Anyone still use LC yellow pads?

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WRAPT C5Z06

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They don't finish great, so I've heard, but if I'm not mistaken, they have more cut than the HT Cyan. I've never used an LC yellow pad, so I'm wondering if anyone else does?
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
They don't finish great, so I've heard, but if I'm not mistaken, they have more cut than the HT Cyan. I've never used an LC yellow pad, so I'm wondering if anyone else does?
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I do actually. I use the yellow LC 5.5" CCS pad. You're right, it doesn't finish well. But, I only use it for tough clear. Or, I may use it sparingly for some tough imperfections.

Most the time, I go straight to the CCS orange. I've used the yellow on a neglected vette, and a full size van that was completely BEAT. Both clear coats were tough as nails. Although, on the vette...I did use orange quite a bit as well.

I did notice that going from yellow to white, doesn't work so well. At least not with 105, and 205. If I use the yellow, I usually like to follow with orange, and a more mild compound. Then white with 205, or any other polish.

Yellow is aggressive, but useful to have on hand. :dblthumb2:
 
They don't finish well because they are for heavy cutting for compounds. They also increase the cut on a polish. You would probably would use polish afterwards with less cutting pad. And maybe a finishing pad with a finish polish.
 
Kristopher1129 said:
I do actually. I use the yellow LC 5.5" CCS pad. You're right, it doesn't finish well. But, I only use it for tough clear. Or, I may use it sparingly for some tough imperfections.

Most the time, I go straight to the CCS orange. I've used the yellow on a neglected vette, and a full size van that was completely BEAT. Both clear coats were tough as nails. Although, on the vette...I did use orange quite a bit as well.

I did notice that going from yellow to white, doesn't work so well. At least not with 105, and 205. If I use the yellow, I usually like to follow with orange, and a more mild compound. Then white with 205, or any other polish.

Yellow is aggressive, but useful to have on hand. :dblthumb2:
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Kris, IIRC, you do most of your compounding with a rotary?
 
I do not. If I need an agressive cut, I go to wool with a rotary. But I can see them being useful in some situations if you do only have a DA.

I do recall using 105 and a yellow on a DA and it had to be followed up with SIP then a finishing polish. They do not finish too well but can remove some deeper defects than an orange can on a DA.

If you are looking to try some Mark I may have 1 or 2 5.5's that I can send you. I have to check for sure tho if u are interested.
 
Dr Oldz said:
I do not. If I need an agressive cut, I go to wool with a rotary. But I can see them being useful in some situations if you do only have a DA.

I do recall using 105 and a yellow on a DA and it had to be followed up with SIP then a finishing polish. They do not finish too well but can remove some deeper defects than an orange can on a DA.

If you are looking to try some Mark I may have 1 or 2 5.5's that I can send you. I have to check for sure tho if u are interested.
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I'm more of a DA guy. On hard clears, I do not find the orange pad(even with M105) really capable of removing bad swirls. So, I thought yellow might be an option, considering I want to use the Flex 3401 more these days, rather than a PC.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Kris, IIRC, you do most of your compounding with a rotary?
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Not ALL my compounding. It depends what I'm doing. I use both pretty consistently. If I'm following wet sanding...I never use a DA.

If I'm doing a 3 step...I like the DA cause it's easier to follow up with polish, and I feel it's quicker, and more clean. I can compound a whole vehicle with the DA, and not have to rewash. The rotary I typically rewash cause of the shedding from wool, and compound sling if any. If I've got some really abused, oxidized clear...then yes, I'll pick up the rotary and power through it.

I pick up the DA as often as the rotary...I may as well hang both of them from my hip, ha.
 
I use yellow pads on a DA fairly often, almost exclusively paired with M105, and the combo works great. I've never had one problem going from that to a white pad and M205 and achieving excellent results. I detail for money maybe a half dozen times a year and the cars I see are always fairly neglected. Yellow pads always work great for those situations.
 
I use the yellow pads in the same situations as Kris.

I initially bought them when I only had my PC for heavy cutting and working on hard clear. I don't use them that often now but when I come across something that is extremely hard to correct I'll go to them before picking up the wool pad.

I've used them both on my DA and my rotary and I prefer them on my DA. Usually with the rotary I can get out whatever scratches I'm working on with an orange LC pad. But occasionally I'll use the yellow.

Definitely have to follow up with another polish/pad combo cause it doesn't finish out as well as an orange pad can.

Just as a warning I've had issues with the 4" yellow LC pads. The backing comes off easily with some heat build up. I actually purchased the cyclo yellow pads. The backing on those pads is great and haven't had any issues.
 
Ive used the yellow pads twice. One of the times was after wet sanding some areas on a bumper. I used SIP and the yellow pad on my PC. If the pad had been a 5.5" it would have worked better for what I was doing. It did a fine job but I had to follow up with SIP on an orange pad and then I used a finish polish. It turned out fine, not great but much better than it looked before I started
 
I was having problems getting enough cut to take out wet sanding marks on a previously repaired, single stage painted hood. I started with my PC and a LC CCS 5.5" pad and XMT heavy cut - no love. Didn't touch most of the sanding marks.

Had to use 3M heavy cut (also does not finish well) with LC flat yellow 5.5" pads. Sonus Defect remover with an orange pad polished it out nicely.

I find the yellow pads and the compounds appropriate for them to be a welcome step between products. You can definitely use the pads to enhance the cut. From my experience, they are as useful as any other pad as long as you have a need for that tool.
 
I got one of those a few years ago and used it once...and hated it. Generated too much heat, didn't correct nearly as well as wool and didn't finish down as well as I can with wool either. I might have thrown it in the garbage, I don't remember.
 
I use the 5.5 LC CCS Yellow pads. But very rarely. Orange + M105 can tackle 95% of everything I've encountered.

Sent from my DROID Pro using Tapatalk
 
richy said:
I got one of those a few years ago and used it once...and hated it. Generated too much heat, didn't correct nearly as well as wool and didn't finish down as well as I can with wool either. I might have thrown it in the garbage, I don't remember.
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LOL!! :laughing: I love how your straight forward, just like me!
 
Rsurfer said:
I thought you junked your 3401. Im the MAN
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Wellllll, Ron! I'm honestly sick and tired of the pad rotation stopping on a random orbital on every single damn non flat surface! Even though the Flex tries to steer me at times, I cannot deny the forced rotation!!! :buffing:
 
Mark, I just finished a boat with my new Meguiar's unit and had no trouble at all with pad rotation. Just kept it perpendicular to the surfaces. I was using 6.5" W7006 softbuff cutting pad with M105.

I have to say that between you and Shiny Lil' Detlr's recommendations, I couldn't be more happy.

Oh sure, I could stop it if I wasn't paying attention to my technique. However, pushing straight on with some force I was quite impressed with it's power. Keep in mind I've only used it once, and it's the only tool I've used. So take that for what it's worth...which probably isn't much to some. That's okay.
 
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