4 week old New Car

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Balthezor

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I did not do the new car detail. The new vehicle is a metallic black Range Rover Sport and I've driven it for about 400 miles/3 weeks since picking it up from the dealer. I am a complete newbie in regards to detailing. But after hanging around these forums this past few days, I bought a bunch of stuff to get me started. GG6 DA, pads from Lake country. Griot's 5.5 inch vented back plate.

Do you guys still recommend: Wash/Dry, Iron X, Wash/Dry, Possible clay and possible polish? Then wax?

I am a complete newbie and never used a DA before. For Waxing, I can use either Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid wax or M21. Which do you guys recommend for a newbie such as me?

Those black plastic trims are scratch magnets. Do you guys recommend CarPro DLux Plastic coating after polishing that area?[h=1][/h]
Much appreciated
 
If you've never done it, now is the perfect time to get a baseline established.


For that reason, I'd go all out on decon. Wash it, dry it, Iron X, wash again, definitely clay it, possibly another wash even. Then I would decide from there where the process goes. That being a pretty valuable/high end car I'd want to start looking into correcting some of the swirls that are no doubt in the paint from the dealer. A light polish is the way to go here, or even an all in one polish such as McKees 360 or HD Speed. These will leave behind a durable sealant that should last a long time for you.

If it were my vehicle, I'd want to coat it rather than sealing/waxing. But if you're new enough that you haven't used a DA then you probably don't want to go to the level of coating.


M21 has some fine abrasive in it if I remember correctly and/or filling properties so you wouldn't want to use that over top of an AIO. I would instead use that as an AIO as it leaves behind a synthetic sealant and should help to correct and/or fill the remaining fine scratches and swirls. Then you could top with the ultimate liquid wax if you so desired.
 
I love Griots BOSS line, fast correcting cream is a great compound. I'd look at the BOSS line of polishes. I also like Meguiar's products.

Your process seems spot on. I'd go with a sealant. More user friendly. Two of my and the forum's favorites are FK1000p and Blackfire Wet Diamond sealant. M21 has good reviews, but never have used it myself.

Welcome to AGO!
 
I'm a huge fan of jescar (menzerna) power lock, another great sealant if you're looking for something new.


Sent from my iPhone using AGOnline
 
Pretty sure you dont have to wash THEN dry before the Iron-X. If you just wash it then let it drip for a few min and take a break (Unless you are in direct sunlight) then spray the IX. Then wash again, rinse, then start with the clay with no drying needed cause the water and soap can help you greatly with lubrication.
 
Thank you all.

So no polish. Just M21 (with its slight abrasiveness) and Im good to go?

Which of Griot's Boss Line do you recommend for my particular car?
 
The best advice I can share with you is pick a product line and stick with that line, learn the product line and the processes and wormk to master them.

Have plenty of pads, atleast 6 orange, 6 white for polishing and a couple blue or black for applying lsp.

For results, value and user friendliness I like the HD line. It's affordable, excellent results and very user friendly.

3D Professional Detailing Products, HD car care, 3D HD

HD Speed, exceptional AIO:

3D HD Speed

HD Polish + Excellent polish, easy to use and long working time

3D HD Polish+ 16 oz. NEW FORMULA!

Finish off with HD Poxy and that bad boy will look awesome, it makes darker colors look dripping wet!

3D HD Poxy - Montan Wax & Sealant NEW LOOK!

HD Speed topped with Poxy:

View attachment 60298

View attachment 60302

370Z before HD

View attachment 60299


370Z after HD Adapt and sealed with HD Poxy (Adapt was discontinued Polish + fits the bill now )

View attachment 60300

View attachment 60301
 
Balthezor said:
I did not do the new car detail. The new vehicle is a metallic black Range Rover Sport and I've driven it for about 400 miles/3 weeks since picking it up from the dealer. I am a complete newbie in regards to detailing. But after hanging around these forums this past few days, I bought a bunch of stuff to get me started. GG6 DA, pads from Lake country. Griot's 5.5 inch vented back plate.

Do you guys still recommend: Wash/Dry, Iron X, Wash/Dry, Possible clay and possible polish? Then wax?

I am a complete newbie and never used a DA before. For Waxing, I can use either Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid wax or M21. Which do you guys recommend for a newbie such as me?

Those black plastic trims are scratch magnets. Do you guys recommend CarPro DLux Plastic coating after polishing that area?[h=1][/h]
Much appreciated
Click to expand...

Let me answer your question on DLUX. It is a common product for plastic trim. It can be a little tricky to apply but it is not hard to figure it out. Gyeon Trim and GTechniq C4 are a little easier to use as far as trim coatings go. There is always the good option of Wolfgang Exterior Trim Sealant or McKee's 37 Trim product.

With claying comes the risk marring the paint. So you may need to polish or use a cleaner wax.

But seeing as you have M21 or ultimate liquid wax then I would recommend to polish. See my comment below. Either sealant will work fine. ULW has newer polymers and better hydrophobic properties. It will also last a little longer than M21. You can always try the other down the line.

As far as chemically decontaminating the paint Mike Phillips has his aggressive wash method which works very well. You can alter the method to best suit your needs.

The Aggressive Approach to Washing a Car

On video around the 9 min mark


You may also want to watch this video as well if you are new to polishing


Balthezor said:
Thank you all.

So no polish. Just M21 (with its slight abrasiveness) and Im good to go?

Which of Griot's Boss Line do you recommend for my particular car?
Click to expand...

M21 doesn't contain abrasives. It's a finishing sealant. If you wish you to polish you have many polishes available to you. If you want to learn then Meguiar's ultimate compound and polish are a good starting point.
 
You guys are great. I really appreciate all the responses.

Before I do anything to my car, I will "practice" detailing my inlaws car. I don't think they ever washed it(I might have a few times) and not parked in the garage. Should be a good challenge.
 
custmsprty said:
The best advice I can share with you is pick a product line and stick with that line, learn the product line and the processes and wormk to master them.

Have plenty of pads, atleast 6 orange, 6 white for polishing and a couple blue or black for applying lsp.

For results, value and user friendliness I like the HD line. It's affordable, excellent results and very user friendly.

3D Professional Detailing Products, HD car care, 3D HD

HD Speed, exceptional AIO:

3D HD Speed

HD Polish + Excellent polish, easy to use and long working time

3D HD Polish+ 16 oz. NEW FORMULA!

Finish off with HD Poxy and that bad boy will look awesome, it makes darker colors look dripping wet!

3D HD Poxy - Montan Wax & Sealant NEW LOOK!

HD Speed topped with Poxy:

View attachment 60298

View attachment 60302

370Z before HD

View attachment 60299


370Z after HD Adapt and sealed with HD Poxy (Adapt was discontinued Polish + fits the bill now )

View attachment 60300

View attachment 60301
Click to expand...

Cannot go wrong with HD Polish or Speed. Just the thought of using Speed makes me want to find something to polish:)
 
Balthezor said:
Thank you all.

So no polish. Just M21 (with its slight abrasiveness) and Im good to go?

Which of Griot's Boss Line do you recommend for my particular car?
Click to expand...

I'd look at a more aggressive polish, HD Polish+, HD Speed, Meguiar's 205, or Menzerna line of polishes. In the BOSS line I'd look at getting the whole BOSS line. It will only cost you $65-80 depending on sales for all 3 polishes plus their sealant.
 
My current plan for my car after the initial decontamination is to use Griot's Boss Finishing Sealant. Do you guys recommend doing a coat of 3D HD Poxy after using the Finishing Sealant or is that good enough?
 
Balthezor said:
My current plan for my car after the initial decontamination is to use Griot's Boss Finishing Sealant. Do you guys recommend doing a coat of 3D HD Poxy after using the Finishing Sealant or is that good enough?
Click to expand...

after you use finishing sealant, i would leave it and not top it with anything (let it cure on it's own uninterrupted). if you feel the itch to top it, wait at least until the next wash if necessary. you can always use the GG rinseless wash & wax (dilute 15:1 for rinse aid & gloss/protection enhancer) to give it a little boost in between washes...
 
I just picked up a new Ram yesterday. Dealer was not allowed to touch it. I was a 99 mile ride home. As soon as ai got home, the sun was low so started my work. Chemical Guy Citrus wash with heavily diluted in foam cannon and 2BM. After a good wash, still kinda wet, I did Iron X, rinse and another wash. I use DI water so I just parked it. Today I did a fine clay then stared the poishing. Since I am gonna coat with Cquartz I used Essence with gloss pad. Since the truck sat on lot for a few months and was never wash I had a few bird poo marks on roof and hood I fixed with MF pad and 105. Those spots were wiped with IPA then leveled out with Essence. Gonna let the essence sit overnite, then do Eraser (IPA) to remove any oils. Letting the Essence sit let's the Silica harden up. Then it's cquartz.

It's really amazing how "new paint" can use a good polish.
 
Balthezor said:
My current plan for my car after the initial decontamination is to use Griot's Boss Finishing Sealant. Do you guys recommend doing a coat of 3D HD Poxy after using the Finishing Sealant or is that good enough?
Click to expand...

Agree with Visitor, leave it alone. Wait a few washes or a month or two. Then look into a spray wax or quick detailer to bring back that freshly detailed look.
 
Salmonbum said:
I just picked up a new Ram yesterday. Dealer was not allowed to touch it. I was a 99 mile ride home. As soon as ai got home, the sun was low so started my work. Chemical Guy Citrus wash with heavily diluted in foam cannon and 2BM. After a good wash, still kinda wet, I did Iron X, rinse and another wash. I use DI water so I just parked it. Today I did a fine clay then stared the poishing. Since I am gonna coat with Cquartz I used Essence with gloss pad. Since the truck sat on lot for a few months and was never wash I had a few bird poo marks on roof and hood I fixed with MF pad and 105. Those spots were wiped with IPA then leveled out with Essence. Gonna let the essence sit overnite, then do Eraser (IPA) to remove any oils. Letting the Essence sit let's the Silica harden up. Then it's cquartz.

It's really amazing how "new paint" can use a good polish.
Click to expand...

It still amazes me how one improper car wash can totally wreck a car's finish. Smart move on not letting the dealership touch your new truck.

About the new cars needing a good polish. Non-detailing, non-paint obsessed people, don't realize that washing a car does not truly clean the paint. Decontaminating, chemically, mechanically, then polishing "cleans the paint".
 
Balthezor said:
I did not do the new car detail. The new vehicle is a metallic black Range Rover Sport and I've driven it for about 400 miles/3 weeks since picking it up from the dealer. I am a complete newbie in regards to detailing. But after hanging around these forums this past few days, I bought a bunch of stuff to get me started. GG6 DA, pads from Lake country. Griot's 5.5 inch vented back plate.

Do you guys still recommend: Wash/Dry, Iron X, Wash/Dry, Possible clay and possible polish? Then wax?

I am a complete newbie and never used a DA before. For Waxing, I can use either Meguiar's Ultimate Liquid wax or M21. Which do you guys recommend for a newbie such as me?

Those black plastic trims are scratch magnets. Do you guys recommend CarPro DLux Plastic coating after polishing that area?[h=1][/h]
Much appreciated
Click to expand...

Wash it, Rinse thoroughly to sheet off as much water as you can, then hit with iron-x. no need to dry it first. Rinse thoroughly, no need to wash again. However, I do use Nano Sponges and really soapy water to physically decontaminate vehicles, thus I'm essentially washing them again :) Dry and get ready for buffer.
 
So I initially ordered a GG6 as my first DA. I have wrist issues and when I held that thing. Wow. It is very heavy. And I had a difficult time trying to grip it. I tried a co-workers Meguiar's MT300 and I immediately ordered that and returned the GG6. I know the GG6 is highly praised but it is very bulky for a newbie like me.
 
Got another question. For a new car that the dealership probably waxed. Do I need to use paint prep like Griots paint prep following washing/ironx/clay and before using Griots Finishing Sealant?
 
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