did help it. As far as ONR goes, no, I haven't had an issue and I'd rather use ONR on a dusty surface than Eraser. I started using it back when I was using the Optimum coatings and have never found an issue. I never use the version with the wax in it and the last thing I want to do after polishing the car is put it back outside and wash it again.
 
Awesome job. Infiniti has some damn hard paint. I spent many hours working on the wife's 2005 QX56 with Meguiar's Xtra Cutting Discs and D300\M105...
 
Rich does this infinity have the scratch sensitive clear coat?
 
Awesome job and write up as per usual. I know the wool pads are pretty aggressive, but have you ever considered the LC hybrid pads and menzerna FG400. There is a lot going around about this combo. I have this set up, but have not had to use it yet. I'm finding that so far everything I've had to 3 step I've been able to correct with the hybrid blue with SIP followed up with the hybrid white with SF4000. Just throwing it out there??
 
PapaChop said:
Awesome job. Infiniti has some damn hard paint. I spent many hours working on the wife's 2005 QX56 with Meguiar's Xtra Cutting Discs and D300M105...
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Amen to that brother. I feel your pain!
10secdream said:
Rich does this infinity have the scratch sensitive clear coat?
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I've never heard of the scratch sensitive clear. Maybe this had the option of "scratched all to Hell clear"??
joebrez said:
In 2009, it should have (mine did). However, I think it only lasts 3 or 4years.

Great job!
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Thanks, and thanks and I agree.
Newdetailer1 said:
Awesome job and write up as per usual. I know the wool pads are pretty aggressive, but have you ever considered the LC hybrid pads and menzerna FG400. There is a lot going around about this combo. I have this set up, but have not had to use it yet. I'm finding that so far everything I've had to 3 step I've been able to correct with the hybrid blue with SIP followed up with the hybrid white with SF4000. Just throwing it out there??
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I meant to go look to see whether I had the FG400 as well as the Power Gloss as it rates it one higher for cut. I just don't like how they work compared to the Megs products. I am so used to how the Megs stuff works now, it's hard to transition. I can work Megs stuff in my sleep, LOL.
 
richy said:
Amen to that brother. I feel your pain!
I've never heard of the scratch sensitive clear. Maybe this had the option of "scratched all to Hell clear"??
Thanks, and thanks and I agree.
I meant to go look to see whether I had the FG400 as well as the Power Gloss as it rates it one higher for cut. I just don't like how they work compared to the Megs products. I am so used to how the Megs stuff works now, it's hard to transition. I can work Megs stuff in my sleep, LOL.
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IIRC, FG400 has more cut according to Menzerna.
 
sensational work, OP. maybe i missed it - did you touch up the chips?

ZL1 Mark said:
As far as the ONR wipedown prior to coating, you don't feel that presents a bonding issue considering ONR is full of polymers?
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ONR is totally compatible with 2.0 and Pro. it isn't concentrated enough to cause an issue. it makes sense that it works with competing coatings as well but the OP obv has more experience with those alternate products. Opti-Clean, however, is not recommended prior to coating for the exact reason you mentioned.

additionally, Optimum-polished surfaces with the exception of GPS and Poli-Seal need only be wiped down with a damp cloth prior to coating. no IPA needed. in fact the Hyper spray twins are practically dustless so you won't have a dusty car to clean like you would after using most compounds and polishes. you have probably seem this info before but i figured i'd share it in case you or anyone hasn't.
 
builthatch said:
sensational work, OP. maybe i missed it - did you touch up the chips?



ONR is totally compatible with 2.0 and Pro. it isn't concentrated enough to cause an issue. it makes sense that it works with competing coatings as well but the OP obv has more experience with those alternate products. Opti-Clean, however, is not recommended prior to coating for the exact reason you mentioned.

additionally, Optimum-polished surfaces with the exception of GPS and Poli-Seal need only be wiped down with a damp cloth prior to coating. no IPA needed. in fact the Hyper spray twins are practically dustless so you won't have a dusty car to clean like you would after using most compounds and polishes. you have probably seem this info before but i figured i'd share it in case you or anyone hasn't.
Click to expand...

Great info. :props:


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