Are these the signs a of proper coating?

dcoy

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A few weeks ago I got a coating applied to my brand new M3. I don't know the temperature it was applied in but it was put in a 30-40 degree dry garage for 15 hours after.

I have taken the car on a few ski trips and driven through wet and dirty roads. The car seems to be a magnet for dirt. It looks like the dirtiest car on the road in the area.

It does not seems to bead at all. I attached pictures of its dirtiest point on the trip and a few after I just washed the car.

I want to apply the pinnacle black label coating. Would it be ok to apply the surface prep coating and then the glass coating? Also, if the coating is applied in 60 degree garage, can it enter a colder garage to set? Any tips are appreciated.

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:D
 
What coating did you apply. What was your process?
I took it to a detail shop for the coating and don't know the exact brand. I was sort wondering if this is what a proper coating should look like when clean and when dirty. I thought it was supposed to bead a bit more and the dirt and grime would not stick as much to the surface.
 
How are you washing the car? What was the behavior like shortly after the coating was applied? Was it coated in at least 68 degree ambient temperature?
What coating did you have applied?
 
I washed the car using proper methods and with chemical guys body wash shampoo. The coat acted the same way a few days after the coating was applied.
I don't know the temperature the coating was applied but I'm quite positive it was not 68 degrees(it was just above freezing outside). I believe this was the main problem. I don't know the exact coating that was applied but will find out.
 
Not all coatings bead. That is why I asked what the coating was. Can you inquire with the shop that did the work. They may have used an LSP rather than a coating.
 
I will inquire about the kind that was used. What is an LSP?
 
A few weeks ago I got a coating applied to my brand new M3. I don't know the temperature it was applied in but it was put in a 30-40 degree dry garage for 15 hours after.

I have taken the car on a few ski trips and driven through wet and dirty roads. The car seems to be a magnet for dirt. It looks like the dirtiest car on the road in the area.

It does not seems to bead at all. I attached pictures of its dirtiest point on the trip and a few after I just washed the car.

I want to apply the pinnacle black label coating. Would it be ok to apply the surface prep coating and then the glass coating? Also, if the coating is applied in 60 degree garage, can it enter a colder garage to set? Any tips are appreciated. View attachment 32667View attachment 32668View attachment 32669View attachment 32670View attachment 32671View attachment 32672View attachment 32673View attachment 32674

I would ask the detailer what type of coating they applied.

My personal car is coated with CQuartz and:

1) I've found it does accumulate salt but at a slower rate

2) Just a normal two bucket wash is all it takes to restore it to the same look the day I applied it (it has been a little over 2 months) - as well as the same beading properties.

From your pictures it looks like a few things could have happened, in my opinion:

1) A true coating wasn't applied.

2) A coating was applied and when you're washing it you're not removing the 'road film' on the car - which would cause sub par beading.

3) The cure time for the coating might not have been met. However - IF the coating did require a certain amount of time at a certain temperature it was the detailer's responsibility to either keep it for that amount of time at that temperature or clearly communicate that need to you.

However, at the end of the day, I'd call the detailer. They should easily be able to explain to you what's happening and suggest the proper way to wash the coating - after all, they installed it. :props:

EDIT: Just saw your reply. LSP is a last step product, such as a wax or sealant, it's just the last step taken on the exterior during a detail.
 
As far as the dirt goes, I would say that looks pretty typical for a car in the winter. Mine looks exactly like that, and I have it coated with 22PLE.



The benefit of the coating is that all this dirt and grime should wash off fairly easily.

As far as the appearance of the coating goes, I have to say that the beading on your car isn't very impressive. However, beading is just a proxy for protection. The ultimate purpose of a coating is to protect the clear coat and base coat. The purpose of a coating is not to bead, although most coatings are hydrophobic and, therefore, bead very well. As I said, the purpose of a coating is to protect. So, beading may not be a strong property of the coating; that doesn't mean it isn't working.

Having said that, your detailer probably used one of the more commonly known coatings (Gtechniq, 22PLE, Opticoat, C.Quartz, Chemical Guys Second skin), and these all bead/sheet pretty well. There was a post some time ago about CG Second Skin and the fact that it didn't bead well, so you might want to read about that. Read this and that.

With most of these -- probably all coatings -- everything is in the prep and application. If your car wasn't properly washed, decontaminated, polished and removed of all residues, then the coating isn't going to bond well with the surface of your clear coat. If the surface is properly prepped, coating applications have different temperature and humidity requirements. These all affect application.

I'd find out what exactly was done and what coating was put on your car.

Report back! :xyxthumbs:
 
How are you washing the car? What was the behavior like shortly after the coating was applied? Was it coated in at least 68 degree ambient temperature?
What coating did you have applied?

Not sure about the 68 degree thing? I know some coatings apply easier in ideal temp but with out even knowing what coating was applied how is this relevant?
 
Call the shop that did the coating and get the brand. Right now there are just too many variables.
 
Thanks. They are my winter wheels. When I get in contact with the detailer, I will ask the brand of the coating and report back. Thanks for the tips so far.
 
Not sure about the 68 degree thing? I know some coatings apply easier in ideal temp but with out even knowing what coating was applied how is this relevant?


Lower temperatures may not allow for proper bonding of certain coatings. I believe that CQuartz Finest is one of them.
 
I just called and they said the coating was HyperCoat Pro by Dupont. They said it must be applied in 20 degrees C(68 degrees F). This evening I'm going to drop the car off again for them to take the entire coat off and apply it again. I believe the application temperature might have been a factor.
 
Think about putting a spoonful of honey in cold water versus hot, which takes longer to dissolve the honey? It's a similar thing, certain variables needs to be meet for bonding to optimal occur. This could be your problem, but since you didn't do the work it's hard to say what exactly happened to your BMW.

Have you inspected in the paint? What exactly did you pay for? Paint correction and coating?
 
I appears your detailer used one of the lesser known products here. The information I could find was in Southeast Asia and the Middle East, unfortunately I couldn't understand most of it. But the videos I found showed more of a sheeting ability versus standard beeding. I will be curious to hear what you find out.
 
I got the scoop from the detail shop.

They did paint correction before applying this RG Masterpiece Glass coating(see picture) last month. I believe it was not applied using the proper technique or that coating does not bead very well.

They stripped the old coating off the car today and applied the Hyper Coat Pro by Dupont(see picture). The car looks to have more of a glossy shine this time and the shine from the carbon fiber roof sticks out very much. I will let the car sit for the night and in a few days test out the check out the water beading.
Better pictures here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/69612651@N08/
 
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