Best clay-bar or substitute to minimize marring on soft paints

WRXINXS

WRXINXS

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All the cars in my family are Japanese with the typical soft clear coat. What is the best way to clay to minimize marring?

1. Traditional fine grade clay-bar? Any brand suggestions?

2. Clay substitutes (Opti-Eraser/Nanoskin/Speedy Prep/Chemical guys etc?)

I have used Opti-Eraser a few times but the cars I was working on were swirled up so I could not get a great read on marring with the eraser. The bar did seem grabby though. Optimum claims that it leaves less marring that traditional clay. I heard that Nanonskin Autoscrub Speedy Prep Sponge might be less graby

I have also used Clay magic blue (Mild) and another brand (Cant remember the name) green fine grade clay in the past and got a good bit of marring on my Subaru.

Any suggestions/tips on how to clay a car with soft clear. Going really slow or extra lubricant etc?

Also, is there a benefit to using a bottle of pre-mixed lubricant like DP or Nanoskin or CG Luber over mixing up ONR myself?

Finally, if I wanted to remove the marring afterwards and wanted to use a paint cleaner instead of doing a full polishing, would using a paint cleaner and my PC with a black finishing pad remove the marring?

Thanks,
Drew
 
EDIT: just read you've already used clay magic. You could try the pinnacle ultra fine clay.

Clay magic blue clay is my fav, it's a traditional clay bar. The clay substitutes are easier and more efficient, but they marr too much. I like using a dedicated clay lube over a rinseless concentrate. As far as a paint cleaner, are you talking about an AIO?
 
FivePoint.0 said:
EDIT: just read you've already used clay magic. You could try the pinnacle ultra fine clay.

Clay magic blue clay is my fav, it's a traditional clay bar. The clay substitutes are easier and more efficient, but they marr too much. I like using a dedicated clay lube over a rinseless concentrate. As far as a paint cleaner, are you talking about an AIO?
Click to expand...

Hi Mark!

I was thinking about applying Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer or something similar with my PC after the clay session. Just wondering if applying this with a black LC pad would be enough on a soft clear (My mom's Infiniti) to remove any marring left by claying?

Did you find that Opti-Eraser marred more than traditional clay even though Optimum says its the other way around?

Drew
 
WRXINXS said:
Hi Mark!

I was thinking about applying Wolfgang Paintwork Polish Enhancer or something similar with my PC after the clay session. Just wondering if applying this with a black LC pad would be enough on a soft clear (My mom's Infiniti) to remove any marring left by claying?

Did you find that Opti-Eraser marred more than traditional clay even though Optimum says its the other way around?

Drew
Click to expand...
Hey Drew,

I'm not sure the paint polish will remove any marring as it's a chemical cleaner. The black pad may have a tiny bit of cut that might remove the marring, but this combo wouldn't be my first choice for removing marring.

Opti eraser marred the same, if not more than traditional clay. Plus, it's grabby, no good. With soft clear, there may not be any clay product that won't marr.
 
FivePoint.0 said:
Hey Drew,

I'm not sure the paint polish will remove any marring as it's a chemical cleaner. The black pad may have a tiny bit of cut that might remove the marring, but this combo wouldn't be my first choice for removing marring.

Opti eraser marred the same, if not more than traditional clay. Plus, it's grabby, no good. With soft clear, there may not be any clay product that won't marr.
Click to expand...

I think you are right Mark, soft clear and clay just have a hard time working together!

Drew
 
WRXINXS said:
I think you are right Mark, soft clear and clay just have a hard time working together!

Drew
Click to expand...

Clay and soft paint do not play well together. Proceed with care and be prepared to do some minor polishing afterwards.

If I am working on a very soft paint, I will try Megs white clay, Sonus white clay or Pinnacle green clay. They are the 3 finest clay I have seen.
Sonus SFX Ultra-Fine Detailing Clay, clay bars, auto clay, paint cleaning bar

Besides, it might be too cold and the clay get hard.
I make sure my clay and lube are above 25*C / 77F by soaking in warm water before use.

:props:
 
Clay is abrasive by nature so it can remove bonded contaminates. If you clay typically expect to at least do a 1-step polish. Nothing you can do to prevent some amount of marring on scratch sensitive clear coats.
 
I got on the clay alternative kick, but that is now gone. I'm back to traditional clay. Although, it's more effort, and not as quick, the results are better.
 
Hi Drew...

WRXINXS said:
All the cars in my family are Japanese with the typical soft clear coat.

Wouldn't it be nice to find out what "grade" of Japanese-patented auto-clay they use
at the OEM Japanese-branded-vehicles' assembly plants for overspray, etc.!!!

(As far as that goes...at any given OEM vehicle assembly plant)

a.)What is the best way to clay to minimize marring?
b.)Any suggestions/tips on how to clay a car with soft clear. Going really slow or extra lubricant etc?

Quite difficult at times..."Operator's claying-efficacy", paint systems, grade of clay,
clay lube<<<(copious amount would cause excess "hydroplaning"/less contaminates pick-up)...
are some of the factors to be considered...IMO.

[I, for one, have always followed a claying-session with a polishing-session.
A Test-Spot, (least aggressive first) usually will be the determinant
of the extent of polishing necessary for, at least, the marring-removal.]


1. Traditional fine grade clay-bar? Any brand suggestions?

Since you've already used:
A. "Clay magic blue (Mild) and
B. another brand (Cant remember the name) green fine grade clay in the past

^^^Was it: Sonus SFX Ultra Fine Detailing Clay?^^^

There's also: Swissvax Paint Rubber (original edition of ClayMagic) you might try.

But...***My favorite*** Japanese-sourced auto-clay:
***Griot's Garage***...sort of Yellow-looking Clay...It works as advertised:
"After you wipe it dry...Your paint's finish is like a baby's butt... Without the streaks"!!!


2. Clay substitutes (Opti-Eraser/Nanoskin/Speedy Prep/Chemical guys etc?)

^^^No input...Have yet to try any.^^^


Optimum(<<<See Below)


Also, is there a benefit to using a bottle of pre-mixed lubricant like DP or Nanoskin or CG Luber over mixing up ONR myself?

Some clay re-sellers, because of their request to the Japanese auto-clay manufacturers to
tweak the clay's "grade" for their market, recommend their clay lube.

I often just use the same car wash shampoo that I use to wash the vehicle...
Afterall: Auto-clay has a synthetic detergent as part of its formulation.


Finally, if I wanted to remove the marring afterwards and wanted to use a paint cleaner instead of doing a full polishing,
would using a paint cleaner and my PC with a black finishing pad remove the marring?

If you're going the Pinnacle Paintwork Cleansing Lotion route:

By hand...Microfiber applicator pad
By machine...LC White foam polishing pad

These particular-pads should afford 'a little more bite'
Polishing is what removes marring...IMHO.

Also: Make sure you use a plush MF towel for all excess product/haze removal
Click to expand...

RE: Optimum (from above)

Don't know if it's the same Optimum Polymer Technologies Company/Owner...But:

It would be nice to hear from those that have had the opportunity to use:
Optimum Opti-Clay...Said to be more durable, has more elasticity, more adhesion properties than:
..............(because it is based on cross-linked polybutene resin technology)..............
than: Clay Magic's (owner of the Japanese clay-patents for now)

It was only available outside of the USA and Japan.

Opti-Clay, of course, was taken off the market...But is rumored to now be called:
Ricardo Clay...THE famous yellow clay...from the same manufacturer of Opti-Clay

:)

Bob
 
That Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay paired with Pinnacle Clay Lubricant gets really good reviews. As Bob mentioned the Griots seems pretty nice and mild as well. BTW Bob very useful info in your post. I am kinda sold on using a dedicated clay lube for extra protection on paint this soft. If I go with Pinnacle I will use the Pinnacle Lube.

Mark, what is your favorite dedicated clay lube that offers the most protection without hyperlubricating?
 
BTW would Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay be the finest/mildest clay availabe? Or would the Sonus or something else be the finest?
 
I think any of the dedicated clay lubes AG offers will work great. As you stated, you don't want there to be too much lubrication. Hydro plaining when claying defeats the purpose. With a dedicated clay lube, I would assume the companies had this in mind.

No idea in regards to pinnacle vs. sonus clay.
 
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