Best Topper for A Coating

BlackFire Crystal Seal Or Wolfgang Deep Gloss Liquid seal (same thing)...They behave just like coatings and they are WOWAs...10 minutes and you can gloss up...or off...or on...whatever.
 
FUNX725 said:
If they really, truly, meet the criteria of being a 'Coating'...

Should manufacturers have to produce "cover-ups" for them? (Except for the "making-some-extra-money" factor, that is.)


Bob
Click to expand...

So Bob.....I bought PBL coating with synergy wax...do not need the wax I guess? Your thoughts please....
 
Ebg18t said:
I don't think anyone was attempting to belittle any other member. Heck I tried it and couldn't really tell the difference on my cars, not to mention it didn't hold up well. But I think I didn't hold up well as it couldn't bond properly to the coating underneath. I just didn't want to see anyone else to spend the money and be disappointed.
Click to expand...

Yes, I understand, and didn't mean to imply such.

For sure, our great community here has so many favorites!

There's 5 dozen I've yet to try. Sonax, Max Wax, Dodo, Son1c, etc, one day I'll get there!
 
Sicktred08fsi said:
A "topper" product is good when having to release the car without proper cure time to protect. I also use it when doing check ups om my coating customers cars. I prefer to use same brand as coating.
Click to expand...

That can't be helping the coating curing process... surely?
 
JMP said:
So Bob.....I bought PBL coating with synergy wax...do not need the wax I guess? Your thoughts please....
Click to expand...
You have both?!?! :wow:

I need to get this book right away:




Bob
 
Bob: just play these numbers. 4,8,15,16,23 and 42.

Sent via Tapatalk.
 

I'm not going to get into the coating shouldn't need toppers deal. Some guys do it some don't. to each their own.


I have used:
Kamikaze Overcoat, CarPro Reload, CarPro Hydro2, FK425, DG Aquawax, and many others. My favorites are Kamikaze Overcoat, CarPro Reload, CarPro Hydro2. All do to the fact that they enhance the coating properties that I am looking for.

 
why not just use the Pinnacle coating booster ? it is made for topping coatings.
 
With all that being said...if your going to put anything on it I would use the Reload. It's made by the same manufacturer and I believe designed to go on top of CQuartz, not 100% sure on that though.
 
FUNX725 said:
That's short-changing a Customer, IMHO.


Bob
Click to expand...

No, its not. This is especially important here in wintery areas due to salt and snow. Also, some clients can only afford to have their car down for a day, especially busy moms.

davey g-force said:
That can't be helping the coating curing process... surely?
Click to expand...

It helps protect against harsh chemicals that the coating could see in tbe 1st week. We cannot predict the weather or what the customer may drive through. Call it a sacrificial layer.

On that note, I am a firm believer of using a topper specifically designed for that brand. Theres a word that escapes me that applies to this.

I use mostly CarPro coatings, so they are only topped with Reload. I have Topper from C.A.R Products that I used for Bulletproof jobs.
 
Sicktred08fsi said:
No, its not. This is especially important here in wintery areas due to salt and snow. Also, some clients can only afford to have their car down for a day, especially busy moms.
Click to expand...
•IMHO:
-Yes it is!!
-Coatings, and their total cure-times, takes commitment.

Plain and simple:
-"Don't do the Coatings...if They can't do the Time!"


Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
•IMHO:
-Yes it is!!
-Coatings, and their total cure-times, takes commitment.

Plain and simple:
-"Don't do the Coatings...if They can't do the Time!"


Bob
Click to expand...

it's a pretty common situation that due to the curing variables, CQ users often put Reload on top of a fresh installation and Opti-Coat users use Opti-Seal. coatings have an initial cure, then continue to get harder and harder as time advances. there are varying degrees of vulnerability during that span.

coatings aren't at their strongest in a day or even a few - it takes weeks - so unless:

1. the customer is ok with leaving the car for weeks to assure complete curing and
2. the detailer can accommodate such a request
and/or
3. even wants to take on the liability of having that car sit around for several weeks

it makes sense to apply an appropriate, compatible sacrificial barrier to help prevent certain things that can occur to a freshly installed coating job. water spotting is a common one.

as far as the OP's question, i leave the paint coatings alone after maintenance washes, once the coatings are fully cured. in fact, every once in a while i'll pre-treat with a Power Clean solution and wash with Reset to get the coatings clean so they can act like they are designed. imo the best of both worlds is Gloss-Coat because it's ridiculously slick and glossy. once you use Gloss-Coat, you'll understand why you'll never want to put anything on top again.
 
builthatch said:
imo the best of both worlds is Gloss-Coat because it's ridiculously slick and glossy. once you use Gloss-Coat, you'll understand why you'll never want to put anything on top again.
Click to expand...

That's interesting since one of the big selling points of Gloss-Coat is that it was designed to be able to be topped (unlike OCPro or OC2.0). BTW I love Gloss Coat and probably would say I'm a little happier when applying it to customer's cars in comparison to the more expensive Pro version. It is an awesome product!
 
FUNX725 said:
•IMHO:
-Yes it is!!
-Coatings, and their total cure-times, takes commitment.

Plain and simple:
-"Don't do the Coatings...if They can't do the Time!"


Bob
Click to expand...

Read below....
And also, are you telling me you would pass up a coating job because the customer cannot leave the car for more than a day?

builthatch said:
it's a pretty common situation that due to the curing variables, CQ users often put Reload on top of a fresh installation and Opti-Coat users use Opti-Seal. coatings have an initial cure, then continue to get harder and harder as time advances. there are varying degrees of vulnerability during that span.

coatings aren't at their strongest in a day or even a few - it takes weeks - so unless:

1. the customer is ok with leaving the car for weeks to assure complete curing and
2. the detailer can accommodate such a request
and/or
3. even wants to take on the liability of having that car sit around for several weeks

it makes sense to apply an appropriate, compatible sacrificial barrier to help prevent certain things that can occur to a freshly installed coating job. water spotting is a common one.

as far as the OP's question, i leave the paint coatings alone after maintenance washes, once the coatings are fully cured. in fact, every once in a while i'll pre-treat with a Power Clean solution and wash with Reset to get the coatings clean so they can act like they are designed. imo the best of both worlds is Gloss-Coat because it's ridiculously slick and glossy. once you use Gloss-Coat, you'll understand why you'll never want to put anything on top again.
Click to expand...
 
jarred767 said:
That's interesting since one of the big selling points of Gloss-Coat is that it was designed to be able to be topped (unlike OCPro or OC2.0). BTW I love Gloss Coat and probably would say I'm a little happier when applying it to customer's cars in comparison to the more expensive Pro version. It is an awesome product!
Click to expand...

yeah it's really sweet. i haven't gotten clarification on if they meant topped, layered or both. i can imagine why for both ideas because this thread is proof that people like to apply products on top even if they don't need to. and they also like to layer. so, the customer gets what they want and the manufacturer can sell more consumables!

the hot ticket is Gloss-Coat on top of Pro, but within the Pro curing window, obv. it's like Opti-Seal topped Pro but obviously way more durable as a battery, since Opti-Seal is temporary on top of Pro, curing window or not. Dr. G says that is basically what Opti-Coat+ is.

opti-coat_pro_plus_paint_protection.png
 
TroyScherer said:
I'm not going to get into the coating shouldn't need toppers deal. Some guys do it some don't. to each their own.


I have used:
Kamikaze Overcoat, CarPro Reload, CarPro Hydro2, FK425, DG Aquawax, and many others. My favorites are Kamikaze Overcoat, CarPro Reload, CarPro Hydro2. All do to the fact that they enhance the coating properties that I am looking for.
Click to expand...

How have you found Kamikaze Overcoat? I just ordered some to use on top of Modesta BC-05.

How long has the durability been? What coating have you used it over?
 
ScionTC1283 said:
In your opinion what is the best topper for a coating (I have Cquartz on one car and Modesta BC-05 on another)?

The toppers I currently own are Shine Supply Wet Detailer, Kamikaze Overcoat, and Carpro Reload.

My goal is to protect the coating with a sacrificial layer that has similar characteristics to the coating(dirt release, resistance to waterspots, scratch resistance, etc.).

Also, have any of you ever tried putting Blackfire Wet Diamond (or a similar sealant) over a coating as a sacrificial barrier? BFWD is one of the slickest surfaces I have ever encountered, in my opinion even slicker than Modesta.
Click to expand...

Both of these coatings you have, have their own so called toppers, so I would stick with those and use those.

HUMP
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top