68 Firebird Single Stage Metallic Paint Restoration

[ryanfelix]

Hey Mike,
First, I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to write your many articles. I can’t imagine how many people (and cars) have/will benefit from all the expert advice you’ve shared.
And second, I want to apologize in advance for the long message. I imagine you stay very busy. The car is just very IMPORTANT to me (as you say), so I’m trying to be thorough.


I’m working on my brothers all original, 1 owner (he just inherited it from my grandparents), 68 Firebird with metallic single stage April Gold paint. I’ve read over your article, “The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints” maybe half a dozen times, as well as many of your other articles like the 69 thunderbird with the 3D products and the 53 Hudson with Wayne Carini.
I did a test spot and it didn’t evaporate after a 2 weeks in the sun, so I believe the paint is stable. I’m currently on my 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] coat of Meguiars #7. I just wanted to show you where I’m at and what I have planned, and ask if you have any advice for me? Anything you'd do differently?


Here’s what I’ve done:
1. Wash: Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo and microfiber wash-mit. (I feel like the wash caused more fading, so maybe I already messed up here, but it was just so dirty)
2. Clay: Nanoskin AutoScrub medium grade mit and Nanoskin glide (48 years of contaminants…)
(I found your 69 thunderbird 3D article after I had already started with the oils. Now I’m wishing I would of used CarPro Iron X too. I guess the #7 oils and washcloth take off contaminants too though…)
3. Meguiars #7 with washcloth. I’m on the 3[SUP]rd[/SUP] coat now. I let the first coat soak 24hrs.


This is what I plan to proceed with…
4. A few more coats of Meguiars #7
5. Buff: Flex 3401 DA orbital polisher, White 6” Kompressor Pad, Pinnacle advanced swirl remover
6. Buff: Flex 3401 DA orbital polisher, White 6” Kompressor Pad, Pinnacle advanced finishing polish
(I have other Kompressor pads as well as 6.5” Lake Country CCS pads too, if you have any opinion on either choice for this particular project? I was a little concerned if the diminishing abrasives would work as well with the Kompressor pads? )
7. XMT 360 ??? Or would you recommend using a product like Wolfgang Perfekt Finish Paint Prep to prepare the surface for wax, OR would the wax still adhere to the paint if I were to just wax right over the oils left behind from the Meguiars #7 and pinnacle polish? I worry about removing the #7 oils from the paint. And I also like the idea of the Pinnacle lubricants hiding some of the scratches (I know the pinnacle polish doesn’t have any fillers, but as I understood it, the lubricants left over still do hide the appearance of scratches to some degree).
8. Wax: Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax
9. Wax: Pinnacle Souveran Liquid Spray Wax

Interior: Meguiars #40. Meguiars #39 (if necessary)
Exterior Trim: Meguiars #40
Tires: McKee’s 37 Tire and Rubber Rejuvenator. McKee’s 37 Tire Coating
Aluminum Rims: Eagle One All Wheel and Tire Cleaner. Nevr-Dull. Pinnacle Signature Series II Wax
Chrome: Nevr-Dull. Pinnacle Signature Series II
Glass: Nanoskin Autoscrub medium grade mit and Nanoskin Glide. SprayWay Glass Cleaner


You can see where I did my test stop on the trunk lid.
The passenger side of the car and the driver fender were touched up.
The 3rd to last paint pic is: After being washed
The 2nd to last paint pic is: After being clayed.
The last paint pic is after the 2nd coat of #7 was removed.

The ground is wet in the photos because it wasn't until after I had finished cleaning the first wheel that I realized..... I forgot to take the before pics!!! So I stopped, rolled the hose back up, put away all my supplies, and took those precious before shots

Thank you in advance for your time!

-Ryan


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[Knozzmoeking]

Wow. That second to last paint pic really shows the value of the #7 on single stage paint.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

First....


Let me say thank you for your trust.

Anyone working on a car like this where it's important to them to do everything they can to preserve their car's original single stage paint, then somehow finds my article on how to restore single stage paint and trusts what I've shared in the article....

Well thank you... that means a lot to me.


Second....

Thank you for getting GREAT BEFORE SHOTS!


As I share in my original #7 article, the power in the after shots is created in the before shots...


In fact, here's the link to that article and it's SO IMPORTANT to get the before shots because after you do the paint restoration you can never go back in time and get the before shots. Then it's just your word when you try to describe how bad the paint was before you started. Nothing wrong with a person's word but great before shots always trump a person's description via words.

Here's the article for everyone that will read this thread into the future...

The power in the after shots is created in the before shots



To make your pictures easier for the entire world to see I downloaded them, then uploaded them to the AGO gallery so they can be inserted...


Before

AFTER

And an interior shot sowing how well the interior has held up over the last 48 years...

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Now let me see if I can add anything to help you through this project...

Hey Mike,
First, I just wanted to say thank you for taking the time to write your many articles. I can’t imagine how many people (and cars) have/will benefit from all the expert advice you’ve shared.

And second, I want to apologize in advance for the long message. I imagine you stay very busy. The car is just very IMPORTANT to me (as you say), so I’m trying to be thorough.

Thank you for your kind words and never worry about the length of a post or thread... I know I don't.


A long time ago when I was studying writing I read from a how-to author to never worry about the length of your writing as long as what your writing is interesting.

If what you write is interesting people will read every word. If what you're writing is boring... no one will read it.

I’m working on my brothers all original, 1 owner (he just inherited it from my grandparents), 68 Firebird with metallic single stage April Gold paint.

Wow! How cool is this? Looks like your brother is lucky to have you to help him save the paint. :dblthumb2:

I’ve read over your article,

The Secret to Removing Oxidation and Restoring a Show Car Finish to Antique Single Stage Paints


maybe half a dozen times, as well as many of your other articles like the 69 Thunderbird with the 3D products and the 53 Hudson with Wayne Carini.

I think the above article is over 10,000 words.

It's also on its way to 500,000,00 views. that's almost a HALF MILLION VIEWS! Not bad considering the majority of people own a car with a clearcoat.

:laughing:

I did a test spot and it didn’t evaporate after a 2 weeks in the sun, so I believe the paint is stable.

For those reading this into the future, see category #9 in this article,

Paint Condition Categories

I’m currently on my 3rd coat of Meguiars #7. I just wanted to show you where I’m at and what I have planned, and ask if you have any advice for me? Anything you'd do differently?

So far so good...

Here’s what I’ve done:

1. Wash: Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo and microfiber wash-mitt. (I feel like the wash caused more fading, so maybe I already messed up here, but it was just so dirty)

2. Clay: Nanoskin Autoscrub medium grade mitt and Nanoskin glide (48 years of contaminants…)

(I found your 69 Thunderbird 3D article after I had already started with the oils. Now I’m wishing I would of used CarPro Iron X too. I guess the #7 oils and washcloth take off contaminants too though…)

3. Meguiars #7 with washcloth. I’m on the 3rd coat now. I let the first coat soak 24hrs.

Sounds perfect. Don't worry about not using the Iron X. This is an optional step and by the time you do everything you're going to do to the paint you'll probably have removed any iron contamination.

This is what I plan to proceed with…

4. A few more coats of Meguiars #7

5. Buff: Flex 3401 DA orbital polisher, White 6” Kompressor Pad, Pinnacle advanced swirl remover

6. Buff: Flex 3401 DA orbital polisher, White 6” Kompressor Pad, Pinnacle advanced finishing polish

(I have other Kompressor pads as well as 6.5” Lake Country CCS pads too, if you have any opinion on either choice for this particular project? I was a little concerned if the diminishing abrasives would work as well with the Kompressor pads? )

The Kompressor pads will work just fine and and the white polishing with the Pinnacle Advanced Swirl Remover and the black finishing with the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing is a good combo and a safe combo and that's what you want for paint like this.

7. XMT 360 ??? Or would you recommend using a product like Wolfgang Perfekt Finish Paint Prep to prepare the surface for wax, OR would the wax still adhere to the paint if I were to just wax right over the oils left behind from the Meguiars #7 and pinnacle polish?

Here's what you want to do...

After the last machine polishing step, that's the Pinnacle Advanced Finishing Polish step, NEXT - reapply a wet application of the #7. At this point you can do it by hand or machine but if it were me I would probably keep it simple and simply massage on the #7 by hand.

This will re-gorge the paint with the TS oils in the #7.

Then wipe off about 90% to 95%, and then apply the wax. Don't use the XMT 360 at this point as it won't be needed after the two-step polishing process you use.

I worry about removing the #7 oils from the paint. And I also like the idea of the Pinnacle lubricants hiding some of the scratches (I know the pinnacle polish doesn’t have any fillers, but as I understood it, the lubricants left over still do hide the appearance of scratches to some degree).

That's why I never worry about removing 100% of the #7 before waxing. Just wipe most of it off and then go to wax.

8. Wax: Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax

Perfect. You're going to love this product on this paint. Apply a thin coat by hand or machine. After you cover the entire car you can go ahead and start removing it starting at where you started and then follow your path of travel for applying it only now removing it.

9. Wax: Pinnacle Souveran Liquid Spray Wax

You won't need this after applying and removing the Pinnacle Signature Series II Carnauba Paste Wax. You can use it down the road before a car show or date night.

Interior: Meguiars #40. Meguiars #39 (if necessary)
Exterior Trim: Meguiars #40

Great products for old vinyl. Use terry cloth wash cloths to apply, scrub and wipe off the excess. This products been around for around 40 to 50 years and is a very good product for vinyl.

Tires: McKee’s 37 Tire and Rubber Rejuvenator. McKee’s 37 Tire Coating

The key with this combo is to scrub the tires until the foam stays white. The apply 2, 3 even 4 coats of the tire coating.

Aluminum Rims: Eagle One All Wheel and Tire Cleaner. Nevr-Dull. Pinnacle Signature Series II Wax

Looks good...

Chrome: Nevr-Dull. Pinnacle Signature Series II

After you buff all the paint with the first step, using the same pad that's on the buffer buzz over all the chrome.

Glass: Nanoskin Autoscrub medium grade mitt and Nanoskin Glide.

After you use the Nanoskin Autoscrub on the glass follow with machine polishing with the Advanced Swirl Remover, it will remove any film still on the glass.

SprayWay Glass Cleaner

Good here. This will remove any polishing oils from the polish.

You can see where I did my test stop on the trunk lid.

Yes. The square section on the right hand side.

Single stage metallics are the HARDEST type of paint to restore since the aluminum flake oxidizes INSIDE the paint. Also, if you buff too much you can leave Tiger Stripes which cannot be corrected.

The passenger side of the car and the driver fender were touched up.
The 3rd to last paint pic is: After being washed
The 2nd to last paint pic is: After being clayed.
The last paint pic is after the 2nd coat of #7 was removed.

The ground is wet in the photos because it wasn't until after I had finished cleaning the first wheel that I realized..... I forgot to take the before pics!!! So I stopped, rolled the hose back up, put away all my supplies, and took those precious before shots

Thank you in advance for your time!

-Ryan

Excellent excellent job my friend!

What a cool car and a great project. Savor this project because the opportunity to restore single stage paint on a true muscle car was just reduced by 1.


Thank you so much for trusting the #7 Rub Down Technique for restoring antique single paint and thank you for capturing the before pictures and then taking the time to share your experience with this write-up.

A great write-up with pictures takes a lot of time so please know it is greatly appreciated.


:dblthumb2:

 

[57BORNTORUN]

Excellent restore of a somewhat rare factory color.GM offered different shades of their gold colors in the late 60`s across their model lines. Unfortunately the consumer was not as receptive.:dblthumb2:

 

[ryanfelix]

Thank you so much Mike for taking the time to answers ALL my questions! I didn’t expect that kind of response, but really appreciate it!

And thank you for fixing the pics! It was awesome to see them posted up full size!



Half a million views!?!

That is such a huge accomplishment. I remember Nido Qubein saying something along the lines of, “every job out there is ultimately about performing a service for people.” Hearing him say that made me see my job differently. My point is that you’ve really provided a great service for people. There’s NO WAY I would have been able to do this without your articles.



Thanks for all the great advice!

I’m going to do exactly as you recommended...

Thanks for explaining how to finish off with the #7 before waxing. That was the part I was the most lost on.

I like the idea about buffing the chrome and windows. I bet they’ll really shine. And I’ll be thankful not to have to do the chrome by hand!



Tiger Stripes….

I was wondering what those lines were on the trunk. You think those are tiger stripes? The test spot I did was only Meguiars #7, but it really brought them out (at least at that point in the process) compared to the rest of the car, which was dirty and faded. And I just happened to do my test spot on a part of the car where they were really bad.



My brother keeps telling me how much he appreciates me doing the car, and I keep trying to tell him that my motives are selfish! Lol. I’ve been enjoying every second of it! It’s been super rewarding and I’ve already learned a lot. Man my arms are sore though!

I’ll be sure and keep you posted. I can’t wait to upload the after pics when I’m done!

Found the original owners manual and sales order today... $3,376.40 Brand New!

 

[ryanfelix]

Thank you! It's already looking great, so I can't wait to see what it looks like when I'm done!

I remember when I was little thinking, “what an ugly color!… and matching seats too?! Why would Grandpa choose that”?
Now that I’m older I think it’s pretty sweet! lol. Probably because it's just a look into another time....You certainly don’t see cars that color today. And definitely not with the matching green/gold interior!

 

[Dereksdtail]

Looks awesome so far man, I love working with old paints, it makes you use your brain and experimenting a little more than usual. Have fun and keep us updated!

 

[ryanfelix]

Thank you! I agree. It has been a challenge, just learning and completing the work, but that's what makes it so rewarding. Not to mention the satisfaction of bringing something so dull and dirty back to life.

A few reputable body shops told my family the paint couldn't be restored. They must not have read Mikes article yet!

Definitely scared me when Mike explained about how metallics are so hard to restore. So I've tried not to get my hopes up, but have been really happy with the results so far!

This is the first single stage car that I've ever worked on, so doing my best to do it right. Just taking my time and not rushing through it... To be safe, but also just to make it last.

Thanks for the support!

 

[Dereksdtail]

I just finished this up today, it was nasty oxidized and the guy was thinking about repainting View attachment 51233

 

[ryanfelix]

Wow! Looks like new! The chrome looks great too. I bet he was pretty stoked.

How long did it take you?

 

[Dereksdtail]

I worked on it off and on over a week, he was amazed!

 

[ryanfelix]

That's awesome! That makes it fun. Makes me feel better that you didn't complete that in a day, because I've been working on this off and on for a few weeks. Everything is taking much longer on this car compared to the newer clear-coated cars I've done. Like you said though, it's a challenge and that's what makes it fun.

 

[Dereksdtail]

That's awesome! That makes it fun. Makes me feel better that you didn't complete that in a day, because I've been working on this off and on for a few weeks. Everything is taking much longer on this car compared to the newer clear-coated cars I've done. Like you said though, it's a challenge and that's what makes it fun.

Every time i get a project like this I let the owner know that it will take some time and usually they aren't in a rush anyways. My attention span is pretty short anyways