Anyone on the fence? Go Griots

I know I'm pretty hardcore about this, but I'm not a fan of people making incorrect statements

On that note, lets keep in mind that there's a learning curve to every tool and sometimes statements made might only be incorrect because they haven't traveled as far up the road as others. One of the things this forum is famous for is helping others to get further up the road.

Sometimes their's an art to choosing the right words to convey your thoughts without having them taken the wrong way... I love a healthy discussion but I don't want to see any discussions spin out of control.

:)


Now get yourself a 4" backing plate and 5.5" Surbuf pads and find the worst car you can and go nuts! ;)

I agree the Griot's Garage ROP has a lot of power and with the Surbuf MicroFinger Buffing Pads with M105 you can get dang near rotary buffer results when it comes to correction power. (Note I said dang near, not the same).

I have not used 4" backing plates with the 5.5" Surbuf MicroFinger Buffing Pads because the 5" backing plates seem to be a better fit.

In fact, I created a thread on the dimensions with a lot of pictures because the topic of matching the right size backing plate to pad comes up often.

Here's the link,


Pictures: Surbuf MicroFinger Buffing Pads And Backing Plates Plus Dimensions


From left to right,
6" LC Backing Plate in front of 6.5" Surbuf Microfiber Buffing - 5" LC Backing Plate in front of 5.5" Surbuf Microfiber Buffing - 3.5" LC Backing Plate in front of 4" Surbuf Microfiber Buffing Pad.
GriotsBPSurbuf006.jpg





Below are the same backing plates attached to their corresponding Surbuf Microfiber Buffing pads as pictured above.

Note: The black marks are marks we placed on the backing plates so students in our class can easily see if the pads are rotating or not when learning to use a DA Polisher.

GriotsBPSurbuf007.jpg



A 4" backing plate would definitely provide more safety margin but the foam interface is pretty soft on the Surbuf pads.

I'll give it try tomorrow though to see how much flex if any there is on the edges.


:)
 
Adam, in a previous thread I thought you said it depends on the paint and that the Flex works better on some and the Griots on others. Have you changed your mind? No offense meant by my post. :) Just curious
It should be phrased "here we go again". Like stated before, "it's not the arrows, it's the indians". Depends on a lot of things, but mostly the person using it.
 
I think griots products they sell (not the polisher) are over priced and outperformed by most.
 
Here, I will end the debate, I will put my rotary up against your Griots.Im the MAN
 
I guess what I should of said is that in my opinion, I think the Griot's is a phenomenal machine and I am excited about the potential I now have in performing paint correction and in my opinion I would recommend the Griots. It was no the intent to start the flex vs. Griot war all over again. Listen to Mike Phillips " Find something you like and use it often" I like the griots.
 
I just feel i wasted money on my XP, should've gotten the GG. But the rotary (compounding) + XP (polishing) = Efficient & Effective! GG i assume is more well-rounded than the XP since it's more powerful. Only the XP is bullet-proof as most people say here.

To the OP, congrats on a very good decision for a DA.
 
I just feel i wasted money on my XP, should've gotten the GG. But the rotary (compounding) + XP (polishing) = Efficient & Effective! GG i assume is more well-rounded than the XP since it's more powerful. Only the XP is bullet-proof as most people say here.

To the OP, congrats on a very good decision for a DA.
The XP is plenty sufficient for polishing.
 
I just feel i wasted money on my XP, should've gotten the GG. But the rotary (compounding) + XP (polishing) = Efficient & Effective! GG i assume is more well-rounded than the XP since it's more powerful. Only the XP is bullet-proof as most people say here.

To the OP, congrats on a very good decision for a DA.

You are perfectly fine with the XP.
 
I am so tired of hearing what machine blah, blah, blah. It's not nearly as much about the machine as it is about a persons technique, and ability to use the tool correctly. I think that all of the time wasted arguing about what machine is best would be better spent reinforcing correct methods of using the machines. Even the best, most powerful polisher in the world cannot correct or polish paint worth a darn if the person running the tool has poor technique. I would bet I can use my PCxp to correct and finish as well or better than most can with their Flex or GG.


I just feel i wasted money on my XP, should've gotten the GG. But the rotary (compounding) + XP (polishing) = Efficient & Effective! GG i assume is more well-rounded than the XP since it's more powerful. Only the XP is bullet-proof as most people say here.

To the OP, congrats on a very good decision for a DA.

Don't feel like you wasted money on your XP. The PCxp is a great tool and when used properly (like with any other tool) will do an excellent job of compounding. In some cases (using proper technique and skills) even better. (Sound familiar Dana? It should you preached it to me.)I could afford to buy all three (Flex, GG, and PCxp) if I wanted to, but have not seen a reason to change what I'm doing with the PCxp. (Granted I've never used a Flex or GG) but like I stated above I would be willing to bet I can correct and finish as well or better than most with their Flex or GG.
Here is a couple of links to the last couple of details I posted (used the PCxp for both)...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24212-f-150-complete-turn-around.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24502-1982-datsun-turn-around.html
 
I am so tired of hearing what machine blah, blah, blah. It's not nearly as much about the machine as it is about a persons technique, and ability to use the tool correctly. I think that all of the time wasted arguing about what machine is best would be better spent reinforcing correct methods of using the machines. Even the best, most powerful polisher in the world cannot correct or polish paint worth a darn if the person running the tool has poor technique. I would bet I can use my PCxp to correct and finish as well or better than most can with their Flex or GG.




Don't feel like you wasted money on your XP. The PCxp is a great tool and when used properly (like with any other tool) will do an excellent job of compounding. In some cases (using proper technique and skills) even better. I could afford to buy all three (Flex, GG, and PCxp) if I wanted to, but have not seen a reason to change what I'm doing with the PCxp. (Granted I've never used a Flex or GG) but like I stated above I would be willing to bet I can correct and finish as well or better than most with their Flex or GG.
Here is a couple of links to the last couple of details I posted (used the PCxp for both)...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24212-f-150-complete-turn-around.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24502-1982-datsun-turn-around.html
Tad is a perfect example of nearing paint polishing perfection with the PCXP. He proves that you can get EXCELLENT results with the "small dog" PCXP. :props:
 
I am so tired of hearing what machine blah, blah, blah. It's not nearly as much about the machine as it is about a persons technique, and ability to use the tool correctly. I think that all of the time wasted arguing about what machine is best would be better spent reinforcing correct methods of using the machines. Even the best, most powerful polisher in the world cannot correct or polish paint worth a darn if the person running the tool has poor technique. I would bet I can use my PCxp to correct and finish as well or better than most can with their Flex or GG.

Don't feel like you wasted money on your XP. The PCxp is a great tool and when used properly (like with any other tool) will do an excellent job of compounding. In some cases (using proper technique and skills) even better. (Sound familiar Dana? It should you preached it to me.)I could afford to buy all three (Flex, GG, and PCxp) if I wanted to, but have not seen a reason to change what I'm doing with the PCxp. (Granted I've never used a Flex or GG) but like I stated above I would be willing to bet I can correct and finish as well or better than most with their Flex or GG.
Here is a couple of links to the last couple of details I posted (used the PCxp for both)...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24212-f-150-complete-turn-around.html
[URL="http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24502-1982-datsun-turn-around.html"]http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24502-1982-datsun-turn-around.html[/URL]

Hear Hear Tad! You make some great points... and I love your work! It speaks for itself no question.
 
I understand your opinions. It is a decent machine, i admit that. It works absolutely fine with oem and certain paint brands. But it didn't even scratch my paint i tell you. m105 on yellow flat 5.5 speed 6 - i tried heavy,moderate, and no pressure, on extremely slow movement, on stationary for 10seconds (or so),on primed pad,on new just dotted pad - well it did work but it took about 12-16 SECTION PASSES! Like i said, it works on most of the cars i've worked on, but it doesn't work well on hard repainted clears. I just bought the surbuf pads, and will try if this can make a difference.

But already got a Makita to play with too! hehehe! thanks for the comments guys..appreciate it!
 
Let us know what you think about the surbuf pads!

I understand your opinions. It is a decent machine, i admit that. It works absolutely fine with oem and certain paint brands. But it didn't even scratch my paint i tell you. m105 on yellow flat 5.5 speed 6 - i tried heavy,moderate, and no pressure, on extremely slow movement, on stationary for 10seconds (or so),on primed pad,on new just dotted pad - well it did work but it took about 12-16 SECTION PASSES! Like i said, it works on most of the cars i've worked on, but it doesn't work well on hard repainted clears. I just bought the surbuf pads, and will try if this can make a difference.

But already got a Makita to play with too! hehehe! thanks for the comments guys..appreciate it!
 
Adam, in a previous thread I thought you said it depends on the paint and that the Flex works better on some and the Griots on others. Have you changed your mind? No offense meant by my post. :) Just curious

You're right, I have said that in the past and it does still apply, on soft clear-coats. On hard clears, my Griot's performs much better. ;) An absolutely no offense taken Cee. :D

Here, I will end the debate, I will put my rotary up against your Griots.Im the MAN

lol I'm starting to wonder if the Griot's actually CAN get the same correction level as a rotary with the Surbuf pads. I'm not a fan of the KB method with the Surbuf pads because the misted water just seems to get splattered everywhere, but using less than half of the product I normally use and getting twice the correction is awesome!

I had to buy another 5" backing plate for my Griot's. I also went ahead and ordered six 5.5" surbuf pads. :buffing:

WOOT!! Remember, just clean them with a rag if they get saturated with wet product only. Brush the micro-fingers after EVERY section. Seems like it would add time to the polish, but it actually reduces the time it takes to buff with them, at least IME.

I just feel i wasted money on my XP, should've gotten the GG. But the rotary (compounding) + XP (polishing) = Efficient & Effective! GG i assume is more well-rounded than the XP since it's more powerful. Only the XP is bullet-proof as most people say here.

To the OP, congrats on a very good decision for a DA.

You didn't waste your money with the PCXP, it's just very limited in how quickly it can correct, and that won't change no matter how good your technique is. Power is most definitely NOT the ultimate contributing factor in how well a detail comes out, it's technique, but power supplements technique by providing an extra shot of speed as well, making you more efficient. The PCXP is a great "starter" tool, and even great for some folks who do amazing work with them, I.E. Dark Horse, but there are exceptions to every rule.

I am so tired of hearing what machine blah, blah, blah. It's not nearly as much about the machine as it is about a persons technique, and ability to use the tool correctly. I think that all of the time wasted arguing about what machine is best would be better spent reinforcing correct methods of using the machines. Even the best, most powerful polisher in the world cannot correct or polish paint worth a darn if the person running the tool has poor technique. I would bet I can use my PCxp to correct and finish as well or better than most can with their Flex or GG.




Don't feel like you wasted money on your XP. The PCxp is a great tool and when used properly (like with any other tool) will do an excellent job of compounding. In some cases (using proper technique and skills) even better. (Sound familiar Dana? It should you preached it to me.)I could afford to buy all three (Flex, GG, and PCxp) if I wanted to, but have not seen a reason to change what I'm doing with the PCxp. (Granted I've never used a Flex or GG) but like I stated above I would be willing to bet I can correct and finish as well or better than most with their Flex or GG.
Here is a couple of links to the last couple of details I posted (used the PCxp for both)...

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24212-f-150-complete-turn-around.html
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24502-1982-datsun-turn-around.html

You do great work mang. We all know that, but if you tried a Griot's, you'd probably think of your PCXP as a toy in comparison. I mean the difference in abilities is mind-blowing, just ask Jonathan. His PCXP on 6 is like my Griot's on 3-4. No joke. Anyway, I don't mind friendly competition between the two machines, I just don't like to read statements claiming the Flex is the best thing since sliced bread and no other DA can compete when I know that's not the truth. I'd absolutely LOVE to work with someone who does miracle turn-arounds with a Flex and who can do it in less time than I do with my Griot's. I'm all about learning.

OH, and Mike is right, I'm using a 5" backing plate, not a 4", sorry for the miscommunication. ;) Anyway, I made a video that I'm uploading soon to show what my Griot's can do in real time. It's a 10-minute video and I hope someone with a Flex can do the same thing on a car that's as bad as the one in my video. :dblthumb2:
 
I understand your opinions. It is a decent machine, i admit that. It works absolutely fine with oem and certain paint brands. But it didn't even scratch my paint i tell you. m105 on yellow flat 5.5 speed 6 - i tried heavy,moderate, and no pressure, on extremely slow movement, on stationary for 10seconds (or so),on primed pad,on new just dotted pad - well it did work but it took about 12-16 SECTION PASSES! Like i said, it works on most of the cars i've worked on, but it doesn't work well on hard repainted clears. I just bought the surbuf pads, and will try if this can make a difference.

But already got a Makita to play with too! hehehe! thanks for the comments guys..appreciate it!

If your not getting correction with a PCxp and 105, (not meaning to offend you), but you may want to evaluate your technique, or swicth to a rotorary, because the correction is beyond the ability of a DA. My 2009 Mustang GT has extremely hard clear and I can correct it very quickly with 105 and no more than a orange CCS or cyan hydrotech. What kind of paint are you working on, and in what shape. If you are using a yellow pad and 105, and descent technique you are removing swirls and scratches, but installing new ones from such an aggressive combo. (You will need to step down to a finer polish/pad combo after compounding). I would stay away from using yellow pads (IHMO it's like polishing with a brick).
 
Back
Top