Best 3 step method

Thanks so much for all this info. Greatly appreciated. I’ve always been a fan of Meguiar’s. In my opinion they have excellent products at a fair price. I would like to start trying out their mirror glaze line of products eventually when I run out of my other compounds and polishes.


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Meguiars Ultimate is consumer-grade if I'm not mistaken. You probably would be better served using their detailer and pro-line products. I started with the Ultimate products but found them lacking once I discovered pro products (Megs, McKees, Wolfgang, et. al.).
 
Opps...misread your post above, you have the pads but not the M105/M205? Correct?

Thought you had both pads and the M105 and M205 in possession.

Anyway---Heard nothing but good results from the M105/M205 combination.

Sorry for the confusion...

Tom

It’s all good. No worries


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Meguiars Ultimate is consumer-grade if I'm not mistaken. You probably would be better served using their detailer and pro-line products. I started with the Ultimate products but found them lacking once I discovered pro products (Megs, McKees, Wolfgang, et. al.).

How were they lacking?


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Hello to everyone!
What’s everyone’s favorite 3 step method as far as compound, polish, and then wax/sealant/coating? I have been using Meguiar’s DA polisher with Meg’s D300, Meg’s Ultimate Polish, and usually Ultimate Wax. I know these aren’t the absolute best products but they gave me pretty good results (I’m sorry I don’t have pictures to show). I have been hearing good things about Griot’s and 3D’s line. Let me know what your go to products and tools are. That would be awesome!

Thanks so much!


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IMO your product choice is fine! Compound/Polish and then a LSP. No problem with what you are doing. However, many cases you might not need to compound if there are only minor swirls and scratches. That would be a 2-Step.Polish and LSP. Griot's and 3D are fine products too. It is just a matter of preference if you want to change. I know my go-to compound and polish are the Menzerna brand. I have not changed ever since because I have had excellent results. I have added 3M Perfect It Ultra Fine 3000 as it is more of a jeweling polish. But as it stands you are OK. Pictures please when you can!
 
IMO your product choice is fine! Compound/Polish and then a LSP. No problem with what you are doing. However, many cases you might not need to compound if there are only minor swirls and scratches. That would be a 2-Step.Polish and LSP. Griot's and 3D are fine products too. It is just a matter of preference if you want to change. I know my go-to compound and polish are the Menzerna brand. I have not changed ever since because I have had excellent results. I have added 3M Perfect It Ultra Fine 3000 as it is more of a jeweling polish. But as it stands you are OK. Pictures please when you can!

Menzerna 3800 is a jeweling polish
 
Thanks so much for all this info. Greatly appreciated. I’ve always been a fan of Meguiar’s. In my opinion they have excellent products at a fair price. I would like to start trying out their mirror glaze line of products eventually when I run out of my other compounds and polishes.


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Yeah, no worries.

You could even try the Ultimate Compound in place of D300. I have a difficult time telling the difference though.

If you want to see me take Ultimate Compound to task, there is an album on my profile where I use it to remove 1000 grit sanding marks with a Porter Cable, and green foam pads.

The more you use and familiarize yourself with whatever products you decide to go with, the better YOU will get at using them.
 
Yeah, no worries.

You could even try the Ultimate Compound in place of D300. I have a difficult time telling the difference though.

If you want to see me take Ultimate Compound to task, there is an album on my profile where I use it to remove 1000 grit sanding marks with a Porter Cable, and green foam pads.

The more you use and familiarize yourself with whatever products you decide to go with, the better YOU will get at using them.

woah, I've got to see that! I tried looking at your albums and even though I can clearly see the album that says "Ultimate Compound vs 1000 grit" when I click it all it says is "this user does not have any albums to display"
 
I think most systems will work well. M105/M205 does a good job. I hate the fact M105 dusts so much but it does cut very well and finish well too.

D300/D301 is probably superior being a newer technology. I only use D300, and most of the time I mix it 50/50 with M105 in hopes of going through my gallon of M105. When I mix it, it dusts a lot less and I don't see a reduction in cut or finishing ability. I have not used D301, I follow with M205, D151 or D166.

Ultimate Compound/Polish also works well. But I feel like UC lacks the cutting ability of D300 or M105. If the paint is not bad, it will do a very good job. I would not hesitate to use it but it would not be my first choice.

As for other companies, you will find fans of almost every brands, so I assume they also work very well.

One of the major factors you should evaluate is the price of the products. Some products cost a lot more than others, and they are not gonna give you any noticable improvements. Forensic details did a comparisson of compounds a while back. Results were similar but some products were twice as expensive.
 
I think most systems will work well. M105/M205 does a good job. I hate the fact M105 dusts so much but it does cut very well and finish well too.

D300/D301 is probably superior being a newer technology. I only use D300, and most of the time I mix it 50/50 with M105 in hopes of going through my gallon of M105. When I mix it, it dusts a lot less and I don't see a reduction in cut or finishing ability. I have not used D301, I follow with M205, D151 or D166.

Ultimate Compound/Polish also works well. But I feel like UC lacks the cutting ability of D300 or M105. If the paint is not bad, it will do a very good job. I would not hesitate to use it but it would not be my first choice.

As for other companies, you will find fans of almost every brands, so I assume they also work very well.

One of the major factors you should evaluate is the price of the products. Some products cost a lot more than others, and they are not gonna give you any noticable improvements. Forensic details did a comparisson of compounds a while back. Results were similar but some products were twice as expensive.

Thanks for the informative post. It helps a lot. I dig the D300. It cuts so good with a microfiber pad. I think I will have to add M205 to follow up after D300. I used UP but I just feel something isn’t right with it when I use it for some reason. UP removal isn’t as easy as I would like it to be. The surface sounds squeaky when I remove the polish. Has this happened to anyone else?


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How are you removing the product? The ultimate line is geared towards consumers, so they have more polishing oils in them so that the product can be worked outside and give you more work time. If you wipe it off and use an IPA to clean the surface, you should not be having issues. I have used it for a while when I started 6 years ago and never had issues with it.

Comparativelly speaking, M105 has more cut than UC, and M205 has more cut than UP (corrected). So in theory UP should give you a slightly better finish than M205. You can dilute M205 with water to have an even finer cut for jewelling. I have never tried that since I don't do show cars but I plan on trying it on my own car this year. I also have a show car to work on this spring so I might give it a try... will depend what budget the customer has and in what shape the paint is. (corrected too).
 
Thanks for the informative post. It helps a lot. I dig the D300. It cuts so good with a microfiber pad. I think I will have to add M205 to follow up after D300. I used UP but I just feel something isn’t right with it when I use it for some reason. UP removal isn’t as easy as I would like it to be. The surface sounds squeaky when I remove the polish. Has this happened to anyone else?


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Does Ultimate Polish sometimes leave a clear deposit that resists wiping off?
 
I completely adore the Rupes polishing system.

While last year I used Meguiar’s M100 / M205 / M26 on a good majority of my details (ALL delivered stunning results)...

I STILL love the simple idea of a system and plan on returning to the entire Rupes system.

93e7cbb4140d8efc85953e49f55a2673.jpg


This Covette Stingray with all Meguiar’s!



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woah, I've got to see that! I tried looking at your albums and even though I can clearly see the album that says "Ultimate Compound vs 1000 grit" when I click it all it says is "this user does not have any albums to display"

It won't display to me either! I can click on my "random" album, but not the UC vs 1000, or M105 vs 1000...

I'll contact one of the mods. I haven't been able to load pics since the system upgrade.
 
I completely adore the Rupes polishing system.

While last year I used Meguiar’s M100 / M205 / M26 on a good majority of my details (ALL delivered stunning results)...

I STILL love the simple idea of a system and plan on returning to the entire Rupes system.

93e7cbb4140d8efc85953e49f55a2673.jpg


This Covette Stingray with all Meguiar’s!



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I'm right there with ya.
 
How are you removing the product? The ultimate line is geared towards consumers, so they have more polishing oils in them so that the product can be worked outside and give you more work time. If you wipe it off and use an IPA to clean the surface, you should not be having issues. I have used it for a while when I started 6 years ago and never had issues with it.

Comparativelly speaking, M105 has more cut than UC, and M205 has more cut than UP (corrected). So in theory UP should give you a slightly better finish than M205. You can dilute M205 with water to have an even finer cut for jewelling. I have never tried that since I don't do show cars but I plan on trying it on my own car this year. I also have a show car to work on this spring so I might give it a try... will depend what budget the customer has and in what shape the paint is. (corrected too).

I remove UP with a microfiber towel once I’m done with the section I’m working on. That when the surface is “squeaky”. After that, I use McKee’s 37 N-914 at paint prep to remove the oils from the polish. This step seems to be fine. It’s only when I remove the initial residue from polishing.


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