Anyone else hate their Flex 3401?

[7.3powerstroke]

If I were to buy hybrids what two pads should I start with? I was thinking orange and white. Most of the vehicles I work on are at least 15 years old and have never been polished before. And is there any way to sand down the 4 3/8" plate to make it work with the hybrids instead of buying the LC kit?

 

[WaxMaster1]

I just picked up a 3401 and while I agree it gets hot, it (at first and 2nd impression) appears to be an awesome tool. I look for reasons to use it because it's a new toy of mine.

 

[Eric M.]

Just ordered all the hybrid pads and menzerna SF4000 (already have fg400 and love it on the Rupes)

You guys are really good at getting me to spend money lol

If you want the most cut from your 3401; tuff buff black wool pads are the way to go. Combine that with the FG400 and there's not much it can't handle.

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Same here. Would be nice to have one set up for 5" and one for 6.5"

I teach this practice in my 3-day boot camp detailing class. That is time is money and instead of swapping backing plates on a single flex to match pads to panels get 2 Flex 3401s and set one up with 5" pads and leave one stock to run 6.5" and 7" pads.

Besides saving you time I know some guys when making the backing plate swap mix up the bolts and use the wrong bolt with the wrong backing plate and sometimes the wrong washer with the wrong backing plate and this will damage the backing plates and the inner ring gear on the Flex.

By setting up two machines you avoid the time factor and the bolt/washer mistake factor.

I do show the exaxt way the bolts and washers assemble the backing plates in my Flex 3401 how-to book.

 

[dlc95]

I've noticed that when I try to work too fast, the 3401 reminds me to slow down and pay attention to the task at hand.

Very minor technique adjustments, and it's smooth sailing.

 

[HUMP DIESEL]

If it is getting hot, run it up to 6 and let is free spin for a little while. I know that the PE-14 is set to pull in more air that way. We were told this at a meeting with the Flex Rep.

I have a FLEX and the Rupes 15. I like both. I still need to buy some hybrid pads for the FLEX, because I know from Mike's techniques that those work great with it. I am also getting a PE-14 soon.

HUMP

 

[tenblade2001]

If anyone hates their flex so much that they want to sell it..PM me PLEASE

 

[MIsnowman]

If anyone hates their flex so much that they want to sell it..PM me PLEASE

Haha. That's how I got mine actually. I got a great deal on it. Now I just need to figure out if I like it or not.

 

[cardaddy]

If anyone hates their flex so much that they want to sell it..PM me PLEASE

Brutha... You've not bought that puppy yet?

Like I said in our emails... it's a shame you're not closer. I'd be happy to let you borrow it.

Now if you wanna bring me and CarMomma up to Knoxville for a long weekend I could be convinced to bring it, (and the Duetto) with me. And perhaps a boatload of various other tools.

 

[JSou]

If anyone hates their flex so much that they want to sell it..PM me PLEASE

This or a Rupes you no longer want.

 

[Evan.J]

I love my Flex!

 

[DaveT435]

I have a 3401 and love it, love the pe8 as well and am going to add a pe14. I'm debating on the g15 or g21. I have heard the long throw machines finish better. I know there are so many variables, pads, compounds and polishes, technique. I would like opinions from those who own a Flex and a long throw machine...do you feel like the long throw machine finishes better?? Op said he feels it does...

 

[Hoytman]

It would be interesting to see how many highly skilled rotary (guys like Mike and Renny) users actually find a need for any other tools. I would say they can do anything they need to with a rotary...and just might keep a da around to ensure themselves to be 99.9% hologram free.

I have a rotary and a da, along with a dynabrade attachment (it's heavy but has lots of power) and for not more than I do they fit my needs. I would like a Flex 3401, but it's hard to justify that price when it won't be used that much. If I could get a used one at a good price that's been well cared for, then I might consider it, but 'till then I'm good.

 

[DetailDrivenEugene]

I have used my 3401 on 2 vehicles. I am really trying to like it, but having a hard time with it. I am currently working on a 2008 rav 4 that is in poor shape. I ended up grabbing my rotary after 2 test spots with the flex, and started wondering why I bought the flex. Then I remembered............Mazda paint:laughing::laughing:

 

[Justin at Final Inspection]

It would be interesting to see how many highly skilled rotary (guys like Mike and Renny) users actually find a need for any other tools. I would say they can do anything they need to with a rotary...and just might keep a da around to ensure themselves to be 99.9% hologram free.

I have a rotary and a da, along with a dynabrade attachment (it's heavy but has lots of power) and for not more than I do they fit my needs. I would like a Flex 3401, but it's hard to justify that price when it won't be used that much. If I could get a used one at a good price that's been well cared for, then I might consider it, but 'till then I'm good.

I have a 3401 and a Makita rotary. I consider myself very skilled at using my rotary and feel that it is smoother and easier to control than my 3401. Also I have noticed that it breaks down the abrasives nicer and quicker resulting in easier product wipe off. I do use my 3401 quite a bit but may be grabbing a g21 soon. I have done a few full rotary corrections lately with great fast results. With the products and pads available nowadays you can easily achieve a swirl free finish compared to 15yrs ago.

 

[MIsnowman]

I have a 3401 and a Makita rotary. I consider myself very skilled at using my rotary and feel that it is smoother and easier to control than my 3401. Also I have noticed that it breaks down the abrasives nicer and quicker resulting in easier product wipe off. I do use my 3401 quite a bit but may be grabbing a g21 soon. I have done a few full rotary corrections lately with great fast results. With the products and pads available nowadays you can easily achieve a swirl free finish compared to 15yrs ago.

My experience is similar to yours except for the part about being very skilled with the rotary. :laughing: I had the rotary for buffing aluminum and figured I might as well have some pads for polishing paint too. I polished my (black) truck with the rotary and also used it on a large farm truck and they both turned out great. I agree about the great products available today. They make it easy to get great results, even for a newb.

 

[FinishingTouchA]

I have used my 3401 on 2 vehicles. I am really trying to like it, but having a hard time with it. I am currently working on a 2008 rav 4 that is in poor shape. I ended up grabbing my rotary after 2 test spots with the flex, and started wondering why I bought the flex. Then I remembered............Mazda paint:laughing::laughing:

After today I'm starting to like it a little bit more. I'm starting to get the idea that it was the pads and polishes I was using. I'm now using the Rupes pads and polishes with it and it's working a bit better than before. Can't wait until my huge order of LC pads and Menzerna polishes comes in. Funny thing though, my employee's Mazda 3 had some serious paint issues on the roof, what looks like overspray. Hit it with the Rupes and a heavy compound and got nothing. Decided to grab the rotary and a hybrid wool pad. Got the job done really quick and didn't run into any issues.
Biggest thing I'm starting to realize is yes, you can go with wholesale production chemicals (degreasers, APC, dressings) but you've got to spend good money on quality polishes etc to get the job done right.

 

[tenblade2001]

Pulled the trigger and got one last night before the sale ended. Hopefully, I will be in "love it" camp.

 

[DaveT435]

After today I'm starting to like it a little bit more. I'm starting to get the idea that it was the pads and polishes I was using. I'm now using the Rupes pads and polishes with it and it's working a bit better than before. Can't wait until my huge order of LC pads and Menzerna polishes comes in. Funny thing though, my employee's Mazda 3 had some serious paint issues on the roof, what looks like overspray. Hit it with the Rupes and a heavy compound and got nothing. Decided to grab the rotary and a hybrid wool pad. Got the job done really quick and didn't run into any issues.
Biggest thing I'm starting to realize is yes, you can go with wholesale production chemicals (degreasers, APC, dressings) but you've got to spend good money on quality polishes etc to get the job done right.

so it sounds like the quality of the finish you were getting can also be attributed to the pads and polish?

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

It would be interesting to see how many highly skilled rotary (guys like Mike and Renny) users actually find a need for any other tools. I would say they can do anything they need to with a rotary...and just might keep a da around to ensure themselves to be 99.9% hologram free.

There is a poll on the IDA Facebook Group asking,

What is your favorite method for correcting and finishing paint?

RUPES DA
Flex DA
Porter Cable
Rotary Polisher
Zentool DA


Great question and fun poll to take but here's my reply to the poll.

I use the right tool and the best tool for the job. I always hope it's the easiest tool for the job but when it comes to time and efficiency the right tool wins out.
​

RUPES
I think the RUPES BigFoot finishes out on basecoat/clearcoat paints extremely nice and also it's very consistent in the results it achieves.

I also find the RUPES BigFoot 21 to finish out extremely well on black gel-coat boats and if you can make black look good you can make every color look good.


Flex 3401
For anyone that has read my how-to book for the Flex 3401 you already know that I believe and recommend the Flex 3401 for doing production detailing and that is the LARGEST part of the detailing market.

I recommend products and procedures for how to use the Flex 3401 to make money as a detailer in the book and each year at Mobil Tech Expo I teach a class on how to turn the Flex 3401 into a money making machine.

If a person owns their own detailing business then I recommend having 2 Flex 3401 polishers. One set up for small pads and one set up for large pads.

There is no one single tool that is the best for all paint polishing procedures. The Flex comes close but there will always be times where a Porter Cable is best or a Rotary Buffer is best of the RUPES BigFoot 21 is best.


RUPES BigFoot 21

Here's an example where the RUPES was the best....

COPO Camaro - Flex vs Rupes - Carbon Fiber Hood Extreme Makeover

1978 Trans Am - Original Single Stage Lacquer Paint
This is the version that Burt Reynolds made famous in the movie Smokey and the Bandit. It was not in the movie but is the correct engine, transmission, T-tops, colors, wheels, etc that are the same as the car Burt drove in the movie.

Flex 3401
Here's an example where the Flex was the best..... both of the below cars were started and finished in 4 hours.



How to use a one-step cleaner/wax to maximize profits



Before
This car is in good condition but the paint was oxidized and thus dull and lifeless. It was rough to the feel with contamination as was the exterior glass. A greasy tire dressing was used and it smeared over the white letters staining them black and brown. The chrome was stained with some type of film causing them to look dull instead of bright and shiny.

High quality production detailing by Mike Phillips

The key with ANY tool starts with the abrasive technology. I hammer on this point on this forum all the time. When you read my posts, look to see how many times in a discussion on paint polishing where you'll see the words abrasive technology and most of the time they are bold and italicized for a reason.

Some guys say technique is #1 and I always politely disagree 100 percent.

It all starts with what's touching the paint.