audi ceramic clear coat

wildwilly1

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I have a 06 audi a8 personal vehicle it has ceramic clear and is black on top of that. bought it 1mth ago not sure about car as far as being buffed before I got it. I have used the porter cable and surbuf on it. decent correction from what it was. it still has quite a bit of spiderwebbing and random scratches. my next course of action will be rotary with meguirs wool pad and 105 followed with foam pad 205 then wax if paint is good enough what do you think of this plan good bad ? what are your thoughts thx
 
what menz products would you suggest with pads for the da I am willing to try whatever. I figure I could get the menz products and a couple good pads to try with the da first but what product pad combo?
 
I have always had fantastic results with Menzerna FG400 with a Lake Country Cyan Hydro tech pad on my G110v2.

Also SF4000 on a tangerine hydro pad will clear up any hazing left behind.
 
I have always had fantastic results with Menzerna FG400 with a Lake Country Cyan Hydro tech pad on my G110v2.

Also SF4000 on a tangerine hydro pad will clear up any hazing left behind.

:iagree:

Just rememeber to do a test spot ad dial in your process then repeat this on the rest of the car.
 
I have quite a bit of m205 do you think the menz m400 with cyan pad and m205 with good polishing pad would work
 
You might even want to try a Finishing pad with M205 if thats what you want to do. You will want to lessen the amount of cut it has by using light pressure and with a finishing pad.
 
I have done 3 Audi's with ceramic clears and I think the end results speak for themselves.

Menz PF2500 / LC Cyan pad
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/64717-ibis-white-audi-rs3-detailed-lawrence.html

Menzerna SF4000 / LC Tangerine Pad. This was a new car and only needed to clean up holograms etc from a previous hack job
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/71133-daytona-grey-audi-rs3-detailed-lawrence.html

Menz PF2500 / LC Cyan pad
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/69304-another-ibis-white-audi-rs3-detailed-lawrence.html

My point is that for heavy swirl removal, FG400 WILL work a treat, but given the sensitivity of ceramic clears (i.e. with the ceramic portion migrating to the top 0.2 microns to form the 'hard protective layer', which, once polished through compromises the integrity of the finish) it may be wise to rather scale down the amount of cut you need, in order to preserve the clear.

It all depends on the end goal but for your own daily driver I would not be chasing perfection in the paint at the expense of the clear. If any of the above 3 cars were mine (oh how I wish) I would be happy enough with the condition of the paint, even though it was not perfect.

Each to their own though and these are just my thoughts....
 
I agree I do not expect it perfect but I do want to get it as close as possible. also I would not like to take a second mtg out on the house buying product for this. what do you guys think of the fg400 with cyan pad followed by m205 with a good polishing pad also will a glaze or something else after correction before wax help with what imperfections are left ?
 
I have already tried m105 and surbufpad with the porter cable not much help
 
but given the sensitivity of ceramic clears (i.e. with the ceramic portion migrating to the top 0.2 microns to form the 'hard protective layer', which, once polished through compromises the integrity of the finish) it may be wise to rather scale down the amount of cut you need, in order to preserve the clear.

It all depends on the end goal but for your own daily driver I would not be chasing perfection in the paint at the expense of the clear.


Sound advice.


I love Ceramiclear paints for the benefits they offer. The key thing is when you get a car with a Ceramiclear finish first educate yourself about the paint system itself, second educate anyone that will be working on it, and then always use the least aggressive product to get the job done and once you get the paint to where you like it then take care of it in a way that you won't have to polish/abrade it in any way if at all possible.


:)
 
Since there are special considerations with ceramic clears, you might want to look into this further to be sure.

While many internet voices say Audi uses ceramic clear, I've never found official confirmation of that, and the detailing people I've talked to have said it's not ceramic, just a hard clear.

For example, PPG publishes this chart for Mercedes-Benz models showing paint type by manufacturing plant and model:
http://www.ppg.com/coatings/refinis.../mercedes_info_CeramiClearbyModelandPlant.pdf
(sidebar: it would be nice if all manufacturers published such charts. Here's a list of PPG bulletins and info by manufacturer but it includes all PPG paints not just ceramiclear: Industry Info - Refinish ))

but there is no such chart that I can find for Audi, from PPG or other.

So your Audi clear (unless it's an aftermarket ceramiclear paint job that you have documentation for) might just be one of the hard clears but without the special considerations of ceramic clear.

Also it seems there are 2-part ceramic clears (thin top layer ceramic and separate base layer that's not ceramic) and 1-part where the ceramic is integrated.

But in any case this is a difficult topic to find definitive info on.
 
cant figure out pic thing but the places are mars and scratches all over car cannot feel them with fingernail so not that deep though
 
mildly neglected. paint has a good shine just cobwebbing and scratching all over
 
decided on a game plan here goes porter cable da with optimum micro fiber pad menzerna fg400 compound followed up with m205 and a meguirs foam polishing pad do this on a test spot and check how it does then adjust according to finish. one side note I got a 500 watt halogen lamp and boy this shows everything unbelievable what shows is this what is normally used as a light source up close. if so then I got a lot of work ahead of me for sure . kinda scared me
 
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