Anything better than IPA for wipedowns?

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05RLS2

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Sometimes I find myself having to do IPA wipedowns (91% IPA mixed with distilled water) 4 or 5 times depending on polishes to get rid of all of all the oils to show the true finish. Sometimes I just resort to using straig 91 IPA, and I still find myself having to do it a few times. Since all polishes are going to have some oils to an extent, this is pretty much a necessary step. Is there anything out there that you all have found that is safe, works better, and much is quicker to remove all of the surface oils from polishing to reveal the true finish than IPA?
 
:iagree:

i just ordered some and cant wait to try it.
 
05RLS2 said:
Sometimes I just resort to using straig 91 IPA, and I still find myself having to do it a few times.
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I've used Menzerna Top Inspection and thought it was okay, but I really like the Griot's Pre-Wax cleaner much, much better. According to this thread started by Mike Phillips, using IPA undiluted is probably not the best thing for your paint.

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results


:)
 
Well just keep in mind that griots pre-wax is made just specifically for paint. Last time i checked, IPA was not made for paint. Meaning, i would feel more comfortable using a product made for that purpose.
 
05RLS2 said:
I may have to give it a try.

Does it truly work better and quicker than IPA? Or is it just an easier solution than mixing IPA in a bottle? I'd hate to buy it only to find out that it's a $9 product that is just as effective as a less than $1 bottle of IPA
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I feel it works better than IPA! Not grabby like IPA. I don't and will not use IPA on any paint. This is a reasonably priced product that works great for it's intended purpose.
 
After polishing I've been using a generic mineral spirits; just spray it on and wipe it off. It does a nice job of cleaning everything up and since it's not in the same family as automotive finishes it's been harmless to them.

Just my thoughts is all...
 
I have used mineral spirits as well. I also use prep sol and it is cheap to use.
 
Dr Oldz said:
This is what I use!

Griot's Garage Pre-Wax Cleaner, prewax paint cleaner, paint prep cleaner
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Ive been using that as well, but not for wipedowns after polishing.

Ive been using it per their instructions following a wash when Im going to apply a new product. I apply it to a wet car, rub it in with their sponges and then rinse off.

But I noticed in their literature than you can also just wipe it off with a microfiber. I will try that next time I polish as well since IPA seems to cloud the paint for some reason, maybe its smearing stuff around I dunno.
 
mcpp66 said:
According to this thread started by Mike Phillips, using IPA undiluted is probably not the best thing for your paint.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html
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The history behind the above article is that on all the detailing discussion forums I read there's always someone recommending to use IPA to chemically strip the paint for a number of different reasons but there wasn't any further information ever included, just...

Use IPA to to wipe the paint down...


So to help people make an informed decision as to whether or not to chemically strip their paint and if they decide to to give them some guidelines, I did some research and then did my best to put together an article on the topic.

In that article there's a couple of warnings about the chemical stripping process and here's one of them...


Most recommendations I’ve read are:

Dilute IPA by 50% with water or 1:1
  • Diluting 91% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 45% dilution of IPA to water solution.
  • Diluting 70% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 35% dilution of IPA to water solution.
  • Diluting 50% IPA 1:1 or by 50% with water would give you approximately a 25% dilution of IPA to water solution.
After talking to my chemist friends, they all felt that these dilution levels were overkill and too strong for removing residues after compounding and/or polishing paint. Most quality name brand compounds and polishes are water soluble and don't need a strong solution of Isopropyl Alcohol to dissolve, emulsify and loosen any leftover residues on the surface.

Their recommendation was for approximately a 10% dilution of IPA to water solution. The reason for this recommendation besides their chemistry background, is that a strong solution of IPA can stain and even soften some clear coat paints.

High Solids Clear Coats paints are "Alcohol Friendly", meaning products like Isopropyl Alcohol, can and will penetrated into, soften, wrinkle and/or stain the paint. To avoid any of these problems, a 10% dilution of IPA to water solution is recommended and adequate to remove any compounding and polishing residues without risking any danger to your car's paint or your customer's car's paint.


Another colleague in the industry coined the term Hot to describe strong solutions of Isopropyl Alcohol used to chemically strip paint.

Hot = How fast a liquid will bite into the paint, the strength of the dilution and the flash time for the liquid to evaporate off the finish.
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Full strength IPA is a HOT chemical stripper, the stronger the ratio, the hotter it is.


My colleague agrees with my chemist friends that 50%, 70% and 91% dilution levels are all too strong to safely use to chemically strip paint. This person's recommendation was to stay at or below 25% dilution of IPA to water solution.
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You can use IPA however you like but maybe take a moment to read through the article an see what your other options are as it relates to dilution levels and other products.


How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results



:)
 
I use Megs Glass Cleaner Concentrate. I have found it cleans the paint well, isnt grabby, and is very easy to use. Plus its cheap!
 
How about Menzerna Top Inspection? Wait, it's 4x the price of the Griots. (16oz vs 35oz, and the price per bottle is more for Menzerna too)

Menzerna Top Inspection, detail spray

Edit: sorry, I just realized post #4 of this thread already mentioned Top Inspection.
 
I'm a fan of using ethanol as I have it readily available. It has a lower boiling point than isopropyl so it evaporates even faster. Cleans identically and is about half as toxic too. I mix distilled water with 200 proof (non denatured) ethyl alcohol to make a 15% solution. It rarely takes more than one wipe to clear away Megs compounds & polishes to bare paint.

I prefer the smell as well; never cared for isopropyl, ethyl conjures good memories.

Depending on what is added to denatured ethanol, it would work fine too. I have read that sometimes toluene is added, which would not be particularly good for the user or paint.
 
jbgrant said:
I'm a fan of using ethanol as I have it readily available. It has a lower boiling point than isopropyl so it evaporates even faster. Cleans identically and is about half as toxic too. I mix distilled water with 200 proof (non denatured) ethyl alcohol to make a 15% solution. It rarely takes more than one wipe to clear away Megs compounds & polishes to bare paint.

I prefer the smell as well; never cared for isopropyl, ethyl conjures good memories.

Depending on what is added to denatured ethanol, it would work fine too. I have read that sometimes toluene is added, which would not be particularly good for the user or paint.
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You either work in a lab, or have access to one, to have 200 proof ethanol (laboratory grade) readily available to you. If not, and you obtain it elsewhere, then the taxes levied upon ethanol (ethyl alcohol, grain alcohol, spirits) must not be applicable where you live. Lab quality ethanol...That's expensive stuff!!! As far as I know, only denatured ethanol (that is...it's intentionally made to be unfit for consumption), isn't levied this A.T.F.'s Revenuers' Tax. :D

I'm glad your usage of ethanol conjures up good memories for you. I have little recollection of all my doings during my ethanol imbibing era.:)

Bob
 
Porsche Pilot said:
I have used mineral spirits as well. I also use prep sol and it is cheap to use.
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I have some prep sol and consideridered it for a few seconds once, but felt kind of leary about using it and passed on it.

I may just give the Griots a try just for the fact that it should be safer. If it doesn;t work, abck to IPA I guess. It's not like it'd be the first product I tried and didn't find it worked as advertised
 
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