richy
New member
- Mar 27, 2007
- 5,158
- 0
This vehicle is from a repeat customer. I did a Mazda Miata for her last summer. This is their daily driver and it was in need of some TLC. I was itching to try out a new compound that I had just ordered that is supposed to finish down VERY well. My original plan (without seeing the vehicle) was to one step it using a yellow or orange B/S pad. The paint was too rough for that approach. Here it is as it arrived:
First up was the wheels. The barrels and faces were cleaned with BAM wheel acid followed by Zep Citrus and a demoted wash mitt with Megs HW. The tires were cleaned with Zep 505 and the wells with LATA. The barrels were shot afterward with Aqua Bead for some protection.
Being a white car that is 5 years old and never having been decontaminated before, I knew I would have my work cut out for me. Here is IronX doing its thing:
I then washed it with Megs HW and brought it inside. I was going to be working on it the next day, so I gave it an ONR wipe down so there would be no water spotting. The next morning, I used Feynlab Prime as clay lube and used old school Riccardo yellow clay on it. That took over 1.5 hours to do! Lots of little brown contamination spots! Here it is after getting it down to bare paint:
So, swirls with notorious hard GM clear. Hmmm, my one step idea went out the window on that. (I had estimated it with needing 2 steps regardless). Now it was time to break out the new compound. It's called The Last Cut. I found out about it on Facebook. A detailer named Jace has created it. My buddy Mark had me look into it and I decided to give it a go. I tried a few side by side comparisons with Megs M100 and Shine Supply Chop Top. All testing done with black wool HD pad + 3401. I came to the conclusion that it does not cut as much as Chop Top but finishes down better. Comparing it to M100? I love M100 and I love this too. It finishes down possibly better than M100 and is just as aggressive, if not a touch more. I found the key to using it is very similar to how I use M100: a few small drops, speed 5 and work it a long time. Just gorgeous finish.
How good did it finish down? Here is a shot of the same area as the preceding shot, but done with Last Cut followed by DG Squeaky Clean to ensure I had a pure finish:
I came very close to not even bothering to give the Last Cut a chance. Why? It calls itself a compound glaze. G-L-A-Z-E is a 4 letter word in my books (yes, Canadian books take liberty with counting). Glaze=fillers=no interest by me whatsoever. Luckily I delved deeper and was guaranteed that there were no fillers in it at all. I took a leap of faith and tried it out. Now I gotta get Eric to stock it. Anyway, I ended up doing the whole car with HD black wool + LC + 3401 followed by DG Squeaky Clean + orange B/S pad + 3401. It's good enough that I was able to basically one step this white car with a wool pad!
The wheels were coated with DLux as was the trim. The tires were shot with Opti Bond from my air gun. The glass was coated with CQuartz and the windshield was coated with Fly by 30. The paint, head and tail lights were all coated with Feynlab Ceramic. It was baked with an IR lamp afterward. Here it is all done:
Paint scrapes repaired:
Thanks for looking!
First up was the wheels. The barrels and faces were cleaned with BAM wheel acid followed by Zep Citrus and a demoted wash mitt with Megs HW. The tires were cleaned with Zep 505 and the wells with LATA. The barrels were shot afterward with Aqua Bead for some protection.
Being a white car that is 5 years old and never having been decontaminated before, I knew I would have my work cut out for me. Here is IronX doing its thing:
I then washed it with Megs HW and brought it inside. I was going to be working on it the next day, so I gave it an ONR wipe down so there would be no water spotting. The next morning, I used Feynlab Prime as clay lube and used old school Riccardo yellow clay on it. That took over 1.5 hours to do! Lots of little brown contamination spots! Here it is after getting it down to bare paint:
So, swirls with notorious hard GM clear. Hmmm, my one step idea went out the window on that. (I had estimated it with needing 2 steps regardless). Now it was time to break out the new compound. It's called The Last Cut. I found out about it on Facebook. A detailer named Jace has created it. My buddy Mark had me look into it and I decided to give it a go. I tried a few side by side comparisons with Megs M100 and Shine Supply Chop Top. All testing done with black wool HD pad + 3401. I came to the conclusion that it does not cut as much as Chop Top but finishes down better. Comparing it to M100? I love M100 and I love this too. It finishes down possibly better than M100 and is just as aggressive, if not a touch more. I found the key to using it is very similar to how I use M100: a few small drops, speed 5 and work it a long time. Just gorgeous finish.
How good did it finish down? Here is a shot of the same area as the preceding shot, but done with Last Cut followed by DG Squeaky Clean to ensure I had a pure finish:
I came very close to not even bothering to give the Last Cut a chance. Why? It calls itself a compound glaze. G-L-A-Z-E is a 4 letter word in my books (yes, Canadian books take liberty with counting). Glaze=fillers=no interest by me whatsoever. Luckily I delved deeper and was guaranteed that there were no fillers in it at all. I took a leap of faith and tried it out. Now I gotta get Eric to stock it. Anyway, I ended up doing the whole car with HD black wool + LC + 3401 followed by DG Squeaky Clean + orange B/S pad + 3401. It's good enough that I was able to basically one step this white car with a wool pad!
The wheels were coated with DLux as was the trim. The tires were shot with Opti Bond from my air gun. The glass was coated with CQuartz and the windshield was coated with Fly by 30. The paint, head and tail lights were all coated with Feynlab Ceramic. It was baked with an IR lamp afterward. Here it is all done:
Paint scrapes repaired:
Thanks for looking!
