Are Nissan paints better?

Microswirls or rather scratches caused by m205.

The paint is so soft that even m205 on a white pad leaves it's own marks.

My process was M205 on orange followed by m205 on red. That led to really good results.

Thanks for the info.

I think that this might be the first I've read about using the same polish on two different pads; one to remove the defects and the other to finish the job. Apparently there are many different methods that can produce a good result, if you have the tools to try them.

When I bought my DA I ordered some of the orange and white LC flat pads, and then at the last minute decided to order one of each color of the LC Hydro-Tech pads, which included a red one. Is that the type of red pad you used?
 
Thanks for the info.

I think that this might be the first I've read about using the same polish on two different pads; one to remove the defects and the other to finish the job. Apparently there are many different methods that can produce a good result, if you have the tools to try them.

When I bought my DA I ordered some of the orange and white LC flat pads, and then at the last minute decided to order one of each color of the LC Hydro-Tech pads, which included a red one. Is that the type of red pad you used?

It's not the exact same, but will produce pretty much the exact same results.

That's a crimson LC pad, whereas mine was a red LC pad. I don't know if they are actually different, but "technically" they are different. However both have no cut and are used for waxing, so should have the same result in the end.

The reason I could use M205 on a cutting pad and a waxing pad is because the paint was so soft that all it needed was a finishing polish on a cutting pad to cut through the defects and a finishing pad on a waxing pad to get the perfect finish with no microswirls.
 
It's not the exact same, but will produce pretty much the exact same results.

That's a crimson LC pad, whereas mine was a red LC pad. I don't know if they are actually different, but "technically" they are different. However both have no cut and are used for waxing, so should have the same result in the end.

The reason I could use M205 on a cutting pad and a waxing pad is because the paint was so soft that all it needed was a finishing polish on a cutting pad to cut through the defects and a finishing pad on a waxing pad to get the perfect finish with no microswirls.

In another thread that I started a few weeks ago asking about how aggressive to be when doing a test spot, I was advised to try the M205 on a white pad first, and if after 2 section passes I didn't see the results I needed, move to M105 on an orange pad. Another recommendation was to try M205 on an orange pad after the white pad, before using any M105, which would be just slightly more aggressive. That seems to be the combination that gave you good results, assuming that the paint on my Murano is similar to the paint you worked on.

Too bad I can't email my car to you. :)
 
In another thread that I started a few weeks ago asking about how aggressive to be when doing a test spot, I was advised to try the M205 on a white pad first, and if after 2 section passes I didn't see the results I needed, move to M105 on an orange pad. Another recommendation was to try M205 on an orange pad after the white pad, before using any M105, which would be just slightly more aggressive. That seems to be the combination that gave you good results, assuming that the paint on my Murano is similar to the paint you worked on.

Too bad I can't email my car to you. :)

One thing I've learned is to never assume that the paint reacts the same way, even if it is the same exact paint on the same exact car by the same exact manufacturer.

It may behave similarly but it's never the same.

Maybe you have a little harder paint than mine. If so, m105 followed by m205 might work nicely.

Or maybe it's really similar and m205 on orange followed by red will be exactly what you need.

You never know until you test it out ;)

Keep me updated!
 
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