If you want to do the best for your guitar, use non-polymerized Walnut oil on the fretboard. Part of the reason you need to use 0000 steel wool before conditioning the fretboard is due to the residues left by your Howard's Wax-N-Feed, most likely they are beeswax, as beeswax will not penetrate the wood. Your fingers, both due to body heat and natural skin oils, is reacting with the residues to make up a gummy residue that you are removing with the 0000 steel wool and Pro Clean Up . By the way, the Howard's Feed-N-Wax contains petroleum distillates most likely, as seen from the "combustible" warning. Petroleum distillates should not be used on natural wood, it causes the wood to to dry out and take a desiccated, dry, and pale appearance. The Orange oil is doing the same.
At your next fretboard cleaning, use the Pro Clean Up and steel wool to get to the bare wood. Then, use the Walnut oil instead of the Howard's Feed-N_Wax. Put the Walnut oil on sparingly, wait a minute, and then wipe of. Doing 3-4 frets at a time is probably best. I am willing to bet that you won't be needing the Pro-Clean Up and possibly not even the steel wool going forward. You should be able to reduce your fretboard cleaning frequency to once every year, or even two (will depend on the individual, and whether or not they wash their hands before playing the instrument). As a bonus, you will find that your fretboard feels really nice.
The non-polymerized (sometimes called raw) walnut oil is the easiest to find wood oil that is closest to the natural rosewood oil that was in the fretboard when it was first cut. Rosewood oil would be best, but that is horrendously expensive, and very, very hard to find. You can find furniture/woodworking grade walnut oil at most woodworking shops ( I got mine at Lee Valley Tools, a $15 can is good for life). Its most common use is as a finish on wood salad bowls.
