FUNX650
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- Dec 1, 2010
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Best Topper for A Coating
- Thread starter ScionTC1283
- Start date
rops:^^^
jarred767
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- Jun 30, 2014
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the hot ticket is Gloss-Coat on top of Pro, but within the Pro curing window, obv. it's like Opti-Seal topped Pro but obviously way more durable as a battery, since Opti-Seal is temporary on top of Pro, curing window or not. Dr. G says that is basically what Opti-Coat+ is.
First I've heard of this... interesting... more research is needed on my part...
TroyScherer
Active member
- Sep 19, 2009
- 1,926
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The initial water reaction is great; just like the videos. But in this harsh winter weather with all the grit and salt the Overcoat is taking a beating. (just like it is designed to do) But know 1-1.5 months later it could be reapplied IMO. The water reaction looks like just my CQUK is on the car.
I am using Overcoat on top of CQUK, PBL ASC, OC Pro. I don't know if it matters what you are using it over. It is only temporary and will die off faster in harsh conditions.
CQUK: Daily driven and takes a beating in winter.
PBL ASC: Daily driver and I only did a small test spot but is looking the same as CQUK.
OC Pro: Sits outside 24/7 and I haven't touched it in 2+ months due to not needing it.
davey g-force
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- Aug 18, 2009
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swanicyouth
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- Mar 3, 2011
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As I see it - this is the problem with enthusiasts and coatings. The enthusiast knows that coating has lost *something*, but also knows to re-coat it is a huge PIA.
Therefore, they want *something* to rejuvenate their partially degraded coating.
There also is the noob school of thought that thinks - the more products on the paint - the better. So, know you want an LSP to protect your coating. However, no evidence really exists that this is the case.
I don't see any point in "topping" a coating with anything but a QD - unless your bored and looking for something to do.
To me, it just makes much more sense to use a single products that is easy to re-apply and readily renewable on the paint.
Therefore, they want *something* to rejuvenate their partially degraded coating.
There also is the noob school of thought that thinks - the more products on the paint - the better. So, know you want an LSP to protect your coating. However, no evidence really exists that this is the case.
I don't see any point in "topping" a coating with anything but a QD - unless your bored and looking for something to do.
To me, it just makes much more sense to use a single products that is easy to re-apply and readily renewable on the paint.
AeroCleanse
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- Nov 17, 2008
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If you have Modesta, then M-1 Shot would be your best choice.
builthatch
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- May 25, 2008
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coatings can be impacted negatively if they are loaded up with stuff that sticks to it which often times comes from people going over and over the car with quick detailers, washes, spray waxes, sealants, etc. that's why i was recommending to keep it free of "toppers" and deep clean it every once in a while with Power Clean and Reset.
then you have the fact that the last gen of coatings was not as slick as they are now, so because of that, people want to put something on it so it would feel better, like Chris said earlier in this thread.
i think this forum has proven this over and over again. people like to do stuff just to do stuff - they don't care if it's a waste of anything, they want to do it for whatever reason. that's up to them, of course, but i'm just confirming what you are thinking.
you mean vs. using a coating?
davey g-force
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- Aug 18, 2009
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builthatch
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- May 25, 2008
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IR lamps are apparently a popular solution for some CQ installers. not everyone has IR equipment, so using Reload is a common remedy for CQ cure time spot prevention when you don't have such equipment. i don't see using a companion wowa sealant during cure time as cutting corners or compromising anything or anyone, it's just a different way to get to a similar destination.
swanicyouth
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- Mar 3, 2011
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I don't understand why you need to clean a coated car with some APC like Power Clean or some special aggressive soap like Reset? I thought the point of these things was nothing sticks to them and they are so easy to clean???
How come the most mildest car wash soap doesn't due?? If the paint/coating was "contaminated" - wouldn't the solution just be to clay it?
This is why I'm not too crazy about coatings for an enthusiast like me. To many inconsistent results out there with coatings that don't bead, coatings that won't bead, coatings that need special soap or toppers to keep them beading, and dubious claims about mar/scratch resistance that don't pan out.
It just seems too complicated for questionable benefits to me. Yes I know people just do stuff to do it - and that's great. But my opinion is, I couldn't see topping a coating with a wax or some silica sealant - I would just use that wax or sealant on my paint initially and call it a day.
Coatings are probably a great idea for professional detailers or someone who can't detail their car for longs periods of time. But for me, I'm all about keeping stuff easy and simple and not dealing with coating headaches.
conman1395
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- Nov 23, 2013
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If I get tar or bugs on my car and have to use a heavy APC or Tarminator to remove it, I know I will be degrading or removing my wax/sealant. A coating is (should be at least) resistant to these product and additionally will make cleaning these contaminants easier. That's a plus to me.
I agree with a lot of what you have said lately regarding coatings. Almost everything actually. I'm on my phone so I'm not going to go search the post, but you did say at one time you don't think coatings are did the average Geek and is more suitable for the Joe who does not want to wax their car often.
It is pretty easy to wash, clay, and even lightly polish and finally wax every 4 or so months like you said. In my case I really want something that will last at least a year in college and not weak or be removed in touchless washes or coin-ops with their strong soap. I don't have a garage or the time to do the normal processes I enjoy. As much as I love waxing and prefer it, I have more important things that take up my time during school.
Hope I didn't screw this post up using my phone....
builthatch
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- May 25, 2008
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CQ or Opti-Coat type coatings make it so less sticks to them over a longer period of time vs. something less permanent, less appreciable or plain ol' clear coat. it's not a force field and as mentioned, people are tempted to add stuff to it when in actuality, you can just clean it with a mild soap and decon it every once in a while completely with Power Clean (Opti-Coat) OR Reset (CQ), i just choose to use both with Opti-Coat for a few reasons that i can share if anyone cares.
in my experiences, yes, a neutral mild soap is a fine choice. so is Power Clean or Reset. using the harsher example won't hurt anything but there is no need to use them more than required. but over time, no matter what coating, esp. if you drive a lot or keep the car outside 24/7, things will stick so you need to deep clean it here and there. if you keep adding crap on top to make it slicker or whatever, or use rinseless washes over and over or waterless, etc., i find the need to deep clean comes quicker. claying is not necessary.
it's not hard. just follow the prescribed process by the manufacturer. someone can chime in about CQ if they like - i don't have personal experience with it, but using Gloss-Coat is STUPID simple. install it properly, wash with mild soap, don't put stuff on top for no reason. deep clean every few months if it seems like things are sticking more than they should or water isn't running off the same as it was prior. i have to admit that i've only found Opti-Coat and 2.0 to need periodic deep cleaning. the jury on the deep cleaning point is still out for me with Gloss-Coat since it's on a garaged vehicle and seems too slick to ever change behavior within its normal useful life. someday i will find out.
again, no need to top it unless you just installed it and you need to leave it outside inside the curing window. wax or sealant won't provide the protection of a good coating. not even close.
easy is coating the car. i have two coated cars, one that sits outside 24/7...and i'm never going back. it stays looking better longer and the paint is protected better overall. a huge point of coatings is that the sacrificial barrier is way bigger than with wax or sealant.
i have experience with both ends of the spectrum. your way (wax or sealant every few months) and the coating way. i suggest if you want the best insight, just get a tube of Gloss-Coat, follow the directions and see for yourself. if someone here has used Gloss-Coat as per the directions and still feels non-coating LSP is a better choice, please speak up
Odisious
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- Jan 11, 2015
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I used the DPPC. The look was awesome, and I left it at that. Then I read about others with coatings who say the beading and sheeting are terrible. I went out for the 3rd wash on the coating...I used Dura Gloss soap, and noticed the same. Beading and sheeting were horrible and I'm talking like, embarrassingly bad...HOWEVER, the car cleans unbelievably easy. I've never experienced anything like it. I could dangle toilet paper by the car and let the wind blow it into the paint and I would take tar off of the side of the car as if I were scrubbing. I really think that beading and sheeting are overrated because Turtle Wax ICE back in the day gave me the best beading and sheeting I had ever seen, but it didn't perform at keeping the car clean, and rinsed away after one rain shower. Beading and sheeting are cool to see and experience, but I'll take cleanability and shine over beading and sheeting any day and that's what the coating gave me. I save so much time in washing and drying, and I don't have to feel bad if I don't get a chance to seal/wax/ or QD.
I like using BFCS and/or WGDGLS as a QD when I can because they were created during the inception of Palm Beach's coatings and they behave like coatings, just not close to the durability. I find that they don't have a negatively affect of over layering at all.
All of the above to say, I don't detail for a living, just a hobby, and having switched to a coating, I'm never going to look back. The beading and sheeting are so wrong that it's right!
builthatch
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- May 25, 2008
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Odisious
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- Jan 11, 2015
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ok...I'll give you Coke on a LC orange pad, don't worry, it won't eat your coating!
AutowerxDetailing
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- Apr 10, 2012
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The reason for this is because with the latest formulation of CQuartz Finest (v6) we're not supposed to top it with Reload for 3 days post install. So Reload can no longer be used as a means to "protect" the coating while it's curing. IR curing lamps also harden the coating more for better scratch/swirl resistance.
builthatch
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- May 25, 2008
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if you don't have an IR lamp setup and can't use Reload with the new formulation, what is the solution to prevent spotting during the cure phase if the car is released into the wild?
or is it not prone to spotting anymore during the cure phase, hence, the new formula? just curious.
the question might arise also re: consumer CQ stuff and using Reload. similarly, as i mentioned, i'm curious how susceptible Gloss-Coat is to initial cure spotting since it's so vastly different in many behaviors and feel vs. 2.0 and Pro.
AutowerxDetailing
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- Apr 10, 2012
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I'm not sure about if it is much less susceptible to water spots during the cure window. I believe all coatings have issues with water spots while they are still cross linking because the film is still quite permeable at that point.
Most of the pro coating installers that I know that are offering CQF are using IR curing lights, especially since the new version was released.
I know that the consumer versions of CQ can be layered with Reload within an hour after the coating installation. CQUK is recommended to use Reload an hour after installing and is even sold as a kit with Reload included.
builthatch
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- May 25, 2008
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yeah, it's been a major beef across the board with Opti-Coat and CQF but the sealant thing seemed like a nice stop gap. but like you said, if you have IR, it's a moot point. i think every time i've seen IR lights in installation pics, it's been a CQF installer. there are prolly tons of others doing it for tons of other coatings, but i've particularly noticed the CQF/IR link.
yep, that's what i've always seen. i didn't know if that changed too like the Pro did re: not being able to use Reload right away. glad that's still in play since it's not reasonable to expect consumers to have IR (naturally).
thanks dude.
ScionTC1283
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- May 4, 2011
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- #60
How does Overcoat compare to Reload?