apply sealant with PC doesn't feel right?

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wn1998

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I have been reading that many of you apply sealants/waxes via pc but everytime I have tried, It feels so thin and I'm not sure I covered the entire area. I have been sweating my butt off doing it by hand. When done by hand, I feel where the wax is and am much more confident with one coat.

I also feel that I use too much when using the pc. (Red Pad). What am I doing wrong? I am only a weekend detailer and only do my two cars 2-3 times a year so really no biggie but I feel like I could apply wax in half the time if I could do it with a PC.
 
Getting the application thin is the main advantage IMO to using the PC. I use the red pad and put just a bit on the pad, then spread it out with my fingers before applying to a section. I re-apply when it starts to not cover areas, and if you want to make sure you get everything, do it twice. Going over everything twice with the PC beats doing it by hand.
 
Applying wax by machine is the best way to apply a wax or paint sealant in my opinion...

  • Equal pressure over the entire face of the buffing pad = no pressure points
  • Machines offer a consistent, massaging action that cannot be duplicated by hand
  • Machines lay down a uniform layer of product
  • Uniform application leads to better appearance results, consistent drying time and easy wipe-off


I think I show machine application of wax in the last part of these videos...

How To Remove Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots using a PC 7424XP, Meguiar's G110v2 or Griot's Garage 6" Random Orbital Polisher

Using a DA Polisher - Part 1​
[video=youtube_share;zUHRnHsSXZU]- How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable DA Polisher[/video]

Using a DA Polisher - Part 2​
[video=youtube_share;fxwlWijdIxM]- How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable DA Polisher[/video]

Using a DA Polisher - Part 3​
[video=youtube_share;9objUFdpsG4]- How to remove swirls, scratches and water spots using a Porter Cable DA Polisher[/video]



Make sure you're on the 3.0 to 4.0 speed setting and this should be a fairly fast operation as you're not trying to remove defects, merely spread out and work in a coating of wax or paint sealant. Make 2-3 passes over each square inch of one section and then move on to new territory...



:)
 
I use a Genuine Cyclo white finishing pad to apply waxes and or sealants with my G110V2. The white Cyclo pads are made of a denser but very soft foam than any of my other pads.

I find that if I can see a trail of wet product (sealant) that dries even 4 inches behind my pad as I move the polisher along, there is enough product being applied.

I have to stay focused on each panel as to where I apply it as it is hard to see what area has been covered and what has not been covered.

As an example, I will apply a nickle sized spot of sealant onto my pad and start in the drivers side center of my hood and work in a straight line toward the windshield. When I reach the windshield edge of the hood, I then go back in the direction I came from and go all the way to the grill. Then I overlap 50% and work toward the fender and then work in overlapping passes from the fender back to the center of the hood.

That nickel size dot of sealant is enough to do that half of the hood. Next I move to the other side of the car and repeat that same process. After the hood is finished I move on to each front fender and repeat the process being sure to cover the entire fender twice.

By the time I am ready to move on to the roof of the car, my pad generally has enough sealant saturated into it that I can effectively cover the entire roof before adding more sealant to move on to the trunk lid etc. etc.

I do it this way because for 1 I ensure complete coverage and for 2 I work back over my starting point on each panel ensuring that I thin out the heavier coverage where I started, making removal much easier.

I would personally rather use a little more product applying by machine than to go through more physical labor by applying by hand.

By the time I reach the sealing point I have usually just spent 7 to 10 hours already laboring over the car with the preceding correction steps and we're only talking about at tops 50 cents more product.
 
I ONLY use my Flex 3401 to apply LSP's. So much easier than by hand, IMO. I don't even use paste waxes anymore, although you can apply those by DA, too.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
I ONLY use my Flex 3401 to apply LSP's. So much easier than by hand, IMO. I don't even use paste waxes anymore, although you can apply those by DA, too.
Click to expand...

You really should try some correction work with it as well Mark, I here it does almost as good a job as my pc...:D
 
Quick question, when I do apply sealer with my PCXP normally I go on 4 1/2 or 5 while using a 6.5" pad, any lower than that and the pad barely spins.

Is this because of the size of the pad I have been using? Or am I putting too much pressure on?
 
wn1998 said:
I have been reading that many of you apply sealants/waxes via pc but everytime I have tried, It feels so thin and I'm not sure I covered the entire area. I have been sweating my butt off doing it by hand. When done by hand, I feel where the wax is and am much more confident with one coat.

I also feel that I use too much when using the pc. (Red Pad). What am I doing wrong? I am only a weekend detailer and only do my two cars 2-3 times a year so really no biggie but I feel like I could apply wax in half the time if I could do it with a PC.
Click to expand...

I use the PC to apply DGPS to the paint with a red pad. I go over each section twice to ensure coverage. I was using a 6.5" pad which I feel is too big and wasted product. I also have both 4" and 5.5" pads and often just use the 4" pad as the smaller pad fits in more places and I can use it manually to hit the areas where the DA can't fit (around the side mirrors, under racks and spoilers, thin areas along the windows). I use about the same nickel size amount as TD and spread it out with my fingers to better prime the pad, and apply small amounts as needed. A little seems to go a long way.

I have not yet graduated to applying paste waxes with the PC but in my defense, I have been using Fuzion recently which is a WOWO.
 
ROMEO said:
Quick question, when I do apply sealer with my PCXP normally I go on 4 1/2 or 5 while using a 6.5" pad, any lower than that and the pad barely spins.

Is this because of the size of the pad I have been using? Or am I putting too much pressure on?
Click to expand...



You don't need the pad to spin unless you're doing correction work.

I think I state this in this article...

The Definitive How-To Article for Removing Swirls, Scratches and Water Spots Using a Porter Cable 7424XP, G110v2 or Griot's Garage Polisher - Includes Videos



Vibrating, oscillating, spinning once in a while is fine when applying a finishing wax or paint sealant.


If you're applying a cleaner/wax and trying to do restoration work then "yes" you would want the pad rotating.

To see how well the PC works a wax or paint sealant onto the paint, take and place your hand against a fender or the hood and then place a clean, dry pad, on your PC and then place against your hand and turn it on at the 3.0 or 4.0 speed setting and it will feel like a hand massage.

It does a great job of massaging the wax or paint sealant over the paint...


:)
 
DARK HORSE said:
You really should try some correction work with it as well Mark, I here it does almost as good a job as my pc...:D
Click to expand...

:laughing: Classic!


I'm old school I guess, as I still prefer to apply wax and sealants by hand.
 
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