3401 or pe-14?

Buckskincolt

Buckskincolt

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So here is the question,
I have a AG gift certificate to use burning a hole in my pocket and was seriously considering the VIP 3401 WG kit. But with the success of the Meguires microfiber system and more MF systems from other suppliers on the horizon I'm thinking the 3401 is no longer the answer. I have the Griots 6" and a PC/XP to use with the MF Systems.

So do I go for this exceptional VIP deal or do I hold on to my $ and wait for a buffer sale and buy a PE-14? I have 0 experience with a rotary so it would be a lot of learning! What do you all think?
 
Well, the Flex 3401 is certainly a nice machine, it has a few things going for it that the other DA's don't, mostly the trigger. Do you already use the MF system?
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Well, the Flex 3401 is certainly a nice machine, it has a few things going for it that the other DA's don't, mostly the trigger. Do you already use the MF system?
Click to expand...

Yes I have the meguires 5" and 3" MF System.
Would I gain enough with the 3401 or would I be better served by getting a top end rotary? I'm in no hurry going into winter so I can wait for a sale. In the end I'm looking at pretty much the same $$. Maybe a little more with a rotary because I'll need some new pads and backing plates .... but I'd need the new backing plates for the 3401 too.:dunno:
 
The Flex Pe-14 is a nice machine. I borrow it from my friend when I have a mess of swirls to fix.​

As far as the Flex 3401 goes I posted a question regarding the 3401 and the megs MF system.​


After the mixed bag of answers I still decided to try my friends flex and I love it! I still use the Megs system and I like the flex for AIO's and polish jobs. It is also nice for applying LSP's.​
 
I've been dreamin about the pe-14 for a while now. I intend to pick one up when as soon as it goes on sale. Earlier this year I picked up a 9227 (my first rotary) and have had good and bad experiences with it thus far. At my current skill level, I've had difficulty finishing hologram free. That's the only negative trait I come across so far. The positives are far more numerous. It's powerful, smooth, quiet and easy to control. I don't regret buying it for one second, yet I can't wait to buy the pe-14. You have two DA's, I intend to have two rotaries. :props: Whatever you decide, both are fine machines worth their cost.
 
I have both the 3401 and the pe 14. They are 2 different machines of course but I absolutely LOVE the pe14. Since you already have 2 da's, I would step up to a flex rotory. I also have the dewalt, but the flex is in it's own league. With the megs mf kit (which you already own) there really is no point in getting the 3401.
 
Since you already have a dual action polisher I'd opt for the Flex PE-14. :props:
 
I have a PCxp, GG 3", Flex 3401, & Flex PE-14. With the advent of the MF Pads and newer tech polishes I would lean toward the Rotary. On the other had with all the new stuff coming out we may not need Rotary polishers any more either. I guess we'll see.


If you are leaning toward the rotary I would definitely wait until after SEMA as who knows what new stuff will be coming out. The tech is changing at a much faster pace now than in years past.
 
I was off work a few days but scanned the forum and saw this thread and wanted to chime in...

Both tools are top shelf in their categories but if I already owned a DA Polisher then I would go for the Flex PE14


You wont' regret it. Plus were bringing out more pad sizes including smaller pads that will make it easier for your to do correction work on thin panels using a rotary buffer.

I love my Flex PE14 and I'm confident you will love yours too....



These small, 3" foam pads work really well for buffing around,

  • Delicate areas
  • Thin panels
  • Edges

49SedanDelivery0028.jpg




Pinstriping paint tends to be more on the soft side versus hard side so you don't want to run your buffing pads over any pinstripes but you do want to buff as close to them as you can. In this picture I'm using an extension to position the pad a little farther away from the polisher so I can more easily see where the edge of my buffing pad is on the panel.

49SedanDelivery0029.jpg



When buffing thin panels, or working next to edges, hold the rotary buffer with a firm grip and focus on the task at hand...
49SedanDelivery0030.jpg



Edging - Buffing along an edge to knock it out before buffing out the rest of the major portions of the panel. By edging a panel first you don't have to buff near the edges as close when you switch over to a larger pad to buff out the panel.
49SedanDelivery0031.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks!
I can always count on AG to help keep my mind clear! So the PE 14 goes into my wish list to wait on some sort of nice sale. I was leaning this way, but then came the VIP sale and my Gift Certificate and I was tempted.
Great points made by Mike, Thank You!:props: I hadn't seen the availability of small pads for a rotary that makes them even more versatile. Now if someone @ AG can whip up a Flex sale ...

Thanks Again for all your responses!:dblthumb2:
 
I have the 3401 and I really like it. I find it no more difficult to use then the Megs G110v2. I find that its heft makes it easier to work with. What and by how much would I gain by buying a PE14-2?
 
truckbutt said:
What and by how much would I gain by buying a PE14-2?
Click to expand...


You would be getting a completely different tool. That is a tool with a direct drive rotating action. I know that's a simple answer but that's what you would gain.

It's all about using the right tool for the job.


I can sand down a car and remove my sanding marks any of these ways,

DA Polisher - PC, Megs, GG, etc.
Flex 3401
By hand
Rotary Buffer
Cyclo


For me, with the current pad and chemical technology available, my first tool of choice would be the rotary buffer because it is the fastest and more effective way to remove paint off the surface for a large job like removing sanding marks 100% out of the paint over an entire vehicle.

That's just an example but it shows a key strength of the a rotary buffer compared to the other options with current pad and chemical technology.

Removing heavy oxidation of a neglected gel-coat surface is another example of where a direct drive, rotary buffer excels just from the power it offers to aggressively abrade the surface.

The rotary buffer is not a tool everyone needs. It might be a tool that many want but for most detailing projects by the average person and even a pro detailer you can certainly accomplish most jobs using something besides a rotary buffer.

I do think that the majority of people will be better off to do the finish polishing by switching to a DA style polisher be it a PC style, Flex 3401 or a Cycle just to avoid holograms down the road.


:)
 
Having had an opportunity to use both at the detailing classes in July, I found the 3401 to be difficult to control. The PE 14 is amazing which is why I bought it. I don't think you can go wrong with either but the PE 14 is My go to tool for paint correction.
 
Can the Flex PE finish down well if not better than DAs?
 
Rei86 said:
Can the Flex PE finish down well if not better than DAs?
Click to expand...

Short answer I think would be yes, but I think it's more about the persons experience and technique that it is about the PE 14 or any tool really. I think a rotary would reward good technique or punish a person for bad technique much more so than a DA which is much more forgiving. I'm now to the point I want to learn and and gain experience with a rotary. I'm thinking the PE 14.
 
Rei86 said:
Can the Flex PE finish down well if not better than DAs?
Click to expand...
With A LOT of experience, you can finish swirl free with a rotary.

For me, defect removal with a rotary. Finish with a DA. :dblthumb2:
 
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