AIO for minor holograms.

ShineTimeDetail

ShineTimeDetail

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I did a black challenger and finished with 205 with a rotary. I really didn't see any holograms but there may have been a few under the right light. What all in one product could I use to elimination and swirls. If I can skip the orbital buffer with a polish that would be great.
 
Fast Eddie said:
Sonax Paint Cleaner
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AFAIK that doesn't have any protection in it, so it's not really an AIO.

Edit: Well it says it has a little carnuba in it, so I take that back. Probably not any noticeable protection though.
 
I never ever try to finish out with rotary ... Just to darn hard and those who say they jewel I bet they marr paint as well. Ut as jeweling is done in the polishing stage all the oils mask it all
Trust me I used to say I "jewel" paint until a customer knowledgable on paint came back 2-3 months later after many washes and sure enough there was some light marring and holograms.. I now just use the rotary for corrections and gel coats and finish out with the flex 3401
 
Flannigan said:
AFAIK that doesn't have any protection in it, so it's not really an AIO.

Edit: Well it says it has a little carnuba in it, so I take that back. Probably not any noticeable protection though.
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Yeah, I'm not sure about how much protection it has, but it works great for removing light holograms. DI description of sonax paint cleaner is :AIO product that deep cleans, polishes and protects.....
the "protects" part is debatable though.
 
I believe you can finish with a rotary. I can't and don't know many that can but I think its possible. I think the paint polished with a rotary looks better than a using an orbital.
 
ShineTimeDetail said:
I believe you can finish with a rotary. I can't and don't know many that can but I think its possible. I think the paint polished with a rotary looks better than a using an orbital.
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If you can't why did you try it?


I think the paint polished with a rotary looks better than a using an orbital.[/QUOTE]

Have you ever seen two side by side... Barely if at all noticeable and it's just a temporary glow
 
I didn't really try...when I was done with the rotary I pulled the car in the sun and saw no holograms....usually I will see holograms that's why I posted this question.
 
theres a bunch of folks that finish down with a rotary on here
 
Of course you can finish with a rotary. It's like anything else...just the right product and pads. I will say that there's much more of a learning curve to finishing with a rotary. But, it's not rocket science.

The thing about a rotary, is that there's SO many ways to screw up your final buff. The wrong pad, wrong speed, bad technique, dirty pad, less than efficient claying, left over previous product, etc, etc, etc.

I've had so many workers come through my shop that say they can use a rotary and have for many years....then I say "alright, here's all my pads, and product...do this car and I'll check it out". Never fails...I look over a few minutes later, and they're standing there wondering what the hell are all these pads for, and why is there so much product, haha.

I personally don't like to finish with 205 (on a rotary). I find that 205 with pretty much any pad has quite a bit of cut for a polish. I'll use something light like #7. I like #7 cause it's oily, and spreads really nice and creates a smooth final polish. That's just me though.
 
Kristopher1129 said:
The thing about a rotary, is that there's SO many ways to screw up your final buff. The wrong pad, wrong speed, bad technique, dirty pad, less than efficient claying, left over previous product, etc, etc, etc.
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First let me say I have little experience with a rotory. I'm virtually a newbie.

With so many variables, and knowing of those variables, how can one know which of them caused a paint surface to look less than spectacular? No less than 6 variables were mentioned plus an additional etc., etc., etc. Huh?

A person makes a correction, so you think, and it doesn't work. Then what? Make two simultaneious changes and hope for a better turn out? If you made two, or more simultaneous changes to get that perfect finish, how can anyone 100% reliably say which of the corrections made the difference?

I see this no different than any other problem in life, or a job. Work with one variable at a time.

It would make sense that if you know what caused it, you should know how to prevent it in the first place. A DA seems almost full-proof in this regard.
 
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ShineTimeDetail said:
I did a black challenger and finished with 205 with a rotary. I really didn't see any holograms but there may have been a few under the right light. What all in one product could I use to elimination and swirls. If I can skip the orbital buffer with a polish that would be great.
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D151 should do the trick. Basically it's a AIO, loves the rotary, and you can go to town with it.
 
SonOfOC said:
D151 should do the trick. Basically it's a AIO, loves the rotary, and you can go to town with it.
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+1 on D151
best cut in AIO (that I have seen), finish great even with a DA, and at a very economical price!
12oz for $6.99, 32oz for $12.95.
:props:
 
SonOfOC said:
D151 should do the trick. Basically it's a AIO, loves the rotary, and you can go to town with it.
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D151 is a no no. Its good for one steppers on DA's but not on a rotary. Way too aggressive to totally finish down hologram free. If the op is having trouble with m205 which is less aggressive, he will definitely have problems with d151.

Stick to a light AIO like opt poli-seal/xmt 360.
 
fredcandetail said:
I never ever try to finish out with rotary ...

Trust me I used to say I "jewel" paint until a customer knowledgeable on paint came back 2-3 months later after many washes and sure enough there was some light marring and holograms..
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This is my experience also... after time goes by and the paint is washed enough and then inspected in full, overhead sun, if there is any hologramming, light or heavy it will show up and a knowledgeable customer will know where it came from.

fredcandetail said:
I now just use the rotary for corrections and gel coats and finish out with the flex 3401
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Change the action of the tool
I agree and this is what I always recommend to people if they want to ENSURE there are no rotary buffers swirls or holograms in the paint simply change the action of the tool. That is switch to a tool that both rotates and oscillates.

To me, and this is just my opinion, if you want to ensure 100% you're leaving a 100% hologram or rotary buffer swirl free finish then for your last machine step change the action of your tool by switching over to a Flex 3401, PC style polisher or even the Cyclo Polisher.

Time-proven remedy and insurance.


ShineTimeDetail said:
I didn't really try...when I was done with the rotary I pulled the car in the sun and saw no holograms....
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Pulling the car into the sun isn't enough, you would have to first chemically strip the paint in order to accurately inspect. This is the part that most people don't do and if you decide to do it you're going to risk marring the paint in the process PLUS it's going to ADD time to the job.

john b said:
theres a bunch of folks that finish down with a rotary on here
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I've been hearing and reading this for decades... what I don't see is where they describe in detail their process of chemically stripping the paint to prove they left the paint 100% hologram free and all the before and after pictures that back up their words.

It's not always about how GREAT the detailer is it has to do with both the paint and the fact that you have a pad rotating in a single, circular motion on a material that I describe, as do others as scratch-sensitive.

The combination of pad, product, pressure and rotating action imparts it's own mark into the paint, even if it's incredibly light or shallow it doesn't matter as it will show up over time on dark colors.

Also, if you're finishing out on a white or light colored car with only a rotary buffer that's a lot easier to claim 100% swirl free because it's a lot more difficult to inspect and see after chemically stripping, (which I still never see anyone documenting), unless you really work at it.


I posted quite a bit about this topic here and no one ever challenged it...

How do you stay away from holograms?


The true test is always black paint, doesn't matter if it's single stage or basecoat/clearcoat as black will reveal everything. The point being is if hologramming is taking place on black paint then it's taking place on all paint it's just that you're eyes cannot easily see it.


:)
 
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