Best DA Polisher for Beginner

For me, I did alll the research and spent alot of money buying what I didn't need...I bought the one that is used on AirForce One and it didn't meet my day to day needs. I bought the Griot's and I didn't think it was powerful enough...Then I spent the good money on the Flex and I have never looked back...BTW...I have two D/A's for sale...lol
 
swanicyouth said:
Get a Griots GG6. It has the power to spin 6.5" pads, and has the versatility to use pads as small as 3". I don't believe a Flex or Rupes can use pads that small.

When using my Griots, I may jump from a 6.5" pad to a 3" pad, depending on the area I'm working on. Using the right size pad really helps. You'd be amazed how many areas require 3-4" pads on newer or sports cars. Also, sometimes, like on hoods, using a 6.5" pad can speed things up if your just doing minor correction or applying glaze or wax.

The advantage the Griots has is that it has the power to easily spin large pads. The other two machines (PC / Meg's) tend to bog down easier. The Griots even has the power to correct glass with the right pads and polish. A PC may be more reliable, but the Griots does come with a lifetime warranty - others I believe is one year.

Using a different size pad is as easy as unscrewing the backing plate. I was a PC user for years, but I switched to a Griots when they redesigned them and were selling them for $99. I'm very happy with it. And it's smooth and powerful for me.

If I was starting all over, I would want to start with a Rupes. However, correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't believe the 15 or the 21 can be used with a 3" backing plate (none made ?) - and that would be a deal breaker for me. I use 3-4" pads 40% of the time.

As for the Flex, I've never used it. But if your doing this has a hobby (occasionally) and are just starting out, for the price of a new Flex, you can get a Griots DA, multiple backing plates and pads, polishes, etc... - everything you need.
Click to expand...

I agree. A GG6 is a perfect balance between power and reasonable price. Expensive DA's like the Flex & Rupes are designed with the professional in mind, able to withstand the day to day heavy use and faster correction ability. You can do ANYTHING the Flex or Rupes can do with a GG6.

So whats the overall difference? With a flex youll be able to correct an estimated 40-50% faster. Is that worth 3-4 hundred dollars more? IMO unless your in the business, I wouldnt think so. You can use that money to buy pads & products.

At the end of the day, either your paint looks swirl free, or it doesnt. Regardless of what DA you used to achieve that. I know some detailers that will run circles on people with expensive DA's, with a PORTER CABLE. ;)
 
Thanks for all the advise.. Greatly appreciated

GG6.. A friend of mine gave me his Meg W67DA backing plate 5" and 6" pads and well as a LC 3.5" backing plate with 4" pads. Does the GG6 work well with these?
 
Also.. with regards to the GG6 is the 3rd generation (10813) the best to get vs GG6 10765I assuming 2nd generation??.. Price difference is only $20
 
motors said:
Thanks for all the advise.. Greatly appreciated

GG6.. A friend of mine gave me his Meg W67DA backing plate 5" and 6" pads and well as a LC 3.5" backing plate with 4" pads. Does the GG6 work well with these?
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LoL absolutely, thats my current set up! Exact to the tee, W67DA with 6.5 pads & 3.5 LC plate with 4" pads. How well does it work? Look up my posts for reference ;)
 
motors said:
Also.. with regards to the GG6 is the 3rd generation (10813) the best to get vs GG6 10765I assuming 2nd generation??.. Price difference is only $20
Click to expand...

Yes absolutely! Ergonomically I hate my 2nd gen GG compared to my now sold PC 7424 XP. On the 3rd gen GG, they have switched the buttons to be exactly like the PC 7424 XP and extra cushioning unique to the GG.

If I had to do it over again, I would've got the 3rd gen GG.
 
swanicyouth said:
Get a Griots GG6. It has the power to spin 6.5" pads, and has the versatility to use pads as small as 3". I don't believe a Flex or Rupes can use pads that small.

When using my Griots, I may jump from a 6.5" pad to a 3" pad, depending on the area I'm working on. Using the right size pad really helps. You'd be amazed how many areas require 3-4" pads on newer or sports cars. Also, sometimes, like on hoods, using a 6.5" pad can speed things up if your just doing minor correction or applying glaze or wax.

The advantage the Griots has is that it has the power to easily spin large pads. The other two machines (PC / Meg's) tend to bog down easier. The Griots even has the power to correct glass with the right pads and polish. A PC may be more reliable, but the Griots does come with a lifetime warranty - others I believe is one year.

Using a different size pad is as easy as unscrewing the backing plate. I was a PC user for years, but I switched to a Griots when they redesigned them and were selling them for $99. I'm very happy with it. And it's smooth and powerful for me.

for the price of a new Flex, you can get a Griots DA, multiple backing plates and pads, polishes, etc... - everything you need.
Click to expand...

Thanks a TON... this is exactly what I'd have said!

So.... :iagree: exactly with :whs:

To the OP; Get the GG6 you'll be glad you did! The ability to drive large pads, plus change pad sizes is something you'll grow to love. But, (and this is HUGE) do some homework and get TWICE as many pads as you think you'll need. In all honesty, the cost of the DA is chump change to what you'll end up spending on pads. :rolleyes:
 
I just purchased the gg second gen. which came with 6 inch backing plate and 5 white lcc 6 inch pads. I also purchased a 5 inch lcc backing plate and 18 five and a half Inch lcc flats assorted pads . The pads almost equal the price of the buffer itself . But I'd rather have to many then get caught up having to clean them in the middle of a paint correction.

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AG Online
 
cardaddy said:
Thanks a TON... this is exactly what I'd have said!

So.... :iagree: exactly with :whs:

To the OP; Get the GG6 you'll be glad you did! The ability to drive large pads, plus change pad sizes is something you'll grow to love. But, (and this is HUGE) do some homework and get TWICE as many pads as you think you'll need. In all honesty, the cost of the DA is chump change to what you'll end up spending on pads. :rolleyes:
Click to expand...


clean and wash your pads and they will last longer.
 
What's the best way to clean pad. I was thinking to do a on the fly cleaning and then soak them in a apc or dawn mixture . Then rinse and ring them out well . And then them foam side down on a terry clothe to dry out. Is this a good method?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AG Online
 
jgibson2980 said:
What's the best way to clean pad. I was thinking to do a on the fly cleaning and then soak them in a apc or dawn mixture . Then rinse and ring them out well . And then them foam side down on a terry clothe to dry out. Is this a good method?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AG Online
Click to expand...

The way I do it, I clean on the fly often with a MF towel. The reason I dont use a Terry cloth is because I find that they like to lint like crazy, and leave lint material all over my pad. Its a huge hassle trying to get it off.

I wouldnt recommend Dawn either. It works ok and its cheap, but the soap residue it leaves behind will be a pain to fully remove from your pads. Youll see this as soap bubbles when you squeeze them. If your serious about detailing, I highly recommend a dedicated pad cleaner like the one below:
www.autogeekonline.net/forum/product-reviews/59765-review-wolfgang-polishing-pad-rejuvenator.html
 
Since I can't afford much, I have no option but to use Dawn and/or APC+. Rarely use the apc+.

Dawn has/will remove DG 501/601 and Collinite 845 for me without fail as long as I use hot water and spend the necessary time to completely rinse the pads, perhaps even soaking them in pure non-diluted soap for a while. Never had an issue with my Meguiar's pads backings coming loose. Of course, my situation is only one scenario and others may have different experiences.

If you see bubble's there's only only one reason you see them; the soap wasn't rinsed completely. Spend the time, do the work, and rinse the pads thoroughly. Has worked for me on Meguiar's pads, Lake country pads, and Buff-n-shine pads, without fail. Again, there are factors involved, and what I do somone else may not do.

I wash in the sink with hot water and have zero issues. Zero.
 
CM8 6MT said:
I agree. A GG6 is a perfect balance between power and reasonable price. Expensive DA's like the Flex & Rupes are designed with the professional in mind, able to withstand the day to day heavy use and faster correction ability. You can do ANYTHING the Flex or Rupes can do with a GG6.

So whats the overall difference? With a flex youll be able to correct an estimated 40-50% faster. Is that worth 3-4 hundred dollars more? IMO unless your in the business, I wouldnt think so. You can use that money to buy pads & products.

At the end of the day, either your paint looks swirl free, or it doesnt. Regardless of what DA you used to achieve that. I know some detailers that will run circles on people with expensive DA's, with a PORTER CABLE. ;)
Click to expand...

A porter cable?? Maybe a GG6, I had a GG6, it does work great, but just bought a Rupes. To me, if there is a product that can do the work faster and just as safe, I will try to get it. I love working in my vehicles, but when you have a F350 four door long bed. You'll want a faster machine.




Sent from my iPhone using AG Online
 
Hoytman said:
Since I can't afford much, I have no option but to use Dawn and/or APC+. Rarely use the apc+.

Dawn has/will remove DG 501/601 and Collinite 845 for me without fail as long as I use hot water and spend the necessary time to completely rinse the pads, perhaps even soaking them in pure non-diluted soap for a while. Never had an issue with my Meguiar's pads backings coming loose. Of course, my situation is only one scenario and others may have different experiences.

If you see bubble's there's only only one reason you see them; the soap wasn't rinsed completely. Spend the time, do the work, and rinse the pads thoroughly. Has worked for me on Meguiar's pads, Lake country pads, and Buff-n-shine pads, without fail. Again, there are factors involved, and what I do somone else may not do.

I wash in the sink with hot water and have zero issues. Zero.
Click to expand...

I use Apc+ without a problem aswell. Also let dirty pads soak in apc+ for a day with no effect.


Sent from my iPhone using AG Online
 
Jomax said:
I love working in my vehicles, but when you have a F350 four door long bed. You'll want a faster machine.
Click to expand...

I have a GG6, but when im looking for speed, I just pick up an RB, not a DA.
 
ihaveacamaro said:
Anything that corrects faster is less safe. It's the way of the DA world
Click to expand...

:iagree:
As pad rotational speed translates to heat then there is a very fast approaching threshold to where you move from polishing/correction to melting/burning Not just the paint, but especially the pads as speed increases and they have no way to shed their thermal load.

Which is exactly why the DA has become so popluar in the last few years, (IE it does give optimal speed and results) while bringing in an entire new base of users to the world of paint care.

Most of which btw, would have never picked up a rotary buffer!
 
jgibson2980 said:
What's the best way to clean pad. I was thinking to do a on the fly cleaning and then soak them in a apc or dawn mixture . Then rinse and ring them out well . And then them foam side down on a terry clothe to dry out. Is this a good method?

Sent from my SPH-L710 using AG Online
Click to expand...

Best would be a pad washer, but for those that aren't pros it's not worth it for us. I think if you got 4 of each type that you need that would be enough for one car. I soak my pads in hot water with cg pad cleaner for 15 to 20 minutes. Rinse under warm water and if there's still a lot of polish or wax still coming out while rinsing, I repeat the soaking again. Polish should always come out on the first try. Wax on the other hand will probably take two tries.
 
Flex 3401

LESS technique and experience is needed with the Flex 3401 compared to a traditional DA. Why? Due to the forced rotation, the pad is spinning CONSISTENTLY, whether you use a lot of pressure, or no pressure at all. This is NOT the case with a traditional DA(PCXP, GG, etc..). Consistent pad spinning = more efficient polishing results. Make sense?

The 3401 feels harder to control, but once you get the hang of it, and keep the pad flat, you're good to go.
 
When removing swirls with the Girots DA , what speed should you use?
 
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