Best One Stepper?

Well I guess my question then is you wouldnt start with an orange with an AIO and then go back over it with a white with the AIO again? Thats why its an AIO right?
 
cwpcasey said:
Well I guess my question then is you wouldnt start with an orange with an AIO and then go back over it with a white with the AIO again? Thats why its an AIO right?
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AIO= all in one, meaning a light polish and wax/sealant in one. Technically, you could go over the paint again with a less aggressive pad, but that would be considered a 2 step polish. Most people won't use AIO's as 2 steps, just 1 step. :xyxthumbs: With an AIO, I don't like to use anything more aggressive than a white pad, and only 1 step.
 
cwpcasey said:
I know thats why I asked what pad you would use?
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I don't like to use anything more aggressive than a white pad. If you do, you might run into problems with micro-marring(even though the wax would probably cover it up). JMO.
 
D151 is one of my favorite products period.

Put it into Autogeek Ketchup style bottles and you're good to go.

Very easy on with good cutting ability and very easy off with nice protection left behind...what more could you want?

I have used 151 as a single step product on Orange, White and Green pads. When used on Orange it was on a car with severe oxidation that only wanted a single step and the light marring left behind was worth the extra cleanup that the orange pad did over the white or green pad.
 
FinalTouchAuto said:
When used on Orange it was on a car with severe oxidation that only wanted a single step and the light marring left behind was worth the extra cleanup that the orange pad did over the white or green pad.
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Ya know, that's a good point. Most of the marring will be covered up by the wax/sealant left behind. Once the protection wears off, the marring will be more visible, but shouldn't be tooooo bad. :dblthumb2:
 
I personally like PB's Polish w/ Sealant. I find it is super easy to work with and provides decent correction. I also have XMT360 and like it but have had mixed results with that.
 
07 z-oh-6 said:
Ya know, that's a good point. Most of the marring will be covered up by the wax/sealant left behind. Once the protection wears off, the marring will be more visible, but shouldn't be tooooo bad. :dblthumb2:
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Yeah, when doing a single step it's always about finding the best compromise between cleanup ability and finish.
 
I just used optim. poli-seal on a white enclave and it turned out great with a green pad. Very easy to use. I also like poorboys polish with sealant.
 
I have been using Griot's One Step Sealant via GG orange pads and PC for years. Applies and removes like a dream, smells great and is very durable.
Today I used Meg's D151 for the first time. My test subject was a moderately swirled Nissan Murano, copper in color. I used it several ways, Makita with orange LC CCS, PC with green LC CCS, and then I tried some panels with both. Obviously if you are one stepping, you wouldn't want to do both, however it was very effective, and at less than $30 a gallon, it's more cost effective than M205, and just as easy to use. I don't at all care for the scent, and it is very thick.
 
I've been using Klasse AIO and have had allot of success with it. I use it on a green or white Lake County pad and am always impressed with the results.
 
BobbyG said:
I've been using Klasse AIO and have had allot of success with it. I use it on a green or white Lake County pad and am always impressed with the results.
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I had a hard time removeing Klasse, do you have a problem with it?
 
Emm said:
I had a hard time removeing Klasse, do you have a problem with it?
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No, not at all.

I think one of the easiest things to do is to apply too much product. I put a a couple of nickel sized spots on the pad then work it into the paint until it becomes somewhat transparent. I let it dry and then buff off.

It is more difficult to remove than let's say a nice wax after it hazes but not all that much.
 
BobbyG said:
No, not at all.

I think one of the easiest things to do is to apply too much product. I put a a couple of nickel sized spots on the pad then work it into the paint until it becomes somewhat transparent. I let it dry and then buff off.

It is more difficult to remove than let's say a nice wax after it hazes but not all that much.
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I always tend to use to much of anything I apply! lol
 
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